This binding detail was inspired by a top I saw in RTW. If you own a coverstitch machine or serger that can attach a knit binding, this detail would be easy peasy to construct. But even without a special machine, it's not that hard to do.
I started with a TNT pattern - the Renfew, which I've made here and here. This knit is not very stretchy in the vertical direction, so I sewed in the bust darts. (By the way, I used a version of the Renfrew where I raised the neckline a bit.)
The binding is first attached vertically to the front pieces. In the RTW garment, they then placed the fronts, right sides together, and sewed a scant 1/6th of an inch seam to attach them together. I assembled them a little differently: I abutted the bound edges and whipstitched them, by hand, from the back. Once the fronts are attached to form a single unit, then the shoulder seams are sewn and the neck binding is attached, leaving a gap of about 1".
I used a black rayon/lycra jersey for the binding and I cut the strips 2" wide. I folded them in half, the long way, with both raw edges together, and sewed them to the front with a 1/4" seam. I then wrapped the folded edge around to the back and hand-stitched it in place. This makes a nice, beefy, double binding. If you have a thicker fabric, you might prefer a single binding.
I purchased this fabric last May at Santa Fe Fabrics when visiting Santa Fe, New Mexico. This printed knit is slightly crinkled and has what can only be described as a perforated texture. Very interesting.
Unfortunately I did have one mishap during construction. When serging the armscye seam, I caught the sleeve fabric in the serger blade.
Luckily I had enough fabric to cut another (slightly shorter) sleeve, but I was already thinking of a plan B and C in case that wasn't an option. (Plan B - solid black sleeves. Plan C - some sort of elaborate patch/seaming.)
For the last two days, I've been using my long walks to head to the mall. On Friday I walked to Union Square in downtown SF, and yesterday I walked to my local mall, also in SF. I just love checking out designer RTW and the fall fashions are arriving! Woot! Fall is my favorite time of year, fashion-wise. My mojo is flowing and I wish I had more time to sew!
And, just for fun...
I really like this top. The "V" is different and reminds me more of a keyhole.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Dorothy! Yes, it is reminiscent of a keyhole neckline and I almost called this a keyhole detail, but I didn't because the shape is a bit different. It's quite easy to do and adds a very flattering vertical line!
DeleteThe old "serger ate my sleeve story"! This is a cute top. I like black and white on you with your red hair, nice look.
ReplyDeleteI like this a lot! And it looks terrific on you.
ReplyDeleteLove the fabric, style and fit. Looks great on you!
ReplyDeleteI, too, have red hair and stay away from black & white prints staying with warmer colors. Maybe I should give B&W a try. Love your top and execution. I also love how you often use hand sewing on your garments. They do add a nice touch and good control.
ReplyDeleteKaren
LOVE everything about this top! And it looks great on you. I was thinking of you today while hiking up a hill (not intended as exercise; I just needed to get somewhere!)...I need to start doing long walks.
ReplyDeleteLove this top, simple but very effective, now to improve my relationship with my knitbinder!
ReplyDeleteI think my mojo just received a transfusion, it seems to be waking up a little. Thanks! You look terrific, such a nice detail for the t shirt.
ReplyDeletevery cool piping, i am filing that one away for future reference!
ReplyDeletefabric color combination and pattern is good Beacon Hill Fabric
ReplyDeleteNice job!
ReplyDeleteThis top is absolutely fabulous!
ReplyDeleteThis is such a lovely top-I like the B/W (of course) and the opening is sophisticated.
ReplyDeleteWonderful take off of a RTW style...very flattering with that cool vertical line...
ReplyDeleteClassy, elegant top. You did good!
ReplyDeleteLove this idea, Shams. Very flattering.
ReplyDeleteI love this RTW detail.
ReplyDeleteSo easy to execute, so flattering.
I like everything about this top, Shams. A question, if you have time. What's it like to work with a textured fabric? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Sandra! I had no problems at all working with this textured knit. It was very easy to sew.
DeleteAh, I have seen a similar feature on the shoulders of a rtw boat neck top recently and being possibly a little unimaginative I was unsure of how to reproduce it, whip stitching the back is such a good idea! I love the neckline feature how you did it, too.
ReplyDeleteI really like the detail the binding adds. Very slimming lines, too. The print is a good one for you. The top looks great on your bod!
ReplyDeleteWhat a fabulous top! I love the print and the neck detail. You look great in it!
ReplyDeleteGreat top!
ReplyDeleteI always enjoy seeing your sewing projects, Shams. This top is a real winner for you. Thanks too for posting the "very tall guy" photo. I love its quirky vibe.
ReplyDeleteDusting off my coverstitch now! Great top. I could see it also with an Alabama Chanin-style handwork. Maybe backstitch the bindings on the front and then featherstitch together or something.
ReplyDeleteLove your top, Shams. Very flattering on you. I can empathize with you regarding the serger/sleeve incident!
ReplyDeleteFrom Creative Hormone Rush:
ReplyDeleteZehr cool! And you always look so happy when you're wearing black and white. The color combination definitely is dramatic on you and really pops your face.
I love the fatter piping on this. I amused myself by imaging you did just ONE of the sleeves slightly shorter, haha. Maybe that was plan D (snort).
ReplyDelete