Thursday, August 2, 2012

Teagarden Twist - Front Zipper

My most used TnT (tried and true) pattern is Sewing Workshop's Teagarden T. I've made at least 13 of them, in different colors and patterns. It is my version of a t-shirt and perfect for my large-busted-but-small hipped figure. The reason this pattern works so well for my figure is that it uses underarm gussets. I love gussets. I wish more patterns used them. It's a great way to add bust room without bloating the rest of the pattern.

I've now started playing with the pattern – mixing it up. For this version, I used a doubleknit fabric from Marcy Tilton and I added a zipper at CF. Because this fabric is a fairly stable doubleknit, I added 1" to CF when I cut it out, for an increase of 2", in the front only. In fact, I placed the front of the pattern along the selvedge when cutting it out. The resulting top fits just right.

I finished this top a couple weeks ago, but it's been almost relentlessly foggy and cold, so I wasn't impelled to get outside and take pics. It's hard to believe that 30-40 miles away it's 90 plus degree weather, when here it's in the 50s and 60s. Micro-climates galore.

The zipper is a very nice one from Zprz that I purchased two years ago at PIQF.

At first I was planning to use one of my great striped zippers, and I auditioned it before I even cut out the top. I liked it and was prepared to use it.

But when I had the top to the point where I was ready to insert the zipper, I pinned in the striped one and took a mirror picture. I didn't like the effect. From a distance, the black and white stripe merged into grey and the result was bleh.

The striped zipper is pinned to the top, and I left a lot of the tape showing. After seeing the photo, I decided to use a black zipper and to leave less of the tape showing. (Note to self, clean bathroom mirror.)
Oops, I didn't notice that the top is a bit skewed on the hangar, as evidenced by the crooked CB seam.
Closeup of the great zipper.
No comment.

Oh, I will mention that these pictures are the first I've taken since receiving some new bras. It feels like I'm wearing a vise, so it must be working. ;)

73 comments:

  1. Great top! The black zip is definitely the correct one to use.

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  2. I love your top! Looks great.

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  3. haha! Gussets? I've been on the lookout for a pattern that includes these - they've piqued my curiosity. I shall have to try.
    And there ain't nothing like a new bra to lift the spirits. Or other things. It seems every time I go to get fitted, they've got some new fangled technology to structurally support our girls. I was blown away when I last bought a sports bra for instance - I was jumping up and down in the change room and my belly was bouncing more than my boobs!
    Back on topic - I'm loving the fabric and the zip front is rather a bit funky :)

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    1. Donna Karan has used them in older Vogue patterns. I tend to collect patterns with gussets. This pattern has a very strangely shaped gusset.

      Your sports bra sounds like magic!

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  4. Wonderful top, the zip and shaping at the neck looks great.

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  5. This fits so beautifully on you and very flattering. Amazing what a little engineering can do to our girls, isn't it?

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  6. You sexy beast, with your zip down the front!! That is a really nifty top - the zipper adds a certain je ne sais quoi!

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    1. lol! Shannon, your comment ended up in my spam folder. Thanks!

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  7. You look wonderful in your new top

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  8. Fabulous! I LOVE that pattern also. I think I've "only" made it about 8 or 9 times, so you have me beat! :)

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    1. It's hard for me to find a top pattern as flattering as this one, Linda. I look forward to making other versions of this. :)

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  9. Great top, that fabric is gorgeous, good call on the zipper.

    Sorry about the vise you are wearing, but you (the girls) look better (perkier).

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    1. Thanks, Elle. I thought my old bras were still serviceable, but maybe not.

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  10. Such a great top. I've never tried a top with underarm gussets. I'm definitely adding this to my list.

    Can I ask the bra source?

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    1. Thanks, Kimberly. It's La Mystere bra, purchased from Bare Necessities.

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  11. In this combo of the right design and the right bra for your figure, you look AMAZING!

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  12. What a super top/jacket. Could serve as both, I imagine. I don't need a gusset for my bust, but I sure could use one for my rear! I need to work on that.

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    1. LOL, Gwen. It seems to be one or the other for most of us, Gwen! But it does mean that you can look great in a wider variety of tops than I can. :)

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  13. Love the top, what a great job with the zipper, and it is very flattering. That pattern is one I want to get, but I think it is no longer available....Anna

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    1. It is OOP, Anna, but I'd contact Linda Lee at the Sewing Workshop. Maybe she'll make it available, as a download, perhaps. Or watch etsy/ebay for a copy. I wish I had extras!

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  14. Looks fabulous, Shams! I quite like the look with the zipper. Hmm, what other patterns might be tweaked with a zip?

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    1. Thanks, Margy! Any top that has a CF seam (or that can be tweaked to have a CF seam) and a round or v-neckline, is a natural for adding a zipper.

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  15. Wonderful as always! You posted at one time how to do a FBA for the Teagarden and I'll be damned if I can find it. Would you guide me to it?

    Thanks,
    Harriet

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    1. Thanks, Harriet! No, in fact I never have done an FBA on the Teagarden. I didn't need to! In fact, most non-busty women don't like the Teagarden precisely because it is so roomy in the bust. It's perfection for me!

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  16. Love the zipper. Easy in and oh so easy out!

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  17. Your creativity is a constant inspiration to me... I'd never have thought of a zipper for the Teagarden T. What a great idea! Now I am thinking about a Teagarden T jacket, maybe made from a heavier knit than I would usually choose.

