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I continue to hear good things about changes at the helm of McCalls patterns. This is very heartening to hear.
I hear that they are open to input.
In that spirit, I am going to give some feedback on all of the non-dress patterns that were released today in the Winter/Holiday batch of patterns. I normally only highlight my favorites, but I thought I would expand my comments this time around. There are a lot of dresses and I will leave those to be reviewed by folks who wear dresses, or get excited by dresses.
I am very excited about this asymmetric, seamed vest from Marcy Tilton.
Very. excited.
I. want.
Marcy Tilton has a new accessories pattern. This has 2 hats, both are incredibly cute, as well as some scarves and fingerless gloves. I am especially in love with both hats.
Sandra Betzina has a new tunic top and leggings. I know from experience that these leggings are likely to be too large for my freakishly tiny hips, but the top is cute with draw strings in the shoulder seams. It strikes me as a rather summery design, so it's interesting that it was released in the winter batch.
While this is a cute vest made up in the black organza with striped binding, it is very loose and unfitted. This would not flatter me at all. Clothes that lack shaping below the bust are not for me, but it would be cute on the right person. (It would look great on Peggy!)
I love Koos van den Akker's design aesthetic but, once again, this coat is too unfitted for my liking. I will buy this pattern anyway because it has interesting details. One of my friends calls patterns like this "reading material".
This is a nice basic wrap skirt with drape options. I like it.
Two styles of wrap tops. These are cute and unusual!! I like very much! (Though I would have to muslin the cropped version to see if it works with my bust - it all depends on where it lands.)
Another tee that is fitted through the bust, flares at the hem, and has a high-low hem. There is a cowl option. It feels like we have seen this many times before. I wish this top offered more interesting details, more variety. We see the same styles over and over. It's fine if you don't have anything like this in your pattern stash, but it feels like a missed opportunity.
Pullover tunic (with optional hood) has side slits, back is slightly longer than the front, kangaroo pocket.... YAWN. Again, we have seen this. Repeatedly. I was at a blogger meetup recently and a woman was wearing a hoodie that had an interesting detail at the wrist. It was fitted at the wrist and there was a shaped inset using a really stretchy power-type fabric. It was very cool. Why can't we have some interesting details like this? Or maybe an unexpected pocket. Please? This feels like another missed opportunity, Vogue.
Really?!?!? Haven't we seen this a million times? And, by the way, if you have a large bust, this yoke might be very unflattering indeed. Unless you are a completely new sewist, you already own a version of this pattern. Definitely a missed opportunity. (It also looks like the neckline might be very wide and might need modification.)
Don't be seduced by the stripes. This top is ok, it isn't really exciting, but it's got some interest to it. The skirt and pants are basic. This pattern is a maybe for me - it's ok, but doesn't have me super excited.
Really, Vogue? Only one pattern for men and this is it?! If I sewed for men, I would not be happy. I have been craving (for years now) INTERESTING robe patterns. Something other than the ubiquitous wrap robe. For example, how about a robe like this:
Vogue?
Someone???
O.M.G.
Look at these pants. LOOK AT THESE PANTS!!!
Excuse me while I elbow people out of my way to get at these pants.
And they come in a size 4!!!!!
SWOON. This and Marcy's vest are my two favorite patterns in this batch.
HEY! Did you SEE these PANTS?!?!
Wow, if you need something like this, view A, with the seaming is very interesting! (The pic above shows the back of view A.)
Easily one of the most unflattering patterns I've seen in a long time. I wore this top in the 70s, when I was a teenager. It didn't look good on me then, either. This style is not flattering on most, unless you are very thin and your fabric is very floaty.
This is ok. I always look at suit patterns because I hope that I might see a jacket I want. This one seems like one I've seen a million times before. Nothing new or exciting in the details. The bias top/dress has flutter sleeves. It might be worth purchasing the pattern if it excites you, but it doesn't grab me.
Again, nothing new or exciting here and, in fact, that deep v-neck with the low-slung lapels (view D) can give one a "droopy boob" look. I wouldn't chose this silhouette, but it could look nice on the right figure.
Really, Vogue?!? Really??? As we head into winter, you give us one winter coat and this is it? It's not even lined and it is SO.BORING. A huge missed opportunity.
Well, that's my take on the batch. As always, YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary). :D
Less than exciting. Winters approaching and that's the coat they give us? How many time have we seen this? I love the Donna Karan outfit. I will even try the pants even though these are more you than me. I don't love the Tilton jacket because while it's interesting when you look at it it's still pretty shapeless, and not a good look for me.
