Monday, July 11, 2011

Burda 2730 - Anna Sui Silk Chiffon Blouse

So blustery! More pics

It's funny how one can absorb fashion trends by osmosis. Sheer fabrics have been on the runways for some time now, and, for some time now, without thinking about it, I have been collecting them, but not sewing them up. I'm not sure what was holding me back, but I finally broke through the barrier.

I don't know when this Burda pattern was published, but it's perfect for chiffon fabrics and it's very on trend. It's too bad it's out of print, but I found it on ebay for a couple of bucks.

Materials:

  • Silk Lurex Tie-Dyed Crinkled Chiffon Panel by Anna Sui 48" Wide, 98% silk, 2% lurex (890928) from FabricMart. I used three panels, one for the back, and one each for the left and the right fronts. I needed two for the front so I could match the design at CF. It almost looks as if these panels were intended to be scarf blanks, but I'm not sure how Anna Sui used them. I would have preferred the fabric without the lurex threads, but oh well.
  • 3 pair of black snaps.
  • 3 buttons from Fabrix.
  • Black silk organza to use as interfacing for the collar.

Construction Notes:

  • The pattern comes with 3 sizes in the envelope: S (8/10), M (12/14) and L (16/18). I made the large, using view A with the collar and button front. View B is a button-less, collar-less cardigan with sleeves.

  • I made no alterations. I decided I didn't mind if the hem is uneven, so I did not bother with an FBA.

  • This is very easy to sew, though I didn't follow the instructions, exactly. I used French seams on the shoulders. I hemmed all edges and then sewed the side seams - it's just much easier that way. If you use the pattern instructions, you will have exposed seam allowances.

  • I didn't want to sew buttonholes in the silk chiffon, so I used three snaps and then sewed the buttons on top of each snap - they are purely decorative.

  • When I was cutting out the collar, I fussy cut one layer on the black part of the fabric and the other layer on the white "stripe". After constructing the collar, I decided I liked the black collar better, so the white stripe version ended up as the undercollar. You can see it here:

    The stripe ended up as the under collar. You can really see the lurex threads here.

    The solid ended up as the upper collar.

I was planning to wear this top for my birthday outing, and I put it on, and took some photos. It was so foggy, cold and windy, that I thought the photo shoot was a failure. But when I uploaded them this evening, they were better than I had thought. So I am using the pics from that shoot, even though it was blustery. But isn't all that floaty movement the reason that chiffon is fun? :)

I ended up changing my outfit to a warmer one for my outing.

I love this top. It is so billowy and fun to wear. I have already cut out a second one, using another silk chiffon border print. I am changing the front on that version, but this is a great pattern and I will use it again and again.

I am now ready for a pool party!

More Pics

I tried changing locations, but it was just as windy.

It's a bit hard to see, but I carefully matched the pattern on the front. It's also hard to see the three buttons/snaps.

Back. You can see the door's window through the top. It was breezy when I took these hangar pics too.

StyleArc - The Alexi Harem Pant

More pics

I am a fan of the harem-style pant. I know this style does not suit everyone, but these pants with fullness at the hip gives my unbalanced figure some balance. When I made a recent order from StyleArc, I had to toss the Alexi pant into the cart.

Materials:

  • "Trendy rayon challis" from FabricMart (812569). This black and white print, 91% rayon, 9% spandex, has a linen-like texture but when washed became very limp and drapey. Perfect for these pants. When you tie the ties, the wrong side of the fabric will show.
  • Waistband elastic.

Construction Notes:

  • I made a size 10. I cut it out without any alterations.
  • The pockets tie. The instructions say to "double neaten the rabbit ears." Or something along those lines. I wasn't sure what they meant, but this is the time when you'd want to use a rolled edge on the "rabbit ears" which are the ties. I don't have the rolled edge plate for my serger, so I used the regular overlock stitch, but I went over it twice to make it a little more substantial.
  • I did not shorten the pant legs and the length was perfect. So, if you are taller than 5'5", you will probably want to lengthen these. At first I was concerned that the ankle was a bit too pegged, but they've grown on me.
  • Before the pants were completed, I was not sure I liked the ties on the pockets. I tried tucking the ties into the pocket and I liked that look very much. After the pants were finished, I decided I did like the ties, so I took photos with them both ways.

That's it. These pants were very easy and they came together quickly. These will be perfect if I ever find myself in some hot weather. The last few days have been cold, foggy, windy. The weather has been in the 50s, so these summery clothes don't feel very relevant. :)

More Pics

Here the ties are tucked into the pockets, creating a nice drape. I didn't realize my rumpled t-shirt would be quite so obvious in the pics. Ahem. ;)

Here the pockets are tied. Again, sorry for the rumpled pics.

Close up of tied pocket. Wrong side of fabric will show.

The necklace my girls bought me for my birthday. All three of us picked it out. :)

Sunday, July 10, 2011

Post Birthday Reflections

I want to thank all of you for your wonderful birthday wishes! I was really touched by all the comments here, and on Facebook, wishing me well.

