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Monday, July 6, 2015

Mixed Fabric Button Front Shirt



Sometime last March, I bought a fabric panel from Marcy Tilton. It is long sold out, but the panel was featured on one of her patterns, Vogue 9108:

I mixed that panel with a rayon batik I picked up at the Corvallis Fiber guild meeting I attended last May, and with two quilting fabrics that I purchased at Puyallup Sew Expo (a cotton batik and a Japanese cotton print).

I sewed this fabric Bouillabaisse into Butterick 5526, view C. I started with a size 18, as per my upper bust, and made a few changes:

  • Added a back yoke
  • Added a 1-1/2" bust dart
  • Removed flare from the hip
  • Narrowed shoulder seam by 1"
  • Shortened sleeves by 1"
  • Split the single cuff pattern to use two fabrics
  • Added extra interfacing, in a crescent shape, to the back collar, as per this article. (Thanks to Margy for bringing this technique to my attention!)
Reinforcing the under collar

Finished collar

I used 2 types of interfacings, both from Fashion Sewing Supply: a medium weight fusible tricot (front bands, cuffs, upper collar, and inner stand), and ProWOVEN Sew-in Lightly Crisp Interfacing (under collar and outer stand). The textured black buttons were from stash.
Cuffs in process

mem commented that my stand-up collar had vampire overtones. <ahem>

Thanks to mem for taking these photos! After this week, mem is leaving Google and tackling new challenges. I'll still see her, but she won't be so readily available. Thanks again, mem, and all the best in your new adventures!

Butterick 5526
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59 comments:

  1. DillianderJuly 6, 2015 at 10:19 PM

    Well, the Butterick Bouillabaisse is a 'recipe for success'... can't see the vampire bit myself, then again its broad daylight here in Oz :)

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  2. Beth (SunnyGal Studio)July 6, 2015 at 10:20 PM

    Fantastic. What a great way to use and mix those fabrics.

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  3. Gayle OrtizJuly 6, 2015 at 10:27 PM

    Very cool combo, Shams. Looks terrific on you!

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  4. Su-zJuly 6, 2015 at 11:47 PM

    You did a beautiful job pulling all the different fabrics into a cohesive garment. I wish I could do that, but it never turns out quite so nice for me!

    The collar article link doesn't work for me, but maybe it's my internet connection.

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    1. shamsJuly 7, 2015 at 4:15 AM

      Thanks, Su-z! The link in the article was bad, but I believe I've corrected it. Thx!

      Delete
  5. memJuly 7, 2015 at 12:19 AM

    Love that its such a surprise to see the panel at the back . The collar info is great thanks.

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  6. MrsC (Maryanne)July 7, 2015 at 12:45 AM

    Oh I love this! I have plans to make multi fabric garmens and never get around to it - this is inspiring!

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    1. shamsJuly 7, 2015 at 4:16 AM

      Thanks, MrsC! Originally I planned to use only 2 fabrics, then I realized that the cotton batik would be a nice complement, but I used most of that fabric up when I made fabric beads, so I realized that the other Japanese cotton wold also work. It was kind of a happy accident!

      Delete
  7. VickiJuly 7, 2015 at 3:02 AM

    Fabulous! What a shame though you won't be able to see the amazing panel when you look in the mirror!

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  8. AnonymousJuly 7, 2015 at 3:32 AM

    It is both inspiring and EXCITING to view a garment of this caliber created by an individual. Thank you!! I tried to connect to the link about using semi-circular interfacing but got a message the page does not exist. If you could enable viewing by your readers, it would be appreciated. Thank you!!!

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    1. shamsJuly 7, 2015 at 4:17 AM

      Thanks, sewsincere! I hadn't included the link properly, but it should be fixed now.

      Delete
  9. mrsmoleJuly 7, 2015 at 3:53 AM

    Custom all the way and love the two-tone cuffs! Nice that you can make an impression coming and going and the fabrics all bland and highlight the car in the scene...just delightful. Thanks for sharing your collar channel stitching...we forget we can do that to beef it up.

