Saturday, September 17, 2016

Teal Stripes in Wool (Dress) and Other Stuff



Teal Stripe Dress

I purchased this teal and black stripe fabric from Sewing Workshop last January or February. (I see it's still on their site!) It's a wool and acrylic blend and pebbled on one side. I'd been trying to decide how to use it when I realized that it would be perfect for one of my sheath tunic dresses.

I used the Style Arc Adele pattern to make myself a black wool doubleknit tunic dress a couple years ago. I wear that dress so much that it's pilling. I should really make another.

In fact, ironic aside: I recently learned that there's another sewist in my neighborhood—just a couple blocks from my house. I met up with Carrie for coffee and we realized that we were both wearing the Style Arc Adele! Hers really looked like an Adele (and very pretty) while my black tunic version only retains the neckline and armhole, but it was still funny! I wish I'd gotten a picture, but next time!

I dug out my pattern and, chop chop, had a dress in an evening. This is a great basic for me and I can layer many things on top.

A couple things to note.

Matching stripes:
The FBA I added to this pattern means that the stripes won't match up perfectly at the side seam. I handle that by matching the stripes at the hemline and as far up as possible. They won't match at bust level, but that's pretty much right under my arm. Why are you staring at my armpits? I would wonder. That's kinda weird.
Neckline finish:
I often finish my knits with a visible binding but, on these tunic dresses which are made with beefy knits, I like a cleaner look. The Adele neckline has a nice shape and uses narrow facings. Because I use a substantial knit, I whip stitch the facing to the body. The stitches are hidden in the knit, and the facing never flops around. You could also topstitch by machine.
I used a ponte for the facing, which is fused with interfacing, serged, and stitched down by hand. You can see the pebbled texture of the fabric on one side and the smooth texture on the other. I noticed that the smooth side snags fairly easily, so I'm glad I featured the pebbled side.


Koos Scarf

I had a half a yard of the teal and black stripe left over, so I decided to make a Koos infinity scarf! I've made several of these scarves and I love wearing them. The advantage of using the same fabric is that, when worn together, it looks like a cowl neckline. But sometimes you don't want a cowl, so I can have it both ways!

I had thrown this fabric into the washer before I remembered that it contained wool though, to be honest, I probably would have done it anyway. I love throwing wool into the wash. Before washing it was 52" wide, at least according to the Sewing Workshop website. After washing it was 45"—perfect for a Koos scarf!

A Koos scarf, so named because the technique was commonly used by Koos van den Akker, uses a half-yard rectangle of fabric. Koos' rectangles were collaged and embellished with bias strips. The rectangle is sewn on the bias. Kinda sorta. It's hard to describe and requires a leap of faith to sew. You can introduce one or more twists into the infinity scarf. I always use a full twist (or two half twists). This results in a scarf that lays very nicely on the body. The last time I made a Koos scarf, I blogged about it and linked to Linda Teufel's directions. Linda wrote a book about Koos, and she published an article in Threads Magazine about this scarf technique. See my post for more info.


Duster, Second Try

You might remember my heathered blue duster. I wore it on 4 different days since making it and I decided that it really was too long. One evening last week, I chopped it off. I removed 9".

I then realized that I should have more carefully checked the length.

It's now too short!

Oh well, I'll still wear it—I love how snuggly soft the fabric is—but I do wish I'd left it a couple inches longer!

And, yeah, I went to the bank and the grocery store dressed just like this! Hats rock. :D


Flaxseed Therapy Pillow

I'm sure you've heard of rice bags, yes? You heat them in a microwave and apply them to where it hurts. They are therapeutic except, over time, the rice dries out and the bag no longer holds heat as effectively.

My daughter, who is at university in Canada, accidentally left her heating bag behind, so I did some research. I learned about the superior effect of flax seed in re-heatable pillows. Flax seeds contain oil, so you can heat, and reheat, them endlessly. The oil does not evaporate and they continue to hold heat (or cold, for that matter).

