Miscellaneous Fun Stuff

When it comes to designing clothing, there are two basic approaches.

Pattern drafters work in two-dimensional space, on flat paper. This method for creating patterns uses simple math and requires some visualization skills to map from 2D paper to a 3D body. This approach is right up my alley. I have an engineering mind. I love math and am very comfortable in 2D space. In middle school, I even took (regular) engineering drafting classes, where I was one of two girls in a sea of boys.

Then there is the more sculptural approach of draping. In this approach, you drape fabric on a dress form or (if you are lucky) a person. To me, this is the sexy side of garment design. You can achieve effects in draping that would be impossible to figure out by pure pattern drafting alone. And, of course, as the rectangular shaped girl who longed for the Audrey Hepburn waist, and the girl with thin, plain "dishwater brown" hair that wanted long luscious red or black locks, I have always loved the idea of draping and wished that I had that sort of artistic mind. Back when I was taking classes at Cañada College, I took a full year of pattern drafting, but they didn't offer draping. (They do now!)

I have done some very limited draping on my body. For example, when I made my wedding dress, I draped parts of the bodice. Every time I fit a bust dart on my body, that is a form of draping. But it would be soooo much fun to do some real draping. (Of course, to do that I would need a dress form in my shape, but that's another matter.)

Anyway, Laurence King Publishing informed me about a new draping book that will be published in a few weeks. The book, Draping, by Karolyn Kiisel, looks intriguing. (And Laurence King certainly publishes some very impressive titles.) No one has offered me a free copy, but I have ordered one from Amazon. And I have signed up for a one-night class at Apparel Arts (and hosted by Britex) where Karolyn Kiisel shows how to draft an Audrey Hepburn dress. (I paid for that, too.)

I'm mentioning it in case any local peeps want to join me. The cost is $25, which seems fairly reasonable for the one-night event on September 19th. The following pic is clickable and takes you to the book on Amazon.

Artistry in Fashion

And, don't forget, Artistry in Fashion is coming on September 28th! I had to miss it last year so I am really ready to go. (That link takes you to a page where you can print out a $1 coupon against admission, though I don't mind paying full price because it's a reasonable $10 and it benefits their scholarship fund.) The guest speaker is Sandra Ericson of the Center for Pattern Design. They have been posting pictures from some of the vendors on their Facebook page and I can't wait!

Meetup

Last night I met up with BadMomGoodMom and Jilly Be for some vittles and tea in Hayes Valley (near downtown SF). (BadMomGoodMom already blogged about it.) Lots of good conversation ensued and I even met BadDad, who met up with us for a second round of dinner. BadMomGoodMom, a theoretical physicist who doesn't care for one of JillyBe's and my favorite TV shows, The Big Bang Theory, wanted us to make sure to mention that not ALL theoretical physicists are nerdy geeks and can, in fact, be pretty sexy. Point taken, though I personally am pretty geeky and relate to geeky types. ;)

I am trying to do some sewing this weekend, but I will be taking some time off today to shop with DD1. Originally my kids wanted to go to Golden Gate Park today to ride the surrey bicycles, but this is the weekend of the Outside Lands festival, one of the biggest musical events in the country. I am staying far far away from that part of town!

I hope you have a good one!

Pleated Pewter Raincoat - Vogue 8934

A note about Pam Erny.

The weather here in San Francisco, at least in my little micro climate, has been very fall like: foggy, overcast, chilly, and drizzly. I decided I was ready to make a raincoat! This pattern, Vogue 8934, is Marcy Tilton's new coat pattern which came out a couple weeks ago.

This pattern has a fairly simple silhouette with some nice features. It has a nice stand-up collar and 8 pleats at the hem to pull in the fullness. Another appreciated feature is that the pattern includes an optional lining - I didn't use it on this raincoat, but I could see using it on a wool version.

I had an unusual, double sided, pleated fabric that I wanted to use. It is matte black on one side - the black really absorbs light. The other side is a glittery pewter color. I decided to use the pewter on the outside.

I chose a size small, because the finished measurement for the bust is 44" and my bust is 41". I didn't want to add width, so I did a vertical-only FBA, intending to sew a dart in the side seam. The pattern tissue came to my knee, so I added 6" in length.

Because the fabric is highly pleated, I treated it as a knit and stabilized the shoulder seams and neckline with twill tape. I finished the inside seams by hand, as I didn't want to top-stitch this very sproingy fabric.

