Technique -- Bias Fringe

Earlier today, I blogged about my latest jacket, and how I inserted self bias fringe into some of the seams. I volunteered to make a tutorial if anyone was interested. Gwen was interested, so here you go, Gwen. :)

Materials:

• Silk organza, cut into 1" bias strips and a little longer than the seam. The organza is inserted into the seam and, for me, a 1" piece of organza created a width of about 3/8", so if you want a wider width, cut your organza wider.
  
• Fashion fabric, cut into 1-1/2" bias strips, also a bit longer than you need. I made a separate strip for each of the six seams I was embellishing.
  

Instructions for sewing a strip:

• Iron the 1-1/2" bias strip of the fashion fabric in half, the long way. This crease becomes the stitching line.
  
• Center the bias organza strip over the bias fashion strip and machine stitch along the crease.
  
• Bring the edges of the fashion fabric together, so the raw edges meet.
  
• Likewise, bring the edges of the organza together, so the raw edges meet. You have re-folded the fabric along the line of stitching.
  
• Iron the strip. The fashion fabric layer is now doubled, as is the organza layer.
  
• Zigzag along the previous stitching line. This anchors everything and keeps it flat. The organza edge is inserted into the seam and, because silk organza was used, it creates minimal bulk.
  

Instructions for fringing a strip:

• Separate the fashion fabric layers - you will be fringing one layer at a time.
  
• Start unraveling the fabric, using an awl, or the back (non-cutting edge) of a seam ripper - a sharp tool of some kind.
  

  

  

• Once the first edge is unraveled, do the same on the other edge. At this point, you will have fibers that go every which way.
  

  

  

• Spend some time orienting the fibers to the correct direction. It can help to use a comb to "groom" them.
  

  

  

At this point, there will be errant fibers that are too long. I gently trim these after sewing the strips into the garment.