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Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Swamp Green Mizono Top - Vogue 1246


It's not a coat!

I had an interesting double-sided fabric in a murky green color (swamp green!) that is, roughly, the color of my eyes. It features thin blue and burgundy ribbons inserted in rows. On one side of the fabric, the ribbons appear inside the circles; on the other side of the fabric, the ribbons appear in the background. I'm not sure which side is intended to be the right side and I can't figure out how this fabric was made. It was a fairly crisp fabric, until I washed and dried it, when it became wrinkled and gauze-like. It's a fairly fragile fabric and, I think that it is all (or mostly) costton.

Closeup of both sides of the fabric

It took me awhile to figure out what I wanted to do with it, but I finally decided to make it into this Lynn Mizono pattern, Vogue 1246, view A. Views A and B are quite different. View A has a modified-mandarin neckline that appealed to me, and sleeves have a very cool hem detail where there is a slit and one pointy corner is pulled up and over the other and fastened with a button and buttonhole. It is designed to be a wrap top with ties and it has an A-line shape that is quite wide through waist and even wider through the hips and hem. There are deep, asymmetric slits in both side seams. There are 8 mitered corners - four at the side seam hems and 2 on each sleeve hem.

Because I am busty, I find wrap tops annoying to wear, so I decided to convert the pattern to a button front. The size 8 (the smallest size) has a finished bust measurement of 44", so I cut out a size 8 (smaller than my usual size 10) and did a vertical-only FBA of 1-1/4", as I didn't need additional width.

Before removing 8" through the waist and 12" through the hips. (I am also wearing some older Style Arc pants that are now too big, but are sooo comfy that I kept them for knocking around.)

Once the top was mostly constructed, I decided I didn't like how loose it was through the torso, so I cut it down. From the side seams, I removed 8" at the waist and 12" at the hips which results, I think, in a more flattering look on me. Other than that, I didn't make any changes.

I also had an issue with the collar. The collar didn't lay as well on my neck as I would like. It needed to flare out a tad, but I would have had to deconstruct the top to replace the collar, so I decided to play with the styling. It lays well when folded down. It also lays better when the top is worn open, over a shell. If I make this pattern again (and I may) I will tweak the shape of the collar.

The pattern did not call for any interfacing, but I interfaced the collar and front facings. Another feature of this pattern is that all raw edges are finished. The shoulder seams are sewn with French seams. The side seams are folded under and stitched down, which I did by hand. The neckline and armscye seams are covered with self made bias binding. It makes for a very nice finish.

The top closes with 7 chunky, burgundy-colored buttons from Britex - 5 down the front, and one on each sleeve.

I like this top! I especially like the fit through the upper chest, which required almost no tweaking. I narrowed the shoulders by 5/8" which is far less than usual for a Vogue pattern. And I didn't shorten the sleeves at all, and they are perfect, also unusual for a Vogue. I wonder if it's because I made a size 8 and I am usually making a larger size...

I also love the sleeves with the unusual hem. The pattern is worth buying for the sleeve alone.

Here's a question for you. I have styled it differently in the next three photos. Which do you think is the best way for me to wear it?

Worn open over a shell
Worn closed, collar up
Worn closed, collar folded down. (It was breezy and foggy!)

Thanks for all of your feedback on my old, but classic, Montana jacket! I can't say what I will be making next, because I often change my mind at the last minute, but maybe a skirt or pants!

49 comments:

  1. Hi shams! First, just brilliant pairing of pattern and fabric, it so stunning yet not overwhelming on you - just perfect! And thank you for the close up of the sleeve hem, it's to drool for and just sold me on this pattern !

    well, i think that number one is the most *traditionally* flattering, but i like number two the best as i think it flatters your face shape and coloring, plus it seems to reflect your personality/style more than the others - a more unique, unexpected approach towards flattery. I especially like those earrings with it and no necklace, just as you've styled it.

    just my two cents. Enjoy your evening, you gorgeous thing you! :) steph

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  2. Worn closed, collar up. Very nice & well done.

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  3. Ah, a work of art! What glorious fabric, and what a talent you have in seeing the possibilities where some others see none. I like it best worn open over a shell.

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  4. All three styles are great, as is the pattern itself. What really caught my eye is the way you placed the center fronts to create the half circles. You rock.

