tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post4603961079454416513..comments2024-03-21T22:00:15.368-07:00Comments on Communing With Fabric: Shoulder Talkshamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06070023218199309005noreply@blogger.comBlogger23125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-57130080223301722402013-09-04T18:54:40.697-07:002013-09-04T18:54:40.697-07:00My shoulders really are narrow - even at the small...My shoulders really are narrow - even at the smaller sizes I chop off 1-2" from Vogue sleeves. But I nearly always do it at the pattern level. But then, since I also nearly always need an adjustment for sloping shoulders and one for forward shoulders, I think it's easier to do everything at once at the pattern level. Otherwise, your method sounds like a wonderfully easy one!<br /><br />I also have taken to nearly always cutting the sleeves after the bodice is sewn together. I almost never add to the sleeve cap to take care of the space that was removed from the shoulder, but that's because of the sloping shoulder adjustments, combined with the fact that I hate (yes hate) puckers on the sleeve.<br /><br />Awesome tutorial, as always!<br />Jillybejoyfulhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11010866113928621691noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-42733276135379029662013-09-04T17:52:42.612-07:002013-09-04T17:52:42.612-07:00WOW! Such wonderful advice. Thanks for all the t...WOW! Such wonderful advice. Thanks for all the tips. Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03234366085172090247noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-4944621770818593992013-09-04T17:52:30.059-07:002013-09-04T17:52:30.059-07:00WOW! Such wonderful advice. Thanks for all the t...WOW! Such wonderful advice. Thanks for all the tips. Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03234366085172090247noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-26383863740299882402013-09-03T12:58:28.600-07:002013-09-03T12:58:28.600-07:00squeeeeeeeeee!!!
And thanks for making me feel no...squeeeeeeeeee!!!<br /><br />And thanks for making me feel normal. I always have to chop shoulders down only then sometimes the sleeve fits too tightly. I love your idea of waiting to cut the sleeve until you get to this part in the sewing. I also like the idea of how you fit the shoulders using the actual garment. I think it would be less intimidating to cut the actual fabric then to try to draw the correct pattern lines.<br /><br />I'm going to try this!<br /><br />A big, big heartfelt thank you!MaryMary86https://www.blogger.com/profile/04934836649119869915noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-7775432882453611882013-09-03T08:16:34.635-07:002013-09-03T08:16:34.635-07:00Wow, you are so generous with your instructions. ...Wow, you are so generous with your instructions. This is so valuable. Having never had any formal sewing education I truly need this kind of thing so a huge thank you for such detailed and easily understood instructions!<br /><br />And, you are the zipper queen!Gayle Ortizhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16942980115328024727noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-89243499933362944432013-09-02T18:26:13.939-07:002013-09-02T18:26:13.939-07:00I use your alteration for myself, my small-boned d...I use your alteration for myself, my small-boned daughter and many clients. It works and is so simple and logical. My personal adjustment is 1/2 to 1 inch for big 4 patterns and none in StyleArk patterns. Wish someone in the US would carry these wonderful patterns to cut the heavy shipping costs. I just love their current styles and fit!<br /><br />Karensewingkmhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11747001697655177474noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-36401134271979093082013-09-02T16:08:45.728-07:002013-09-02T16:08:45.728-07:00Thanks for sharing this-I had no idea. I need to m...Thanks for sharing this-I had no idea. I need to make narrow shoulder adjustments for Carl (he is tall with narrower shoulder than regular pattern companies envisage). I either cut out an L from the shoulder centre to below the underarm and shift that piece inward, or use a rotary to cut out the shirt front/back from the hem to the underarm then place my finger on the underarm point and rotate the pattern anti-clockwise till the shoulder point is where his natural shoulder point should be and then cut. Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-53104029752919248492013-09-02T15:55:20.116-07:002013-09-02T15:55:20.116-07:00I was taught this same technique for narrow should...I was taught this same technique for narrow shoulder adjustments. It works quite well! The Hojnackeshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11831225232147068760noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-7551209678476301722013-09-02T15:27:13.919-07:002013-09-02T15:27:13.919-07:00Thank you Shams. I'm happy to know that whacki...Thank you Shams. I'm happy to know that whacking a half moon shape out of my armhole is an accepted and workable method since I always feel like I am committing some kind of sewing sacrilege whenever I've done it. BTW, I didn't get to comment but your jacket is wonderful and I know you'll wear it with great style and panache!Theresahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09574936988046982209noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-49563372169230034742013-09-02T15:18:42.820-07:002013-09-02T15:18:42.820-07:00Your alteration makes perfect sense! I wondered ab...Your alteration makes perfect sense! I wondered about it, too, so thanks for posting this. I do an extra step, similar to what andib described, to re-shape my sleeve. I need to add back to the sleeve what I took away from the shoulder, plus a forward shoulder adjustment. By the time I have done all that, I walk the seams one more time to make sure the sleeve seam is about an inch longer than in the armscye seam.a little sewinghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18086285440873869055noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-61104830687407870192013-09-02T15:10:50.262-07:002013-09-02T15:10:50.262-07:00I like this method very much and will try it for s...I like this method very much and will try it for sure. I have both narrow and sloped shoulders. I find Vogue in particular are very wide in the shoulders.<br />Shams, thank you very much for checking out my jacket and leaving a comment. I'm very flattered that you liked it. Happy sewing!