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Sunday, January 18, 2015

Reversible New York Cape


I finally finished my cape!

When I wrote a post about different types of capes last October, I was already working on this one. I had to put it aside for awhile, and then it sat and sat, decorating my dress form. All it lacked was buttons.

But let's back up a bit.

This is a downloadable pattern from Tessuti. It comes only in one size. I didn't muslin this pattern, but I did tissue fit the paper pattern. I was with Georgene at the time, and she recommended a rather novel approach to the FBA. She suggested that I raise the shoulder seam on the front only, as shown in the following pic:

It's a rather unconventional approach, but Georgene got the idea by reading the wrinkles on the paper pattern as I was modeling it, and it gave me more room in the front. I didn't make any other changes to the pattern.

Georgene also suggested that I make the cape to be reversible.

I liked her suggestion but, grumble grumble, it meant more work for me, and more fabric to acquire. The main fabric is an incredibly soft wool knit from Emma One Sock. The other side is a charcoal-colored, water repellant fabric from Fabrics R Us, purchased the same day I went to PIQF.

The pattern has no pockets, but I wanted pockets on each side, so I spent time dithering over what sort of pockets to use. Have you noticed that these sorts of details require much cogitation? At least they do for me.

For the wool side, I made zipper pockets.

For the solid side I made patch pockets with a "window" opening. (I think I first saw this pocket on Pinterest long ago.)

Patch pockets ready to sew on

Completed pocket

This cape is mostly "open", like a poncho, but a button at each side creates some shaping, as shown in the following technical drawing:

Since I wanted the cape to be reversible, I had to get creative. I decided to put a buttonhole on the front and the back at each side seam. I then created button "cuff links" to go through the buttonholes on each side. Since this fabric has some loft, I used a piece of foam, with a slit cut out, to sew the button cuff links so that there would be about 1/4" of thread between them:

The shiny buttons are for the waterproof side. The artsy buttons are for the wool side.
I purchased the buttons at Britex.

A completed button cuff link

The buttons at CF are sewn on normally. This means that when I wear the cape with the waterproof side out, the left side buttons over the right. C'est la vie.

The cape is finished with a beautiful wrap-around binding that I purchased at Britex. I sewed it on by hand—it took me two days to complete.

Yes, those are polka dot socks

mem wanted me to twirl, so I removed the side buttons and let it fly!
Thanks to mem for these pics!

43 comments:

  1. That is adorable! Love your solution for the buttons.--Martina

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  2. I love this cape! Both fabrics are great--I think it was pretty genius of you to use a water repellant fabric for one side. And I never would have thought to do an FBA that way, but it looks like it worked out really well!

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  3. Yes!! I love this cape!! The arm situation looks really functional, where you can actually raise them up and use them instead of being trapped inside a more traditional, fuller, longer cape. Great details and fabrics.

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  4. How strange to see this post popping up this morning as I was just contemplating whether I could justify making another cape! I love them and yours is definitely pushing me towards a yes. I do love the reversible effect too, the woolly side looks so cosy and the other side so practical. The pocket shape on that side is just adorable and looks so good sewn on. Great project!!

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  5. Capes aren't my thing but this one could change my mind! It's casual and elegant at the same time. That pocket is a fabulous addition, you can bet I will be trying it soon. Nice work with the hand stitched binding- sometimes it just has to be done to be done right. Very nice!

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  6. Love all the details. So much thought went into this. Very inspirational!

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  7. Fabulous! Love all the details. Looks very snazzy!

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  8. Yes, I recognize that pocket, it's from the Folk Clothing line at http://www.folkclothing.com/women ! It the most pinned pin that I have saved. Great cape!

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    1. Actually, here is the link to the 2012 garment those pockets were on, it's gorgeous! http://www.folkclothing.com/folk-womens-pod-coat-cornfield-blue

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    2. Very cool, Isaspacey! You know, I hadn't seen that pin in a long time so I'm glad my memory of it was pretty close. Also, I had never seen the entire jacket. Thanks!

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  9. This is a winner! I LOVE that it is reversible with a hood!!!

