Burda 2483 - A Holey Sweatshirt

This top started with the fabric. I found this novelty fabric on Marcy's website some months ago. It is a fuzzy grey fabric with holes edged in a bluish teal color. The back of the fabric has a teal colored blue tulle fused to the grey fabric. So the holes are "filled" with teal-colored mesh. Very unusual.

I knew right away that I wanted to use a solid teal contrast. I then bought three rayon lycra fabrics, two by mail order, and one in a fabric store, but without a swatch of the novelty fabric at hand. None was right. All three are a greenish teal and not a blue teal. I now understand when a friend of mine talks about the challenge of finding the "right teal". Blue-teal, in particular, seems to be hard to find these days.

I finally decided enough was enough. It isn't a perfect match, but I used the green teal. In the photos, it looks like a close match, but in real life, it is off.

I spent a lot of time dithering on whether I wanted a zip-up sweatshirt with a hood, or a pullover with a tube neckline. The tube neckline won, largely because I wanted to try this double collar. The outside collar, out of the holey fabric, is finished with a channel. At center front are two black grommets and a thin self tie is threaded through. The inside collar, made from the teal lycra jersey, is taller than the outside collar and is finished with a channel through which I inserted plastic tubing from the hardware store.

Other than the collar, this is a very straightforward pullover. The novelty knit has 2-way stretch. The stretch ran along the length of the fabric, so I cut it on the crosswise grain so the stretch would go around the body. I did my usual knit FBA, which meant lengthening the front 1-1/2". But when I went to sew the side seams, I could not ease the fullness in at the side seam because the knit, quite literally, had no give whatsoever in the other direction. So I sewed standard darts and that worked fine. The only other alteration I made was to narrow the shoulder by 2".

Finally, I wanted to add a pocket. I used a hanging pocket, also trimmed and lined in the teal rayon lycra jersey.

And that's it! (Oh, I should mention that I am wearing this over a black tee, or you would see through it.)

Arrow points to the upper right corner of the hanging pocket. I resisted the temptation to put two googly eyes above the mouth-like opening. :)

Holiday Vogues Are Out - Thanks Vogue!

The holiday Vogue patterns came out today. Is it just me?! The poses are much more "normal" this time around! I can appreciate the lines of the garments much better.

THANKS, Vogue!

Having said that, I'm not seeing lots of patterns that I must have (so.many.dresses...) but there are a few I will add to my collection.

First up, I am very excited to see an updated version of one of my favorite Sandra Betzina patterns, Vogue 1018, which I made 5 or 6 times. (Click the image below to see the review.)

The line drawing of 1018:

You can see the similarity best when looking at the line drawing of the updated pattern, which includes a cute top. The 60 tucks have been left off the new pattern, so it will be much quicker to make.

Next, I really like the man's hat pattern, Vogue 8869:

In fact, it was raining and I wore my own funky fedora today... (Not the most flattering picture, but I was on my way to Trader Joes.)

I really like the zipper treatment and asymmetric hem of this Katherine Tilton jacket, Vogue 8863.

I love the details on this coat, Vogue 8862, which looks like high end boutique RTW. Vogue showed it sewn up in black, making it hard to see the flounce front, so I'm also showing the artist illustration in red.

If you like close-fitting, cigarette-style pants, Vogue 8859 has nice lines.

In the new wardrobe pattern, Vogue 8865, I like the red leather jacket when made in the "deconstructed" view.

This Koos coat, Vogue 1331, features an interesting design treatment. I look forward to reading about how this was accomplished, though the swing shape of the coat is not for me.

This Pamela Roland garment, Vogue 1332, is interesting. It's like a coat nestled in a pea pod, or emerging from a chrysalis.

This Guy Laroche jacket is wonderfully futuristic. (I wouldn't make it in straight-coat-jacket white, though.)

It's simple, but I like this Very Easy Vogue 8854 top with (or without) hood.

So, Vogue, how about fewer dresses and more separates with funky details... Please? :)

Matrix Top

This top started with a sample of a pleated pocket that Diane Ericson shared at DOL. I loved it. In her version, the background fabric was "built up" around the pocket, similar to the center of a log cabin quilt block, except framed with background fabric.

I wanted to use the same idea of a pleated pocket, but to attach it to the background fabric like a regular patch pocket. I made three sample pockets before I was happy with the result. I experimented to figure out how to minimize bulk while retaining the pleats - a challenge in this substantial fabric. I used a single thickness of the fabric - the top edge of the pocket is the fabric selvege.

The futuristic "matrix" print is a 100% woven rayon twill from Emma One Sock. It is amazingly soft, drapey and has a "brushed" surface. The companion fabric is a solid black 100% rayon faille that I acquired from my friend Heather N, who recently did some destashing.