<br />DianaDianahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-33979159663897236242013-09-02T15:10:35.734-07:002013-09-02T15:10:35.734-07:00I like this method very much and will try it for s...I like this method very much and will try it for sure. I have both narrow and sloped shoulders. I find Vogue in particular are very wide in the shoulders.<br />Shams, thank you very much for checking out my jacket and leaving a comment. I'm very flattered that you liked it. Happy sewing!<br />DianaDianahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-53093119528766935212013-09-02T15:09:43.712-07:002013-09-02T15:09:43.712-07:00I do a pivot and slide. Mark how much you need to ...I do a pivot and slide. Mark how much you need to shorten the shoulder seam at the seam line. Using a copy of the armscye and some of the shoulder seam line it up at the underarm and pivot and slide the top of the armscye copy to the new shorter shoulder seam. Trace the new line and mark notches. debbiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04879013275518538838noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-57496314052151228632013-09-02T13:47:36.376-07:002013-09-02T13:47:36.376-07:00I would tissue fit the shoulder width first and if...I would tissue fit the shoulder width first and if too wide, cut the whole armhole area out and move inwards the 1" or whatever is needed. Then would have to taper out the side seam. Or add to the side seam and add the same to the sleeve underarm. I like your method.Vickihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01529416439720810403noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-75727391610841363522013-09-02T13:45:17.412-07:002013-09-02T13:45:17.412-07:00I do exactly what you do except I just whack the s...I do exactly what you do except I just whack the sleeve in anyway. I make it up to the ready to put the sleeve in bit, try it on, chop a bit of the shoulder line so it sits closer to the edge of my shoulder, then sew the sleeve in. I have never had a problem fitting in the sleeve with the 1 or 2cm I chop off the edge. I probably don't go down as far as you either. Not quite to the notches. RebeccaHowardhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09929389779938934748noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-84093012571362183262013-09-02T12:52:45.426-07:002013-09-02T12:52:45.426-07:00Shoulder pads!Shoulder pads!Wendyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01782008169878168602noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-37143645663817842592013-09-02T11:47:34.987-07:002013-09-02T11:47:34.987-07:00Thank you! I have just started a project to learn ...Thank you! I have just started a project to learn to fit myself better and this was just the info I needed! Now to learn how to fit jeans like yours. The new Vogue pattern magazine has really got me thinking about denim. Will you be making new jeans for the new figure?pegsewerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04368008409658563613noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-67556221477519620942013-09-02T11:37:01.233-07:002013-09-02T11:37:01.233-07:00My alteration is embarrassingly simple. As an A c...My alteration is embarrassingly simple. As an A cup, my bust measures to a 34, size 12. But, my upper chest is as wide as a big 4 size 14 while my back width is more like a size 10. <br /><br />I cut a 12, but place the CB of the pattern a bit inside the fabric fold to trim off 1/2". If the upper chest is too tight, I do a 1/2" pivot and slide between the shoulder point and the armhole. <br /><br />Sleeve caps don't need adjustment because I make no changes to the curve or length of the armhole. The only time I change sleeves is for extra arm girth. I have muscular legs and arms (and a normal amount of overlying fat) so I do that often.badmomgoodmomhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11569728075698885020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-79676409593263812892013-09-02T11:19:18.515-07:002013-09-02T11:19:18.515-07:00I agree about sharing alterations/fit advice. I, ...I agree about sharing alterations/fit advice. I, too, can 'fit' me but I am often perplexed on how to fit someone else who has a different shape than I do. I struggle with 'how-to' advice when asked because I always think I shouldn't be passing along my bad habits to new sewists. However, I probably developed those 'bad habits' because I wouldn't take the time to learn the correct or acceptable method that my Home Ec teacher so valiantly tried to teach me.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-81622082781633424332013-09-02T11:18:09.476-07:002013-09-02T11:18:09.476-07:00I do roughly the same thing ...but when I get to c...I do roughly the same thing ...but when I get to cutting my sleeve, I place the "moon" piece from the bodice at the top of the sleeve, matching the Shoulder seam to the dot/notch of the sleeve, and then I cut, using the sliver to add to the sleeve cap height and width. I usually take out 2" of shoulder width, so I need to add it back to the sleeve. Hope that is clear as mud!andibhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07209609669553104025noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-23174270936025698922013-09-02T11:11:44.715-07:002013-09-02T11:11:44.715-07:00Thank you for this discussion. Your way of workin...Thank you for this discussion. Your way of working on fit is so reasonable and sensible. Well written post too. Back when you were sewing in the larger size range, it occurred to me that you were starting with a size or two too large. I prefer to start with a size that fits me better in my neck and shoulder area and then just add extra tissue until it fits all the bigger bits..<br /> Susyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16960730789437470063noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-50086319070105613152013-09-02T09:29:58.466-07:002013-09-02T09:29:58.466-07:00That alteration sounds so reasonable to me. I thi...That alteration sounds so reasonable to me. I think many times sewers (and instructors) try to make alterations harder (or more mystical) than they really need to be.Linda Thttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08345674465845908156noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4920875739028519515.post-42516825234415266782013-09-02T09:18:30.202-07:002013-09-02T09:18:30.202-07:00I use your method - and I generally always have to...I use your method - and I generally always have to shorten the shoulders on the patterns. I sew larger size patterns and my shoulders are a smaller size than the rest of me, I guess. Possibly I could eliminate fitting annoyances by losing weight. I'll give it some serious thought! Claire R.https://www.blogger.com/profile/09937988030390654215noreply@blogger.com