Friday, August 9, 2013

Pleated Pewter Raincoat - Vogue 8934


A note about Pam Erny.

The weather here in San Francisco, at least in my little micro climate, has been very fall like: foggy, overcast, chilly, and drizzly. I decided I was ready to make a raincoat! This pattern, Vogue 8934, is Marcy Tilton's new coat pattern which came out a couple weeks ago.

This pattern has a fairly simple silhouette with some nice features. It has a nice stand-up collar and 8 pleats at the hem to pull in the fullness. Another appreciated feature is that the pattern includes an optional lining - I didn't use it on this raincoat, but I could see using it on a wool version.

I had an unusual, double sided, pleated fabric that I wanted to use. It is matte black on one side - the black really absorbs light. The other side is a glittery pewter color. I decided to use the pewter on the outside.

I chose a size small, because the finished measurement for the bust is 44" and my bust is 41". I didn't want to add width, so I did a vertical-only FBA, intending to sew a dart in the side seam. The pattern tissue came to my knee, so I added 6" in length.

Because the fabric is highly pleated, I treated it as a knit and stabilized the shoulder seams and neckline with twill tape. I finished the inside seams by hand, as I didn't want to top-stitch this very sproingy fabric.

I also didn't want to sew buttonholes in this fabric, so I used 4 size 24 snaps from SnapSource in Antique Silver. I also decided not to use the inseam or patch pockets - I wanted to interrupt the columnar design as little as possible - so I put one of my 3D bellows pockets on the inside; it's made from a lining-type fabric with embroidery along one selvedge. I used this same fabric on the hem and the sleeves.

These inside bellows pockets are becoming my trademark!

I intentionally left the sleeves long so I could fold them back and show the reverse side of the fabric. I also sewed the inside collar and the inside front bands so that the black side would be visible when the front is worn open.

I didn't want to use fusible interfacing on this fabric, and the only sew-in interfacing I had on hand was too stiff, so I interfaced the collar and front bands with black silk organza.

I changed the order of construction around so that I could finish the side seams up last. I sewed the underarm seam and about one foot of the side seam (at the hem) early on, so that I could hem both, but I saved the rest of the side seams. I did this because I like to place the darts at the very end. At this point I noticed that I could ease the dart fullness in with this stretchy fabric, so I avoided having any darts. This is typically how I treat an FBA in a knit.

I didn't follow the instructions for hemming the sleeves. Instead I used the same technique used on the hem. This involves attaching a bias strip and turning to the inside. This gives a neat finish and lets more of the black side of the fabric show when I fold up the sleeves.

The coat is a little longer than I intended. I added extra length that I wanted, but the pleated fabric relaxed a bit and it ended up a bit longer. I don't mind this at all. Also, I narrowed the shoulders by 1-1/2", which is typical for me in a Vogue pattern. I checked the shoulders several times before attaching the sleeves and I stabilized the shoulder seams with twill tape. However, once I got the sleeves on and had hand finished the seam allowance, I realized that the fabric had relaxed a bit, despite the twill tape. The shoulders are a bit wider than I intended, but not so much so that I wanted to rip things apart to fix it.

Conclusion:

I loooove this pattern! It's simple, but the collar is perfect. I am not long-necked, but it's just the right height and it doesn't choke you at all. It slightly bows out in a pleasing way in the pleated fabric, but it is designed to stand up straight. I also love the darts at the hem. I finished the coat a couple days ago and have worn it every day since then. I feel so chic and elegant wearing it.

A note about Pam Erny:

Pam Erny, owner and sole employee of Fashion Sewing Supply had a very scary health crisis last week and ended up in hospital. She is now home and recovering. You may know that she sells some of the *best* quality interfacings around. She now has some expensive health bills to pay, so please consider replenishing your stash and ordering some of her interfacings. (I am not kidding, they are superior.) She may be a bit slower than usual in filling her orders, but this will help out a tremendously worthy small business and one of the nicest people around.

I hope you have a great weekend!

Collar open

40 comments:

  1. Fabulous! Another super coat for the Coat Queen...love the pattern, love the fabric, love the look of it on you. And, of course, I love your secret pocket!

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  2. Definitely the Queen of Coats! I really like this coat much better in the longer length than in the knee length on the models.

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  3. HaHa you could certainly say we have drizzle here but only you would be able to whip out a raincoat to take care of the problem! So cool.

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  4. Nice coat. You do have plenty for the SF weather!
    Good idea about how to help Pam and Roger. Feeling helpless and I do know they rely on the income from the interfacing. It must be time to restock!

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  5. I love the collar! If I was in need of a raincoat, I would rush out to get this pattern and order appropriate fabric. Alas, in my part of the world, I seldom need a rain coat or a plain coat for that matter. You have done a spectacular job! Good idea about Pam's interfacing. I'll get an order together.

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    1. Linda, after a summer of rain-rain-rain in NE Ohio, I want to move to where you live! :)

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  6. Beautiful fabric, beautiful coat. Always appreciate your construction details--so helpful! Thanks for the news about Pam and how to be helpful.

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  7. Another stunning coat! Absolutely gorgeous. I was looking at this pattern, but... until I saw your coat, I was not convinced.

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  8. Beautiful coat! I have ordered this pattern and am inspired by your wonderful work to sew this up soon!

