Sunday, November 10, 2013

Skinny Pant Goodness - Vogue 1378


You may recollect my excitement at some of the new Vogue patterns. Specifically the new Donna Karan seamed skinny pants.

The pattern arrived Thursday afternoon. I cut the pattern tissue Thursday evening. I cut the fabric Friday evening. I sewed most of the pants on Saturday. I would have finished, but I also ran to the fabric store, met a friend for a two-hour lunch, took a class at a local ribbon store, and finished reading the second of two books since Friday evening.

In other words, these pants are a fairly quick sew!

This pattern comes in sizes 4-20. (Thanks for the smaller sizes, Vogue!) I like a close fit so, even though my 34" hips indicate that I should sew a size 10, I cut out a size 6. The pattern calls for "rayon spandex or cotton spandex" and you need it to be somewhat stretchy. The envelope describes the pants like this:

Tapered, below waist (front) pants have seam detail, overlapped lower sides, and topstitching. Close fitting, no side seams.

The pants are constructed with lapped seams, so the raw edges show on the front. Therefore, you want a doubleknit for the pants, but it needs to have some stretch to it. Right now my stash is fairly low on bottom-weight double-knits, such as ponte, so I used my favorite fabric for testing pants, some black ponte. (And my stash on that is getting low, too!) I'm sorry that it is harder to see details in black.

Constructing the lapped seam

Besides the interesting seaming on these pants, the hem is interesting. There is a vertical opening on each leg. The opening is embellished with 4 rows of topstitching. If you wanted to sew these pants with conventional seams, you could do that, however there is one inset corner that would be a bit tricky. In an overlapped seam, this is very easy. (If you are comfortable with sewing inset corners, it would not present a problem.)

Constructing the lower leg

Completed legs

These pants have no side seams and no pockets.

I made no alterations to these pants, save two. First, I made a flat butt adjustment and shortened the crotch length. Second, I am 5'5" and they were quite long in the leg. They have a 1" hem; I cut off 3.5" from the bottom before finishing with the 1" hem. The resulting vertical opening is shorter, but it is fine. However, if you were much shorter than I am, you might want to remove at least some of the length from higher up, so you wouldn't lose the opening entirely.

I wore these out this morning and I am loving them! I do not want to take them off. I can see making them again, and maybe using regular seams. A great pattern!

I very much enjoyed the class I took at the ribbon store, though I was kind of all thumbs for quite a bit of it. Sandra Ericson, of Center for Pattern Design gave a class on creating woven beads. Sandra describes it as a Swedish technique (often done using birch bark ribbon) but it was very origami like. I need to practice more on some cheap paper before locating some nicer supplies. I hope to show you more later.

More Pictures

Is that a teal thread?

Got it!

Pattern

67 comments:

  1. I'm so happy to hear that these are a quick sew, because they're next on my list! They look great on you - hope I have as much success :)

    ReplyDelete
  2. You beat me! Got mine cut out and then started a knitting project. Thanks for the tips and yours look great. I really need to restock on good black pants fabric too. Do you order yours?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Peggy! I had purchased bolts of black ponte from a local store when they had it for $2 a yard, but that source has dried up. From now on, I guess I have to mail order. :)

      Delete
  3. Hope you had time to breath and eat during that busy 48 hours! When you set your mind to something brilliant things always are the result ~ love the pants ... J

    ReplyDelete
  4. Those pants look so good on you! Well, the whole outfit looks so good on you! You have been so energetic this weekend. I, on the other hand, a real slug.....

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Linda. I'm feeling sluggishness at the moment. :)

      Delete
  5. Great looking pants/outfit! I love your color combo and I'll bet Margy would like it, too ;-) Did you make the red sweater you're wearing?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Mrs K! Both Margy and I love the red/black combo. :) No, I purchased that vest, though it is handmade.

      Delete
  6. Hahaha, Mrs. K...you know me too well!
    Those pants are fabulous, Ms Shams, I LOVE the seaming! and they showcase your gorgeous gams...

    ReplyDelete
  7. You look wonderful, dahling, and the pants look great too!

    ReplyDelete
  8. I love the entire outfit. Did you knit the cardi? If so, what is the pattern?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. No, badmomgoodmom, I purchased that from a vendor at the PenWAG fashion show. She also had a booth at Artistry In Fashion this year.

      Delete
  9. The pants are definitely you but I am once again impressed by how much weight you've lost! Congrats on the pants and the weight loss!

    ReplyDelete
  10. A real winner, shams. Love the seaming and details. Yours are so much better than those on the pattern envelope!

    ReplyDelete
  11. The pants look great! I love the seam detailing and the fit. I have a similar figure type (though you are much slimmer!) and it is hard to get pants that fit slim hips. Seems all the ready to wear folks think all woman have round hips and butts. I'll have to try this pattern.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. SO true, Pam!! You might need to size down like I did.

      Delete
  12. The pants look great! I love unusual seaming on a pattern like this :) Very funky.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Lurve these pants. The innovative seaming makes them so chic. And you look terrific in your red and black outfit!

