Vogue 9162 - A Dress Bathrobe

More pics

Let's talk for a moment about bathrobes.

It seems that the bathrobes of the world fall into two styles. Style #1 (by far the most common design) is the infamous wrap robe. It's ubiquitous.

Style #1

It's a great style if you are a women with a waist (and modest boobage), or have a fairly straight up-and-down figure, such as that of a trim man, or a child.

But what if it doesn't suit your shape? What if you don't have a nicely defined waist, or you have a large bust, or both, and it requires constant fiddling to stay closed, resulting in a completely unsatisfying garment? And what if it looks awful on you, making you feel like a complete schlumpadinka (ie. frump) for the short duration that you endure it?

Fresh out of the shower. It might appear to be securely cinched, but I assure you, the slightest movement and all is revealed. Not the sort of "oh la la" I am going for.

Style #2 is the "housecoat" sort of robe. The type of robe that Marie Barrone (Everybody Loves Raymond), or maybe your grandmother, wears. Generally they are fairly shapeless, zipped to the neck, and pretty much shroud the body with little-to-no fit. Functional, yes, though some might say that wearing one is tantamount to declaring that you have "given up." As practical as this style of robe may be, I don't think you can say that it makes you feel pretty, or sexy, while wearing it.

Style #2

So, what if you want something else? Something that is cute, covers you, makes you feel pretty/sexy/glamorous, but doesn't rely on unfeasible dynamics in order to stay closed? Unless I have missed something, the world of RTW has overlooked this need. They are myopic in their definition of the bathrobe. Thus, we have a "bathrobe gap."

A sorry state of affairs, indeed.

I've been thinking about what type of garment would satisfy my robing needs. After much thought, I decided that I wanted a princess seamed robe with a flare at the hem. To achieve this goal, I decided that a princess seamed dress pattern could be adapted with minimal fuss.

The search began.

After combing through current pattern offerings, out of print patterns, independent offeringss, you name it, I came up with Vogue 9162.

Vogue 9162

This particular pattern is out of print, but I found it on ebay. It had the features I wanted, including an attractive yet simple neckline, and it was available in my size. Vogue pretty much always has a dress similar to this in its catalog, but the design details vary. There were a couple versions I liked even more, but they weren't available in my size.

I collected a few fabrics that would work for a robe. I wanted a cozy robe, so no silks this time. I am not a fan of polyester fleece, in general. There are exceptions, of course, such as authentic Polar fleece, but many of the copycat synthetic fleeces feel awful and "plastic-y" to me and I hate to touch them. I also dislike Minky fabrics which, while soft, are not absorbent and make me hot.

FabricMart had a poly Berber Fleece in stock that looked promising - I liked the design of the print and the colors. I ordered some, hoping to use it for a jacket, but when it arrived, it definitely felt like robe fabric to me. The fabric content is poly/lycra content, but it has a better hand than some fleece fabrics and I decided that it was tolerable. I had to order a couple more yards, as this pattern burns up yardage. (As of this writing, they have 34 yards left.)

Materials:

• Poly Berber fleece (poly/lycra blend) from FabricMart
• Black 1mm elastic (for button loops)
• 5 "used" carved wooden buttons from my grandmother's button box. My grandmother didn't sew, but she cut buttons off of clothing and saved them. Most of her buttons are sad and not really usable. In this case, she rescued 5 carved wooden buttons. It appears that the original garment was well used - several buttons still had tired, original thread attached and they almost look singed around the edges, which I assume was intentional. I'd hate to think that Gramma was cutting buttons off of burned clothing. :)

Alteration and Construction Notes:

• I made a size 18, view B - the longer version.
• I did a fairly large Princess Seam FBA. It went awry, however, and I had to do some darting to fix it. Luckily for me, it doesn't show in this fabric. If I make this again, I'll have to fix the FBA.
• Narrowed the shoulder seam by 1".
• Used the fabric selvedge as trim for the front opening and the sleeve hems.



• Narrowed the front facings.
• Drafted a back neck facing.
• Added in-seam pockets.
• Eliminated the collar (as much as I liked it, I decided to forego it in favor of the self trim.
• Used 5 large (1-1/4") buttons with elastic button loops. I had planned to use 3 large buttons, but found these in the button box and decided to keep them all together.



• Shortened the sleeves about 1-1/2".
  