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  10. This is such a great cape Shams! Love all your attention to details - pockets, button cufflinks, and hand sewn binding. Karen

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  11. Wow--worth the work! I like that it looks more like a jacket than a cape.

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  12. Fantastic garment, and oh so practical! I love it!

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  13. What a great-looking, forever wearable cape! All your thinking paid off fabulously!

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  14. This cape is terrific, Shams! And no blog photo shoot would be complete without the signature Shams Twirl. :) Once again you've knocked it out of the park. Congrats!

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  15. Oh, well done! It's fabulous! (And love the socks, too!)

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  16. What a gorgeous result! The shaping is just beautiful, which is remarkable considering the simplicity of the pattern - the fabrics really shine. Great details, too!

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  17. You have entered the Zone of Cape Fashion! Soon you will leap tall buildings in a single bound. I have gazed at that fabric on Emma One Sock for long yearning moments and it is beautiful. Also your socks are highly admirable. I am truly sad that I will be out of the country while you are in Puyallup b/c a consult on sock acquisition would be so much fun!

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  18. Gorgeous, Sharon! I am not fond of capes that look like capes. This is exceptional, and I am already a huge fan of this pattern company. Thanks for the inspiration!

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  19. I love this! I cape with a hood is fantastic!

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  20. I love the cape, especially the pockets. The socks...adorable!!!

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  21. How cool to have a cape that does double duty! Some projects just require so much extra thinking time and prep but in the end they are the best ever. Your cufflinks solution is just so clever! Thanks for sharing this cape and showing us the possibilities it holds!

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  22. A+ for the choice of fabrics and the overall look of the poncho. I really like this one!

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  23. I've been eyeing this pattern for a while but wasn't sure it would work on a fuller bust...but it does. Marvellously. It's now on my ever growing to-do list, although I suspect mine will be a much simpler version. Yours is wonderful.

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  24. Oh, what a great cape! It's worth all the time it took. Love the fabric, the reversibility, the buttons and the fabulous binding that is certainly worthy of hand sewing. And the pocket, did I say I love the pocket?

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  25. Absolutely love your cape. It's fantastic! And how special that it is reversible. Thanks for sharing that novel FBA.

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  26. Love it! Fabulous pockets, binding and it's reversible to boot! I think it looks really great on you.

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  27. Great cape Shams, love your attention to details. It looks like I finally found a way to comment on your blog :-)

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  28. Can you say a little more about the FBA? Did you simply add inches to the front of the pattern at the shoulder seam? The cape is beautiful AND beautiful on you.

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    1. Cindy, I don't have the pattern at hand, but I added about 2" at the bottom of the seam, tapering it to the original seam line, as shown in the photo.

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    2. To be honest, I almost hesitated even posting this alteration, as it's rather unconventional, but it just seemed to work!

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  29. I like this. Glad you added pockets, always need pockets.

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  30. Beautiful. I'm inspired. Thank you : )

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  31. Such a beautiful cape, with shaping, pocket details and even fabric matching on the hood--such attention to detail. Of course, that fits with someone who understands the importance of classy socks!

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  32. Lovely cape - and it just gave me an idea for a wonderful print I don't want to interrupt!

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  33. Wow! So beautiful, and I love the socks :)

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  34. Brilliant trick with the cuff link buttons - I have struggled with how to keep the buttons stable while working with my thread, but will definitely remember this for next time!

    Congrats on another fabulous piece of outerwear! You make me want to cut into a jacket pattern . . . but there are so many other projects taking over my sewing table . . .

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  35. What a beautiful cape shams! and your solutions are all so creative and clever. Which is only what I would expect from you :) Also, congratulations on your Vogue patterns magazine feature! It was such a pleasure to read the article :)

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  36. It was worth every minute you put into it: custom fit, pockets, hand-sewn binding, reversible lining. I have some knit fabric I've been wanting to make into a kimono-style jacket, but I may make this cape instead. Thanks for the inspiration.

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  37. Your workmanship is really beautiful - and it looks GREAT on you!

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  38. You are awesomely talented, Shams. I wish I lived near you so I could skim off your knowledge and creativity!

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