Saturday, July 20, 2013

Eggplant Pleather Moto Jacket - Kwik Sew 3764


I bought this eggplant-colored crocodile-embossed pleather over a year ago. (It looks black in some photos, but it is eggplant.) Originally I was planning to use it for a bag. But more recently I found myself wanting a moto jacket. In fact, I found myself wanting to make a moto jacket similar to Margy's. In the end, my jacket ended up being almost identical to Margy's. Before I made my jacket, I asked her if she minded and she graciously said that she did not.

Because my fabric was eggplant colored, the zipper choice proved to be a bit challenging. I looked for eggplant-colored zippers and could not find anything I liked - the closest I could find were purple. I didn't care for the look of solid black zippers with the fabric, so I tried a striped zipper and it worked, making my jacket even more like Margy's.

I found this fabric to be pretty easy to sew. It is a PVC fabric, but it is backed with a knit backing and it is not one of the "sticky" faux leathers. Even so, I used my Teflon foot, Teflon zipper foot, and a microtex needle.

The knit backing.

I topstitched using a Guterman topstitching thread in an eggplant color. I marked things (such as the pocket location) with scotch tape, and avoided putting pins through the PVC, except in the seam allowances. In places where it couldn't be avoided, such as when I positioned the zippers, I pinned into the "cracks" of the faux crocodile (as shown in the picture above with the zippers pinned in place), which really didn't create visible holes.

I used scraps of solid black Ambiance Bemberg lining for the pockets and the gusset behind the sleeve zippers. The jacket pattern is not lined, but I created a lining pattern. I used a black fabric with lavender and purple polka dots. It's a fairly thick taffeta-like fabric, much thicker than your typical lining fabric, but it worked.

Sleeve inside

Other alterations and modifications:

  • I made a size Medium. This measures 43" at the finished bust, which was enough width, but I still needed a vertical full bust adjustment. This is a princess seam design and, for a while, I was not sure how to do a vertical FBA without adding width. Then I woke up one morning with a flash of intuition on how do to this and it worked! I added 1-1/4" vertically for the bust.
  • I made view B, but I wanted the zipper pockets and zippered sleeves from view A. The pockets were very high, so I lowered them by 3". Since the view A jacket is shorter, it makes sense for the pockets to be located up higher.
  • Because I wanted to showcase the striped zippers, I made the zipper "windows" much wider than the pattern intended. The windows for the pockets and sleeves were 3/4" wide.
  • I narrowed the shoulder by 1-1/8".
  • I did not shorten the sleeve, which is pretty unusual for me.
  • I am not a huge fan of bagged linings, so I sewed the lining in by hand, which took two long evenings. I really prefer the result, though one of these days maybe I'll give a bagged lining another try.

This is a beautifully drafted pattern. It is OOP, but worth tracking down. I definitely plan to make another one or three. I am feeling moto jacket love. If you look at RTW, you will see moto jackets everywhere!

Thanks for your comments on my Barb pants! I wore them all day today (and am wearing them in these pics) and they were sooooo comfy. I went shopping with DD2 and also wore my new jacket. This color is really growing on me. :)

Lapels worn up
One lapel down

58 comments:

  1. Dayum! That is one fantastic jacket! I've been following your pins on Pinterest wondering what you were planning on making and this is even better than what you pinned!

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  2. I think this jacket is stunning and.I think very reflective of your personality. I am speechless because it is so gorgeous.

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  3. WOWZA! You have outdone yourself...this is SO COOL, I love the purple-ness of it, the fit you got, the striped zippers (of course) and the lining! Purple and lavender polka dots...imagine!

    Well done!

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  4. Second what Margy said. Cool biker chick :-).

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  5. Wow! I love everything about it! Fabulous in every possible way :)

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  6. Would you like to borrow my Vino scooter? You are looking good in this cool jacket!!

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  7. An amazing, stunning jacket. How cool in eggplant, and the striped zippers!!! I wonder where I can find eggplant leather.....Thanks for all the detail shots. I may have been drooling on my keyboard (blush)

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  8. ItIt is really fabulous!! Love the zips, love the lining - all perfect.

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  9. This is very cool. The striped zippers...what a find.

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  10. How clever are you and Margy. Can I come to your place for some sewing lessons? Since I live in Australia, that is hardly likely, but wow, I wish I could learn to create a similar jacket! Getting the right fabric helps too of course and since we have limited stores where I live I would have to dare shop on line. Congratulations on your very fine creations, I love following your blog. So much inspiration!

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  11. This would be cool in any fabric, but the combinations you put together really make it pop. Love it.

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  12. Just wow. Like Carolyn, I had been seeing your awesome moto jacket pins on Pinterest and wondered what you had brewing. This jacket is the equal of even the best designer versions you pinned. And it has the added bonus of being so you!

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  13. That is a very fabulous jacket!

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  14. One.Great.Jacket. And the pants look so good!

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  15. That's a very spiffy outfit. Jacket is superb. I love the details of the striped zips.