Conclusion

I like it! This is warm, snuggly, and I don't fall out of it when I sit down or bend over to pick something up. And I feel a bit like a Russian princess when wearing it. ;)

More Pictures

Oops, a couple motifs are on the bust. No worries, when I wear this without a bra, which is how I will almost always be wearing it, it's not quite so bad. ;)

I've covered all the bases. In both of these pics, I am not wearing a bra. I hope you agree that the new robe is more flattering. :)

Twirling

StyleArc - Terry Tie Cardi

More pics

To be honest, I bought this pattern against my better judgement. It was in my first order from Style Arc, so I've felt guilty as it languished. I just loved the design, but I was not sure that the style would work on me. And yet, now that it's finished, I think it does. At least I hope so. :)

This cardigan has shoulder tucks and ties to close the front. As designed, the ties are sewn into vertical darts. I changed this detail a bit.

Materials:

• Organic bamboo double-knit in slate blue. 98% bamboo, 2% lycra. As of this writing, they have 46 yards remaining. One side is a small rib and the other is smooth. It is a double fabric - you can actually separate the two fabrics. It is very soft and I machine washed and dried it. It came from the dryer a little worse for wear. I think that this fabric might pill over time, so it might last longer if it's not machine dried. The following pic shows the ribbed side, but I used the smooth side for the cardi, which seemed a bit less distressed. I would almost describe this fabric as a fine sweatering.
  
• Black tricot knit interfacing to reinforce the back neck and the two buttonholes.

Alterations and modifications:

• I started with the size 16. As usual for a size 16 Style Arc pattern, I added a 3" y-shaped FBA. However, this time I did a "normal" FBA, where the fullness extended to the front hem. I did this because I suspected I might need the fullness for the tied front, as my waist is much larger than a size 16 indicates. I think this was the correct decision. I rotated the dart fullness to the shoulder, where it translated into additional tucks.
• I didn't mark the location of the ties when I cut out the cardigan. I knew that if I used the ties, I wouldn't place them where the pattern indicated. Once I had the garment on the body, I decided I liked the fullness gathered at navel height. But I didn't want to use the ties. I liked how it looked when I secured the fullness with a safety pin. When I was talking to Chloe (about something else), I mentioned that I had to figure out another way to secure the draping, and she suggested inserting the tie between two buttonholes. I loved this elegant but simple solution. I put the garment on and marked where I wanted the buttonholes. I reinforced the area with fusible tricot.
• I widened the upper sleeve 1" (1/2" on each side) and tapered that to nothing.
• For the tie, I wanted a thin tie. I cut over 3 yards of fabric from the selvedge. It was approx 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" wide (I didn't measure it.) I sewed 1/4" from the fold for the entire length. I didn't trim the 3/8" raw edges so when I turned the tube inside out, the tube was slightly "stuffed." I trimmed the ends to clean them up and tied them into a knot.
• I didn't hem this, but I might need to if the fabric starts separating on me. To be honest, I used this fabric because I didn't mind if the project was a wadder. Now I want to make it up in some favorite fabrics.

Conclusion

I love this top! It is more flattering than I expected. The gathers at the waist detract from the bust and also detract from the belly. I love the shoulder tucks. I plan to make this again, maybe even several more. :)

Pictures

StyleArc - Sailor Sue Palazzo Pant

I don't think I've ever taken pics in my back yard before.

Another great pants pattern from Style Arc!

The Sailor Sue pant is, at first glance, similar to the Linda pant.

What are the differences?

The Linda pant is designed for stretch wovens. The Sailor Sue is designed for knits, such as a "cotton jersey with spandex, or any knit with spandex that is soft and drapey." I used a ponte for mine. Both pants have a straight leg. (The drawing for the Sailor Sue pant suggests that it might be a bit flared, but it is not.) The Sailor Sue pant has a wider leg than the Linda, but both are straight. For my size 10s, the Linda pant has a hem circumference of 18.5 inches and the Sailor Sue has a hem circumference of 22.5 inches. The Linda pant has a shaped waistband, and the Sailor Sue has the elastic sewn directly to the pant.

Both sew up in no time and I love both! (It takes less time to sew either pant that it does to drive to the mall and shop for pants.)

I used a cranberry ponte from FabricMart. I bought this fabric several months ago its no longer on the website, so I'm not sure of the exact fiber content, but I hope it's not the ponte that pills badly. :)

I made the pants exactly out of the envelope with a couple minor changes. First, I sewed on a waistband. I prefer a waistband. :) I cut off two inches from the hem, so they are a bit long for me. That's it!