I found this tutorial and here, where she talks about why flax seed is better. I whipped up a flax seed bag using some very soft denim, 2 pounds (more or less) of flax seed, and 1/2 cup of dried lavender.

Wow, it smells fabulous!

The flax seed pillow is part of my first care package to Canada. These items, along with two bars of fancy chocolate, cost $44 to ship. Ouch.


Artistry in Fashion 2016

So, local sewing friends, will I see you next weekend?

Next Saturday is Artistry in Fashion, one of my favorite days of the year! The featured guest is Sharman Spector, owner of Britex Fabrics. The Designer Showcase, a fashion show styled using clothing and jewelry from the vendors, is at 11am. I hope to see you there!

And, speaking of Britex Fabrics, did you see that they launched a new website this week? They are also hosting an event on Friday evening, PROJKT Maiden Lane. I'm not sure if tickets are still available, but I'll be there, too!

I have a boatload of sewing to do this weekend. I hope you have a great one!

And please join me on Patti's Visible Monday and Judith's Hat Attack!


Saturday, September 10, 2016

Teal Vest, Zippergasms, and More!


Long Teal Vest

I've finished another garment for Paris. Sandra Betzina released this tunic/vest pattern with the early Fall Vogue collection last July. I snapped it up in the first sale. I purchased this fabric, "Teal Double Weave", from Marcy Tilton last January.

It is a very interesting fabric. The double weave, which creates a quilted effect, was lovely to sew. It raveled a bit, but not badly, and it pressed beautifully. The yardage went through the washer and dryer like a champ. I also used a 2-way 24" zipper I'd purchased from Botani while visiting NYC.

I started with a size E (typical), View A, and made a few alterations and modifications:

  • The front-and-back-princess seam pattern has Dior darts, which I lowered and enlarged (typical).
  • 1/2" forward shoulder adjustment (typical)
  • The pattern has a CB seam, but I didn't notice at first. When I cut it out I put the back pattern piece on a fold. I could have easily sliced along the fold afterwards, but I decided not to. Instead, I removed the excess with two 3/8" darts at the back neck. I was pleased with this approach because it gives me another 1-1/4" of ease across the back. I don't mind having more ease in this non-stretch fabric.
  • Reinforced the back of the collar stand with extra stiff interfacing secured with rows of quilting
  • The pattern has no pockets. (Whaaaaaaaat?!) I added my "Covert Cavity Pockets."
  • The pattern has no front facings, meaning that the zipper tape is not covered. If you wear the neckline open, the wrong side of the zipper tape would show. I covered the tape with narrow front facings.
  • This sleeveless pattern is designed with extended shoulders and the armhole is on the small-and-tight side. I didn't like how closely fitted the armhole was for a layering garment, so I removed 1" around the entire armhole. I also didn't like how the extended shoulder cap looked on me (it looked a bit Romulan), so I removed another 1" from the top of the sleeve (removing a total of 2" from the top), creating a more natural armhole.
  • The vest is unlined, but I finished all raw edges with bias tape.

The pattern has no side seams, so use the other seams to control the shaping. My vest is a bit loose through the waist, but I wanted to be able to layer it.

Reinforcing the back collar

See the darts added to the back neckline

The "main" pocket opening of my "Covert Cavity Pocket."

Unzip the invisible zipper along top edge to access the stealth pocket inside.

A 24" double-ended zipper I bought from Botani when I visited NYC

I like how it layers!

Vogue 1510, Sandra Betzina's Zip Front Tunic and Vest


J.N. Zippers

I first visited J.N. Zippers in South San Francisco over 3 years ago in July, 2013. Last Thursday I made my second trip there. J.N.Zippers is a wholesaler who imports hardware from China. They have a (hard to navigate) retail website, Zprz, and a wholesale website, J.N. Zippers (which had been down for days until I told them on my visit). They don't have a brick and mortar store, but they are willing to sell to individuals who stop by. This means that you have to visit on a weekday, during the day. They are located in the industrial part of South San Francisco near the airport. They've actually moved since I was last there in 2013—they are now located at 380 Swift Avenue, #5. Parking is plentiful and free in this area. If you look at the massive building from Swift Lane, they are along the left side of the building, five businesses down.