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  10. pegsewerJuly 7, 2015 at 4:32 AM

    So this is the shirt you were working on this weekend.....it is really wonderful!

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  11. CarolJuly 7, 2015 at 4:43 AM

    Shams, I don't think I've ever come out of lurking on your blog before.....but this shirt has wowed me to delurk! Fantastic. Your eye for color, fashion, fit amaze me.

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  12. a little sewingJuly 7, 2015 at 5:06 AM

    gorgeous combination of fabrics.
    and it's black and red.
    I'd be careful about letting Margy anywhere near it!

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    Replies
    1. shamsJuly 7, 2015 at 6:32 AM

      Thanks, Robin! Luckily, Margy and I do not wear the same size. ;)

      Delete
  13. meJuly 7, 2015 at 5:27 AM

    Beautiful. Great combination of fabrics
    Marcia

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  14. MaryEllenJuly 7, 2015 at 6:01 AM

    Your combination of fabrics make for a stunning top. Love the cuffs. Did you interface the panel in any way as it was a rayon ? Always nervous to see cottons to other types but yours really works well !!

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    1. shamsJuly 7, 2015 at 6:33 AM

      Thanks, MaryEllen! No, I did not interface the panel - it's wonderfully drapey and flowy, and I would hate to loose that quality. I had no problems sewing the different types of fabrics together.

      Delete
  15. sewingkmJuly 7, 2015 at 6:08 AM

    I love your fabulous shirt. Wonder if it was difficult sewing rayon, poly (believe that was the panel) and cotton? Rayon has always been a favorite fabric of mine due to its lovely drape. I think it's interesting that I pick many of the patterns you sew before you make a post on them. It's probably because we have a similar body shape but it's still fun for me as I so value your creativeness! Karen

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    1. shamsJuly 7, 2015 at 6:34 AM

      Thanks, Karen! No, I had no issues sewing the different types of fabrics together. The poly panel did fray like crazy, but the raw edges were quickly encased, except for the bit at the armhole. But it really wasn't hard. Interesting that we choose the same patterns! :)

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  16. Linda TJuly 7, 2015 at 6:28 AM

    another winner, Shams! I would never have thought to use that panel the way you did. absolute genius!

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  17. MargyJuly 7, 2015 at 6:36 AM

    OMG...Robin is right, this shirt should be MINE! What a fantastic eye you have, to bring all these wonderful fabrics together is such a pleasing and surprising manner. And I love your placement of the panel...you are going to have a lot of head-turning as you walk away. Five-star success, Shams!

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    1. shamsJuly 7, 2015 at 7:33 AM

      LOL! Good thing you don't wear a smaller size, Margy! Thanks!

      Delete
  18. Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic)July 7, 2015 at 6:38 AM

    This is fantastic! I love the fabric choices you made, and I have 2 of those panels purchased from Elliott Berman. Your awesome new top just made me remember them! I know you're going to miss Mem cause personally I am. I love the pics she's taken of you and your garments.

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    1. shamsJuly 7, 2015 at 7:34 AM

      Thanks, Carolyn! I also have plans for the 2nd panel! Yes, I will miss hanging with mem SOOO much!

      Delete
  19. kathyJuly 7, 2015 at 6:45 AM

    Inspiring. And what they all said!
    Fifty Stars.

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  20. GlendaJuly 7, 2015 at 7:57 AM

    Brilliant, and I really love how you have so much fun with the photo shoots. Here's hoping you find someone you're as comfortable with to help you in the future!

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    1. shamsJuly 7, 2015 at 8:03 AM

      Thanks, Glenda! I suspect it will be back to just me and my tripod. :)

      Delete
  21. splendidcakesJuly 7, 2015 at 8:46 AM

    Business in front, party in the back!!! I love it so much! Really great combination of fabrics...ahhhhh...