    ReplyDelete
  14. I too have a similar figure to you (but 30 lbs heavier) so I'm glad I've ordered this pattern. Yours look fantastic Shams! So, would all the great seam lines work as regularly sewn seams and not overlapped?

    Karen

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Karen! Yes, they would work as regular seams, however, there is an inset corner you would have to sew. This is easier to handle in the lapped seam, since you just lay one pattern piece over the other and top-stitch. But it's very doable.

      Delete
  15. Those are fabulous pants, I like the construction method and the results. Another pattern added to my must-have list.

    ReplyDelete
  16. Those pants suit you to a T. The whole outfit looks terrific!

    ReplyDelete
  17. I may have to get this pattern. They look wonderful.

    ReplyDelete
  18. I love those pants! I too am similar to your shape (although again a heavier version) and I love wearing skinny pants so may now need to investigate these. You look gorgeous in them.

    ReplyDelete
  19. Wow! You are tiny :-) These pants look great on you. Sadly, I am the upside down version of your figure type. I am always coveting skinny pants, but they never look quite "skinny" on me LOL! I am also impressed at how quickly you got these made!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Nancy. Yes, these might not work for a pear shape.

      Delete
  20. Great pants! Love that pattern?Shams can I ask you,does the ponte you use pill? If not what is the fiber content and where do you buy it?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Diana, no this ponte does not pill particularly. I bought it locally, the fiber content was not listed, and it's no longer available. I have bought a variety of ponte fabrics from a variety of sources. In general, I prefer ponte with a higher rayon content and little-to-no polyester.

      Delete
  21. I love the styling on these pants but fear the may not be for the pear- shaped! I agree with Carolyn they really show off your slim frame

    ReplyDelete
  22. You always make me look at patterns and think about my wardrobe differently. I have nothing in my closet like these pants, so I'd likely not think about picking up the pattern. But, now that I've read so much about it and seen your version, I'm quite curious and wondering if I could pull them off. I think that's a sign of a successful make!

    ReplyDelete
  23. Love the detailed seaming in these pants... but of course ;) When the pattern was released I was put off by the lack of side seams for adjusting as I also have slim hips, so your review has been very helpful as always and your look amazing (as always too). Thanks for taking the time to write such a detailed blog post.

    ReplyDelete
  24. Thanks for showing us this pany. I'll make a pair now. Love the seams and fit!

    ReplyDelete
  25. These pants are very flattering on you. Great outfit and great sewing.

    ReplyDelete
  26. Terrrrrrrific look and review- thanks. Can't wait to see your wonderful, wonderful new pantalonies in person. Thinking the topstitch could be done with a triple coverstitch in one shot and either side would look good. I'm eager to see some curvy-girl reviews since I'm very much on that end of the scale ; )

    ReplyDelete
  27. Such a great job on the pants, you look terrific in them! I am curious about the ribbon class, have not heard of this before. Would love to get more info. Thanks, Anna

    ReplyDelete
  28. Absolutely perfect for you. Heather

    ReplyDelete
  29. Wow, nice pants. I wondered why you would buy the pattern when you could just put some seams in other skinny pants, but I can see now that this is a really interesting pattern with nice details. How did you decide to start with the smaller size? Did you tissue fit or just measure?

    ReplyDelete
  30. They look so nice...the entire outfit major cute on you!

    ReplyDelete
  31. Very interesting trousers! The pattern looks great! And it was a good idea to cut a smaller size!

    ReplyDelete
  32. These look better on you than on the model!

    ReplyDelete
  33. Thank you for such nice photos and suggestion on that pants pattern. BTW love the red vest...did you make it too!

    ReplyDelete
  34. These pants are super cool! I love all of the seaming details and the 4 rows of topstitching. Wow! If I didn't have 5 pairs of similar pants in my wardrobe already -- all in black, of course -- I would definitely get this pattern (I love this pant style)! Great outfit as well -- love the necklace.

    ReplyDelete
  35. Have you ever posted on the "flat butt adjustment?" I would love to learn about that pattern adjustment.
    Deborah

    ReplyDelete
  36. I searched a bit on your blog and found these instructions: " I removed a bit from the back crotch point, straightened the CB curve, and scooped a bit from the bottom of the back crotch curve." How about a post that has photos of these changes...I really need help.
    Deborah

    ReplyDelete
  37. Great pants - good looking outfit. Love the sweater also, great color
    Marcia

    ReplyDelete
  38. Loved seeing your pic on Marcy Tilton's new website section on pairing her fabrics with her patterns. You are becoming quite famous!

    Karen

    ReplyDelete
  39. Love the seaming! Great pants.

    ReplyDelete
  40. Your time management skills are amazing and you ended up with a great pair of trousers. Going to have to get this pattern myself!

    ReplyDelete
  41. I love these...I'd not have even considered them from the pattern...yours are much nicer.

    ReplyDelete
  42. This is a wondeful outfit on you. Great pants!

    ReplyDelete