Sunday, March 10, 2013

Vertical Only FBA


I mentioned in my Renfrew Top post that I used a vertical only FBA. A couple people asked me for more details. I use this sort of FBA routinely in knits, when I am making a top with negative ease. (You can read more about negative ease in my Uber Busty post.)

When you have a pattern where there is enough width in the pattern piece to go around the bust, you may still need a full bust adjustment (FBA). This is because you still need extra length in the front to go up and over the bust. Unless, that is, you like tugging at your front hem because your top constantly hikes up in front.

In this situation, I perform a vertical only FBA:

  • Mark the bust point on the pattern tissue. (I never use the bust point marked on the pattern. I pin the front and back pattern tissue together at the shoulder seam and put it on my body. I line the CF up to my CF and mark the bust point with a pin/pen. My bust point is always lower and farther from CF than the pattern company indicates. This is why, by the way, I don't like patterns with the bust darts already drafted in – for me it's easier to add a bust dart than it is to move one.)
  • Slice the front pattern piece horizontally at the level of the bust point.
  • Add length evenly across the pattern piece. For my bust, I usually add 1" to 1.5", but YMMV (your mileage may vary). When you wear a RTW top, how much shorter is the top in front, due to your bust? That's about how much length you will want to add.
  • I also curve the side seam out slightly at bust level - I may cut this off later.

Here is the resulting Renfrew pattern piece, to give you an idea of what I mean:

How I sew this up depends on the fabric. In a stretchy knit, I ease this extra fabric at the sewing machine. (I ease it in over a couple inches at the level of the bustline - I do not ease it in over the entire side seam.) Note that I do not gather the extra fabric – I do not like the result when it's gathered. I just stretch the seam so that the back (which is shorter) meets the front (which is longer) and stitch.

In a stable/beefier knit, particularly if it's a 2-way knit and there is no stretch in the up-and-down direction, I sew it up as a dart. But I don't sew the dart until the shoulder seams are sewn, then I put it on and pin the darts right on the body. I do not like to sew darts in a stretchy knit, which is why I ease the seam in such fabrics, but do what pleases you.

After I sew the darts, (and possibly the sleeves if they are being sewn in flat), I pin the side seams, try the top on, and check the fit. I then machine stitch. I never just sew the darts or the side seams without pin fitting and I often tweak the fit at this point. It's really worth taking the time and trouble to get the fit just right – the result is much more flattering.

Spam:

By the way, with only a couple of exceptions, most of you didn't mind if I turned off anonymous commenting, so I did. It has been a blissfully quiet day on the spam front. Maybe, at some point, I can re-enable anonymous commenting, but this is a nice break.

22 comments:

  1. The chevrons on this top are so cool, it has a lot of subtle interest without being a "look at me" top. Thank you for the adjustment information.

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  2. what an excellent adjustment and the way you described is so good, understood after the first read. you look wonderful the weight loss is very flattering.
    regards,
    linda in australia

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    1. Great journey through the fit process. Looks great! I'm on a quest for the perfect knit tshirt.

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  3. Cool top and you are looking very well. Congrats on your weight loss.

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  4. Thanks for explaining vertical dart. Love the stripe top and yes you are looking slimmer and slimmer. Great job for both the top and your weight loss.

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  5. Thank you! I had this backwards in my mind picturing some kind of invisible vertical dart. I couldn't picture how that would help (even though it would be a cool trick) because hiking up in the front is my biggest issue and I'm not as busty as you!

    I love all the details and pictures you provide. They are so helpful.

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  6. Draping darts on the body works well for me too. Both tops look good to me, but this stripe is really sharp!

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  7. I was on my way out when I first read this and totally missed the tips on draping the dart and then fitting the top before sewing the side seams. Those are great tips I haven't considered before. I just know my next t is going to be the bomb!

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  8. I always learn something from you on fitting the large bust. I will be adding draping my bust dart. So smart.
    I love how you are looking! Have you been refitted for bras yet? You should before you make too many new clothes. You've lost enough weight to need a smaller size bra.
    What pattern is your striped top? Did you add the cf seam?

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  9. All the tops you've made recently look fab on you, Shams! Your fitting details are really helpful and clear.

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  10. Thank you - that was both clear and helpful

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  11. Your top looks just perfect on you. It looks effortless, though of course it reflects your knowledge of sewing and your knowledge of personal fit. Tho I'll never need a FBA, I certainly appreciate seeing such great fit.

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  12. Thank you for these tips on making a vertical bust adjustment. They will be a big help to me!

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  13. This one is great and looks so good on you. Thanks for the description of your alteration.

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  14. I like your vertical FBA and I love your striped top!

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  15. Wow, what great tips on fitting! Thanks so much for being such a generous sewist. Love this top, you look wonderful!

    Dee

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  16. I really like your use of stripes on this top Shams - you look great in this top. The Renfrew seems to be exceedingly popular at the moment - with good reason in my opinion!

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  17. The proportion of the stripes and their narrow width are just magical! The angles all flatter you newly slim body too. Thank you for the alteration tip too! You rock that pattern!

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  18. I'm going to try this on my next muslin of the renfrew! Thanks!

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  19. Thanks you for sharing how you fit! I'm ubber busty too and am always interested in the how tos.

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  20. Thank you! I am giving it a try with my Renfrew. I'll let you know!

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  21. Thanks! I just used this on my latest Renfrew and it worked FANTASTICALLY

    http://cashmerette.blogspot.com/2014/01/stripes-upon-hudson.html

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