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Monday, May 26, 2014

Print Block Tee - Vogue 9004


I actually got some sewing done on this long weekend!

This pattern, Vogue 9004, came out in the most recent batch of Spring Vogues. It's similar to an Au Bonheur tee I made some time ago. This pattern is designed for woven fabrics, but I made it with a knit.

I wear knit tops much more than I wear tops made from wovens. But that's just me.

The pattern says that it is a Fitted Top, and you should believe it. Check the finished bust and hip measurements on the pattern tissue before you cut it out.

Fabric

The fabric I used is a double knit from JoAnns. One side is striped and the other has polka dots. Unlike most double knits, which have stability, this is a very unstable, stretchy knit. It has all the earmarks of a poor quality knit, and I should have thought twice before ordering it by mail. The fabric is "droopy" (rather than drapey), and it easily stretches out of shape. It also had flaws, which I was able to cut around, but I didn't notice until long after I'd ordered it. I will use it for testing patterns, like this one, since I have more left over.

I used both sides of the fabric to "print block" the tee. (Print blocking is similar to color blocking, but with prints.)

Alterations and Modifications

  • I made view B, but used the sleeves from view C.
  • I selected the size based on negative ease, which is how I like to fit a knit.
  • I should say, I sorta used the sleeves from view C. I lengthened them to 3/4 length. I omitted the slit. Also, this top was designed for wovens, so the short sleeve is a bit loose at the hem. I tapered it considerably.
  • I did not do an FBA. The pattern comes with a 1" bust dart, which I did not sew. This fabric had some stretch to it, so I eased the dart at the side seam. (I will sew a dart on a more stable knit, such as a ponte.)
  • I wanted to "pull" the top in a bit at the armscye (similar to making a small dart), so I reduced the sleeve cap a bit, just in that location.
  • I removed quite a bit of fullness at the hip - at the side seams.
  • I narrowed the shoulder seam by 1/2"!!! This is FAR less than usual, so maybe Vogue is now drafting for a narrower shoulder!
  • I did not sew in the back shoulder dart—I eased in the fullness.
  • As this knit is very stretchy, I stabilized the (horizontal) shoulder seams with twill tape.
  • As this knit is very unstable and floppy, it would not support the notch at the front neckline. I cut the notch off and, instead of facings, finished the neck with a binding.
  • I alternated the print around the body—I did the same for the 2-piece sleeves. (It creates sort of a harlequin effect.)
  • I omitted the zipper.

I think that's it. It just goes to show that, even a fairly simple top, can require quite a few alterations to fit properly.

Conclusion

This is a very nicely drafted top! I will definitely make it again, preferably from a better quality fabric. This design is a great way to use those two-sided fabrics that we all have in our stashes.

Fun new shoes!

What Else?

That's not the only sewing I accomplished this weekend. I cut out some leggings, and I have almost completed a project that I will be showing early next month. It is part of a larger project that includes other bloggers, so there will be a big reveal in the next couple of weeks and a blog tour.

Thanks!

I want to thank my (very well mannered) readers for not commenting on my recent weight gain. I definitely have suffered in that realm since starting my new job, and I have experienced adverse health ramifications as a result. But I am not giving up—I am working on finding more work/life balance. I have no plans to go into hiding or stop blogging.

I am participating in a corporate health initiative that begins next week and lasts for over 3 months. As part of this project, I pulled together a team of 7 like-minded colleagues. We will be wearing pedometers and attempting to walk at least 10,000 steps (or equivalent) every day. I have been wearing my pedometer already and, on days I am in Mountain View, I walk on average between 12,000 and 16,000 steps. I move considerably less on other days, so I will be working on consistency.

We were asked to come up with a name for our team and, as we are all writers, another colleague suggested Run on Sentences. As the team captain, I guess that makes me the Queen of Run on Sentences. ;)

Happy Week!

35 comments:

  1. I like your take on this top! Sorry the fabric was so unstable but it does work well for this. I'm sure your future versions are going to be even more awesome!

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  2. Love it! You look great in that fabric combo, but I can see how the pattern can look great in a lot of combinations. Would love to see other versions.

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  3. Great t. You did well to get that fabric under control. I'm not a fan of working with thin floppy knits! & hadn't noticed the other thing you mentioned!

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  4. I've seen that fabric somewhere--I think maybe at Hancock's--and my in-person impression was that it was very cute and yet not likely to hold up (so, just what you said). Love the top and I hope it surprises us by giving long service! You are looking absolutely wonderful to me, and I would be very sad if you were to go into hiding. Best wishes on the difficult task of finding strategies that work for your schedule and your health.

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  5. Love your take on this top. And the idea to do it from a knit. And, as usual, the shoes are to die for.

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  6. Great top and it fits perfectly into your wardrobe.....and the shoes, woo. hoo!!!

