It was blustery and sunny today, making it tricky to get good pictures. But more pictures here.
I traced off the Sewing Workshop Hibiscus shirt over a year ago. I knew that a swing silhouette is not good for me, but I wanted to make it work.
Probably because of this, I traced a medium, which is too small for me, but would also have less volume at the hips. At the time, the only FBA techniques I knew would have added *more* volume at the hips, and would have distorted the lower panels. Unable to solve this problem, I reluctantly put the tracing away.
Last week Martha, of Now Sewing, made her first Shirt of the Month for 2012 and she made a beautiful Hibiscus. This inspired me to pull out the tracing and apply FBA knowledge I have acquired in the year since making the tracing.
This time I chopped off the left and front bodice patterns 1" below the bust point, did the FBA, and re-attached the bodice bottom. Other alterations followed.
I have not been feeling shirt collars lately, so I omitted the collar. Note that I did not shorten the sleeves and they are a good length - this pattern has short sleeves. Also, I widened the upper sleeve, but not the lower sleeve - it is fairly close fitting below the elbow.
Alterations and Modifications:
- 3" FBA.
- Widened the back 5/8" (1-1/4" total).
- Narrowed the shoulders by 1-1/2".
- Widened the upper sleeve by 1-1/4.
- Removed most of the swing shaping, which meant modifying the side seams (front and back), bottom facings, and bottom panels.
- Omitted the collar and stand and finished the neckline with a 1/4" bias band.
Materials:
- A wonderful homespun striped cotton fabric purchased over a year ago from The Spirit of Cloth in San Diego. I'm sad that this store closed before I had a chance to visit again.
- 4 3/4" buttons from my grandmother's button box. They were the only buttons that were the right size, the right color, and that I had enough of. I did not want to go to the fabric store. :)
Conclusion:
I'm not completely sure how I feel about this top. It's less flattering than I'd hoped. I thought that if I didn't make it too long, used an open neckline, and removed most of the swing shaping, that it would be a good top for me, but the pictures say otherwise: it looks ok, but not great.
More Pictures
Can you see the pocket on the lower left? It's hiding amongst the well matched stripes. :)
Okay I'm definitely seeing something different than you are...because I think you made a very flattering shirt. I love how you changed the shirt collar to a more open collar and the fact that you can now add space for your chest without adding width at the hemline.
ReplyDeleteBut I realize that I don't have to wear the shirt, so maybe you should give it a time-out and maybe it will speak more to you later.
You did a FANTASTIC job, Shams! It's SO
ReplyDeleteslimming .. magical result produced from all
your savvy and time, for sure.
I think it's just terrific on you.
~ Joy ~
I found the pocket! :-) I love this shirt on you, and like Carolyn said, the open collar is very flattering.
ReplyDeleteI just want to know how you made a BOD (big old dart) that matched on the stripe. I've very impressed! You did a great job making this pattern your own.
ReplyDeletePersonally I think it's VERY flattering on you! Maybe it's just a bit of a different style than you normally go for, & that's what you're seeing? LOVE the fabric too....and the pocket....and the alterations you did on the sides...yup, pretty much everything about it :)
ReplyDeleteYep, I see it as a good one, love the strip and the hidden pocket. Great call on the collar, sometimes less is the best...
ReplyDeleteI love the asymmetry of it and I think it looks terrific on you.
ReplyDeleteThe fabric is lovely, and your top looks good! Maybe it just needs a little in the "magic closet."
ReplyDeleteWonderful shirt, shams! And it looks fantastic on you.
ReplyDeleteShams, I had to look at thes pictures several times trying to see what you feel is unflattering on you, but I just ain't seein' it. I love both the color and style on you. And I think it's great with your white pants. Maybe it will grow on you. I am not seeing a dart, is it hiding?
ReplyDeleteThe top is absolutely flattering to you -- wear it with pride! Beautiful colors, too.
