More Fall Vogues are Out!

A new batch of Fall Vogues were released today. Like many sewists, I love fall clothing and this batch does not disappoint. Here are some of my favorites (and a few "almost there"s) from the new lineup.

Vogue 8693

I just love love this jacket from Marcy Tilton. Of course, it will look best when worn with a narrow legged pant, but I don't mind whipping up a pair or two. Because of the location of the princess seam, an FBA might be a little tricky - I won't know until I can try on the tissue paper. I love the shawl collar and the funky hem!

Vogue 8691

A cute top from Katherine Tilton, Marcy's sister. This one has princess seams, which are perfect for absorbing an FBA. This will also look great with a narrower pant.

Vogue 1216

A new coat from Lynn Mizono. I really respect Mizono's designs. This coat, for example, has very interesting design lines. Unfortunately, I am not sure how flattering it would be on me, because I have recently been forced to admit that oversized tops/jackets don't do me any huge favors, but I really love the lines on this one. Maybe one of my friends will make it and let me try it on. <hint hint> :)

Vogue 1213

Omigosh, I love this Koos coat! So interesting! And it has princess seams, so I think I could even make this one work. I have other coat patterns higher in the pecking order, but I do like this one.

Vogue 8690

Another pattern by Katherine Tilton. This pattern is very much like the Sewing Workshop Liberty top, especially with the Heather modification I posted recently, but many people will find it more affordable to buy the Vogue version, if you don't mind dropped sleeves. It's a great design!!

Vogue 1212

This new Sandra Betzina coat is really beautiful but it's not for me. At least I don't think so, with the design emphasis on the under bust seam. But it has interesting lines and would look fabulous on the right figure.

Vogue 1210

I like the asymmetric hem on this Sandra Betzina dress but, again, on me, it would be cringeworthy with the bust detailing. On the right figure, it would be flattering, flowing, and easy to wear.

Vogue 8704

Another new pattern from Lynn Mizono. I need one of these hats this winter.

Vogue 8700

So often I find that the Vogue Women patterns seem a bit "off." Take this pattern, for example. The side drape is so extreme that it feels unbalanced, but not in a good way, especially with the buttoned up neckline. The cropped version is better but still doesn't excite me.

Vogue 8703

Another fun accessories pattern from Marcy Tilton. This one features fingerless gloves and scarves. Two of the scarves have pockets. :)

Vogue 1211

This Guy Laroche jacket intrigues me. I like that it's asymmetric. I like that there is shoulder interest. I like the armscye and the pleats on the sleeve head. I like the hem. But, I don't know... there is almost too much shoulder interest, at least on the left side. I have to mull this one over for awhile. I definitely wouldn't use a shiny fabric if I did make it for myself. :)

Sewing Workshop - Now Jacket

I first made the Sewing Workshop Now top last March. Around the same time I scored some of this Nani Iro fabric. If you aren't familiar with the name, Nani Iro fabrics are designed by Japanese artist Naomi Ito. Her designs are very graphic and very collectible – the fabric and notion equivalent of Beanie Babies (way back when), at least for some folks. I bought several pieces of her fabric from Korea by mail order early this year. The other pieces I purchased are Japanese double gauze - I love Japanese double gauze. This particular piece was advertised as cotton/linen, so I expected it to have a bit of drape, but when it arrived I was surprised how stiff this fabric is - almost like an upholstery fabric. I might venture to guess that the inks used to saturate the fabric added to its stiffness.

Nani Iro cotton/linen

I went ahead and washed/dried the fabric and, other than some stubborn wrinkles, it was fine. I wanted to use a design with minimal seams, so as to disturb the print as little as possible. Of course, this has the disadvantage of requiring a giant dart - not my favorite look, but oh well. I decided to use the Now pattern, but this time to make it so that I could wear it as a light jacket.

I actually made this jacket last spring, but didn't finish it and so I didn't blog it. (Meaning I am a bit vague on some of the details.) For this version, I lengthened the pattern a bit. (I can't remember exactly how much.) I put side slits at the hem. I bought some orange buttons for it but I cannot find them anywhere, so for now, I am wearing it without buttons. :) I finished most of the seams with French seams.

I also mused that it would look nice with curved welt pockets and some lightweight shoulder pads, but never followed up with either. Who knows, I may go back and tweak it more later.

I'm wearing it today because of Self Stitched September and because it's a warm day. In fact, I hemmed it last night, so this is the first time it's been worn.

The cream top is Christine Jonson's v-neck tee, which is a pattern I've made twice but haven't blogged - I still haven't tweaked it to my satisfaction, but it's fine to wear under other things. The pants are my white linen Trios, which have been washed and dried several times and are almost impossible to iron with those 3D pockets, so they are a bit rumpled. :)

From Sewing Workshop Designs

Vogue 1018 - Sandra Betzina skirt #5

I liked this skirt so much, I made it four times in late 2009. For example, here and here. I made this particular version in January 2010, using fabric left over from this Au Bonheurs skirt, but I didn't get around to blogging it. For this version, I cut the unusual striped fabric on the bias and omitted the drape. I made sure all the tucks were on the "gray" wide stripe. I also increased the angle of the hem.