I also sewed up another Linda pant but have no pics of it. I have a stash of stretch wovens, so I may be making several more pair. ;)

Sunday Notes

Well, this weekend wasn't as sewing-intensive as some. Both kids were here and there were inevitable (though enjoyable) distractions.

You may recall that about a month ago I purchased a handmade ham and seam roll from Stitch Nerd on Etsy.

The ham, in particular, was smaller than I expected, so I wasn't sure how much use I would get out of it. I've now used it for several projects and, I have to say, I LOVE this ham! (I don't use a seam roll too much, in general.)

First, it has a nice smell of sawdust. I really like the smell. The ham I've been using is a Dritz brand and I'm not sure what stuffs it so firmly, but it is not sawdust. I love how the steam can really penetrate the sawdust filling. This new one is just a bit malleable - that little bit of give makes it much easier to manipulate and use. I like it much better than the hard-as-a-rock Dritz ham.

At some point, I will be ordering a custom ham in a larger size so I can have small and large options. I will then retire the Dritz model. I really use my pressing tools, and this one is definitely Shams-endorsed! (I get nothing for my review, so don't worry about that. :)

Other than finishing my Liberty top this weekend, I also have another Style Arc cardi almost finished. It's a quick project, but I am tweaking it a bit, so I'm not sure when I will be posting it.

I hope you have a great week!

Sewing Workshop - Liberty in Blue Jacquard

A couple more pics

I'm a bit surprised at myself that I haven't yet made the Liberty shirt as designed. This is a great pattern - based on a Miyake design originally - but I have seen many boutique versions of this great top. If you don't have this pattern in your arsenal, you should.

The first few times I made this top, I used Heather N's pullover version. For those versions, I had traced off a Large and performed a 2" FBA. Since that time I have been doing my FBAs a bit differently, so this time I traced a size Medium, chopped the front off at the waist, performed a 3" FBA, and re-attached the bottom, merging them together at the side seam. I definitely prefer the fit of this version which hangs closer to my hips.

Both versions.
Left: Size Large with standard 2" FBA. Right: Size Medium, sliced at waist, 3" Y-shaped FBA on top, bottom re-attached, and side seam merged.
Result: Much better fit through the hips.

I have been meaning to make a buttoned version of the Liberty for over a year, but it took the Autumn 6-pack to get me to do it. This is my first top for the fall 6-pack.

The fabric is a 100% cotton jacquard from FabricMart. As of this writing, they have 14 yards remaining. I really love the drape of this fabric. The recommended care was dry cleaning or hand wash, but I tossed it into the washer and dryer and it came out like an heirloom tablecloth - such beautiful drape with heft to it. It's so rare to see woven cotton with such lovely drape.

Materials:

• 100% cotton jacquard in cornflower blue from FabricMart
  
• white Angel Weft interfacing from Apple Annie's for the front and neck facings
  
• 6 5/8" Dritz buttons from JoAnns
  

Alterations & Construction Notes:

• I decided to alter the collar. I changed the neckline and drafted a new collar. It wasn't quite what I wanted, so I left off the collar, but the neckline is lower/more open than the original pattern. I plan to play with this more in future versions.
• I used a size Medium with a 3" y-shaped FBA.
• I widened the back, creating 1" darts on each shoulder.
• I removed about 2" from the outer edge of the shoulder, tapering it to nothing.
• The pattern instructs you to do French seams on the shoulder and side seams. Because I had darts in both sets of seams, I did hand-sewn flat felled seam instead. I also used hand sewn flat felled seams on the sleeve seams.
• The size Medium sleeve is a bit too long. Next time I should shorten it by an inch.
• I used six buttons, spaced in three sets of two.

Pictures

Love the texture of the jacquard

Vogue 8397 view A - Midnight Blue Pant Funkiness

Now WHY didn't I make another pair of these pants before this??? This is possibly my favorite Marcy Tilton pants pattern. And that is saying something, because I really love my Marcy Tilton pants patterns!

I made this pattern more than a year ago in black ponte and they have been worn and worn and worn.

First pair in black ponte

I keep saying, "I need to make these again," but I haven't. So I am grateful to the 6-pack for making me follow through. I love the 6-pack already, as it encourages me to use patterns that have been successful but maybe haven't percolated to the top of the todo list.

