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Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Chenille Autumn Leaves Duster


This fabric has been marinating in my stash while I've been pondering the right project. It is a very delicious, drapey, reversible brocade and I wanted to use it for something special. The leaves are created as a woven texture – the fabric reverses to black. I suspect that it contains mostly rayon, though it was unlabeled. It has the drape and feeling of a chenille throw.

After making the Geisha Faces duster, (thanks for all of the feedback!) I decided that it would be a great pattern for the brocade. I dithered on whether to sew it now, or to wait for cooler weather, but we have had some chilly summer weather here in San Francisco, so I decided to strike while the iron is hot.

I did make a few changes to the pattern:

  • First, I had an idea that I wanted to use the black side of the fabric, as well as the coppery brown side. I redrafted the front and neckline facings. My idea was to sew them on the outside, exposing the black. But when I auditioned this idea, I didn't like it. I did use my re-drafted facings, but they are on the inside, as usual.
  • Redrafted facings.
  • Second, I had the idea that I wanted to put giant welt pockets on the front, instead of the layered patch pockets. I decided against this, for two reasons. First, the fabric ravels like crazy. In fact, it virtually shreds, so it is not a great candidate for welt pockets. Secondly, I decided that I really wanted the fabric to be simple and uninterrupted, so I ditched that idea, too.
  • Ravel ravel. I had barely touched this seam.
    The shreds after trimming one armscye.
  • I changed the neckline from round to a v-neck.
  • I had previously shortened the sleeves by 1-5/8", but they were still too long. I shortened them by another 1-1/2".
  • I widened the armscye on the sleeve, so it would fit into the armhole better.
  • I omitted the placket closure. Instead I used two (stacked) buttons and inserted elastic loops into the front seam.
  • I purchased 4 buttons from Britex. The polka dot buttons fit inside the cup buttons.
    Front closure detail
  • I finished all raw edges by turning them under and hand sewing them down. I only used bias binding on the armhole seam.
  • The sleeves, with all seams finished by hand.
  • I did want to have a pocket, so I created a 3D bellows style pocket and hand sewed it to the inside on the right front. I sewed it by hand, so it would be invisible from the front, using a double thickness of the thread, so it would be stronger.
  • Inside of pocket
    Outside of pocket.
    Pocket detail
    It's hard to see, but I am sticking my fingers into the inside pocket.
On my Geisha Duster post, Jackie G asked how I did the FBA, so here's a pic. Because the original dart was rather small, I didn't bother moving it - I just ignored it. Note that I usually wouldn't be so casual. Normally I would lower the dart and then enlarge it. ;)

Because all of the raw edges were sewn down by hand (and the fabric did not cooperate) and the pocket was also sewn in by hand, this duster took me longer to make than the last one. But the result is very cozy. I can definitely see wearing this out for the evening in cooler weather.

If you celebrate July 4th, I hope you have a nice one! Myself, I am looking forward to a long sewing weekend. ;)

42 comments:

  1. Gorgeous!!! These colors look like they were made for you. I am ordering this pattern. Like your shoes, too...

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    1. Thanks! Those are the Tsubo Mary Jane, which YOU turned me on to. :)

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  2. Awesome! I love how you've made this fabric work for you! Just awesome!

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  3. BEAUTIFUL! and I love the dot buttons.

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  4. So pretty and I love the interior pocket.

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  5. This is beautiful! The fabric is just gorgeous.

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  6. That is a totally fabulous look, from top to toe - what great shoes! I still think "duster" is a funny name for such a glamorous garment - very far its horse riding roots!

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  7. I really, really love this. Super luscious!!

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  8. Love, love, love! I can't find the words to say how much I love this. If you EVER get tired of it, you can send it my way since those are my colors. Oh, and obviously your colors, too.: )

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  9. I love this! You really have a fabulous personal style, and it all looks so great on you.

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  10. Another fabulous duster! It's absolutely gorgeous. Brilliant idea - that interior pocket.

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  11. Gosh that is stunning. The fabric really makes this special and the colours are great on you. Am enamoured with your many creative pocket designs, they are becoming a signature feature yet always so different. Simply fab!!

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  12. That is absolutely gorgeous. Love it. The fabric is stunning and you have shown it of to it's best.

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  13. Dang it, Shams - I think I'm going to have to add this pattern to my list of those I want to get next time they are on sale...I blame you, you know. This fabric is beyond gorgeous - I hope that you get a lot of wear out of this duster, and are ready for all the compliments that will be coming your way!

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  14. Beautious!! Love all your details and changes and designs. Your coat just suits you so well.

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  15. You hooked me in at the buttons on this beauty!

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  16. I love the coat - and thanks for the idea with the buttons!! I have been looking for a special button but now I'll just assemble one!!

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  17. Nothing like striking while the iron is hot! Great duster.

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  18. Great coat - isn't it summer where you are?

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  19. Ok, the geishas had me giddy, but this is so lush and fabulous. I have major multiple duster envy.

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  20. That fabric is fabulous! Thanks for the closeup shot of it. These coats really suit you.

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  21. Beautiful job Shams, as always. The buttons are perfect! And, I love that pocket. Way cool.

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  22. Fantastic! Both of your dusters are just wonderful.

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  23. Awesome, just awesome. Now I have to buy this pattern. It will be perfect for a piece of fabric that has been sitting in my stash. Thanks for the inspiration.

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  24. Wow! You are just dusting your way across the sewing univers! You not only have a gift for incredible sewing but you sure know how to pick fabric, woman. Fabulous outcome!

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  25. This is really beautiful! Absolutely gorgeous fabric.

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  26. I LOVE both your dusters. Since you finished this one so beautifully, seems like it would be reversible! :-)

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  27. That fabric is so fabulous...good for you waiting for just the right project. Beautiful duster.

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  28. fantastic and you tamed that ravely fabric, what a chore. but well worth it for the result. and you can send a cool breeze my way :)

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  29. Beautiful...absolutely elegant!

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  30. "Duster" is not a word in my vocabulary but both of yours are fabulous wearable and very attractive garments. Go You!

    PS The pockets in the first one also gave me an inspiration for a current make. Thanks!

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  31. Both your dusters are so inspirational! Thank you for sharing especially the FBA tutorial.

    Karen

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  32. This is really great-I love the colors, and can almost feel that soft chenille. Beautiful.

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  33. OMG! I love this!!! Everything...the fabric the details, the style. Wow!

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  34. So beautiful, Shams! The first one is fun and the second one is elegant.

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  35. Stunning. Love the buttons. Really beautiful.

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  36. Outstanding! This is such a work of art. Beautiful.

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  37. really lovely some great touches - love the buttons

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  38. AMAZING! What a brilliant duster, you look great in it.

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  39. ohmegoddess I LOVE this version!!! Drooling!!!!

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