Friday, November 22, 2013

Asymmetric Stripey Vest - Vogue 8954


Happy Friday!

I actually completed this piece last Sunday night, but am just now getting around to blogging it. We've (finally) had some rainy weather this week, and it gets dark so early, and it's so cold, that I haven't been as gung-ho about taking selfies.

I was eager to try Marcy's new vest pattern, Vogue 8954, but it took me awhile to settle on a fabric for its maiden voyage. Marcy had mentioned, in her blog post about this vest, that she had made a striped version out of a rayon lycra fabric, so I decided to give that a try. This rayon lycra has been in my stash for awhile and I believe it was purchased locally. It features a very uneven stripe pattern. To be honest, I haven't been in the mood to sew droopy rayon lycra knits lately, and this one is droopy, so I thought it might be a good way to use a fabric that might otherwise languish.

Marcy recommends that, if you want the vest to be less loose, to go down one size, but no more than that. I went down one size and made the Small. It is plenty roomy in the bust, so I did not do an FBA.

I made no alterations to the pattern.

You cut each pattern piece out once, alternating the direction of the stripe, and there are quite a few pattern pieces. For example, there are four pattern pieces on the left and right fronts (which are different from each other). Some of the seams are sewn conventionally, and some of the seams are sewn with reverse French seams, with the seam allowance to the outside. On each front, the top and bottom pieced seam is sewn with a French seam, but the middle seam is sewn conventionally. I serged the raw edges of all "conventional" seams.

This fabric is very lightweight, very unstable, and prone to rippling. Marcy recommended a Sulky product on her blog called Totally Stable Iron-On Tear-Away Stabilizer Roll.

I ordered some Totally Stable, and proceeded to cut many, many 1" strips with my rotary cutter, using the instructions that Marcy posted. I sewed most every seam and hem with this stabilizer, and it worked like a charm. You might be able to achieve the same results with regular paper, but I will definitely be ordering more of this product for my stash.

My little garbage can was full of used-up Totally Stable

Once the vest was finished, I decided that I liked it better open, so I did not use any closures. It has such an interesting front when worn open, with the different angled pieces that hang down, at least in this fabric.

I like this vest, and I was happy with sizing down one size, but there are a couple things I would do differently next time:

  • If I were to make it again in a droopy fabric, I would eliminate the collar. It's difficult to get the collar to lay nicely in a droopy fabric. I think that the collar would be great in a more substantial fabric. (It would be extremely easy to leave off the collar._
  • Given that I wear this open, the one serged seam on each front shows, which I don't love. Next time, I would sew all three pieced seams on each front with a reverse French seam.

And, by the way, did you SEE the entries in Marcy's recent jacket/coat competition???!!!

Ay Carumba, they were FABULOUS! Go and enjoy the visual feast...

I have another garment to show you, but no pics yet. I hope you have a great weekend!

39 comments:

  1. Trendy yet Artistic! I love the use of the black and white stripes (so on trend) with the funkiness of the vest! This is fantastic on you!

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  2. The stripes make a great, interesting piece.. I am so glad that you made this before I started one since I really wanted to see how you handled an fba, or now I know that I don't have to make one. It looks great on you.

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    1. Thanks, Nancy. Yeah, an FBA really wasn't needed.

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  3. Wow! I don't know why it is, but I end up loving your iterations of Marcy's patterns more than even the ones that she herself makes up, and certainly more than the ones on the Vogue pattern photos... another Shams winner this time!!

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  4. I really like your stripe version! Thanks for the tip (from M) about the totally stable. I have some in the stash from my embroidery days.

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    1. Thanks, Linda! Yes, that Totally Stable is totally excellent!

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  5. Love it! These Tilton patterns are so you!

    Love. Love. Love Black & white right now!

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    1. OMG I just looked at the link! WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Amazing coats and jackets!

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    2. Thanks, Mrs Smith! I know, right?!?!

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  6. Wow! Nice vest -- and you are looking terrific!

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    1. Thanks, Pamela! I was just thinking about your trip to St Petersburg. :D

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  7. Shams...here's what kept me from buying this pattern: I am not all that in love with the hugeness of the back that I saw in all the pattern photos. You went down a size, but still the back seems pretty loose. Actually the entire garment still looks generously oversized even though you went down one from your regular size. Are you really loving this vest or are there other fit changes you would make.

    I agree that I'd also so all the seams as french seams. I also wasn't loving the look of the alternating seams.

    I did really like the leather version Marcy posted on her website, but again, the billowy back gives me pause. Any thoughts about reducing that aspect of the garment? Your insights are always enlightening to me.

    thanks,
    Helen

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    1. Hi Helen! Yes, the back has some fullness, but it doesn't bother me. If I wanted to remove it, I would find the center back and fold out a wedge, tapering to nothing at the neck. Because this is pieces in odd angles, it would require some futzing to true up all the seams. It would be a bit fussy, but very doable.

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  8. I wasn't crazy about this pattern when i first saw it, but your version is great.Your's should be on the envelope!

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  9. Ah, most awesome! Love your fabric choice. I have this cut out in a red wool crinkle gauze--hope to get it completed this weekend. Thanks for your insights into the construction, etc. And I, too, was blown away by the creativity, artistry and technical proficiency of the garments contributed to MT's jacket/coat sew-a-long/competition. All gorgeous!

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  10. Terrific look! I agree it looks better open. When will we discover what the hardware store trip was for?

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    1. I fear you will be disappointed, Peggy. I bought supplies for a non-wearable Christmas gift. :)

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  11. I agree with chesneykat...if your version was on the envelope then we could see the cool possibilities! It just takes my breath away! The collar is not adding to the vest, even in the envelope photo...I agree, ditch it next time...you look so good!

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  12. When I saw thid pattern the first time, it didn´t speak to me , but seeing your version..Wow! It a whole diffferent thing!

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  13. I absolutely love this vest on you shams! The stripes, especially the unequal width of them, add to the asymmetry in such an interesting way. Really a conversation piece. Do you think you will make it again?

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    1. Thanks, Mary! I do think I will make it again, but not right away. I have some pressing projects. :)

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  14. Makes a nice statement with the black. And I agree, all those jackets on Marcy's blog were amazing. Lots of talented creative people out there.

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  15. Love your version of this vest. You can sell me anything black and white. This is the best version I have seen and I love how the stripes play. Great job, Shams. I'm off to check that link out for the contest.

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  16. I so completely agree about the coats from the contest...mind blowing amounts of creativity! And then you share this amazement this eve...phenomenally more appealing than the envelope! I love your version & your haircut!

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  17. You are the Queen of Stripes! Great take on the vest...I agree, yours is cuter than the pattern photo!

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  18. I bought the pattern and just realized I need to make it in STRIPES.

    Did you do any stripe placement? The miter on your R front looks perfectly planned and executed.

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  19. It's obvious you put a whole lot of work and a whole lot of yourself in this one. This vest is gorgeous! My hat is off to you for the amount of patience and time it took to do this. All your hard work paid off.

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  20. Love it! I'm certainly going to give this pattern a twirl!

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  21. Well, if you get tired of it, I want it. The back is so fabulous, that I think you should try walking backwards for awhile.

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  22. It's cute - the fabric looks better than I imagined when you described it as "droopy". It looks really nice with that necklace, too.

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  23. You do this funky look so well! I love the stripes!

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  24. As you know, I'm with you on the lost love for droopy rayon knits, but this looks like a perfect way to play with some of those languishing pieces - LOVE the way you angled the stripes!

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