I bought a pattern recently based on a post by Sew Ruth. The pattern, by Center for Pattern Design, and called the CB Spiral Blouse, is based on a design by Balenciaga. It is cut on the bias and consists of a single pattern piece. This sort of design really appeals to me so I ordered it right away.
The pattern comes in a size Medium which, according to the instructions, accommodates a bust size of 36-39". Because the pattern is cut on the bias, and different fabrics behave very differently on the bias, it's hard to predict how each fabric is going to hang or how the final top may fit. You can't just measure the flat pattern with confidence that it will just work. Also, because the pattern has no shoulder or side seams, you have less leeway to fudge the final garment.
Therefore, this is a pattern you really must test out. For my test garment, I used a fabric that a friend de-stashed - it's a loosely woven, textured cotton in a sage green color that has a nice drape. It has a subtle stripe. The pewter buttons are from my stash.
Alterations and Modifications:
- The pattern has two lines where you can add or remove width to size up or down. I added 1.5" along each line, for a total of 6" of additional width.
- The top is designed to be shorter in front and longer in back. But I felt that it was too short it front, so I added 1.5" at CF, merging it to the existing hem near the side seam.
- I didn't like the fullness at the hem under the bust, so I took two generous tucks which are partially stitched down.
- The pattern is designed to be a 3/4 length sleeve which is sewn on a spiral. I cut the sleeves to be as long as possible, given the width of my fabric. When I tried on the top, I decided I really liked the uneven edge, so I preserved that shape when I hemmed the sleeves.
Conclusion:
I really like this top and plan to make it again. It would be fun to change up the neckline. I would like to achieve a non-ripply seam in the back, but am otherwise liking it very much.
Spam:
On another topic. I have been reamed, for some time now, with spam comments. Most are caught by the blogger software and end up in a spam box, but I still have to delete each one manually. A few land in the moderated page, and I also have to delete each one manually. A few slip through. I am considering disallowing anonymous comments on my blog, as the lion's share come in anonymously. I kind of hate to do that, though, so tell me what you think.
I hope you are having a lovely weekend!
More Pics
This is a sweet top-as usual you're pushing the boundaries on sewing unique stuff. I've seen some interesting patterns on their website but never tried any out because I assumed they'd require too much testing, fitting etc. This one looks really cool though-might try one of their patterns out when the Uni semester ends.
ReplyDeleteRe: comments, I think people should be held responsible for their opinions (unless it is a political/ religious blog discussion where revealing your identity could get you jailed/ killed in real life) so I don't support anonymous comments. I find it tends to keep the discussion reasonable and polite XD I also agree with you that spammers post anonymously so thumbs down for that.
It's an interesting top and looks great on you! As for not allowing anonymous comments, since I don't allow them, I get very little spam. What I do get is easily removed. So maybe try not having anonymous comments for a minute and see how that works!
ReplyDeleteLooks super on you, the unusual styling certainly suits you...J
ReplyDeleteI, too, love this pattern. I've done one quick and dirty muslin, and I did lengthen it, but will had a bit at the "add lines" next time. You look fantastic as does this blouse. I, too, have been having trouble with spam comments (I probably don't get near the volume that you do.) I've also thought about blocking anon comments, but haven't yet. Understand if you need to do that. Keep life (and blogging) as simple as possible.
ReplyDeleteShams, you are looking fantastic, and the top looks great on you. The front tucks are a nice touch, I like the shaping it adds. I turned on comment moderation, and also am considering turning off anonymous commenting. Too much spam for me too.
ReplyDeleteGorgeous!!! And the top looks good, too! This is such a creative pattern...I can't wait to try it out. You are looking mighty fine...Brava to you!
ReplyDeleteMy goodness you're getting thin! You look terrific. Love the top. It's a pretty color to transition into spring.
ReplyDeleteIt's a great top. It's simple but unique.
ReplyDeleteI am getting a lot of spam as well; I think that I am going to not allow anonymous comments as Carolyn suggests.
A very attractive blouse on you, Shams! And, yes, you are looking "mighty fine" as Margy mentioned.
ReplyDeleteWith content as awesome as you write, I wouldn't worry about losing readers because of not allowing anonymous comments.
ReplyDeleteYou look great! What are you doing that's driving this change?
Thanks, Mary. It's diet and exercise. Specifically, I am following a program called Eat to Live by Dr Joel Fuhrman. He has written books and has a website, if you are interested.