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  7. Lovely top, Shams! It's not often you see a non-designer Vogue top so closely resemble something from the runway - but this pattern is straight out of Giorgio Armani's 2013 spring collection! Once you find the secret to work-life balance... be sure to let us all know, alrighty? From my experience it's pretty normal to have trouble finding the middle every now and again.

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  8. That top is on my short list; I just picked it up last week. I know what you mean about the fabric. I made the Tilton zipper top with 2 other colorways. I do like the top, but the fabric was a bit of the challenge.

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  9. You find the most awesome shoes! The top is great too, though I saw that fabric in the store and passed on it for quality reasons. I hope it holds up okay, you look great!

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  10. I bought this pattern too and I never thought of using it the way you have, which is fun and interesting, I really have to be more careful about recovery on knits, especially ones I actually buy in person! I had similar issues with a piece of cotton cashmere knit I was using for a still unfinished cardigan.
    I think that it's harder to keep weight off than to lose it. At least you are taking charge before you've gained it all back. Depending on your personality, being in a group can be very helpful. I wish you lots of luck; I've been there too.
    You have some of the most awesome shoes. I love these.

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  11. The top! The shoes! Your totally fabulous look!!!
    You're an inspiration, as always!
    Plus, whoever thought up that fabric design - stripes on one side and dots on the other - should get a Nobel prize!

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  12. Gosh, Shams, I would never have thought of this top. But you've made me think again! Did I miss your explanation or is that a black top you are wearing underneath?
    The back looks so much longer and there is a black band at the front, too. Huh?
    Love those shoes! I would never take them off!

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    1. Thanks! Gayle, I am wearing black leggings and a short black tube skirt underneath. I made the tube skirt a couple months back and it's one of my wardrobe staples.

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  13. What a great outfit! As for your health, you are an inspiration! I am working on mine as well, but I have a dr.'s appt. this week and rather dread what they may tell me. The main thing I am trying to do is to not give up, and to keep living and enjoying life, and not fall into despair over it. Your attitude is an encouragement to me.

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  14. I'm sure you'll get the work/life balance in check, and I hope you'll give us some hints for doing it ourselves. Kudos on the clever team name - my writing group is called the Rough Writers, and there are times that we'd be just as suited to join your team ;)

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  15. Come on, you know we want to go get those shoes. Where did they come from?

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    1. Thanks, Connie. I bought them in a little shoe store in Hayes Valley in SF. The sales lady said that they are Romanian and that they are the only place that sells them in the U.S. Or something like that.

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  16. Love the outfit, love the shoes. Good luck with corporate health initiative.

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  17. You've inspired me in many ways, Shames! One has been health, as a fellow Type-2 diabetic, but we all know what a constant struggle weight loss can be, so your honesty is just another part of the inspiration package!

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  18. Thanks for your insight re: knit fabric! I just bought the same, but in purple and white! Now I will have some idea of how to best manage it! Great top! Looks great!

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  19. You look terrific in this cool top! I love the double sided fabric. Too bad it behaved poorly. Sounds like you're doing the right things to get back to the body size you want. You're a strong woman so I know you'll achieve it!
    Love. The. Shoes.!!!

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  20. I bought that fabric - even after being able to feel it and see what it was like. I'm glad to know I'm not the only one who was challenged by it. And I completely agree/relate to the challenge of keeping weight off. It really does seem harder to maintain than to lose it in the first place.

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  21. Hey Shams,
    will i get to meet you at Britex on June 28th if I make it to the opening? thanks for all your time posting all this fantastic information. I dig your blog. have you been to the google bldg in NYC yet? very cool from the outside. an entire city block.

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    1. You betcha, Leslie! I will be there! (I'd better be, as I am speaking about something or other.) I have not yet been to the Google building in NY, but I would like to visit. Thanks!

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  22. What a great look. You've nailed it again. I struggle with my weight too (I've put a load on over the last year and am finding it hard to shift) but just remember to be kind to yourself and you will get there.

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  24. We are LOVING this pattern and your interpretation! Well done, Shams!

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  25. I bought this pattern to do the exact same thing you did, Shams - DANGIT, you beat me to it!!! LOL!!! Glad as always to have your pointers, though - and I'll be extra careful which knit I choose! :)

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  26. I think you look exceptionally good - but health trumps no matter what else. Your top is great, iffy fabric aside, and your shoes are fabu! Don't you love patterns that can be adapted to wovens or knits? Thanks as always for sharing the details.

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  27. Go, shams! As usual, you are awesome.

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  28. you look great, thanks for the details on your build. hang in there with the walking and health regime.

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  29. I was just looking at this pattern today. Great job!

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  30. Your Highness, thanks for everything about this post! :)

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  31. good to know this pattern can be used to make a terrific knit top. The thought crossed my mid when I was making it from a woven fabric.

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