I also didn't want to sew buttonholes in this fabric, so I used 4 size 24 snaps from SnapSource in Antique Silver. I also decided not to use the inseam or patch pockets - I wanted to interrupt the columnar design as little as possible - so I put one of my 3D bellows pockets on the inside; it's made from a lining-type fabric with embroidery along one selvedge. I used this same fabric on the hem and the sleeves.

These inside bellows pockets are becoming my trademark!

I intentionally left the sleeves long so I could fold them back and show the reverse side of the fabric. I also sewed the inside collar and the inside front bands so that the black side would be visible when the front is worn open.

I didn't want to use fusible interfacing on this fabric, and the only sew-in interfacing I had on hand was too stiff, so I interfaced the collar and front bands with black silk organza.

I changed the order of construction around so that I could finish the side seams up last. I sewed the underarm seam and about one foot of the side seam (at the hem) early on, so that I could hem both, but I saved the rest of the side seams. I did this because I like to place the darts at the very end. At this point I noticed that I could ease the dart fullness in with this stretchy fabric, so I avoided having any darts. This is typically how I treat an FBA in a knit.

I didn't follow the instructions for hemming the sleeves. Instead I used the same technique used on the hem. This involves attaching a bias strip and turning to the inside. This gives a neat finish and lets more of the black side of the fabric show when I fold up the sleeves.

The coat is a little longer than I intended. I added extra length that I wanted, but the pleated fabric relaxed a bit and it ended up a bit longer. I don't mind this at all. Also, I narrowed the shoulders by 1-1/2", which is typical for me in a Vogue pattern. I checked the shoulders several times before attaching the sleeves and I stabilized the shoulder seams with twill tape. However, once I got the sleeves on and had hand finished the seam allowance, I realized that the fabric had relaxed a bit, despite the twill tape. The shoulders are a bit wider than I intended, but not so much so that I wanted to rip things apart to fix it.

Conclusion:

I loooove this pattern! It's simple, but the collar is perfect. I am not long-necked, but it's just the right height and it doesn't choke you at all. It slightly bows out in a pleasing way in the pleated fabric, but it is designed to stand up straight. I also love the darts at the hem. I finished the coat a couple days ago and have worn it every day since then. I feel so chic and elegant wearing it.

A note about Pam Erny:

Pam Erny, owner and sole employee of Fashion Sewing Supply had a very scary health crisis last week and ended up in hospital. She is now home and recovering. You may know that she sells some of the *best* quality interfacings around. She now has some expensive health bills to pay, so please consider replenishing your stash and ordering some of her interfacings. (I am not kidding, they are superior.) She may be a bit slower than usual in filling her orders, but this will help out a tremendously worthy small business and one of the nicest people around.

I hope you have a great weekend!

Collar open

ACC Craft Fair 2013

Attending the ACC Craft Fair is becoming an annual tradition for me! What an inspiring event, with vendors from across the U.S. who make such beautiful items. Plus, people watching is also fun because creatives show up in force. I went with my friend Sue, and we had lunch at of my favorite nearby eateries, Greens.

But mostly the point of post is that I'm also participating in Visible Monday and Hat Attack! I discovered both of these via Margy, who is having a lot of fun with these blog participation events.

I originally blogged the Geisha duster when I made it in June. I am wearing my Trippens, which I call my German Geisha shoes. Despite walking and standing all day, these are as comfy as flat shoes. The hat is a bit hard to see, but is a cloche style with lots of sewn-in pleats. It was perfect for the chilly, foggy, San Francisco day!

You can't see, but I am also wearing my Style Arc Barb pants, which I am wearing soooo much! (I need to make more of these.) I am wearing a black pleated sleeveless shell that I purchased at a consignment store in Pacific Heights.

Sue, who is wearing one of her gorgeous hand made, nuno felted, eco dyed scarves. She sells these but hasn't got her website up yet. She will have a booth at Artistry in Fashion (on 9/28) again this year and will be selling both her hats and her scarves.
Lunch at Greens in Fort Mason

I have started another sewing project. Surprise, surprise, it's another coat. I am very busy this weekend, and this requires some hand sewing, so it may take me awhile to finish. (Do I need a coat intervention?)

Black Fitted Coat - Sandra Betzina Vogue 1318

I really have a thing for coats and jackets, if you haven't noticed. I have plans for sewing more coats and jackets, so don't be surprised. I wish I had a decent sized coat closet!

