Fabric Goodness - Enabler Alert!

Thanks for all your kind comments on my last couple posts. In the comments here, on SG, and on PR, there was some serious coveting of the fabric I had used in my Teagarden T. I bought the lightweight rayon/lycra from Emma One Sock several weeks ago and she no longer has any in stock. But one of my readers managed to find what looks like the same fabric at Mood.

Thanks, Carol in Denver, for letting me know about it!

When I went to their site to nose around, I found two other fabrics that seem to be a similar print, but in different color ways. (I'm not saying they are identical to the original fabric, but they seem very similar. Also note that the first fabric may not be identical to mine, but it sure seems similar.)

Clicking each fabric takes you to the corresponding page on the Mood Fabrics website. As usual, I have no affiliation.

FR259083

FR25736C

FR29845C

Vogue 8499 - Brussels Washer Linen Pants

A few months ago I bought three coordinating pieces of Brussels Washer Linen from Dana Marie Design. Brussels washer linen, made by Kaufman, is a 55% linen, 45% rayon blend. I had heard good reports of this fabric, which wrinkles less than a 100% linen. I decided to use the natural-colored piece for a pair of pants that I had made before: Vogue 8499, one of Marcy Tilton's pants.

I've been wearing the first pair a lot lately, and the pattern screams summer to me. That first pair, made with a floaty, drapey Taslan fabric, was great in this design. If you recall, the pattern is quite oversized and I went down many sizes, making a size 6 - it was perfect in the Taslan.

The first pair I made in March, 2010

This pattern is not perfect in the linen/rayon blend, at least not in the size 6. It's too stiff, which I should have realized up front. As a result of the stiff fabric, these pants are less flattering. The pattern is great, but it needs a fabric with more flow and drape, or I need to remove more fullness.

I will still wear these, but any ideas of what to do with the other two pieces of Brussels Washer linen? :) I do like its softer wrinkles, it's just beefier than I expected.

Alterations and Modifications

The only change I made to this pair was to lengthen them about 3/4" - the last pair seemed a tad short. If I were to make these again out of a similar fabric, I would remove additional fullness through the back hip.

This is the third garment (out of seven) that I made this last weekend. Stay tuned for more reviews. :)

Detail of topstitched knee darts and front seam

StyleArc - The Linda Stretch Pant

More pics

Have you heard of Style Arc patterns yet? This Australian-based pattern company is quickly gaining popularity, thanks to the internet.

I first became aware of them when, mere days after the royal wedding, they were offering a knock-off of the Pippa dress. You know the one:

I have to say that I loved Pippa's dress much more than Katherine's. :)

Not interested in making the Pippa dress, some of their other offerings caught my attention. Folks were starting to order a few of their patterns to test them out, with very favorable results. For example, Ann of Gorgeous Things, made up the Cruise Club Kim dress and the Creative Cate top, which was May's freebie pattern. The general consensus is that the Style Arc patterns are drafted the way RTW is drafted and that they fit much better than the Big 4, from the get-go, with less "extra" ease through the upper chest, for example, and a more RTW-like crotch curve. You can read more StyleArc pattern reviews on the PR website.

I was particularly interested in the StyleArc pant offerings. Despite the high cost of shipping to the U.S., I ordered several pant patterns, a couple jacket patterns, and I also received the June freebie, a camisole pattern.

The Style Arc patterns come in one size only, though the range of sizes they offer is quite large. These patterns are hand drafted and do not use multi-sizing and so, like the Italian Marfy patterns, you have to commit.

Australian sizing is different than U.S. or even European sizing, so you need to take your measurements and compare them against their sizing chart. But even then, I was not sure what to order as I don't know how generous their ease is and my waist, hip, and bust measurements each correspond to very different sizes. So, I started a conversation with Chloe at Style Arc, gave her my measurements, sent her to a picture of me on my blog, and we worked out that I should order a size 10 for bottoms and a size 16 for tops, with the understanding that I needed to alter for my waist and bust. (She even checked the ease on the jackets I wanted - such great customer service!)