I'm finally blogging it today because I'm wearing it for Self Stitched September.

I also knitted the scarf, though it was several years ago. I used a skein of Nepalese silk sari "leftover" yarn, cast about 16 stitches onto largish needles, and knitted in stockinette until the skein was gone. (The scarf curls in on itself.) I then sewed little felted balls to the ends – sort of a funky fringe. I got the idea from Renee, a very creative friend of mine. :)

By the way, I chose that yarn link at random, I bought mine from a local knitting shop. I got a bag of felted, oblong balls from either the Hearthsong or Magic Cabin online store several years ago, I can't remember which.

The skirt pattern is one of my favorites and is now out of print, but shouldn't be too hard to get a hold of.

Territory Ahead Cascade Skirt

Last year on Stitcher's Guild, someone mentioned this great skirt on Territory Ahead, called the Cascade skirt:

This skirt is similar to the Sewing Workshop Lotus skirt:

But the Territory Ahead skirt is also similar to a a slit style circle skirt that I drafted last year:

In fact, it is almost identical to one-half of that skirt! But I am getting ahead of myself...

I decided to try to reproduce the Territory Ahead skirt, based on the photo on their website - I have not seen the skirt in person. It is basically an a-line skirt with a side drape and lined to the knee (based on one review that was posted). I played with the design in a small scale, using fabric scraps. Once I had the design figured out, I then realized it's pretty much the same as the slit circle skirt I drafted last year. Here is what the main pattern piece looks like (I neglected to add a grainline to the sketch, but the grainline runs perpendicular to the top of the skirt):

You cut two of these pattern pieces and sew the a-line side. You then sew the portion marked as "waist" (see the diagram), to the bottom of a yoke. My yoke is straight across at the bottom, but it doesn't have to be - you trim off any unevenness later when you mark the hem. I used a rectangular yoke with an elastic waistband, but if you prefer a fitted yoke with darts and a zipper, you can use that instead. You make the yoke as wide as you want, but I made mine about 4" from the bottom of the waistband to the skirt, because that placed the side drape on the hip where I liked it best. I also liked the selvedge on the fabric, so I sewed it to the outside of the yoke and let the selvedge edge form the side of the drape. But you could construct it more conventionally, if you don't want the selvedge edge showing.

Because the drape is not stitched together, it can fall open, revealing a lot of leg. So the skirt is lined to just below the knee. I used the same a-line shape that I used on the skirt (the non-draped side) and cut it out of a semi-sheer crinkled polyester from Fabrix. I left the bottom edge serged.

Inside out, showing the lining. The skirt is listing a bit to the side due to the weight of the drape, but it does not pull on the body because the fabric, a cotton rayon blend from Fabrix, is not that heavy.

Another peek at the lining.

When I drafted the skirt, I did not worry about the curve of the hemline. I just ignored it. After I sewed the skirt up last Sunday, I hung it for almost a week before hemming it this morning - I would recommend hanging it a bit because the drape is on the bias. When it came time to hem it, I pulled out DD2's punching bag, placed it upside down on a box, and put the skirt on it. The punching bag has a depressingly similar waistline to mine. I was then able to pin in a straight hem and to cut off the excess at both sides. Of course, a dressform would work even better. :)

My Impromptu Dress Form

Will I make this again? Yes, I really like this skirt. Because it is an a-line, it is easy to wear and move in - there is not too much fabric at the hem to get tangled around your ankles. It requires a drapey fabric, but not one that is too heavy or you might start to list to one side as you walk or it might pull on the skirt too much. The lining gives you the modesty you might require. All in all, it's a great design!!

Here you can see the overall shape.

Pattern Giveaway in Honor of Fred Bloebaum

On September 4th, the world lost a bright light when Fred Bloebaum passed away after a short, but valiant, struggle with pancreatic cancer. I have a few memories of Fred from twenty years ago when Sewing Workshop was my second home. I took many classes there from Marcy Tilton, Sandra Betzina, Kenneth King, and Candace Kling (to name a few), and I remember Fred as one of the teachers there, always dressed immaculately in the most gorgeous self-made clothing, though I never took a class from her. I remember coveting a cropped jacket she had made, a Vogue pattern it was, in rust. It was to. die. for. I also remember an Issey Miyake jacket she made that I covet to this day - I can still picture it. Her workmanship and taste were impeccable. We spoke once or twice at Sewing Workshop functions, and I remember her as a thoughtful, well spoken, focused, and elegant woman.

I stopped sewing garments for many years and turned my attention to other things. When I returned to sewing, I was delighted to see that, in the intervening years, she had launched a serious sewing business, with her own pattern line, and was traveling the country teaching. Touching so many lives.

I was even more delighted, on returning to my old sewing group, to see that she was now a member. She immediately approached me to introduce herself at the first meeting we both attended - I am a bit shy when it comes to these things, so it would have taken me awhile to approach her. She had that way of really looking at you as she spoke, really giving you her full attention. (Those of you who know me can stop snorting. I was feeling shy that day. :) )

Yesterday I attended Fred's memorial service. It was the most moving service I have ever attended. Fred was so loved and the memorial really captured who she was. It was touching to hear many friends and family speak. Many of her friends had been friends for decades, and most of them highlighted how she valued relationships, how she built and fostered relationships. It was especially touching when her husband and son spoke. It was funny too, for example, when her husband, in an effort to give "balance" to all the praises being sung, said that she had flaws too. For example, "she criticized my driving."