ReplyDeleteIf I see one more boring dress I'll scream. All in all a not very exciting offering.
I hear you, Nancy, about your concern about the boxiness of the vest. In this case, I'll risk it, though I would not use a super rigid fabric.
DeleteThat is why I blogged my opinion on the lackluster patterns. Maybe not enough of us are speaking up. :D
I pretty much agree with you on the ho-humness and repeats in this collection. Very few new ideas. And how could you have missed the awfulness of V1372, designed by one of my favorite designers, Guy Laroche? It is atrocious and I can't imagine who it would look good on. Bah....
ReplyDeleteI wasn't reviewing dresses, but I *completely* agree. That is one atrocious dress, at least for most of us.
DeleteI saw a runway photo of a top very much like V1372 and liked it. The fabric selection is crucial. I think the fabric in the picture does not do the design any favors.
DeleteThe lack of patterns for men is insulting and a lost business opportunity.
Again, a tall supermodel could rock that look, but most of us would look like a frumpy monk.
DeleteAlison made me realize that the Laroche *is* separates and not a dress! Yes, I don't care for that one.
DeleteI like Marcy's vest and dress 8946. The pants are not for me, but I knew you'd like them.
ReplyDeleteI do like that dress and almost reviewed it, but I decided to stick to the non-dresses. It's very cute, though!
DeleteI also thought that there was a lot of more of the same. I have plenty of those fitted at bust, flared towards hemline, high-low hemline patterns (and finished tops) in my wardrobe already! That said, I do quite like the seaming in the 8962 top, and I entirely agree with you about those Donna Karan pants! The pants! Still not certain about the Marcy Tilton vest though - part of me really likes it, but the other part reminds me that I am short and apple shaped. I like the wrap skirt 8956 too. And dress wise, I do like 8946 and 8944, but am unlikely to buy or make either. It's interesting to hear what others think!
ReplyDeleteThornberry, you are wise to be wary of the vest if you are an apple shape. I wouldn't have been as interested 40 pounds ago.
DeleteHow ironic!
DeleteNot technically dresses:
ReplyDeletehttp://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v1368-products-47812.php?page_id=174
http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v1372-products-47816.php?page_id=174
Also:
http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8955-products-47835.php?page_id=174
http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8959-products-47839.php?page_id=174
Thoughts?
You are right! I thought that the first two were dresses, but they are separates. Well, I will state that none of these four patterns appeals to me. :)
DeleteI jumped on over to the site as soon as I received the email from McCall this afternoon that the new Vogues were out. And I have to say my first thought was how perfect those Donna Karan pants would be on you!!
ReplyDeleteI am really disappointed in the offerings this time around (just like the last batch, in fact). What happened to the vintage repros?! Aargh!
But I do understand that people want modern stuff, so I guess I will be happy with the fact that I will not be spending money on new patterns for a few more months. And to be honest, I do not NEED any more patterns - there are enough in my sewing room to last a few lifetimes. On the other hand, it would be nice to be thrilled by a fabulous design . . .
I understand, Laura Mae. At least there are lots of vintage patterns on Etsy! And, I admit, I am still coveting a few of them! What has HAPPENED to me?!?!?
DeleteAh-ha! All those fabulous details are hard to resist.
DeleteAnd I have to say that from your photo shoot, I could tell you were enjoying your new dress!
Laura Mae, your Gala ensemble will be stunning!
DeleteAs the dress woman, this latest pattern offering isn't worth a blog post to me. I like 3 patterns and will buy them during the next sale. It will be interesting to read other reviews of the line since I was much more impressed with the fall offerings than these.
ReplyDeleteMy feelings are that this batch is pretty typical to recent batches. A few that I like, very few that I love, and lots that are "meh".
Deletealways very entertaining to read your evaluations of the new patterns. for a few I thought bag lady...ok a bit snarky but sheesh, kind of dull and sack-like. That 1375 vest is horrible. I am always on the lookout for an interesting coat but that red one was not it, dullsville and you say it is not even lined? eek what are they thinking. The only ones (of the non-dress patterns) that I likes are the same DK pants as you mentioned (although probably not for my shape) and the skirt wrap skirt with the drape options - just because I have some plaid flannel that needs to get used. I do love V8944 the color block dress because the shape is just right for me. A lot of the items seemed very summer-y for a winter collection. Woeful lack of interesting suits, jackets, coats. Good thing I just got a new jacket pattern from Burda....slowly expanding my pattern horizons :) I will be buying one or two of the dress patterns in the spring, the V1372 dress has potential but not for November!