When my package arrived (via Kansas City, for some reason, where the envelope was torn in transit, and then taped up again and stuck into a plastic baggie), the patterns were intact, thank goodness. The pattern paper is similar to Kwik Sew pattern paper - fairly substantial. I have not yet seen a pattern piece that requires that you lay it out on the fold. So you get the entire front, for example, and the entire back. That is very handy when matching prints or plaids, or cutting on the bias. But what I liked most, is that for each pattern, they enclose a small swatch of the recommended fabric. It's tiny, but it's much better than nothing.

The Linda Stretch Pant

I decided to start with the Linda Stretch Pant, which is a fitted pull-on pant for stretch wovens. They recommend a stretch bengaline, which is almost impossible to find in the U.S. and, thanks to the enclosed swatch, I discovered that it is not a particularly stretchy fabric. I had some fabric in my stash from Fabrix that I though would be a good substitute. (Some enterprising Aussie might want to try selling some stretch bengaline on Etsy, which is widely available in Australia in different colors and a couple different weights. I'd buy some!! :) )

Since the size 10 was based on my hip measurement, I knew I would have to enlarge the waist, but I was not exactly sure where/how much, so I decided to forge ahead and make the pattern as designed, adding a bit at the side seam. Oh, these patterns use 1cm, or 3/8", seam allowances.

These pants sewed up quickly!

Materials:

• A stretch woven wool blend (?), gabardine (?), dark taupe fabric from Fabrix. I love this fabric and almost hated to use it as a test, but I have enough for another pair of pants or two and I have already used it for a pair of Sewing Workshop Trio pants that I love. So I put on my big girl panties and forged ahead.
• 1" waistband elastic. The pattern calls for 2" waistband elastic, which is optional.

Construction Notes:

• I added another 3/8" to the side seams, for a total 3/4" seam allowance, but cut the rest of the front and back pant out as designed. Their construction notes utilize RTW techniques and instruct you to sew the inside leg seams first, so I did not add more seam allowance fabric there. You then sew the crotch seam flat, using their stretch woven techniques - these were new to me, but seem to work quite well. I then pinned the side seams and tentatively tried them on. They fit quite well! Yes, the pants were a bit snug through the belly, and there was a bit of muffin top, but nothing I am not used to in RTW. The rise and crotch curve were perfect!
• I did not use the shaped waistband that came with the pattern. It was far too small for my waist. I used a rectangular waistband, as I always do. If you have a waist that is smaller than your hips, I'm sure the shaped waistband would be great.
• I very slightly tapered the pants at the knee. To be honest, I would probably omit tapering next time.
• I shortened the pants by 1", so I would assume that these patterns are drafted for someone who is around 5'6".
  

Conclusion:

That's it! For me that is minimal changes, especially for such a fitted pant. These pants came together so fast and I love the fit! Yes, they do feel very much like a good pair of RTW pants. It's hard to believe that there is no zipper, especially since this stretch woven is not that stretchy, but they are so comfortable! Next time I make them (and there will be a next time), I plan to enlarge the waist a bit to avoid the muffin top, though it really doesn't need much tweaking. :)

Another Teagarden T

My top is also new - one of the six things I made last weekend. I can't remember exactly how many Sewing Workshop Teagarden T's I have made, but it's approximately ten. I love this pattern – it is my go-to t-shirt. For this one, I used a lightweight rayon/lycra knit from Emma One Sock. I just loved the wild print. Also, because the fabric was so wide, I was able to lengthen it a couple of inches, which is a nice change. The first Teagarden T that I made, the one from a black rayond/lycra blend, is starting to wear out. I need to make another black one, but it's not the most exciting sewing. :)

More Pictures

I LOVE this outfit. Love love love. These pants are so darned comfortable!!! So is the top and I just love the soft, lightweight rayon knit that just skims the body. UBER LOVE. :)

Blogger Meetup - Meeting Ann Smith!

I have been wanting to meet Ann Smith, an amazing and prolific sewist, for a long time now.