I have been rather disillusioned with much of the ponte I have used in the last year or so. Some of it has held up ok, but some of it has pilled quite badly and some has even run at the seamlines. I am wondering if pontes with a higher percentage of polyester might be the problem. A friend found this fabric on Emma One Sock. This "midnight doubleknit" has a fiber content of 38%rayon, 35%poly, 23%nylon, 4%spandex. I decided to try it.

Emma One Sock's Midnight Doubleknit. It might look like black in my pics, but it really is a pretty shade of navy.

This fabric is 54" wide, nice and beefy, and SO soft. It sewed beautifully, though it's best to press from the wrong side because even on a cool-ish heat, it can get shiny. (Or use a press cloth.)

This pattern, by the way, is now out of print, but still available on the Vogue site for top dollar (unless they are having one of their clearance sales). You can probably also find it on ebay.

I am loving these pants already. They are garment #2 for my 6-pack. I really hope they hold up over time.

Now, I know folks will ask, where did you get that jacket?" This Nuno-felted jacket is from an Etsy vendor, FeltFieltroFilc. It was a custom order and I don't see it listed at the moment, but she has some nice stuff! I had planned to wear this jacket as part of Me-Made-June, because it's one of those purchased items that I haven't worn much, but I petered out on the MMJ challenge I had given myself of incorporating purchased items in my wardrobe and wore my standard me-made-my that I always wear. (And, by the way, I am not participating in Self Stitched September.)

As to this weekend's productivity: Other than these pants, I also cut out another pair of pants and I have a top almost finished. Both are for the Autumn 6-pack, so I am making good progress! I keep finding more fabrics in my stash that would work with this 6-pack, so I could easily turn this into a 30-pack. ;)

Friday Night Notes

Happy Friday!

Thanks so much for your feedback on my black jacket. I really appreciate it! I met DD1 for lunch downtown this week and I wore it. This "meet at center front, but doesn't overlap" sort of jacket seems to be very popular right now - I'm seeing it in numerous Fall lines. I think the style is growing on me.

I got a bit of sewing done this week. I made most of another Teagarden T in one evening. (Shown above.) The rayon lycra "trendy" knit was from FabricMart, though fabric.com also carried it. I also finished up a pair of charcoal stretch no-wale corduroy Linda pants from Style Arc. I am not sure what the difference is between no-wale corduroy and cotton velveteen, but they seem pretty much the same to me.

Charcoal No-wale Corduroy Linda Pants

Also, the buckles have been coming in. I now have some nice options, so thanks, again for your collective help. I was prepared to go to Goodwill to see what I could harvest, but I no longer need to. (It's too bad that the Goodwill just blocks from me is a Boutique and the clothing is too nice, and too expensive, to cut up. The nearest true thrift store isn't nearly as convenient.) I'm still collecting the more mundane hardware and supplies for the purse, and I haven't even selected the fabric for sure, so I'm not ready to start it yet.

You know what? Shopping for the buckles remind me how much I love hardware. I think many sewists do. I love hardware stores - always a pleasurable errand. I love using hardware in my garments: zippers, grommets, toggles, cord pulls, buckles, you name it. The only thing I don't like is when I don't have the right hardware for a project and it slows me down. :)

Autumn 6-Pack

So glad it is Friday! Unless something comes up, I plan to have a productive weekend. I have decided to join the Autumn 6-Pack on Stitcher's Guild. This is where you sew a coordinated set of clothing for a season. I have alluded to it, but not really talked about it. I have a plan, which I hesitate to share because it will, undoubtedly, change. But I have a pile of coordinating fabrics in charcoal, cream, and blue (including navy and some other shades of blue). I plan to mostly use TNT patterns. You will see at least one more Teagarden T - maybe two. :)

I will modify the suggested 6-pack somewhat. I've been reading the blogs of other folks who are also participating and this seems to be the norm - modify to make it work for you. The charcoal Linda pants (pictured above) are intended for my 6-pack.

Even though I rarely sew with a plan, I don't usually have clothing orphans because most things I sew go with black and I have a variety of black bottoms in different styles and shapes. But this will be an interesting experiment. I have intentionally not used black in my plan, but most everything should go with black. We shall see how it goes. :)

Not sure what to work on this weekend. There are three patterns that I want to sew and I can't find any of them. I guess it's time for a cleanup.

Have a great weekend!