This pattern is quickly becoming my favorite TNT for woven fabrics - it's an OOP Adri pattern from Vogue, used most recently for my artist smock. (And, yes, I did use my smock at DOL!) For this version, I made these changes:

• Lengthened to fingertip length and created side slits.
• Used the same v-neck I had used for the "casually elegant" jacket, but this time I drafted facings, since I used bias binding for that jacket.
• The top has an asymmetric closing. I used black snap tape with white snaps for the closure. The snap tape is inserted into the right front edge between the outside and the facing, similar to a piping. (An idea from Diane E.)
• I rolled the solid black facing to the outside far enough to create the effect of a tiny, 1/16" piping. (Another idea from Diane.)
• I bought less yardage than usual, which is something Diane suggests to encourage a more creative approach. Because of this, I had to piece the sleeves. I decided to create a vertical insert in the sleeves. I put pleats in the sleeve inserts to echo the pleats on the pocket.
• The sleeves 3/4 length and are edged with more of the snap tape.
• I found two tiny holes in the fabric. I patched them with pieces of the fabric and frayed the edges.

There is a lot going on in this top, and it's a bit hard to see the detail because of the dark print, but I enjoy the subtle effect.

Constructing the pocket. Creating the pleated sleeve insert. One of the completed sleeves. The snap tape is inserted into the right front between the garment edge and the facing. One of the tiny holes that I covered with a self patch. Completed patch. The completed pocket with the other tiny patch above.

Too quiet at Chez Shams...

It feels like ages since I've sewn or blogged. I have been busy at work - I'm already behind on deadlines for Sept 2013... how is that possible? It's going to be a very intense year at work. I have written a blog post or two in my head - I know, not helpful.

I've also been suffering from mojo blockage. I think it's due to a variety of reasons. But what I have been doing:

• Watched my new stenciling DVD from Diane Ericson.
• I needed 1/2" foam for stenciling, so early one morning, I headed to Cushion Works in the Mission district of San Francisco. I bought a sheet of foam and several widths of cotton cording. I love places like this, that work with pros, but also sell supplies to regular people. If a business opens at 8am on a weekday, I know they are serious and I'm a happy camper.
  Two guys cut my cording. They also make custom cushions and can school you about different kinds and qualities of foam. Check out their blog.
• During a night of extreme insomnia, I set up a stenciling and silk screening station on my kitchen table. I've been playing - creating samples and filling up my design board. No pics yet. I plan to keep playing until I'm ready to embellish some larger pieces. It might take awhile.
• I've been stroking my stash and playing with my scraps. I have several pieces thrown on my dressform in the top pic.
• I've made some pocket samples, inspired by one that Diane showed us at DOL. I hope to use it on my current project.

And, finally, I settled on a project. I have it largely cut out and have started sewing. (I almost emailed some friends, "I've sewn a seam!!!", but I resisted.) I'm not sure if I can finish it by tomorrow, but hopefully I can find the energy during weekday evenings.

Forgiven, though it took awhile. This rascal never wants to lie on me, but he often lies nearby and reaches out to lightly touch me.
I'm not sure which one of us is the bigger curmudgeon.
It's me. Probably.
DD2 contacted me last week. She needed a baby picture immediately.
She was already late - this may not make it into the yearbook. I didn't have time to pull boxes from the garage and dig through them, so I took a picture of this photo, which is framed and hangs on the wall.
They are heart meltingly cute at this age, partly so you will still love them when they become teenagers.
It's just nature's funny little way.

Report - Artistry in Fashion 2012

While I was off at Design Outside the Lines a week ago, I had to miss one of my favorite annual events, Artistry in Fashion. I love Artistry in Fashion, so this was a sacrifice. But thanks to minions volunteers with cameras, I can share a bit of the event with you. (You can see more pictures on the Canada College Fashion Department Facebook page.)

Registration Booth

One of the primary events of AIF is, of course, the shopping.

Vendor booth - Susan Krimmer Designs
Vendor booth - B Sharp Accessories
Vendor booth
Shopping
Vendor pieces
Vendor pieces

There are a couple stylist shows throughout the day. For these shows, two stylists choose items from various vendors and style them into outfits which are displayed on live models. It's very interesting to see how the stylists combine pieces to create an outfit.

From the stylist show

There is an opportunity to visit the classrooms and to see student work.

Student work

And, of course, one of the highlights of the day is the guest speaker who talks and presents a trunk show. This year the guest speaker was Marsha McClintock of Saf-T-Pockets.

From the Saf-T-Pocket Trunk Show
Another Saf-T-Pocket garment

The following list includes blog posts from people who were able to attend this year. In their posts, they share their purchases, which is always fun to see. Jane (from Lucky Sew and Sew) managed to arrange a trip from the east coast to coincide with AIF!

• Jilly Be Joyful
• Lucky Sew and Sew

Next year I plan to attend AIF in person! (It is scheduled for September 28th, 2013.)

P.S. Not shown, but one of the vendors this year was Kayla Kennington. Today Kayla was the guest speaker at PenWag. I attended and enjoyed seeing some of her award winning projects and learning a bit about her process.

Which means not much sewing has been happening at Chez Shams. Maybe tomorrow!