I am so sorry I will not have the chance to get to know her better, but I'm glad that my life intersected with hers, even briefly.

I recently bought a few of her patterns. (I have made a couple of her patterns in the last year, but there were many I hadn't yet purchased.) I thought I had purchased two of them already, but I couldn't find them, so thought I must have been mistaken. And, then I found them. I now have duplicates of two of her patterns.

In honor of Fred (which, by the way, is not short for anything, it's a nickname given to her by a college boyfriend when he wanted to call her Red and she objected to anything so prosaic, so he dubbed her Fred and it stuck), I would like to give these patterns away. One is the Daphne pant, which many sewists I know claim to be one of the best fitting pants ever. The other is the Maia jacket, which I just love. Both patterns run from size 6 to 26. This giveaway is open to international folks, because Fred's designs should be enjoyed everywhere.

If you are a follower of my blog, and would like a chance to own either of these patterns (I will give them away separately), leave a comment on this post telling me which pattern you would like and I will do the random number generator thing. You have until next Saturday, September 25th, otherwise known as Artistry in Fashion Day, to enter (by noon PT). It was at the last Artistry in Fashion day that I first saw Fred after 20 years, so this seems apropos. At last year's AIF, she gave a fashion show featuring her designs and a presentation on her line. I bought a couple patterns from her that day, both of which I have sewn up.

By the way, Fred's patterns are still available from several sources, including sewingpatterns.com. I have not heard if they will be reprinted, but I would not count on it.

Welcome, Marcy Tilton Fans!

I returned from the service yesterday and had received a couple emails telling me that Marcy had featured my blog in her most recent newsletter. What a nice surprise! I love Marcy's designs, and I've been a Marcy fan since she opened the Sewing Workshop, many years ago. And if anyone recognizes me at Artistry in Fashion, please say "hi!"

Finally, I have been quiet on the blog, but I have been participating in Self Stitched September, where I wear clothing I made every day for the month of September. I will post an analysis at the month's end, but you can see my progress on my SSS 2010 Flickr set, which is part of the Self Stitched September 2010 Flick group. I pretty much wear self-made clothing anyway, but for this challenge I have been mixing it up more, wearing clothes that don't often see the light of day, all of which I've made in the last 13 months. It has been a very educational experience.

Au Bonheur des Petites Mains - Pants with Side Tucks (PL000001)

Sorry the pose is a bit weird, but it was hot and I was in a hurry. :) This pic shows the pant silhouette the best.

Time for another Au Bonheurs pattern! I do tend to spread these out, don't I? :)

I made this intriguing design using my beloved black ponte from Fabrix. (I bought 50 or 60 yards of this for $2.39 a yard and resold, for the same price, much of it to fellow sew group friends. I think I sold too much of it, though, cause I'm getting low! ;) )

The pattern is designed for woven fabrics and calls for an invisible zipper. (The photo on the website is made from what looks like a white linen and has an exposed zipper, but the photo on the pattern itself is made from a black fabric with an invisible zipper.)

I made a size 46, which is the largest size on the pattern. To be honest, though, I could have made a smaller size because the pants are fairly roomy through the hips, especially in the ponte. I made minimal changes to the pattern this time - I enlarged the waist and used elastic waistband instead of a zipper. I had to shorten the pants about 2.5", but I did this after construction, since the legs are straight tubes at the hem - the shaping happens higher up. I cut the pants with extra length at the top to ensure that the crotch was long enough and I just cut off the excess before attaching the waistband.

I am wearing these with a new top. This is Teagarden T #5, made with a ponte from Fabricmart. I really like these pants and they remind me, just a bit, of Vogue 8397A, from Marcy Tilton, one of my favorite pant patterns.

For those of you who want to make these, here is my translation of the instructions, though of course I didn't bother with the zipper or facings:

• Sew the tucks on the side bottom (3) by placing the X mark on top of the O mark and fold the tuck towards the top or the bottom, as indicated by the arrows. Secure with pins.
  
• Sew the side bottom (3) to the side top (2), following marks C and D. Turn the seam allowances up and topstitch the width of the presser foot.
  
• Sew the front (1) to the side starting at mark A, turning the corner. Turn the seam allowance towards the side and topstitch the width of the presser foot.
  
• Sew the back top (4) to the back bottom (5), according to marks E and F. Turn the seam allowances up and topstich the width of the presser foot.
  
• Insert the invisible zipper in the center front crotch opening.
  
• Sew the rest of the crotch seam.
  
• Sew the inseam.
  
• Interface the facings. Sew the back facing (7) to the front facing (6).
  
• Sew the facing to the waist, right sides together. Turn the facing to the inside and topstitch the width of the presser foot.
  

I just noticed that this pattern is on sale for 8 Euros (regularly 11.50 Euros), so maybe it will be discontinued soon?