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Sunday, August 14, 2011

Sewing Workshop - Liberty in Blue Jacquard

A couple more pics

I'm a bit surprised at myself that I haven't yet made the Liberty shirt as designed. This is a great pattern - based on a Miyake design originally - but I have seen many boutique versions of this great top. If you don't have this pattern in your arsenal, you should.

The first few times I made this top, I used Heather N's pullover version. For those versions, I had traced off a Large and performed a 2" FBA. Since that time I have been doing my FBAs a bit differently, so this time I traced a size Medium, chopped the front off at the waist, performed a 3" FBA, and re-attached the bottom, merging them together at the side seam. I definitely prefer the fit of this version which hangs closer to my hips.

Both versions.
Left: Size Large with standard 2" FBA. Right: Size Medium, sliced at waist, 3" Y-shaped FBA on top, bottom re-attached, and side seam merged.
Result: Much better fit through the hips.

I have been meaning to make a buttoned version of the Liberty for over a year, but it took the Autumn 6-pack to get me to do it. This is my first top for the fall 6-pack.

The fabric is a 100% cotton jacquard from FabricMart. As of this writing, they have 14 yards remaining. I really love the drape of this fabric. The recommended care was dry cleaning or hand wash, but I tossed it into the washer and dryer and it came out like an heirloom tablecloth - such beautiful drape with heft to it. It's so rare to see woven cotton with such lovely drape.

Materials:

  • 100% cotton jacquard in cornflower blue from FabricMart
  • white Angel Weft interfacing from Apple Annie's for the front and neck facings
  • 6 5/8" Dritz buttons from JoAnns

Alterations & Construction Notes:

  • I decided to alter the collar. I changed the neckline and drafted a new collar. It wasn't quite what I wanted, so I left off the collar, but the neckline is lower/more open than the original pattern. I plan to play with this more in future versions.
  • I used a size Medium with a 3" y-shaped FBA.
  • I widened the back, creating 1" darts on each shoulder.
  • I removed about 2" from the outer edge of the shoulder, tapering it to nothing.
  • The pattern instructs you to do French seams on the shoulder and side seams. Because I had darts in both sets of seams, I did hand-sewn flat felled seam instead. I also used hand sewn flat felled seams on the sleeve seams.
  • The size Medium sleeve is a bit too long. Next time I should shorten it by an inch.
  • I used six buttons, spaced in three sets of two.

Pictures

Love the texture of the jacquard

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14 comments:

  1. JillybejoyfulAugust 14, 2011 at 11:03 AM

    Why don't I have this pattern? You're right, it looks like a basic must-have! Love the color on you, & as always, you're a fitting goddess!

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  2. sdBevAugust 14, 2011 at 11:08 AM

    This is gorgeous!. I'm like Jilly Be, why don't I have this one?

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  3. AnnAugust 14, 2011 at 11:24 AM

    This is so flattering on you. Great change in your altering method. This new one is perfect. Love the color too.

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  4. BetsyVAugust 14, 2011 at 11:48 AM

    This blue top is fantastic Shams. Much MUCH better fit!

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  5. AnonymousAugust 14, 2011 at 1:25 PM

    Your blue Liberty shirt looks wonderful on you, shams! I really like this pattern as well.
    Martha

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  6. BunnyAugust 14, 2011 at 2:29 PM

    Looks great and that color is wonderful on you. More!

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  7. gwensewsAugust 14, 2011 at 5:40 PM

    That's a wonderful top. Looks like it can serve as a jacket as well. Very pretty.

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  8. shamsAugust 14, 2011 at 7:37 PM

    Thanks so much, everyone! Gwen, good observation. I do plan to make a jacket version of this at some point, when I've refined the neckline a bit more. And for that I would use a beefier (though still drapey) fabric.

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  9. FranAugust 15, 2011 at 4:19 AM

    Shams, I agree -- this is one of Sewing Workshops best patterns. It seems to be flattering on everyone. I've made 3 and still am not tired of it. It is very versatile, depending on the fabric. Yours versions are lovely.

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  10. Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic)August 15, 2011 at 7:01 AM

    This is the cutest top but I have to tell you that even though we both purchase alot from fabric mart, I somehow manage to purchase different things than you!

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  11. DixieAugust 15, 2011 at 8:51 PM

    Great looking shirt, with effective fit adjustments. Sounds like you're well on your way to a perfect fit! I've been thinking about purchasing this pattern. You've helped me see how versatile it can be!

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  12. CarolynAugust 16, 2011 at 12:36 AM

    It's lovely, and I particularly like the asymmetric bizzo on the sides. Very very nice. I'm really looking forward to seeing the 6-pack!

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  13. NoileAugust 17, 2011 at 7:55 AM

    I made this top several years ago, with disastrous results. Your FBA tips would have made all the difference, and I'll keep them in mind for the future.

    Love the fit of your blue version; keeping the hip size as it should be gives really nice proportions.

    ReplyDelete
  14. MarciJanuary 8, 2013 at 9:19 AM

    I recently purchased this pattern after reading your post - I have a full bust (51" DDD cup) and my hips are much smaller so I think this method of altering the pattern would give me a much more flattering fit. I will also be checking the shoulder width because I really feel sloppy when the sleeve/shoulder seam falls off my shoulder. Thanks for sharing how you did it!

    ReplyDelete