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    1. shamsJuly 7, 2015 at 12:24 PM

      LOL. I almost used that name on this post. :) Thanks!

      Delete
  22. UnknownJuly 7, 2015 at 9:12 AM

    Thank you for sharing your latest amazing creation. How sad for us that Mem is moving on to a new adventure, but good for her! You two were a great photo duo. I am very grateful for your generosity in sharing your thought process and how-tos.

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    1. shamsJuly 7, 2015 at 12:24 PM

      Thanks, Mary Ann! mem is willing to come take photos when she's free, but it won't be as often. :)

      Delete
  23. LouisaJuly 7, 2015 at 9:28 AM

    Fabulous results as always, Shams! You've definitely put the focus on that panel - for others at least, even if you can't see it while you're wearing it!

    Wishing Mem all the best, but I'm sure you are going to miss your photography sessions. Wish I could find someone who could take mine. My husband has many admirable qualities but he is no fashion photographer! And it doesn't help that I'm not particularly photogenic at the best of times. Sigh.

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    1. shamsJuly 7, 2015 at 12:25 PM

      Thanks, Louisa! I hear you on the lack of a photographer! My kids used to take my pics, and that was fine for awhile. Then it became a burden to them and not fun for me, so I used a tripod with remote for years. I still use that, but it was a lot more fun with mem!

      Delete
  24. Katej841July 7, 2015 at 9:50 AM

    Love that, one of your best, in my opinion....

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  25. GracaJuly 7, 2015 at 11:25 AM

    Beautiful shirt with that digital panel added in--fantastic!

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  26. shamsJuly 7, 2015 at 12:26 PM

    Thanks, Ronin! And thanks for visiting! (I work closely with folks in Denmark, which isn't *too* far from there!)

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  27. Linda LJuly 7, 2015 at 5:13 PM

    I love that digital panel! Great looking shirt!

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  28. Claire RJuly 7, 2015 at 6:40 PM

    that is a totally fabulous shirt!!! I really love the collar! what a treat to see the way you put those fabrics together. . .

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  29. BunnyJuly 7, 2015 at 7:17 PM

    Fabulous. You definitely rocked this unusual fabric. Actually, that is your forte!

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  30. Stars ThreadsJuly 7, 2015 at 8:24 PM

    OMG! I have shirt envy! This is fabulous and totally your style.

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  31. Goodbye ValentinoJuly 8, 2015 at 3:51 AM

    Love what you did with the panel - you are so creative with your fabrics! that Butterick pattern is my favorite shirt pattern to date :)

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  32. Mary TJuly 8, 2015 at 10:11 AM

    Just leaving the Bay area, and while I was there prepared this pattern for when I get home to Boston to sew. Then at the airport opening up PR and there you are!! Love your interpretation, as well as the article on the collar treatment. I will use the size 18 to start, and wonder if I need to change the size of the template much?? I would really like to try this method, as I'm using a couple of different shirting fabrics and really want the undercollar contrast to show!!
    Have also started Dr Furhman's food plan - hard to follow travelling and visiting w grandbabies, so I'll be glad to get home. Thanks for all your inspiration Sharon.

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  33. AnonymousJuly 9, 2015 at 11:16 PM

    Nice. i was really impressed by seeing this sewing patterns idea, it was very interesting and it is very useful to me.

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  34. Anne-MarieJuly 10, 2015 at 5:17 AM

    Wonderful mix of fabric and talk about a great fit !! Superb shirt indeed !

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  35. WendyJuly 10, 2015 at 2:07 PM

    Love it, and you've inspired me to use one of those digital panels I keep buying but can't figure out how to use. And thanks for the collar technique--I hadn't seen it before.

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  36. Nancy KJuly 12, 2015 at 12:57 PM

    Great pattern mixing. Not my forte and I admire that you do it so well.

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  37. Fran GSeptember 13, 2015 at 4:07 AM

    Another home run! Your use of the fabric panel is brilliant!

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