I first became aware of Ann when I returned to sewing (two years ago) because of her excellent reviews on Pattern Review. She and I love many of the same patterns and her versions are wonderful - she has a special ability to match patterns to fabric and to style her outfits in wonderful ways. I also soon became aware of (blogless) Dorothy K on PR, thanks to her excellent reviews. I managed to meet Dorothy in person, and a more lovely person you can't imagine, but she's so chic and stylish too. She's only been sewing for five years, and I don't think she ever has to alter a pattern, but I forgive her totally. Well, mostly.

Dorothy and Ann are longtime friends so Dorothy arranged for us to shop together when Ann was in town a couple months ago. On the day we were scheduled to get together, I came down with the plague and they were forced to shop and eat without me. I would have been more upset had I not spent most of the day in a near-coma.

Dorothy arranged another get together recently and this time, it all came together. Meeting Ann was like meeting someone I already knew. The three of us had a great day together, all arranged by Dorothy - she even fed us an amazing meal, while sporting her cool Sewing Workshop Tamari Apron. (I really do forgive her.) Later, we made it to the sale at Thai Silks and did a bit of nearby snoop shopping

One of our big topics of conversation was the task of taking good photographs for pattern reviews. We all find it challenging and I shared that when I recently met my blogging friends back east, they went on for a considerable length of time at how I look better in person than in my photos. A colleague once told me that I don't even look the same as I do in my photos, but that I look good in my photos. Huh? Given that I work hard to take the best photos possible, I am not sure what to make of these comments. :)

But all in all, it was a perfect day.

There are no pictures of all three of us, because someone had to take the photos. I didn't even think to bring my camera, but luckily Ann had hers, no doubt planning to capture the shenanigans of her grandbabies. You know, I forgive her too. ;)

Ann is enjoying Dorothy's spread. Dorothy and husband grew most of the salad fixings.

Me and Dorothy

July 4th Sewcation

Thanks to Carolyn for the "Sewcation" term. :) For me, this is a 3-day weekend with no obligations or diversions.

And the mojo fairy made a little visit.

It's been like a one-person retreat!

I haven't wanted to stop sewing this weekend to blog or take pictures, but I am taking a quick break this Sunday evening for a little update. Since Friday evening I have made:

• A pair of pj bottoms.
  
• A silk organza OOP Burda top.
  
• A pair of Style Arc Linda pants.
  
• A pair of Linen Tilton pants (Vogue 8499).
  
• A Teagarden Tea from an Emma One Sock rayon/lycra knit.
  
• Another pair of Loes Hinse Cruise pants - these were a wadder!
  

I think the wadder told me it was time to take a break. :) It earned the status of "wadder" because of the horrible fabric, not because of the pattern. When I bought the fabric, I was so entranced by its pattern and texture, that I neglected to notice the awful quality. It is that horrible cheap-o polyester that would be good for making pot scrubbers. I think I have enough fabric to make 500 pot scrubbers. At least I didn't waste my time making the circle pocket I had originally intended and only spent 30 minutes on the entire project.

I contacted Martha, the winner of the Marcy Tilton purse pattern giveaway and she is happy to have the pattern. I have prepared it for mailing, but not yet gotten to the post office. I hope to get it out next week, Martha!

One thing I wanted to mention in the bag post and then completely forgot is a wonderful book that I consulted when working on the project. The Bag Making Bible is a great resource. I read through various sections before starting the purse. I didn't use any of the techniques for this project, but there were good techniques, well documented. I look forward to using the book in future projects.

What Next?

I need to decide what to work on next. How to use the Monday holiday, my last free day? I have some fabrics I really want to sew up, but can't quite seem to settle on a pattern. (Don't you hate that?) I've been enjoying quick projects, using mostly tried and true, or simple, patterns, so maybe I should start a larger project, or tackle one of my UFOs. (I don't have too many, but there are a few.) But it has been so nice to work through some stash.

Well, for the remainder of my evening, I think I'll work on the other pair of pj bottoms that are cut out.

Happy 4th!! (If you celebrate, or Happy Monday, if not.)

Loes Hinse Cruise Pants w/ a Funky Pocket!

Oops, I am a bit rumpled.

