I started this t-shirt before my trip back east, but I put it aside to finish some pieces for the trip. My local ASG chapter featured a "perfect t-shirt" theme this month, so I was happy to have an excuse to finish this top. If you look at view B, you will see that it flares at the hips. I knew I wouldn't like this look for me, so I did some altering to remove the flare without compromising the integrity of the side inset. I didn't want to take all of the fullness from the side seam and end up chopping the inset so that it lost its length. (If that makes any sense...)
Materials
- Heathered grey ponte from FabricMart. This soft ponte has a very subtle stripe. I also used this fabric for a pair of Marcy Tilton pants. I have enough for one more garment. :)
Alterations and Construction Notes
- I started with a size 22. Based on the finished bust measurement, I decided not to do an FBA.
- Rather than follow directions and cut the inset so that the stripe is horizontal, I cut it so that the stripe (which is very subtle) is on the bias. I did this because I felt that a horizontal stripe makes the bust larger - it's like a giant arrow. :)
- I shortened the sleeves by 3", but they were still a bit long.
- I narrowed the shoulder about 3/4".
- I removed fullness at the underarm from both the sleeve and the side seam.
- I did quite a bit of fitting in the "princess" seam and in the side seam. I removed as much as possible from the front piece, and as little as possible from the inset to preserve its length as much as possible. That length helps the top look more slim.
- By the time i got to the hem, I was in a hurry and I knew the top wasn't perfect to begin with, so I just slapped the hem allowance up and stitched. This is why it's a bit rippled. Had I wanted a nice flat hem, I would have used Steam a Seam Lite. I can always re-hem it later if it bothers me too much. :)
I transferred all shaping back to the tissue pattern, so that I can make this again. It's not quite perfect, but I like the fit overall. I removed perhaps a bit too much from the front so the side seam is a bit unbalanced. I'm not sure yet whether I want to play with the fit more and balance the side seam - it's non-trivial since I don't want to affect the front inset too much.
Anyway, I think this is a nice pattern, with good potential for the busty. It requires a bit of fitting for the hip-less, however, unless you like a flared hem. :)
I wore this tee all day yesterday and popped it on again this morning for a photo. So it looks a bit rumpled, aside from the hem. :)
It's much more attractive slimmed at the hip, I think. I'm always suspicious when models are shown in artificially posed positions (twisted, 3/4ths view; arms crossed in a crucial area, etc.). I suspect "artifice" rather than "art", and this Vogue photo was one of those that made me skeptical.
ReplyDeleteThe insert is interesting, though, and I like your version much better than the one on the Vogue site.
What method do you use to shorten the shoulder seams?
ReplyDeleteThanks, Noile. :) I hadn't noticed the model's pose until you pointed it out.
ReplyDeleteTreefrog, I put a mark where the seam should be, add S/A, and redraw the line. I first study the top in the mirror to decide where to taper the line back to the original armscye.
Whenever you make one of these tops, you always cause me to look at the pattern in a different, better way...because your garments are always soooooo much more appealing than the pattern envelopes.
ReplyDeleteThis is another great top!
Great job, Shams! I have that pattern too but our shapes are not even remotely similar. I'll keep the flared hem, for example, to have room for my hips!
ReplyDeleteDo you think you'll take in the shoulders a little more? They look a bit over the edge, so to speak, although maybe it's because you'd already worn it all day.
Wow, Shams you improved the look of this top immensely! I just could not imagine how the flaring at the hips could be flattering on anyone except the model.
ReplyDeleteIt looks gorgeous on you!! Maybe you ought to apply for the pattern drafting job at Vogue Patterns!
That's a cute pattern, and your top turned out great. The side panels look like a good place for some embellishment, or creative fabric choices.
ReplyDeleteYou are so right about the horizontal stripe on the inset. Any woman over a size 4 so does not need a horizontal stripe there.
ReplyDelete