They don't only sell zippers. They also sell giant snaps, buckles, cord stops, and purse hardware. I only have to walk into their office and look at their wall of goods to enter my spiritual happy place. I have lots of pictures to share with you. If you see something you like, and you can't find it on their website (they told me that they are working on an improved website, thank goodness), send them a copy of my picture and circle the item you want.

Their factory is next door to their office and they are willing to customize zippers for you by cutting them shorter or swapping the slider to one of their many decorative sliders. I was on a mission for zippers for a teal jacket. I found the perfect zippers and I had them customized while I waited. If you have a large order, they prefer that you come back later or that they mail them to you. There is not much going on in this part of town, but you can drive to nearby Burlingame or San Bruno for food or shopping.I was on my lunch break so I waited for my 6 zippers. I also bought two zipper lanyards and two polka dot zippers. I still have a stash of striped zippers from my last visit.

Enjoy!

My haul

I love all of the metallic shades!

I loved the 2-color zippers and asked if they could do red and black. She said that they'd have to get that from China. I didn't ask, but I assume that means they'd require a minimum order.

Thar she blows! The elusive striped zipper!

Giant zippers and center pull (luggage style) zippers!

A few of their rhinestone zippers—they had more variety in one of the binders

Giant snaps


Silk Chiffon Burnout Scarf

When I was in NYC last July, I purchased 2 yards of silk chiffon burnout. I saw lots of silk chiffon burnout fabrics at different stores in the garment district, so it must be an "in" fabric right now.

Measuring the silk chiffon burnout, Chic Fabrics, NYC

I intended the fabric for a scarf. I thought I would do the easy thing and tear the fabric to my desired dimensions (26" by 72"). It tore ok along the grain. But when I tried to tear it across the grain... what a mess! Regular silk chiffon tears very well, but not this stuff.

Oops, don't tear a silk chiffon burnout!

If the fabric had torn cleanly, I might have just left the raw edges unfinished, but this fabric needed to be finished, so I used a micro hem for sheer fabrics along three edges. I left the selvedge edge alone.

I've worn this scarf to work and I love it! It's as if a litter of kittens are cuddling my neck.


Sweater Knit Presto

Here is Presto top #7! (Savage Coco has made 12 herself and I need to catch up. ;) )

I really wanted one made out of a sweater knit. This is that same heathered sweater knit that I've already used for 3 projects in different shades of teal and blue. I just love this fabric! It's soft and drapey. Another great basic that I'll probably take to Europe.

Presto #6


DD1 needs some mom time this weekend, but I hope to squeeze in some sewing. I have one more jacket I'd like to finish for Paris, plus a raincoat which is almost finished. Otherwise, I'm working on some simpler projects.

Have a great weekend! Join me on Patti's Visible Monday.

Sunday, September 4, 2016

Heather Blue Duster Cardigan, Blogiversary, & More!


I have several small projects to share, including another pattern from the recent Butterick release.

TOC


Heather Blue Duster Cardigan

I reviewed this duster pattern in the last release of Butterick patterns. I liked that the neckline had some interest—it's not merely a jewel neckline—it's more of an abbreviated shawl collar. The pattern that I really wanted to make went missing so I ordered another on-sale copy and, meanwhile, gave this pattern a try.

The fabric, a heather blue sweater knit, is a drapey, lightweight, single knit. The pattern calls for a moderate stretch knit: jersey, ponte, or sweater knit. This fabric was fairly lightweight, but I decided to forge ahead. (Note to self: pay attention to your gut instinct.)

My alterations were fairly typical: I started with a size 18 and added a bust dart, made a forward shoulder adjustment and narrowed the shoulder by about 1". All of these are typical for me. I also decided to create a deep slit in the side seams (all the way to the waist) but, otherwise, I made the pattern as designed. Because of the slits, I finished the hem with 4 mitered corners.