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  9. You have been making the most amazing coats!

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  10. Gorgeous fabric for a gorgeous coat!!!! Love it. I'm so jealous of your coat collection. :)

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  11. You make the coolest coats! Love the details you added to make the coat your own...and I agree with Elizabeth you have an enviable coat collection!!!

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  12. What a fantastic raincoat! I agree with all the above, your coat collection is completely awesome! The secret pocket is a fabulous bonus, of course :)

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  13. What a great coat. You are building quite a wardrobe of coats. I have coat envy. Lovely.

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  14. Another beautiful coat. How interesting that the fabric is a knit, it sounds most unusual, I can see why you needed to make another coat with that sort of fabric temptation ;)

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  15. Yummy coat Shams - I had bypassed that pattern in favour of her dress but might reconsider. The fabric is wonderful and you look suitably attired for the San fran climate - sounds very like our Waikato weather at present.

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  16. Wow, the coats and jackets are coming fast and think in San Francisco! Another exquisite addition to your wardrobe Shams. You are on a sewing spree....your closet must be bulging!
    I found Pam's website ages ago but haven't been there recently - please pass on our good wishes for a speedy recovery.

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  17. Beautiful! This coat looks amazing on you. I am going to have to get that pattern.

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  18. There is great specialness here.

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  19. I knew you'd make this!! Love it! I've bought the pattern and have what I think I'll use as the cloth and can't wait to get started. Have to make a bridal veil first for DD. It is beautiful on you!

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  20. Shams, thanks for the note about Pam. You are right -- highest quality interfacing and excellent service.

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  21. Shams, I don't know how you do it, but you've made another fabulous, georgeous coat -- in almost no time flat. Wow, you look stunning in it. And I really appreciate the way you write your descriptions of your thought and sewing processes. Thanks so much.

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  22. Fantastic, both the pattern and your beautiful sewing. Love the fabric and how you put it all together.

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  23. I wonder when the pattern companies are going to wise up and send their designer patterns to a select group of style-savvy sewists like you before they do their photo shoots and publish the patterns?! They are missing out on a bonanza, I think. So many people would be inspired by your version; it would sell out in an instant. The coat is wonderful and you look so chic!

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  24. That fabric is amazing. You're so stylish!

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  25. that is some splendid fabric!!! What a raincoat. And this year I AM GOING TO ARTISTRY IN FASHION.

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    1. YAY! I am so glad that you are coming!

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  26. Shams it is stunning! Here is my 2 cents worth on the coat, which I also made in a pleated fabric. I was a little apprehensive about whether the pleated fabric would grow and grow. As it turns out it didn't. I used a fusible tricot on the placket and on the collar and that worked beautifully. I also treated the shoulder as I do a T-shirt and put a 1" strip of fusible tricot on the back shoulder seam, stitched the seam then pressed both to the back and topstitched, so the shoulder seam can't stretch.

    YES, do make sure the length is where you want it. (my pleated fabric did not stretch like yours). The sleeve is very slightly extended from the shoulder, but is not a dropped sleeve, and the armhole depth is deep enough to layer other things underneath, but it is a good idea to check this along with the length in tissue fitting. I intentionally did not make this coat maxi length because I've found these long coats cumbersome in travel...trips me up going up the stairs.

    I am SO glad you like it, love hearing how people use the patterns.

    Good news, I will be in SF with my French girlfriend and we will go to Artistry in FAshion, I am really looking forward to it...old home week and great shopping!
    Marcy

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    1. Thanks for your reply, Marcy, and your construction tips!

      I agree, the sleeve is perfect for layering, and that's a good tip about the shorter length for travel.

      I am SO glad you can make it to AIF this year!! I will see you there.

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  27. PS...I built in a secret pocket too, just top stitched inside and the pleating hides the stitching.

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  28. LOVE your new coat. The fabric is fabulous, and the weight is perfect for SF. 5 stars! -Wendy

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  29. I have to give you BIG "thank you" for making me realize that my coat-making obsession isn't even CLOSE to a real obsession - I can make LOTS more coats and still not be close to you lol!

    I blew it - I should have asked to try on your coat last night (for size, you know....) you are just rocking every single coat you've made lately!

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  30. Again, you have inspired me. I'm totally going to make this coat and will make it with your ideas in mind. It looks fabulous on you, love everything about the choices you made - fabric, length, everything! And as a side note, I'm loving your hair - looks great too! Thanks for all the tips and ideas!

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  31. I love the back of the coat--it's a real eye-catcher. Once again you have chosen a marvelous fabric to showcase an interesting design, Shams. Great job indeed.

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  32. Shams, you look fabulous, and this coat is an epic success!

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  33. I love those 'bellows' pockets. I've got to go to Detroit this winter and of course, don't have a coat that can handle that kind of winter weather. I have a pattern that I plan to use, but am seriously considering adding your bellows pockets to the inside in addition to the external patch pockets the pattern calls for.

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  34. Many thanks to both shams and Marcy for their helpful hints and details about this wonderful pattern. shams, your version is absolutely TDF.

    I just finished my muslin and I am already in love with it. I cut the muslin short because I was only interested in shoulder/bust fit (perfect, BTW). It seems pretty cool in a jacket length too.

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