ReplyDeleteIt's interesting to hear the viewpoint from my friends who have a different style than I do. You, Carolyn, and Laura Mae all have a very different style than mine and from each other. Each of you sounds a bit disappointed.
DeleteDoes this batch make anyone happy and excited?
I love some of the dresses, especially 8945! I also think Tracy Reese's 1371 is a winner. And I see some possibilities with 8948. I was actually glad to see quite a few more patterns for those of us in the rectangle/cylinder camp. Maybe that's why they are less appealing to you more shapely beauties:) And I do have to agree with Margy -- that Guy LaRoche dress is SCARY!
ReplyDeleteThe sleeves on 8945 are lovely, Angela. I can see why you love that. :)
DeleteThanks for getting this conversation going. I had planned on making some winter type dresses but most of the new ones are either sleeveless or bare-ish.....why not save them til spring? Like you I can't wait to try those Karan pants as I want to try slimmer ones with seam interest....perfect, and hope they will work for denim with stretch!
ReplyDeleteYes, that seems so strange to me, Peggy! Why all of the summery silhouettes? Are they channeling the Australian sewists who are now going into summer? :)
DeleteAh Shams, despite the fact that we are going into summer over here in Australia, those patterns won't be available in the stores here for another six months! They hold off selling the patterns in the shops here until the appropriate season - which is why many Aussies buy them online from BMV when they go on sale.
DeleteActually the bare arms didn't bother me at all. I can always add a sleeve or a cardigan...probably why I liked V1370 and V8944. And after reviewing the collection once more this morning without the fever of anticipation, it is just okay. I will buy my three patterns and I'm fine with that. I bought so many from the last go around and have only sewn one. They will be announcing the spring collection by the time I've made a few more! *LOL*
DeleteWow, thank you, Shams. You're a one stop shopping guide. The communtaries are right on target.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Gayle!
DeleteIt is patterns like these that finally convinced me to do a pattern drafting course. I have vowed never to buy another commercial pattern!
ReplyDeleteI hear you, Jo. I learned pattern drafting in the mid 80s. At the time, I thought I would draft *all* of my patterns. But I soon realized that, while I liked the patterns I was drafting, that my sewing output was greatly reduced. It's a lot of work and I decided I'd rather start with patterns and alter from there. Of course, altering patterns takes a lot of time, too, but I love developing a stable of TNT patterns that I can play with. (I lost most of my TNT patterns when I lost 40 lbs, so I am rebuilding.) But I always get excited by patterns that are really new and unconventional - something I might not have the skills to draft or that uses an approach that wouldn't have thought of. That gets my motor running!!!
DeleteI am really really very surprised that you don't consider drafting everything yourself! It is really not that difficult, and it comes ALWAYS in your size. You even don't have to explore patterns, but the whole world of fashion is open for inspiration. And it saves LOTS of money!
ReplyDeleteYes, that is true. But see my response to Jo, above. :)
DeleteGreat commentary! I will have to write my post about the McCalls Focus Group soon!!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Kyle! I would be interested to hear more!!
DeleteGreat review! Thanks, Shams. I agree totally other than I really like the Koos coat and would be tempted to give it a shot.
ReplyDeleteI do like that coat but I carry my weight in my bust and belly. That means that designs like this one can be unflattering. I think it would be more flattering on your silhouette - while you are on the shorter side, you are overall petite. I think it could look great on you! And it is so darned interesting!
DeleteFunny thing about the men's pattern: I made this exact men's robe for my husband about15-20 years ago. So long ago, anyway, that I don't really remember. Looks to me like the very same pattern with new envelope art. I guess you could call it a classic; my husband still wears that robe, which I made in a beautiful Viyella fabric. But disappointing, as everyone has said, that there's nothing new for men.
ReplyDeleteExactly! There is nothing wrong with the robe pattern, per se, but it's been done to death. If you are going to dedicate only ONE pattern to men in a collection, make it interesting! And keep the *last* boring robe you made in the pattern book, but don't bring out a new one! It was another wasted opportunity.
DeleteAs usual, Vogue comes up with a pretty disappointing ho-hum collection. There is very little there that I would even need to buy, it is all so close to patterns I have
ReplyDeletein my stash. The wrap shrug is cute, but really, is a pattern even much needed.