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  16. I love your meticulous, inspired work! That color is fabulous on you.

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  17. Great job! Love the color, the fit, the style. Everything about it looks perfect.

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  18. Wow! Everything I can think of to say makes me sound super stalkerish, but let me say that you and Margy are really inspiring me to get sewing with your beautiful work and amazing sense of personal style.

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  19. Wow, that is amazing. Way to go!!!

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  20. Shams, you are at the top of your (sewing) game, and I expect that that's where you'll be for the foreseeable future. Look at you! Fabulous! Your jacket is the very best of any moto jacket I've ever seen, in photos or in real person. Congratulations! And wear it in good health! And thank you for sharing your decision and construction details.

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  21. Looks great! Drat, I almost bought that pattern during the last sale.

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  22. Love it. You are an inspiration. Must get to that pleather that's been in my stash for two years or more...

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  23. Eggplant - my favorite color! Want! Now! What a beautiful jacket!

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  24. Love!!! Great color for you, fun style.

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  25. What a knockout! Perfect in every way. Any chance you'll show how you did the vertical FBA without adding width?

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  26. Just the best jacket on you, Sharon! I've been stock-piling leather from the thrift stores for such a project. You have inspired once again - hope it's OK to copy you and fabulous Margy!

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  27. I've been looking for those striped zippers. Where did you have yours?

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  28. Wow! Great job on this jacket :) Fabric's interesting, love the zippers, too! What a project this must have been! Job well done - enjoy!

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  29. Stunning jacket from what is obviously a great pattern. I suspect all those classic OOP Kwik Sew's will become collector's items very soon ..

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  30. Woman, you are simply a MACHINE these days! just perfection on every aspect of this jacket - but i especially love it as a really personalized take on such a TNT, classic wardrobe workhorse. So difficult to pull off and heavenly when it works! Kudos! happy sunday, steph

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  31. Great looking moto jacket! Where did you find a Teflon zipper foot? I have Husqvarna machine and don't think I have seen one for it.

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    1. Linda, I have a Bernina brand zipper foot for my old Bernina 930. But there is also a universal teflon zipper foot available that you can use with a shank adapter. Call a sewing machine store, such as Ray's Sewing Center (http://www.rayssewingcenter.net/) and ask for details. It's only a few dollars.

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    2. oh oh oh oh oh!!!

      shank adapter!! i'll have to inquire - my Bernina is 30+ years old and an invisible zipper foot is over thirty bucks, a shank adapter would be just the thing if i could find one. Thank you for reading my mind :) steph

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    3. I believe Ray's also sells the adapter foot. (My machine is also over 30 years old!) Just give them a call, unless you have a closer store you frequent.

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    4. Thank you! the cotton patch is closest, but i'll call around. :) steph

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  32. Your jacket is gorgeous! Those zippers are really special.

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  33. This jacket is killer!! You are right about that pattern. I really enjoyed following all your decisions along the way and construction tips. so inspiring!!!

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  34. Lurve your jacket. Should I mention that eggplant is one of my favorite colors (and vegetables ;-) ). Can't get over how great it looks on you AND you execution is exquisite! Thanks so much for sharing your process.

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  35. I just love your new jacket!

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  36. That jacket is wonderful - nothing else to say!
    (Except the trousers are great too)

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  37. That is the MOST wonderful jacket I've ever seen. HONEST!

    Keep up the excellent work!

    Marge R.

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  38. Great looking jacket - looks great on you. I always wonder how anyone can wear it without feeling uncomfortably sweaty. Is it comfortable for you?

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  39. Rawk!!!! Looks fabulous on you.

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  40. Fabulous, fabulous jacket! Love the colour and love the striped zippers - wherever did you find them? Must add that the lining is also terrific-such a great idea to mix the inside dots with the outside stripes on the zip. Genius! When are you starting your own clothing line?

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  41. Wow! what a great looking jacket!! What a great idea to use stripy zippers! Love that dotted lining!

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  42. Double wowzers - fabulous jacket! Just curious how comfortable pleather feels -is it sticky and warm?

    Karen

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  43. Wow, this jacket is fantastic. Your sewing always inspires me. Really enjoy reading your blog.

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  44. A bad girl jacket with a polka dot lining. Fabulous!! Another great Shams creation!!!!!

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  45. I love this jacket so much. And you look great in it?

    So...how did you end up adding the vertical bust depth? Nothing at the side, tapering to 1.5" at the princess seam?

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  46. This is one gorgeous jacket and reflects your skill and creativity. I love all the details especially the striped zippers, (WOW!) and the polka dot lining. It fits you so well and you look great in it.

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  47. Awesome jacket! Love the mock croc and the polka dots!

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  48. What an amazing jacket! And, the details - those zippers! I would never have considered stripes, until now! The lining is also a great detail. Bravo, bravo!

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  49. This is amazing! I'm beyond impressed. I love those zippers. I've never seen any like them before. Great job!!

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