ReplyDeleteI have to agree with everyone else--this top is much more flattering on you than you think it is. Love the fabric and you look very good in this turquoise/aqua color. The angles of this pattern are great. I'll have to dig out my copy
ReplyDeleteThanks, everyone. Don't forget I chose the most flattering pics to post. :) Yes, the top has very large darts. I didn't do anything special, beyond my usual dart magic. ;)
ReplyDeleteI was wondering if you could take a picture of that front pattern piece so I can see the angle of the dart. I think it's all in the angle that determines how the stripes will match. And I love that your stripe matches.
DeleteOmigosh, Sherril, I had no idea that the blog now supports interleaved comments! (I saw a comment had been added and couldn't find it!)
DeleteOK, you are going to expose all of my dirty little tricks. ;)
When I draft the FBA, at least this FBA, I draw the line horizontally from the bust point to the side seam. But I do not mark the darts in the fabric. I pin my bust darts on the body. (I generally cut the side seams with enough leeway to make this work.) I also pin the side seams on the body. This is how I get my garments to fit to my liking. (When I pinned the darts, I paid no attention to the stripes.)
I change the construction order so that the darts and side seams are the last (or nearly the last) thing to be sewn. I hold off as long as possible, even if it means I sew parts of the seam.
That is very interesting info. I may need to try changing the construction order and sew darts close to the finish of the garment.
DeleteDon't understand what's not to like. You look fabulous in this shirt. Have you tried it with other bottoms? The colour is amazing.
ReplyDeleteI like this! Excellent use of stripes, and I think you wear it very well. Love the new neckline.
ReplyDeleteOK, I'm not sure why you're not totally in love with this top, because I think it is completely wonderful!! Very flattering, I love the asymmetrical shaping at the lower hem, and that double layer at the back is a great feature too. Lovely!!
ReplyDeleteI like what you did with this top. I think it is flattering and your FBA method seems to have worked well
ReplyDeletesham, beautiful work..I love the twist you make on your creations. very creative
ReplyDeleteYou sew things that I'd love to. Just found your blog and have spent a good proportion of my afternoon with my mouth open at your skills, in depth write ups and wonderful choices of fabric and garment styles. What an inspiration, thanks.
ReplyDeleteWow, Ruth, thanks for your very sweet comment! It's a journey, that's for sure. :)
DeleteIn the front view it looks like there are still drag lines which indicate the need for a larger dart. Those drag lines and folds of excess fabric at the front armscye are causing your shirt to hike up. Maybe photos from another pattern with no front darts will help you see what I mean:
ReplyDeletehttp://fitforaqueen.wordpress.com/2012/01/11/liberty-and-the-dummy/
Hey MrsMole, thanks for visiting. Yes, I agree that a slightly larger FBA could improve the fit (I can see the drag lines), but that is not my reason for not loving the top. I am just not loving it. Over time I will see if I like it better, once it's been worn a few times. My equivocation is about the style, not the fit.
DeleteSome times we work so hard in the planning and sewing of a garment that when it doesn't make us taller and thinner it is a bummer. Your front panels could be longer dropping below the crotch where the eye is currently being drawn to. If they were longer your eye would also be drawn away from the bust area which looks tight. The front hem is almost saying "drop me to the sleeve hem length or beyond". The blouse is great with panels and all sorts of options for color blocking in the future or using different fabrics like a lace or sheer overlay.The bias panels are eye-catching too!
DeleteWell, I think the back view is more flattering than the front, and I think it has something to do with the length. It's shorter and boxier in front, while the back is long and slim. However, it's beautiful in the stripes and in all ways a wearable shirt. Maybe if you fuss with the front you'll like it better. I found the pocket and was VERY impressed.
ReplyDeleteI really like how you made this. I've only seen it on the model and I'm glad to see how great it looks on you with the alterations you made. I had cast this one out of my world of possibilities as it might make me look boxy, but on you it doesn't at all. It's very fun.
ReplyDeleteI love this shirt on you! The color is wonderful and I love the line of the stripes and hem point. I hope you get lots of wear out of this shirt because it looks great.
ReplyDelete