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    1. Thanks, Alison! Yup, this one could be worn as a lightweight jacket, because the knit is heavier than my usual rayon lycra. I love this pattern. :)

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  18. Shams, hi! Great call on the zip choice and your rendition of this T. I love this pattern, especially the gussets for fit. Have been searching the Teagarden T online with no luck. Am I blind or is it OOP? BTW, I went to My Intimacy in NYC and was fitted in a new bra. Geeeesh . . . I'm officially a 34 H and I thought my recent Macy's fitting for a 36 DDD was extreme. Any advise on how to wash/dry my pricey new bras and what's the best soap/detergent?
    PS Have lots of fabric to show for my time in the garment district!

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    1. Hey, Wendy! Glad to hear your trip to NYC was a success!

      I just throw my bras into the washing machine with regular detergent. I do not dry them. I "mold" the cups and hang or lay out to dry. I try to avoid washing them too often. I'm currently in a 36H, so I understand!

      Yes, the Teagarden is OOP. But you might contact Linda Lee at the Sewing Workshop to see if you can score a copy. Or look on ebay/etsy.

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  19. I love the combination of fabric and pattern here. The zipper is a great addition. Your girls look so much perkier. That and they make your upper torso look narrower. I can see why you have made this so many times!

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  20. Another stylish top -- love seeing what you're up to!

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  21. Very flattering top! And the girls look positively perky ;-) I agree that the black zip was a good choice. Gussets? I think I need to check out this pattern! I'm thinking they would help with the opposite issue - broad back in that area....

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    1. Thanks, JillyBe! That is interesting. Also, the back of the top falls on the bias (it's cut from a single pattern piece), which might be nice for a broad back.

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  22. You are so right, Shams. The new bras are definitely doing their thing. Congratulations on that! Your top looks perfect on you and so proportioned. You have found the perfect pattern/underpinnings for your shape. I strongly agree about the zipper; it would be wasted in this fabric.

    Many thanks for your details included in all your posts.

    Karendee

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    1. Thanks, Karendee! I'll probably make it another 20 times. :)

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  23. terrific; it looks great! and I agree with your zipper choice...as an old magazine editor, I still use the "across-the-room" visual test (used to use it for layouts/covers, now I use it for fabric combos).

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    1. Thanks, Jean! I agree, I used to quilt. I usually use one of those techniques to really see what something looks like. 1) I stand back from the mirror and look without my glasses. This blurs everything and lets me see better. 2) I use one of those magnifying tubes from the hardware store that goes into your door to see people on the other side, but look at a mirror through the reverse end, which reduces. And, of course, 3) take a pic with a camera!

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  24. Really nice - you are quite an inspiration. But I should spend more time sewing and less reading your blog if I want to be able to do anything like what you achieve.:) Those new bras sound uncomfortable.;)

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    1. Thanks, MareeAlison, but you bring up a good point! Less time readin' and more time sewin'. :)

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  25. I'm inspired as ever - that zip makes me flip! And congrats on finding the right "stuff" for the girls, the ones I like always get discontinued and got to start the search again.

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  26. Great jacket. My daughter is struggling with bras right now. She is size 10 (USA 6?) E cup. That is something akin to a Barbie doll!

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    1. I understand, Gail. My youngest has a similar silhouette. I think she's a 32DDD, last time we had her fitted.

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  27. Never thought of putting a zipper in this one, but it is perfect idea. I love this pattern too. I am going to have to try it. I love your blog. Great writing, great pictures, great ideas.

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  28. Your Teagarden tee is enchanting! I love how it looks on you. You have such an amazing design sense. You have to do what ya gotta do, but I'd like to urge you to go for comfort over being squeezed. The joy you elude is palpable when you are comfortable.

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    1. Thanks, Kuby! Well, we'll see how it goes, but I do like the look. What's that saying... Beauty knows NO pain! I don't even own a pair of spanx, but it's probably a similar feel.

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  29. The girls are definitely looking perky. Amazing the difference a good bra makes.
    Love the fabric choice and the zip addition.

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  30. lovely looking top and the girls look smaller than normal - is that the bra too?

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    1. Thanks, Pauline. You know, I noticed that too. I don't know if it's the bra or the print of the fabric. I thought my old bras were working pretty well, but this is a more hoisted look.

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  31. Oh, fun and action shots to boot! I like this alot!

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  32. Beautifully fitted garment as always. I really enjoy your pattern alterations.

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  33. Looking good. The new undergarments are doing their job! Not meaning you didn't look good before, but you know what I mean :) I like the top too.

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    1. I do know what you mean. :) Thanks, Vicki!

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  34. I like the alteration to the Teagarden Tee -- nice work, Shams!

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  35. Great top, and great observations for our beneft, so thsnks once more. BTW, is your lining another knit or a woven (I'm assuming that striped fabric is a lining)? Thank you.

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    1. Hey, Anne! This fabric is a double-knit from Marcy Tilton. The reverse of the fabric is a subtle stripe. There is no lining.

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  36. Very nice fit! Your Teagarden top looks great with the black zipper and printed fabric. Great idea!

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  37. I don't know how I missed this conversation because that top is just amazing! Love, love, love how you changed it up!

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  38. What a difference a zipper makes! Your eye is so effective at finding just the right note.

    Also, I'm stunned at how much use you get out of your Teagarden pattern! Love this iteration!

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