Thursday, May 30, 2013

Technique - Inserting Jumbo Zippers


Here's a short and sweet tutorial for inserting an exposed zipper into the hem of a garment. In my case, I put zippers in the hem of a pair of jeans, and also created front angled zipper pockets.

The zippers I used were 1.5" wide and 7" long - the zipper teeth are 3/8" wide. I decided that I wanted to expose 1" of the zipper.

Before you begin, make sure that you have the hem length worked out. Once the zipper is in, it will be *very* difficult to make the hem shorter, for example.

  • Change the order of sewing so that the side seams are completed before the inside leg seam, if you plan to place the zippers on the side seam. Top-stitch the seam if desired. The zipper will be inserted while the leg is flat, before the inseam is sewn.
  • Using a scrap of muslin, draw the zipper opening onto the muslin. The zipper was 7" long, but I drew the vertical lines 8" long, to accommodate a 1" hem. Draw another vertical line, exactly in the center of the first two lines. This is used for positioning the zipper opening onto the garment.
  • Lay the muslin on the outside of the garment. The raw edge of the muslin is aligned with the raw edge of the garment. You can place the zipper wherever you want, but I wanted it on the side seam. Align the center line on the muslin with the side seam and pin in place.
  • Set the stitch length on your machine to a short length, and stitch around the three edges of the outline. (If you've ever made the window for a welt pocket, the process is similar.) The picture below shows both pant legs, one on top of another.
  • Cut down the center of the "window", angling to the corners. Trim away the excess fabric.
  • Press the seams open and turn the muslin to the inside of the pant. Thread baste into place.
  • Pin the zipper into place, making sure it is centered in the opening.
  • Put the zipper foot on your machine and top-stitch into place.
  • Remove the thread basting and hem the pants as normal.

The process for inserting the zippered pockets was similar. In that case I drafted a pocket bag and put the pockets in at a 60° angle.

Before adding the pocket bag

25 comments:

  1. Great tutorial. I love it when there are lots of pictures:)

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  2. What a great resource!! Thank you for doing this...

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  3. Hi Shams,
    Thank you for the very informative tutorial, It is very helpful. Love reading you blog!
    Karen

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  4. Thank you for the tutorial. You are very generous in giving your sewing tips.

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  5. Love your photos! I have altered high end jeans and pants that have these same zippers but they have the zipper pull ending at the hem with a 3/4 inch gap from the zipper tape to the hem edge so the tab is flush with the finished edge. Maybe this is to keep it from catching on anything or dangling on the shoe? Either way it is very eye-catching for sure!

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    1. Oh, that's interesting! A friend sent me pics of her NYDJ pants with hem zippers, and they were like mine. I liked that zipper pull hung down a bit and even thought of hanging a bead from there, but I can see why it might not be desirable.

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  6. Thank you for the tutorial. Very helpful! Very inspirational too.

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  7. Great tutorial Shams, thank you!

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  8. Cool pants Shams and thanks for the tutorial!

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  9. Finally someone with my figure. I stumbled on you by chance from Babs Sewing along the edge who mentioned your letter to Vogue
    Happy day I've been acouring blogs looking for someone with a similar shape and challenges
    Whoopeeeeeee
    Kathryn

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    1. Hi Kathy! Welcome! It's interesting. Our figure type is not that rare in the real world, but I also find it to be somewhat rare in the sewing world! I've always wondered why.

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    2. I'm hoping some sew folks who follow you blog have the same figure and are bloggers themselves.

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  10. I really love your jeans, and those zippers make them look even prettier! Thanks for the tutorial!

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  11. Thanks for the tutorial with great photos! I bookmarked for future reference!

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  12. Shams -- you clearly have a lot of technical skill and you wear it very lightly. Lovely tutorial.

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    1. What a lovely compliment. Thanks, Elizabeth!

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  13. Ooh, thanks for this. It is going straight to my pinterest!

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  14. Zomg-lady you are svelte! The pants look fab and thanks for the tute.

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  15. I found your zip technique very easy and stylish. In my quest to make the perfect fitting tee-shirt I followed your tutorial for a full bust (I'm a 40G) adjustment by adding length in the front and easing knit to fit the back side seam. It worked perfectly and looks so much better than adding a dart. I simply can't thank you enough for the tip!

    Karen

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    1. Karen, I am SO glad you found the tip helpful! I read your comment just before going to bed last night and it really made me smile. :)

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  16. Great tute! I am still in love with that fabric. I wish I could get some. :/

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  17. Great tute, Shams! These jeans are fabulous!

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