More pictures

For awhile now I've been wanting to reproduce a pocket detail I've seen in boutique ready to wear - a big round funky pocket. For my first attempt, I started with a pant I'd made twice before, Marcy Tilton's Vogue 8712 made from, you guessed it, black ponte. You can see that version in the pictures below.

It was not quite right. The pocket was too big for the pant leg and the pant leg needed to be looser for the pocket. It's wearable, but I'm glad I didn't use special fabric for the first pair.

I searched for a better pant pattern to start with, but it was tricky. Most of my TNT pant patterns have been fairly fitted through the thigh and I needed something looser. The pant that does fit me loosely through the thigh (which is why I use it so often for PJ bottoms) is the Louise Cutting One Seams, but those pants have no side seam. I asked Louise, via Stitcher's Guild, if I could add a seam on the pant, but she recommended against it, so it was back to the drawing board. (It's nice that she monitors the threads on SG that pertain to her patterns and she is very responsive to any questions or issues.)

A friend then reminded me that the Loes Hinse Oxford pant has a nice relaxed fit and a side seam. I spent probably two hours searching, but I could not find my copy of the pattern. I obviously never put it back after using it several months ago. Rats.

In my search for the Oxfords, I came across the Loes Hinse Cruise pant, which is more tapered at the ankle than the Oxford, but the thigh looked like it had a nice relaxed fit. Deciding to try this pattern, I traced off an XL because I was using a woven fabric for this version and I wanted to make sure I could sit down in these comfortably. :)

The fabric I used is a heavyweight, slightly crinkled, homespun cotton. I bought it in Healdsburg at Fabrications after a retreat last March. (Fabrications is a great store that caters mostly to quilters, but does have some nice non-quilting fabric, like Brussels Washer Linen and silk brocades. It's located in charming downtown Healdsburg which has lots of great shopping and restaurants!)

This fabric is the sort of thing you'd want to use if you were making peasant wear for the Renaissance Faire. ;) I really like it.

When cutting out the pants I realized that, even for the Cruise pattern, the pocket was too big. I finally had a D'OH moment and I tilted the bottom of the pocket pattern several inches outward at the side seam to make it smaller, while retaining the opening size at the top of the pocket. I also placed the pocket lower on the leg so it won't be covered by a longer top.

So, here is version #2, with a smaller pocket. :)

Materials:

• Brown homespun cotton from Fabrications.
  
• Waistband elastic.
  

Alterations and Modifications:

Many sewists on Stitcher's Guild cite the Cruise Pant as their favorite Loes Hinse pant. This is saying something since there are many ardent fans of her pants patterns (and her designs in general). Her patterns are designed, by and large, for drapey woven fabrics, especially rayons. They work best in drapey fabrics with some "heft" to them, so silk is not always the best choice, unless it is a 4-ply silk, or a silk burnout, or something along those lines with some weight to it. However, the pattern does say it will work with linen and cotton, so I decided to run with it.

Loes's skill is in drafting her patterns so they really work for women, especially women with maturing figures. For example, the Cruise pant has an elastic waist, and it has darts in the back, but not the front. For those of us with fluffy tummies, this is excellent. When I saw the crotch curve on the Cruise pant, especially on the front crotch, I knew I was in good hands. It has a shallow front curve, similar to Burda and very similar to my TNT crotch curve. I decided to use the curve straight from the pattern. (I usually trace my crotch curve onto a pants pattern from the get-go.)

I made no alterations! I cut out the XL, which is larger than I would ordinarily use, but this version uses a woven and I wanted a relaxed fit. If I make this pant again, in a ponte, for example, I would trace off a large or maybe a medium. By the way, her patterns use 3/8" seam allowances, so take note.

Construction Notes:

• For my first pair of pocket pants, using Vogue 8712, I cut the hole for the pocket about 4" below the raw edge at the waistline. This placed the pocket too high up and it actually "bumped" into the waistband. For this pair, I cut the pocket hole 9.5" below the raw edge at the waistline. I could have placed it a bit higher, but I wanted the pocket to show, even when I'm wearing a long top.
  