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  5. I like View 2. This is wonderful on you and the fabric is so interesting

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  6. Beautiful! I like closed, collar up the best.

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  7. What interesting fabric - you have such a good eye in choosing fabric! I definitely like the collar up in styles 1 and 2. Agreed that the sleeve finish is worth purchasing the pattern. Your adjustments to the body of the garment are spot on as usual!

    Karen

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  8. Fab coat! I love the half circles at cf too. You rock at designing these amazing fabric - style garment matches.
    I first thought it looked best open but I also love view 2 for showing off the centre front and the collar style on you.

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  9. I like your top better than Vogue's views. I prefer the collar worn up. Is it comfortable that way?

    RE the fabric. Is it double woven (like double knit, only w/ looms)? Then they can pass the ribbon between the two layers.

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    1. Thanks, BadMomGoodMom! No, it is not double woven. It really is a puzzle.

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  10. Nice fabric! I like #2 although I can see why it bothers you. Not the traditional Mandarin collar but it does frame your face nicely

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  11. I agree with Steph re order of preference. It's a great jacket on you, and I think you were wise to get rid of a lot of the fullness. It now has a relaxed and flattering fit, a just-right body closeness.

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  12. Really attractive .. and well done. Where did you find
    that interesting fabric? it's so unique. I think #1 and #2
    are the best looks because the collar up looks sharp and
    stylin' .. and BTW your collar design is much better looking
    than the pattern pic. All the tweaks brought your unique
    magic to the whole for a very fashionable top.

    Joy

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    1. Thanks, Joy! I bought this fabric locally at Fabrix several months ago.

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  13. Wow...hard to choose from THREE fabulous looks... I'd say #1 and 2, but my own personal preferences come into play here. Fabulous outcome!

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  14. I like the top w/the collar up. But that fabric is so totally fabulous! And you look like a fabulous clothes diva! It just looks great. Sheesh!!! Good job!

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  15. I like the first way the best. The jacket open over the black top visually slims your top and lengthens your torso. The necklace is really catchy too!

    Love your jacket!

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  16. Wow I was definitely in the minority! I still stand by what I posted though. :)

    You honestly look great wearing it all three ways. I just like the first way the best.

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  17. I like the way you have altered this pattern - I have it and haven't made it up yet because it looks so voluminous. Your version actually looks very smart, and very flattering.

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  18. Wow! what cool fabric! and a great jacket!

    Rose

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  19. Gorgeous! I wouldn't have looked at the pattern, but now that I've seen yours, I want one! :)

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  20. Stylin' 2: closed, collar up, and that summer fog makes me miss SFO so! Another winnner, and such unusual fabric!

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  21. I like view 1 best and I LOVE the fabric!

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  22. Closed, collar up for me. But it's marginal; they're all good. This pattern is the sort of thing I missed in the latest Vogue collection.

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  23. I have this pattern in my stash. After seeing your version I am inspired to give this pattern a try.

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  24. Oh my goodness, when I saw swamp green I had to immediately open the blog:) made me remember this horrible movie I saw when I was maybe 3. I think the name of the movie was Swamp Thing. From then on I just knew that these creatures must be lurking in the murky waters of ponds and lakes alike. Now in no way does your top remind me of the movie, just the reference to the swamp. Funny how old impressions stick with you. This is a great top. Ironically, I like the pattern rendition and yours alike. Another great piece!

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  25. This top is truly you!!! Looks great on you and it is a very unique fabric.

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  26. Tunic! Tunic-style looks the best. Doesn't matter if I'm late at commenting (I'm on the other hemisphere-it's not my fault its the Earth!)-I'm the loudest so Tunic wins (right?). By tunic I mean closed, collar up. Man, you find some really unique fabrics-and the connected half circles down the middles is genius.

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  27. What a great pattern and I am amazed at how you can see past the line drawings to see how you want it to look. I like 1 and 2 - 1 being more casual.

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  28. Great jacket, Shams! Wow, removing the excessive ease turned this pattern into a stunner! I love it !

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  29. You look great in all three. Just choose how you feel on a particular day.
    I really disliked the jacket on the pattern front and would have never chosen it, but you have done wonders with it.
    You are an inspiration!

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  30. Amazing what a little restyling can do for a pattern. What a wonderful jacket! Love the sleeve detail... and the collar... and the hem.

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  31. Have to agree with the rest, worn closed collar up is for me! Has anyone else asked why the buttons are on the right side instead of the left?