DeleteYes, I wanted to also say you are looking amazing darling x
DeleteHoly Moly! You are looking amazing. AMAZING.
ReplyDeleteIt is official, you are my inspiration for climbing back on the diet and exercise bandwagon.
BTW- love the top. 8-) And I can only imagine how much spam you get (my poor excuse for a blog used to get lots), go with no anonymous comments. It is easier.
Your blog sure makes me wish I could sew! Nice top -- and you are looking good!
ReplyDeleteI had to remove the anonymous comments option too and for the same reason. I am still getting spam comments with names but fewer. So annoying....
That pretty-color blouse drapes so gracefully over your figure, which is looking great, by the way! Thanks for the review.
ReplyDeleteGreat shirt, thanks for pointing out that pattern :-). You can probably un-ripple that back seam by sewing it on a serger, or as if it was in a knit, because your woven pretty much behaves as a knit when on the bias.
ReplyDeleteOn the other hand, I almost never comment un-anonymously, this is my last one here. Don't want them traceable back to any solid identity, sorry. I can see being annoyed at the comments you have to moderate, but why bother with the ones that land in spam? If blogspot is bothered by the space they take up, they can give you a mass delete feature, or simply delete them automatically after a certain amount of time (which they may already do anyway, have you checked?).
I understand, MC, and thanks for letting me know. If it were only in the spam page of the blog, that would be one thing, but I also get lots of emails. It's maybe 30 or 40 spam comments per day and it gets old quick.
DeleteThis blouse is so unique - I really like it. It's different without being waaaaay out there. And it flatters you!
ReplyDeleteRe. comments, I'm about to eliminate anonymous ones from my blog, and I don't get near the number of visitors as you. I say go ahead and do it.
I really like this top on you. Very flattering fit.!
ReplyDeleteGreat looking top on you! I just cut out a muslin of this pattern this morning and was wondering about resizing it. It is such an interesting pattern.
ReplyDeleteAs many others have said, you look great these days.
I would get rid of anonymous posts if I had a blog.
One doesn't need to be harassed in anonymous comments. Just tell us, your serious sewist followers, what we need to do to stay in contact with your blog. Thank you, Shams, for your terrific ideas and inspiration. I truly enjoy your blog!
ReplyDeleteYou don't need to do a thing, Rhodeanie. I did turn off anonymous comments already, but you are not anonymous! :)
DeleteHi Shams, all your hardwork on your health front is really paying off! Great job! I'm goign to look up that book you mentioned.
ReplyDeleteThe top looks really nice on you!
Thank you so much for posting about this pattern. It's in my treasure box and just this afternoon I was looking at it, pondering its wonderfulness and oddness! It really looks great on you! what an inspiration!
ReplyDeleteExcellent version Shams. A perfect fit too and the colour really suits you. It's a great wee top isn't it? I've more scheduled for the summer.
ReplyDeleteYou are melting away and looking fabulous while doing it :) This top really suits you, esp with your design changes. Well done, there. As for spam, I hope you'll do what you need to to stop it. It's a perpetual scourge across the blogoverse. Spammers shouldn't get a break and we shouldn't have to work so hard!!! I would like to be able to comment using the "Name/URL" option the some bloggers allow, tho. Right now if I use the WordPress option it says that "Anonymous" is posting :o
ReplyDeleteThis is great!!! You and Ruth demystified it and now I kind of want to try it- ok, I'm still scared, but I want one!!!
ReplyDeleteThat's a fascinating pattern - looks great on you.
ReplyDeleteNot sure what you are seeing as problematic with that center back seam; it looks lovely to me. I especially like the way it hugs your neck at the back. Such an interesting and elegant top. Looks as though it would be comfortable, too. I also decided to disable anonymous commenting--the spam comments are just so strange and I couldn't help myself from skimming them. How do they generate such odd syntax?
ReplyDeleteI love that blouse. They're on my radar too!
ReplyDeleteI disabled the anon commentor long ago. I do allow post with user name and web site so a few get through but not nearly as many. It's something all bloggers are struggling with. The capcha boxes kill comments but who want to sort through ton of spam?