• These pants came together so quickly. In one evening I traced the pattern, cut, and sewed the pants entirely, except for the hems. The pockets were the most involved part of the process and they weren't that bad.
  
• The pattern allows for a 1.5" hem, and I used a 2.5" hem (approximately) so they were a tad long for me. I usually have to shorten pants patterns, so this is normal.
  

Conclusion:

I am really happy with my pants! I hope to get lots of wear out of these. And, while I love all my black pants and wear them all the time, it's nice to branch out a bit. :)

Pants #1 - Marcy Tilton Vogue 8712

Here you can only see the silhouette of the pant, but I sure like these Marcy pants!

Pants #2 - Loes Hinse Cruise Pant

Burda 3251 - The "Shuffleboard at 2pm" Tunic

I mentioned in my last post that I've been unfocused lately (mostly distracted by work) and it's affected my sewing. Seriously, what is UP with me? Apparently I am sewing for my alter ego and my alter ego is my grandmother-on-a-cruise. (Though both of my grandmothers passed long ago and neither one ever got anywhere near a cruise ship, but you get my drift...)

This is a long out-of-print Burda, but I really liked the silhouette and I thought it would work for me. Maybe it still would work for me in another fabric. Or a shorter length. Or worn with leggings. This is a fairly fitted top and I liked that. The button front is open below the waist and there are side slits. I like all of the above. Or so I thought.

I started with a size 16 (42) and altered the heck out of it. I usually start with a larger size, often a 20, but this time I decided to use my actual high bust measurement (42") and go from there. I think that did work well and I should do this more often.

The fabric is a pleated rayon that I bought at Yardage Town in San Diego last July. I intended this for a skirt that I drafted a couple years ago. I'm kinda sorry I didn't save it for that project. :/ This fabric is very stretchy (due to the pleating) and very unstable in the selvedge-to-selvedge direction. It also ravels easily and is very wiggly. And, of course, because it's a stripe, I had to match the pesky stripes. (It would be so much easier if I didn't like striped and plaid fabrics so much. :)

Materials and Notions:

• Pleated striped rayon fabric from Yardage Town in San Diego.
  
• Coordinating solid cotton for the facings, from Fabrix.
  
• 4 7/8" buttons from Fabrix.
  
• Twill tape to stabilize shoulder seams.
  
• Fusible tricot interfacing for facings, also from Fabrix.
  

Alterations and Modifications:

• This pattern has a dart and it actually pointed to the right place on me! (Wow, that never happens, though using a smaller-than-normal pattern size did raise it up a bit.) The dart was too long and too small, so I did my usual FBA, AFTER chopping the bottom of the pattern off. After the FBA I re-attached the two pieces, so the hip was not modified.
  
• I lengthened the sleeves to below elbow length.
  
• I shortened the shoulders by 1/2". Usually I have to shorten the shoulders by 1" when I'm using a larger size.
  

Construction Notes:

• I stabilized the shoulder seams with twill tape cut to the length of the shoulder seam on the paper pattern.
  

  

  Stabilized shoulder seam and contrasting facing.

• I did not want to use the same pleated fabric for the interfaced facings, so I use a coordinating solid blue fabric. It's a cotton "linen-like" blend. I have enough to make some coordinating pants. :)
  
• I used 4 buttons that were larger than what the pattern called for. I found them in the giant button bin at Fabrix where you can buy 100 buttons for $5, but you have to sift through them to find matches. I used four buttons in three different shades of blue. Just for fun. You can see them in the pattern picture below.
  
• I matched the stripes as well as possible. It wasn't entirely possible. For example, look at the picture below, where I am twirling. See how the stripe tilts down just below the armscye. This is because of the mammoth 6" bust dart. I matched the stripe at the top of the sleeve, at the CB, below the dart at the side seams, etc.
  

  

  Twirling exposes the stripe matching and the effect of the large dart (just below the armscye).
  

• After the top was mostly completed, I tweaked the fit and removed even more width from the hip. I have started pinning the bust dart right on my body and, wow, does it improve the fit.
  

So, what do you think? I will wear this top, I'm sure, and maybe it will grow on me.