This pattern is a Sandra Betzina vest. I had this very interesting textured fabric, a black brocade, that I wanted to use. Here are the interesting features of the pattern and my modifications:

• It's a long vest. I couldn't see getting much wear out of a long vest, especially not one made from this brocade, so I added sleeves. It's very easy to add sleeves - just choose another pattern that has the sleeve you want. Overlay the armscye from that pattern onto your desired pattern. Then use the sleeve from that same pattern. I used the sleeve from the Kwik Sew moto jacket that I recently made. This is a one-piece, darted sleeve (at the elbow).
• Since I added sleeves, I also added a sleeve lining.
• Before adding the sleeve, I narrowed the shoulders by about 5/8".
• I made view B, but I omitted the in-seam contrast piping.
• The vest pattern comes with patterns for two detachable collars. One is a fairly straightforward collar. The other is more 3-dimensional with sewn tucks. I loved this collar and made this version. To be honest, I might have preferred to just sew the collar to the coat in the normal manner, as I doubt I'll plan to remove it, but I did make it to be detachable.
Upper collar with sewn tucks
Detachable collar
• This is a princess seam design, which is great for an FBA. The pattern is fairly fitted. I used a size C and added a (conventional) 1" princess seam FBA because I needed the width, as well as the length.
• For a size C, the pattern tissue says that the finished size at the waist is 48". I do not think this is correct. I think it's less than that.
• The model in the photo on the pattern envelope must be 6-feet tall. Notice that the vest hits her at her mid thigh. Mine is knee-length and I am 5'5".
• The vest is loosely fitted through the hips.
• There are in-seam pockets in the side front. These are quite deep.
Deep pockets
• The vest closes with buttons. The pattern calls for 4 buttons, but I found that 5 worked better. The buttonholes are bound buttonholes. I hadn't made bound buttonholes in almost 30 years! (I think it's been 28 years...)
Buttons and Bound Buttonholes

Supplies and Notions:

• The primary fabric is a highly textured black brocade purchased at Fabrix. The texture has a leaf design.
• The lining is a black synthetic fabric with large white polka dots, also from Fabrix. It is very soft.
Polka dots!
• The closure consists of 5 gorgeous, 1" Italian buttons from Britex. (I am getting very spoiled by the button selection at Britex.)
• There are also 5 small clear buttons use to attach the collar to the coat. These are from Fabrix.
• The pockets are lined with remnants of solid black Bemberg by Ambiance.
• Scraps of black silk organza were used to make the 5 bound buttonholes.
• The neckline was reinforced with cotton twill tape.

I really like this black coat. I can see wearing it to an event over a simple top and skinny pants. I have wanted a black coat for a long time, so I think this will be a useful addition to my wardrobe.

Buttoned up

Fall Vogues are Here!

Vogue 8930

What perfect timing!

The weather here in San Francisco has been chilly, damp and grey. Not so unusual for San Francisco in summertime, especially on the west end of town where I live. But I have been really in the mood for sewing for fall!

There are some nice coats and jackets in this batch and it seems much less "dress heavy" than it has been. Also, the BMV sale ends tonight (Friday), so if you like to order them via the website, hurry on over.

Here are some patterns I am admiring, in no particular order. (The pattern pics are clickable and take you to the relevant page on the Vogue site.)

Vogue 8933. It's hard to see the details on the photo of the sewn-up version, so I am showing the illustration instead. I like the shape of the collar and that the coat is lined. If you live in a super cold climate, I doubt you'd want a coat that is open at the bottom, but it is a cute detail.
Vogue 8934. Marcy Tilton raincoat. I *love* this! I have enough fabric to make probably 25 raincoats, so maybe I'll get to this one!
Vogue 8932. This jacket has some *wonderful* seaming details!
Vogue 8929. Marcy's pants. I LOVE LOVE these! YAY for some new fun Marcy pants! My only quibble is that the pattern only goes down to a size EIGHT. Come ON, Vogue!!!!!! Us butt-less wonders want some, too! (Size 4, please.)
Vogue 1363. This is a cute new top from Sandra Betzina. With my narrow shoulders, though, I'd have to modify it quite a bit.
Vogue 1364. A very cute jacket from Sandra Betzina. I'm showing the illustration, and not the photo, because it's made up in a plaid and I think that it looks dowdy on the model. But this pattern has great bones (and reminds me of the Sewing Workshop Opal which I made up and like very much.)
Vogue 8942. Pure whimsy! A frog and an owl backpack.
Vogue 8919. No this dress doesn't appeal to me, but I had to giggle when I saw it. If you saw Project Runway this week, you will know why.