I absolutely love the top. Thank you for sharing your modifications. I haven't sewn for decades, since I was a teen and I am in my early 60s now. I long to start again, this time with more instruction. So I am particularity appreciative to hear your process and absorb the principals. As per limiting the comments, if you were to do that, how does one become a team member. I was baffled on another sewing blog, perhaps I am not thoroughly reading the guidelines.
ReplyDeleteYou are fine, Yuki. You are not anonymous, so your comments are coming through. Thanks for your feedback!
Deletedid you say that has one pattern piece? a nice puzzle, I am trying to imagine it. I like the lighter color on you. very pretty for spring.
ReplyDeleteYes, Beth, one pattern piece. And it spirals around the arms.
DeleteVery cool, Shams. It really suits you. I really admire how you have the courage to tackle these "different" patterns.
ReplyDeleteLovely top and lovely teensy you! Remarkable. Your tweaks on this pattern for fit and style are perfect for your fabric and you. As to the ripple seam- my go to solution is the very fine fusible tapes from Emma Seabrooke of SewKeysE. She's got them for wovens and knits in various widths. I never see a change in the fabric hand. Also try machine tricks- adjust pressure foot, walking foot and if you've got it an IDT feature. A bias seam near the shoulder holding the garment weight? Well good luck Shams!
ReplyDeleteAnother beautiful top! I saw those interesting patterns of one piece, and that they are in Medium, (are they all in M?), and thought "oh well, not for me I guess". The one-seam thing made me wonder if and how it would be possible to adjust. Thank you for letting us know how you made it fit. You make it seem so easy. Great job! The front is lovely, and also the back. It's nice that the back is interesting, too! I really like that drape.
ReplyDeleteI think anonymous comments would be a pain. I think you did right by blocking them.
Very cool top but look at you! You are getting so much thinner and trimmer. You go girl.
ReplyDeleteGreat top Shams. It would be interesting to try it it different types of fabrics. I guess you need one with drape. Maybe a very soft felted wool? Or wool jersey? I guess it's starting to warm up in SF now though. Have you done something different to the neckline? Can't quite see from the picture but maybe the original just has a kind of fabric strip tied around the neck. What you have done is lovely. As far as anonymous comments, I never comment anonymously so it doesn't bother me :)
ReplyDeleteLove reading your blog. You are so imaginative! I'm an older sewist (73). I don't sew as much as I used to but I like sewing vicariously through you! I enjoy so many sewing blogs...A Fool for Fabric, La Sewista, Two On Two Off, Deconstruct, Alter, Create (what has happened to Peggy? She hasn't posted in months-I hope she's not sick)? The list of my favorite blogs is so long...
ReplyDeleteI wish I could figure how to get my name on my posts.
DeleteYou always find the most interest design features. Love... On the spam, gosh me too, I disallowed anonymous and it completely stop spam but many readers couldn't comment. Now I'm trying the route to approve before it shows on the blog. See what happens
ReplyDeleteI especially love how the sleeves hang on you! I'm working on the bias pullover right now and it's a great education in fabric behavior ;) If you figure out how to remove the ripple from the bias seam (although I don't think it detracts from the beauty of your top at all), please share ;)
ReplyDeleteOn my monitor, your top is cornflower blue - and you look great in "my" blue version, too!!
lovely top and goodness you have lost a lot of weight - you look fantastic.
ReplyDeleteWow, thanks for letting us know about this! The back is like SW Origami blouse, but this has classic simplicity. You are always an inspiration.
ReplyDeleteLove that top! I'm going to order the pattern...just can't imagine out how it's cut/sewn, so it should be fun. You look great!!!
ReplyDeleteIt's always lovely to read about experiences working with fabric on the bias - this is pretty darn cool. I love the sleeve hem treatments :)
ReplyDeleteI don't allow anonymous comments - same issues re the spam.
The pattern for the CB spiral blouse isn't availble anymore. If anyone wants to sell theirs, I would like to buy it. My e-mail address is jpinkham@unitelsd.com. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteHi Judi! That didn't sound right to me so I just called Sandra Ericson at Center for Pattern Design. The pattern is still available. She prints her patterns on demand so they will be available as long as she remains in business - she said that they should still be available in 20 years.
DeleteLove this! You have a good eye for patterns! And the colour and fabric are gorgeous.
ReplyDeleteThis is a great top for you, Shams. I always enjoy reading about your thought process as you assess how to use a new pattern and style. Thanks for being so inspiring.
ReplyDelete