Saturday, January 22, 2011

Vogue 8712 - Marcy Tilton Pants

I ordered Marcy Tilton's new patterns in the recent BMV sale. They arrived yesterday (Friday). I opened the mailing envelope at 11pm and was cutting fabric at midnight. I was a little obsessed about making these immediately - I needed quick project!

What Size?

There was one teeny problem. I wasn't sure which size to order as Marcy's pants sometimes have more design ease and sometimes less. This pattern comes in two multi-size groupings: 8-14 and 16-22. According to Vogue, a size 16 has a 40" hip. I have a 40" hip, so I ordered the larger pattern. But when I opened the pattern tissue for View C, I saw that the finished hip on the size 16 is 46". This is larger than I like to wear, particularly in a knit, even a stable knit like a ponte.

I really wish Vogue would tell us the finished measurements in this situation, so we know which multi-size grouping to buy. I would have purchased the smaller size if I'd known this little tidbit.

I proceeded to alter the pattern. In my case, I transferred the crotch from my TNT pants pattern, so I know that the crotch will fit me without tweaking. I planned to pin fit the pants in the fashion fabric to remove excess at the hips.

I finished cutting out the pants and went to bed.

When I woke up at 6am this morning, I was eager to finish these pants. I told myself I couldn't leave the house to hit some enticing sales until I'd finished, so motivation was high. Besides transferring my crotch curve, I had eliminated the fly front and zipper. Did I mention that I really needed a quick project? I started sewing around 6:30am or so and quickly fell into the groove of stitching and top-stitching - I enjoy me some good top-stitching.

Unfortunately, in my eagerness to finish, I forgot to pin fit the pants. Oops.

After they were constructed and before I attached the waistband, I realized my mistake and added two additional darts in the back, taking out 1 1/4" (doubled) from the waist, tapering to nothing about 15" down, removing 5" of fullness in total from the waist/hip. I even topstitched the darts to make them look intentional. While this helped, the pants are still too large through the hips and need to be reduced another 4" or so.

I wanted to make these in something other than black. I have so many black pants and I'm feeling the need to branch out a bit, so I used a ponte I bought from Marcy Tilton in a color she calls Chestnut. It's a really nice fabric and very easy to sew. I *think* I prewashed it, but if not, I hope it behaves well. :)

I managed to finish the pants before 10am and to get a couple quick photos before running out the door. I do like the design very much, especially how the fullness nips in at the ankle.

Oh, I should mention that I didn't alter the length in any way. They are ankle length on me (at 5'5") but the pattern photo clearly shows them to be cropped, so be aware that they may run long. I love the long length, but shorter would have worked too, which is why I didn't worry about it in the alteration phase.

Before I make these again, I plan to grade the pattern down. Once I've tweaked it a bit, this will become a favorite pattern. I want to make View A/B as well.

I was so happy to complete a quick project - it's a nice change from the labor intensive projects I've been working on recently. And I will wear these a lot - they fit better than RTW pants I've bought in the past, but I've gotten more picky about fit since sewing my own clothing. :)

You can see in the back that there is too much fullness.

On the jacket front, I have two in process. I am waiting for my needle felting machine so I can finish the second one. I have more I can work on this weekend, though, since I need to fit the lining and sleeves. But beyond that, I am stuck until the machine arrives. I just may have to start jacket #4. :D


  1. Those pants are so YOU! You can wear edgy styles so well. Jacket #4? Wow. I'm still plugging away at my first one. I'm anxious to see what all you do with your needle felting machine. How fun!

  2. What a nice, quick project. I think when you get them fitted nicely, they will be perfect for you. You wear the funky stuff so well (I'm envious)!

  3. What great pants! What a fantastic color, too! Good call to eliminate the fly and zipper; I'd already decided to do that myself, figuring that all they added was bulk and fiddiliness.

    And I totally agree about wanting those finished measurements -- it's such a pain not to know when you're on the line between two multiple size ranges.

  4. Those look so cute on you! I didn't order them as I already have a couple pair of Marcy pants that I haven't made yet--I think the length looks nice. To me, crops are more for warm weather.

    I must have ordered my patterns at the same time--mine arrived yesterday.

  5. What great pants! Love the color and drape. My patterns arrived yesterday, so maybe I'll try the pants out this week. Thanks for "lighting the way"!

  6. These are really great on you! I thin you and Marcy have a vibe going on. I've gotten tired of wadders due to size variations and creative artwork. I'm collecting my finished measurements. I've been measuring the patterns as well as pinning them to my dressform. It does help.

  7. Looking good! Nice to know that true to Marci Tilton form there's the typical LOTS of design ease. I might get this next time Vogues are on sale at JoAnne's.

  8. If only I had an extra hours worth of time & energy every day (& weren't such a slow sewist...) I would SO love to join you in the 2011 12 jackets goal.

    luckylibbet I'll see in JoAnn's when the Vogues go on sale! (the 27th....I just hope they have the new ones in by then!)

  9. there is enough fit in the seat that these are very attractive from the back, even if they are not otherwise as fitted as you prefer. Nice color and bottom hem fit.

  10. Thanks for the size tip. I generally wear a 14-16 so would otherwise be stumped as to which grouping to buy. Your advice here is priceless.

  11. Fabulous pants, they suit you perfectly. Nice to know they run large - I won't have to make so many alterations ;)

    As always, your sewing projects are an inspiration.

  12. Love the pants and the suit well. I tried on something which reminds me of these in a boutique recently, but they did not have my size. More pattern shopping in my future.

  13. You said "I *think* I prewashed it, but if not, I hope it behaves well". I have a system with new fabric I bring in the house - immediately before washing and drying it, I run a line of serger stitching or zigzag along each raw end of the piece. That way if something in my stash doesn't have stitching at each end, I know I haven't had chance to wash it yet.

    It serves a double purpose with stuff that ravels, in that it washes and dries better with no loose threads to tangle up.

    Love the pants too.

  14. I just finally bought this pattern in this week's Labor Day sale after seeing it here and on Noile's blog. I just have to get some ponte, figure out exactly what size I should cut(?!), and get going. I think this will be a pattern I make more than once. Oh, and thanks for showing them in that red color, now that's all I can think about but unless I order online I'm stuck with what's at Jo-Anns.