Monday, April 15, 2013

Sewing Workshop Opal Jacket


The Sewing Workshop released the Pearl and Opal jacket pattern just days before Puyallup last month. I really liked the look of both jackets. I decided to make the Opal first, largely because it has less fabric over the bust, so I knew it was a safe bet to be flattering for me.

This is actually a very quick sew, especially if you use a fabric like this viscose/wool boucle (also from Sewing Workshop), which doesn't require seam finishes or hemming. Sewing this fabric is similar to sewing a wool felt, but with texture. It is a very forgiving fabric and is easy to sew, or un-sew, if that should be required.

The design is basically a cardigan style, with cut-on sleeves. (The front sleeve is sewn on with a dropped seam, but it's a cut-on style. There is a center back and back should princess seam, as well. Lots of fitting opportunities.) This jacket is the perfect layer for our chilly, but not freezing, San Francisco weather. (It has been very sunny lately, and, in fact, the sun on the camera caused the glare in these pics, but it is not super warm.)

The interesting twist to the design is a downward angled dart, which starts towards the side seam, near the waist. It ends before it reaches the front edge, which results in a soft, ruffling effect. This jacket works well in a fabric with some drape to it, or the released tuck might stick out stiffly.

I cut out a medium, which is where my high bust measurement (37.5") landed on the measurement chart. I then added a 4" FBA, to match my full bust measurement of 42.5". The fit was spot on. So do not assume that you should ignore the measurement charts on this one, or that there is a lot of ease, or it might be too small for you.

I had the rough muslin mostly constructed before my talk at Cañada last week, so I took it along. During lunch, Ronda and her staff evaluated the fit for me. Ronda ended up pinning out a second small dart, parallel to the primary dart. With that one little tweak, the fit was excellent.

This jacket has no pockets, and I might add an inside pocket for tissues. Because I did not have to finish the raw edges, I cut off the 3/4" from all around the outside edges, except the sleeve hems. I cut off 2" from the sleeve hems, which is normal for my short arms.

I omitted the button closure, as I plan to wear it open. The only other thing I did differently was to top-stitch the seams.

I am very happy with the Opal. It is so quick to sew, has a very nice fit, and features boutique styling. I would also like to make the Pearl, and I was able to try on Ronda's, which is *very* nice. I am sorry I don't have any pictures of it.

56 comments:

  1. This is really cute and looks very nice on you. Fun to see it in this type of fabric--I always love seeing how SW patterns can look so different when made in different fabrics. And I absolutely adore the hat!

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    1. Thanks, Marcy! The hat is by Tess McGuire: http://www.tessmcguire.com/

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  2. Really gorgeous. Does it look more sweatery or jackety in real life? Hard to tell from the pictures.

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    1. I had to really think on this, Elizabeth. It's kind of in between. But it's more sweater-y than jacket-y, I'd say. Kinda. Terri K said, when she made hers, that it has the same style as some expensive pieces she saw at Niemann's.

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  3. The jacket looks really nice on you. Thank you for the information about the jacket pattern. My plan is to make both jackets in the next month.

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    1. I hope you post reviews with pics, Cindy!

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  4. It's gorgeous! And it does show your MUCH smaller self! It seems a little big in the upper arm area, but maybe that's just how it is designed? This is MY red, I will be stealing this from you. ;) and I do love the hat, too.

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    1. LOL. It IS your red, but it's wool.

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  5. Oh, I do love that shade of red! and I generally have a hard time finding it. Your jacket came out so pretty. The fit is spot on and your matching hat makes the perfect outfit. I seldom wear jackets, but I might have to get this pattern; love how that front dart works!

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    1. Thanks, Linda! What's nice about this is that it's not very jacket-y. It's unlined and fairly casual.

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  6. Really great jacket and so cozy for SF weather! I made a medium as well, and did no alterations. I really like the fit of the jackets from this pattern and was thinking of tweaking the pleat on the next one I make.

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    1. Thanks, Terri! I just saw yours today and it's very cute. I'll be curious to see how you modify the pleat.

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  7. The jacket is great and I know I keep repeating this, but I will say it again. YOU LOOK FANTASTIC.

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    1. Thanks so much, Luz Clara! I keep thinking of you moving to Seattle!

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  9. What a fantastic looking jacket! Love it. And I really love that hat!! And the red color of both. You are looking real good. God i wish I could sew!!

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    1. I wish you could, too! We could get into such trouble, Pamela. ;)

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  10. Hi Shams: I'm so glad to see someone review this. I thought it was such a cute jacket when I first saw the pattern pictures from Puyallup. I couldn't wait to order it. In fact, I just finished mine yesterday - in a fabric end from Marcy Tilton -- a nylon crinkled raincoat fabric. It was a little stiff at first, but softened up as I worked on it and applied a warm iron. Mine is gray but now seeing yours I'm inspired to make another in a prettier spring color. YOU LOOK FANTASTIC - and this is a great style on you and wonderful color. Love the hat, too!

    Anyway, I think this is a style of jacket that will flatter a lot of figure types and I'm glad to see you think so too!!

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    1. Thanks, Helen! Yes, I think this piece will flatter most figures. I look forward to seeing what others do with the pattern.

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  11. Totally cute! Love the color and the style looks great on you. And that hat! Love it.

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  12. Oh! This jacket is so pretty on you. I love the dart-into-peplum effect.

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    1. Valerie, I hadn't thought of it that way until you said that. It does have that effect.

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  13. Love the jacket and the matching hat is so cute. Very nice indeed.

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  14. I love that on you! I may need to get that pattern.

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    1. Woot! It's not often I inspire creative Claudine. :)

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  15. I agree with above comments, fantastic jacket and I love the color on you. More brights!

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    1. Thanks, Beth! I'll have to evaluate my fabric stash to see if I have more brights. This red can be hard to find.

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  16. I like this very much. Gotta make time to make this!

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    1. Yes, Nancy, it would be great on you!

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  17. Looks fantastic! I love the shawl collar, very flattering; and it does look beautifully fitted.

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  18. You look fantastic in this especially with the hat! You are really working it!

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  19. What a gorgeous jacket! That fabric sounds to be fabulous. Love the hat!

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  20. SUPER flattering on you! And omegoddess paired with that hat? You are looking hot hot hot!

    And I think I need that pattern. Because I don't have enough jackets. (rolls eyes)

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  21. What a nice new piece for spring! Looks like a perfect weight for changeable weather, and so flattering and versatile. Another winner for Shams!

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  22. Gorgeous. I love it, the colour the style and the hat!!!

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  23. You look beautiful in this color, style, and wearing a hat. Totally beautiful.

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  24. Great look, Shams! Love the color, the style, and the hat too. You look fantastic!

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  25. Gorgeous jacket - that fabric is luscious! And so is the color, and I like your hat, too.
    The line drawing did not inspire me, but your version looks like high-end luxury.

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  26. That looks really fabulous as does the hat. Very chic outfit girl!

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  27. What a great looking jacket and it looks just perfect on you, very flattering. Hey, wear more red!

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  28. That jacket is absolutely adorable. You did an excellent job!

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  30. I'll just pull out my pompoms and join the cheer squad!

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  31. Great jacket style and color choice. I may need to try this pattern!

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  32. This jacket is too pretty for words. The colour is perfect and it speaks more to me than the patteern drawings. Oh, and your hat: love it!

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  33. I love the color of this jacket! Realy cute jacket pattern. You look great in it!

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