(No, I did not make this silk jacket, I bought it second hand.)
I've been meaning to try this pattern since I bought it almost two years ago. Unlike some of the most recent Au Bonheur patterns I've made that use only 2 or 3 pattern pieces, these jeans require many pieces and I spent time translating the pattern and trying to get my head around the construction.
This pattern features top-stitching, contrast knee insets, front and back, front and back shaped yokes, a back patch pocket, front pockets with an inset vertical opening, a fly front and a contoured waistband. The front knee yokes and back pockets have darts to create unusual shaping. There is lots of top-stitching, some echoing seams and some more freeform/artistic.
I was unsure what size to trace off, so I finally decided to go with my hip size and I traced off a size 42, with no changes. I figured I could make any necessary changes after testing the pattern in black ponte. The alterations I made were minimal:
- Omitted the back pockets - though I plan to include them in my denim version.
- Omitted the fly front zipper - again, I plan to include this in the denim version.
- Replaced the contoured waistband pieces with a rectangular elastic waistband. Not yet sure how I want to handle this in the denim version.
- For the most part, construction was straightforward. However, when I sewed the front leg to the back leg, the pieces didn't match up. The front leg was approx 4" inches longer than the back leg. I chopped off the excess from the front hem and the resulting hem length was perfect for my 5'5" height. I could be wrong, but I think the pattern has a significant drafting error.
- Omitted the more decorative top-stitching.
The only problem I had with the finished pants is that the vertical front pockets tend to gape, as you can see in the second photo below. This is a phenomenon I've seen on men's pants and it does not flatter the hips to have pockets that gape as you move. (As you can see in the third photo below, they do not gape if I stand straight and still.) Short of omitting the front pockets, or employing some sort of closure, such as snaps, buttons or a zipper, is there some other way to handle this gaping?
Closeup of front vertical pocket
When I move, the pocket gapes
Standing straight, no gaping
Input is welcomed. :)
I was surprised how well these pants fit! They have a good fit through the crotch, which has not been my experience on previous Au Bonheur patterns.
The back doesn't look so great on the hangar, but fits quite well. You can see the back knee inserts and the back yoke.
More Tablecloth Skirt Goodness
In other news, Tablecloth skirt pics continue to arrive in my inbox. The most recent offering is Kathryn O's beautiful striped version:
This, and all versions, are available in the Tablecloth Skirt Gallery (link at the top of the page). Thanks, and keep those photos coming!
Pattern Pics
Love the width of the legs and they look very flattering on you. I wonder if that pocket gapes because you have used a knit fabric and the pocket is not supported enough? It may be that the denim fabric will work better? I used to make DHs knit trousers back in the 70s (yay me!)and I solved this problem by interfacing the pockets.
ReplyDeleteI did wonder if the fabric added to the problem. Thanks for that info, Pam!
DeleteWould you consider a little velcro in those pockets? Very interesting pant. Definitely "Shams" style. Can't wait to see the denim version.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Bev. No, I hate velcro, so that's out. Still thinking about a solution. :)
DeleteNice detailing on those pants (and I LOVE the jacket!) Pocket gaping can be a real head scratcher. I'm not sure it's just the knit fabric, because it's so prevalent on men's woven pants.
ReplyDeleteI don't know if it does any good, but I try to remember to place my pockets on the curve of a ham when I'm pinning them on, (so they match the shape of the body) and still pull the top of the pocket over a bit into the seam.
I'm still figuring it out, because I hate that pocket gape! I'll follow the comments here with interest....
On further thought, I do like Pam's suggestion to interface. The pants I make with stiffer fabrics (like denim) don't have nearly the issue that drapier fabrics have.
ReplyDeleteAck. I'm still not sure what I will do. But thanks!
DeleteOhhh, lucky me! I've been planning to make these pants forever now, and my procrastination means that they will have been Shams-edited before I take needle in hand.
ReplyDeleteThe elastic waist is an interesting idea. I'm going to eliminate the fly, since these won't really be "jeans" (though I'm making them of black denim), and I don't want the bulk. Those pockets mean that a side zipper is out, though, so I may have to do some serious re-thinking.
Interfacing the pockets might mitigate the gap problem, but, if not, could you live with invisible zippers? I think I'd prefer that to hook-and-loop that would irritate my hand constantly.
Or what about buttons? You have such a great touch with embellishment; maybe that's the way to go.
I know, Noile! I've been waiting for years for you to make these and iron out the problems for me! ;)
DeleteAnother Shams miracle pants pattern. You are absolutely fearless in testing these oddball things, and you make them look elegant and desirable.
ReplyDeleteWow, thanks TemporaryCat. :)
DeleteYou've done a great job with these pants. If those pockets are gaping on your slim hips (jealous) I can't even imaging what they would do on my more generous width.
ReplyDeleteIt looks like the pockets are set quite low. Are they too low to do a stay across the tummy to keep them flat? That's how I usually deal with this type of pocket.
Oh, your top is a great score. Nice outfit all around.
Yes, I should have mentioned that these pockets are *below* the front yokes. Thanks, Bunny. :)
DeleteI agree with Bunny. I think the pocket is gaping at the bend where your leg meets the hip. But because of the yoke you can't move it higher up.
DeleteI have really small hands so I've been known to reduce the opening considerably on inseam pockets. Also short arms so I raise the pockets as high as possible so I can reach them. Last time I made pockets in stretch fabric I stabilized the open edges with a strip of iron-on interfacing. These moves might help foil the gapping problem - at least somewhat.
They are very cute pants though, Shams. I like your version better than the one with all the contrasting topstitching which doesn't really appeal to me.
These pants look great on you, Shams. No help here with the pockets, sorry. I am so hippy, I won't even try on RTW with that pocket style. My solution is typically to omit them. ;)
ReplyDeleteThat's a crazy jeans pattern, but somehow you make it work. If you make some kind of stay where the pockets meet at the zipper then you should be able to avoid the gaping pockets. Great find on that jacket, BTW.
ReplyDeleteOh wow, I just adore that jeans pattern. They look just amazing with all that contrasting top-stitching! And once again you are tempting me to try locating another pattern....(covet covet)
ReplyDeleteI love your version, and they look both comfy and stylish. I wouldn't know what to do about the pocket gape either, being below the yoke. In a "regular" jeans pattern the pockets are high and slanted across the hip, and so not a problem, but these are vertical and so low that gape-age is just about a given! I agree with Pam's 1st comment, that maybe the denim ones will be fine.
Looking forward to seeing the next version!!
You make the most interesting pieces! I love the jacket you paired with the jeans...nice outfit!
ReplyDeleteFantastic pants, shams. I, too, think that the gaping is due to the softness of the ponte. How about including a channel for something like a collar stay or boning?
ReplyDeleteGreat job! and I love the Jacket!
ReplyDeleteRose in SV
Pants fitted great xx
ReplyDeleteVery interesting jean pattern. They definitely look great in the black knit. I can't wait to see them in denim. Will you use the reverse side of the denim on the knee yoke so that it is a lighter color?
ReplyDeleteWow - these look great - lots of detail .... very clever design.
ReplyDeleteI can't wear pants that call attention to my big legs (my mother used to call them my "Italian aunt legs"), but I love seeing the cool pants that you sew!
ReplyDeleteI love the pants theoretically. The killer for me is pockets that gap. Of course you look wonderful in them. I absolutely love your silk jacket though! That is a fabulous find. You look good in all the pants you make.
ReplyDelete