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    1. LOLOL,Mrs Mole!! It would be you you to notice!!!

      Yes, when I lapped the right side over the left, I didn't like how the circles appeared. So I decided to try the other way and I loved it. I am left handed and I used to put buttons on the right side all of the time, by accident, but I have trained myself to do it "correctly", but in this case, it was intentional. (At least, it was intentional after the fact...)

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  32. Did the pattern have both a double and single breasted option, or did you change that yourself when you cut down the volume? I like your buttons up the front better then the tied version in the drawing, but I do not have the skill set to change it myself. You really made a terrific garment and I love-love-love the pattern.

    BTW, I like the collar up/unbuttoned styling.

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    1. Hi, Elizabeth! No, when I converted the pattern tissue to single breasted button front (instead of double-breasted tie front) I chopped it down. I did that before I cut the fabric out. It's quite easy to do. The Center Front line is marked on the pattern. I used a ruler to measure out 1-1/4" beyond and cut off the excess pattern. Do the same on the facing (though the Center Front isn't marked on the facing, so you have to match up the big circles). It is now single breasted. and will overlap by 1-1/4" after the facings are sewn on.

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    2. I was also wondering how you made that change. Thanks for the directions!

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  33. I like it closed with the collar up. But really, all the looks look fabu on you. That fabric is wonderful; I just love it. I so like what you have made lately!

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  34. That fabric is really nice. I like all three views that you styled it as, but that necklace in the first photo is gorgeous with that top! It goes perfectly with that top.

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  35. What beautiful details! You really have an eye for interesting patterns and you know how to change them for your style. I like the jacket closed. Given the loose fit, I didn't look twice at that pattern, but now I might seek it out for the collar alone!

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  36. Thank you for your blog. I have been reading for a while I love it! You and I have similar fitting issues, and it's great to see things on you and realize that could work of me as well. Your taste is perfect! Your clothes just seem to suit you, and I don't even know you. I like clothes that present a unique personality. I tend to go that way myself. We short, busty, no hipped women look too good to be camouflaged by drab ready to wear.

    I like the first presentation. The others are good as well, but open is best.

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  37. Wonderful top by the woman who finds the most incredible fabrics ever. My preference? Buttoned and collar up. I think it really flatters your face that way.

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  38. It's funny reading through all these comments...if you wanted consensus on which styling is best, I guess you're not going to get it! My favorites are #1 followed by #2. The way you've revised this pattern reminds me a bit of my favorite Miyake pattern from years ago (the tunic in Vogue #1664). I love the marriage of fabric to pattern and all the cool details on this one. By the way, in looking up the Miyake pattern number, I stumbled on an interesting site that shows all Vogue Miyake patterns in number order (http://groehm.tripod.com/miyake/). I love your new top and also loved getting a glimpse of San Francisco fog...I miss it!

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  39. Fabulous fabric paired with the perfect pattern and it looks wonderful on you! I vote for #1 because I enjoy seeing the contrasting color of the top.

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  40. I love the jacket from every angle!

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  41. I like option #1 best - I like the jaunty angle of the collar, I like the layers and I love that cool necklace on display.
    Great use of this fabric! And the pattern - I would have never noticed it, but your version has really highlighted the design. Now, I would love to own a version of this! Inspiring. AGAIN.
    :)

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  42. I just love that fabric. Perfectly suited to the pattern.

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  43. I’ve loved your last several posts – seems like your communing with fabric is going particularly well lately – but this one takes the cake. What a beautiful garment! And the color is so right for you.

    This pattern is at the top of my to-sew list, so I’ve been studying renditions of it. I think you win the prize for the most beautiful sleeves and the most beautiful fabric, Shams. SewRuth has a magnificent version of view B done in curtain fabric!

    There is something peculiar about the pattern. The placement of the button on Vogue’s photo of the garment puts it at about mid-bust but the Vogue sketch puts it higher, about even with the bottom of the armscye. Artful Home sells Mizono’s New Moon shirts online; these shirts, which surely are cousins of Vogue 1246, have armscye-level buttons. They also have wonderful collars that I am pondering deeply.

    I like picture #1 of your set but, hey, it’s all good. Please keep imagining more wonderful things!

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  44. I love that jacket. The details are phenomenal! You did a wonderful job. Keep 'em coming.

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