Striped Zippers and More! (Answers to Reader Questions)

My zipper-ordering workstation

Is it Sticky?

Thanks so much for the comments on my moto jacket! I have been wearing it almost every day and enjoying it very much. As you know, this is a faux-leather-embossed-croc fabric and a few of you have asked, "Do you get hot and sticky when you wear it?" The answer is... not a bit!!! Perhaps if I lived in a humid climate, it might be, but then I doubt I'd wear it in humid weather. It is a great jacket for cool, but not seriously cold, weather. It's perfect for your average day in San Francisco where it's usually in the 60s, plus or minus.

Teflon Zipper Foot

I also mentioned on my post that I used a Teflon foot and a Teflon zipper foot to sew the jacket. A few of you asked where a Teflon zipper foot can be obtained. I have a Teflon zipper foot for my old Bernina 930 actually made by Bernina. But, if you don't have (or can't get) a brand-name Teflon zipper foot for your machine, why not buy a generic Teflon zipper foot?

The sewing machine shop that I use to service my machines is Ray's Sewing Center in San Jose, which I originally posted about more than a year ago. (Yes, I drive from San Francisco to San Jose for sewing machine repairs, he's that good.) They have a snap-on Teflon zipper foot in stock that works on most modern machines. If you have an older machine, they can order either a high-shank or low-shank Teflon zipper foot for you. If you want to buy the snap-on shank foot, but your machine isn't a snap-on shank machine, you can buy an inexpensive adapter (Ray's can also help you with that). The adapter will work with any snap-on foot, so it's multi-functional.

If you need a regular Teflon foot, they can help you with that, too.

(Ray's phone number is (408) 295-6901.)

I highly recommend that you have these feet in your sewing arsenal!

Striped Zippers

Striped zippers!

Several of you also asked, "WHERE CAN I GET STRIPED ZIPPERS!" Well, maybe you didn't quite yell it like that, but I heard you, loud and clear. I am also a zipper-lover, so I understand how frustrating it is to see great zippers on RTW clothing, but not be able to find them in the sewing stores.

Glitter zippers

So, let me share a WONDERFUL resource with you. I planned to blog about this resource an entire year ago, but I got distracted. I do that sometimes. Remember when I posted about Zipperstop? I still like Zipperstop, but I found another resource that has an even bigger variety of zippers, including striped zippers.

Rhinestone zippers

I decided that, before I was going to write a post about this place, that I would take a field trip there. This zipper factory is located in South San Francisco.

South San Francisco is not part of San Francisco - in fact, there are two towns in between them. (But that's just how dedicated I am to my blog readers! I am happy to take a field trip on your behalf.) South San Francisco is where the San Francisco airport is located. There is a lot of industrial business in that area, including a ZIPPER FACTORY.

J.N. Zipper Office in South San Francisco

This place is called J.N. Zippers and I had a lot of fun visiting them recently. They are not a store front, but a business office, so I called first and asked if I could walk in and see (and buy) zippers. The building has a small office, and is backed by a warehouse/factory. In the office they have a desk with binders.

Binders of zipper samples.

Swoon.

Jumbo Snaps
Cord Stoppers

I was the only customer there and had lots of fun looking through everything. I created an order and Ivy, my contact, ran back into the factory to see if they had everything I wanted and how long it would take to fill my order, since I requested a few custom zippers.

My zipper-ordering workspace

Scalloped zipper

Zipper pulls

I still like Zipperstop, because YKK zippers are great quality, but there is a much greater variety at J.N. Zipper, and their zippers are also great quality. They have striped zippers, zippers with giant teeth, glow-in-the-dark zippers, glittery zippers, transparent zippers, rhinestone zippers. You need a camouflage zipper? They got that!

Camouflage zipper

It is a bonanza of zipper goodness.

For a small fee, they will customize a zipper for you - they can shorten it, or change out the zipper pull. They currently do not offer this on the Zprz website, so you need to call them to request this service.

Here are some linkies:

• Zprz (retail) website
• Striped zippers (Because the site isn't that easy to navigate!)
• J.N. Zipper Contact Info

Transparent zippers

One other warning. When I was there, they told me that they are currently out of long striped zippers and have re-ordered them. It may take a couple weeks to get them in, but they will get more in.

Enjoy! I am always happy to enable! :)

Proud owner of a 2013 J.N. Zipper calendar, full of cute baby animals.