The day was great! My daughters planned to take me out for the day. They wanted to treat me to lunch and to a gift of my own choosing. We headed for the east bay, first to the Stone Mountain & Daughter fabric store and then to my favorite shopping area in Berkeley, called Fourth Street. I hadn't been to Fourth Street in many years, but at the Bryn Walker store I managed to find a beautiful pewter necklace that the girls bought for me, as well as another necklace and bracelet I bought myself. At the Japanese import store I found a couple pieces of Japanese fabric, as well as a gorgeous scarf. And, of course, there was a bit more stash acquisition at Stone Mountain. (I think I must be part Ferengi.)

We also had fun at the Bare Escentuals store and later, at home, we had a marathon makeup session.

It was much better than last year when both kids forgot my birthday. <ahem> :)

We had a heat wave last week, so I planned to wear my silk organza top. I put it on and tried to take some photos, but it was freezing cold, foggy and windy, so I changed to another outfit. I need to try again to get some photos before I can post that top. I also have another pair of StyleArc pants almost finished, so look for that post too.

Meanwhile, let me leave you with some eye candy I recently discovered. This fiber artist has created some truly wonderful designs that you can see in person in New York, Paris, and Sao Paolo: Yasmine Studio. Make sure you look at all three of her collections! I want to be her when I grow up. :)

Saturday, July 9, 2011

July 9th!

Happy Birthday to me,
I'm now fifty-three!
Or maybe fifty-two,
I'm forgetful too!

(Seriously, I can't remember.)

Thursday, July 7, 2011

Pajama Bottoms Galore!

I know, I know. PJ bottoms are boring. So how about SIX pair of pj bottoms? Does that make it a bit less boring? No? Oh well. :)

I decided I need a pair of new PJ bottoms for my trip to Pennsylvania in April, so I made a pair using a fabric I'd bought on sale at Eddie's Quilting Bee in Sunnyvale. When I was staying with Peggy, I just loved her African print PJ bottoms, so I picked up a couple African prints at JoMars in Philadelphia. Then I bought a paisley flannel, also at JoMars. I also made a pair out of a pebbled silk from FabricMart. And then I had a plaid light blue flannel lying around from Fabrix -- might as well sew that up too.

I forced myself to stop at six pair - I was getting a bit obsessive. Most of these use the Louise Cutting One Seam pant pattern. It may be the last time I use this particular pattern because she has come out with a modified One Seam pant that is a bit more fitted. I'll have to try that one — but it may supplant this pattern as my go-to PJs. The black flannel print was too narrow for the one seam pattern, so for those I used Burda 7400, without the band at the hem.

So, here's the gallery!

Most Gender Neutral Most Luxe
Best Matched Print Most Likely to Disintegrate
Most Snuggly Most Funka-delic

Which reminds me. I think this is the first time I've owned a pair of silk PJ bottoms. How do you guys store yours? Do you hang or fold?

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Fabric Goodness - Enabler Alert!

Thanks for all your kind comments on my last couple posts. In the comments here, on SG, and on PR, there was some serious coveting of the fabric I had used in my Teagarden T. I bought the lightweight rayon/lycra from Emma One Sock several weeks ago and she no longer has any in stock. But one of my readers managed to find what looks like the same fabric at Mood.

Thanks, Carol in Denver, for letting me know about it!

When I went to their site to nose around, I found two other fabrics that seem to be a similar print, but in different color ways. (I'm not saying they are identical to the original fabric, but they seem very similar. Also note that the first fabric may not be identical to mine, but it sure seems similar.)

Clicking each fabric takes you to the corresponding page on the Mood Fabrics website. As usual, I have no affiliation.

FR259083


FR25736C


FR29845C

Vogue 8499 - Brussels Washer Linen Pants

A few months ago I bought three coordinating pieces of Brussels Washer Linen from Dana Marie Design. Brussels washer linen, made by Kaufman, is a 55% linen, 45% rayon blend. I had heard good reports of this fabric, which wrinkles less than a 100% linen. I decided to use the natural-colored piece for a pair of pants that I had made before: Vogue 8499, one of Marcy Tilton's pants.

I've been wearing the first pair a lot lately, and the pattern screams summer to me. That first pair, made with a floaty, drapey Taslan fabric, was great in this design. If you recall, the pattern is quite oversized and I went down many sizes, making a size 6 - it was perfect in the Taslan.

The first pair I made in March, 2010

This pattern is not perfect in the linen/rayon blend, at least not in the size 6. It's too stiff, which I should have realized up front. As a result of the stiff fabric, these pants are less flattering. The pattern is great, but it needs a fabric with more flow and drape, or I need to remove more fullness.

I will still wear these, but any ideas of what to do with the other two pieces of Brussels Washer linen? :) I do like its softer wrinkles, it's just beefier than I expected.

Alterations and Modifications

The only change I made to this pair was to lengthen them about 3/4" - the last pair seemed a tad short. If I were to make these again out of a similar fabric, I would remove additional fullness through the back hip.

This is the third garment (out of seven) that I made this last weekend. Stay tuned for more reviews. :)

Detail of topstitched knee darts and front seam