Marcy has her own sort of style but I have to say, that one is one of my least favorites. I appreciate the seaming, but find that it looks really like an ill fitting top. Falls in the "just because you can, doesn't mean you should" category for me. As to coats..wow, can't even give folks a good staple type option with a lining for winter? I just picked up Vogue 8862 and am looking at option C, a little more detail than the new one offered and lined!
You are quite right about the wrap, of course. There is very little drafting going on, but I will still buy a pattern like that, for a few bucks, if it's cute or done well. (I wouldn't buy it at full price.) Marcy's vest (and Marcy's aesthetic) is certainly not for everyone, but I adore that vest and can't wait to make it up. I love 8862, Marcy's coat, and made it. While it is loose and unfitting, it has some nice detailing and I don't ask my raincoats to be fitted. :D
DeleteI find it so frustrating to see these dated, staid patterns being churned out over and over again. The sewing community, both on and offline, is so fresh and vibrant these days, and yet the Big 4 (or should that be the Big 1 these days) really isn't keeping up with things. Add to the fact that we in the UK don't get the amazing sales you do in the States, and it adds up to an easy decision not to buy very many of these patterns.
ReplyDeleteI recently reviewed a multi cup pattern and found that approach to be innovative. If only they could translate that into fresher designs and more flattering garments. Perhaps enough voices speaking will help them to hear.
I utterly agree with your first paragraph! I am not a huge fan of the multi-cup patterns. First, I find it a pain to have to move the dart. yes, you can do it, but it's a pain. Second, what if you are *bigger* than the largest provided size? You STILL have to do an FBA!! So, rather than moving AND increasing the bust, I'd rather just do an FBA from the get go in the size I want. Much less fuss, for me, at least.
DeleteOops! I forgot to say that I love the DK pants, too, but I'm going to wait until I see yours. So please make them soon! Also, can we just talk about the Guy Laroche number? I don't care if the couture police come and get me, but that is quite simply the dowdiest style I've seen for ages. Since the '80s, anyway.
ReplyDeleteOOOH, I HOPE I can make them soon!!! This sewing competition has me a bit frazzled. If I'm not out this week, there are two more weeks, so the end is in sight.
DeleteI was not enthused about the collection either...but do like many of the dresses. The Marcy vest would be so cute in a variety of fabrics-I actually like the fact that it is shapeless. I look forward to wearing it with a plain dress or tee/pants combo.
ReplyDeleteI can't wait to get my hot little hands on that number. :D
DeleteI love the two Marcy patterns as well, but I know that I am now wired to like her patterns. But they are seriously interesting, aren't they. Saw the vest at DOL - great! As for the others, I'll enjoy seeing those pants made up by you! As for the others, you're right. eh.
ReplyDeleteI don't think that we like Marcy's patterns because they are from Marcy. I think we like Marcy's patterns, because they are interesting, LIKE Marcy! :D And I will also admit that some of her patterns are not suited to me at all, especially when they aren't fitted below the bust or have seam lines right across the bust. But I really love Marcy's aesthetic and am SO glad that she and Katherine design for McVoguerick!
DeleteI totally thought of you when I saw the Donna Karan pants pattern last night! I'm really loving the Marcy Tilton vest pattern and, even though I'm not usually into accessories patterns, I love the pieced hat offering. I totally agree with the rest of your commentary on the patterns, especially the fact that all the knit top patterns are pretty close reruns of patterns we've already seen over the last year. All in all, I will purchase a couple of these but am disappointed by the lack of creativity in most. (And I had been waiting so anxiously for the new pattern release--what a let down!) Can't wait to see what you do with those pants!
ReplyDeleteThose pants!!!!!!!!! I love those pants, too! Make those ASAP so we can see them. I might have to buy that pattern when there's a good pattern sale :)
ReplyDeleteI always rely on you to review the new Vogues - you see details that I miss and I appreciate your candour. thank you.
ReplyDeleteThe Tilton vest I will buy to make my mom's Christmas present. We are similar shapes, but not exact so I'm sure that if I make it to fit me, it will fit her. I'm not a large output sewer, only a garment a month or so, so I only need a few great patterns per pattern release so I am happy. I think that the Vogue men's pattern collection as a whole is quite good. But yes, they should have left an old robe pattern in and given us something new and different.
ReplyDeleteLoved your fashion boutique ...so, nicely presented...that's the winter perfevt outfits !!
ReplyDeleteSo nice collection of designer tunics...loved it !!
ReplyDelete