It was a straightforward sew, but it's a lackluster garment. I finished the duster last Monday night and wore it to work on Tuesday. I felt very "meh" wearing it. In analyzing my reaction, I think there are two reasons. First, I think I'd prefer this pattern in a less droopy knit. The neckline just sort of lays there, defeated. I think it would be nicer in a ponte or another doubleknit with some drape. Also, the front band feels very wide—if I make this again I might narrow the front band a bit. Maybe.

Neatly finished seams

I'll probably try wearing this garment again—give it another chance—but I am very likely to send it on to a new owner. It's too bad because I quite like this knit, but I should have saved it for a different project.

Butterick 6368 (See & Sew)


Blue Knotted Scarf

I first made a red knotted scarf using a rayon jersey using a pattern from Sewing Workshop. I didn't love that scarf, but that was mostly because I was a little over-enthusiastic when stretching the strips—I ended up with Angel Hair when I should have aimed for Spaghetti.

I had a half yard of the heather blue sweater knit left over from the duster, so I decided to give it another try.

This time I didn't go quite as nuts when stretching the strips. I made this one quickly, in just a couple sessions, instead of the 1+ years it took me to finish the red one.

I LOVE this one!

Persistence pays!


Teal Presto

Last week Savage Coco asked, on Instagram, how many Prestos have you made? So I had to count and it was give (not counting a failed attempt that was operator error), but I already had #6 cut out. I decided I needed a teal Presto for Paris. I'm not sure where this fabric came from because I now have several similar teal jersey fabrics purchased from different sources!

I like it with my new knotted scarf!

I had dinner with Coco and a few other bloggers last week. Much fun!
Left to right: Coco, Meg, Beth, me, Laura, and Jillian (who is now more active on Instagram than her blog)
Photo credit: A stranger, taken with my camera phone.


Seventh Blogiversary!

I actually forgot my blogiversary this year! It has been 7 hears of blogging as of last Thursday, August 25th. I usually do my annual recap on my blogiversary post, but I wasn't feeling it last week. I will likely come back and do it later—it was a good year and I like to do a bit of reflection before looking forward.


Munich

I've talked about going to Paris this fall with the Tilton sisters, but I'm also spending some time in Munich. I'll mostly be working, but I have a little time allotted to play tourist. I won't be able to go to far afield, and I've started compiling a list of things to try and see, but do you have any recommendations? I'd love to hear about it!


Misc

I went to Seattle a couple weeks ago for work. This is becoming a regular trip for me, though I only rarely have time to play. For this trip, Kathy and I worked on chemo caps! She has updated her pattern to use fair isle to spell "f*ck cancer" in Morse code. She hasn't posted a pattern yet but, when she does, I will share it. We make these for Knots of Love and they love them, as you can see in this tweet:

We cast on, sharing the same two balls of yarn, in the Oakland airport

Waiting for our flight in the Seattle airport

We finished just before landing. We took this pic on our laps before de-planing

On our return we went in on an order for more yarn! Berroco Comfort is on the approved yarn list for Knots of Love, though the first two hats were knit with Red Heart Heartland


As it's now September, DD2 is back at university! She attended Gustavus Adolphus for one year, two years back. She did well, and it's a wonderful school, but it wasn't the right fit for her. She spent the last year working multiple jobs in San Francisco, socking away money, and now she's off to a new university in British Columbia. Her sister and I made two shopping trips with her before she left. Hey, for those of you who ship packages from the U.S. to Canada, any tips on how to do that economically?

Trip #1. By this time her sister had already done some solo shopping with her.

Trip #2. DD2 was never much of a shopper (unlike her older sis), so she's been learning new skills!


For those of you in the U.S., enjoy your Labor Day weekend! I actually have 2 more Paris projects almost done. One, a coat, is in timeout for misbehaving. For the other I need to run to JoAnn's today to buy invisible zippers. I have a huge zipper stash, but my stash doesn't extend to the invisible variety!

For those of you on Instagram, the #sewphotohop started last Thursday and runs through September. It's been fun learning about new Instagrammers! You can also check out my Instagram feed.

And, finally, join me on Patti's Visible Monday!