Sunday, June 8, 2014

The Rambo Project - Burda 7018


Once I got past my resistance to cutting into the turban fabric, this Rambo project was a lot of fun!

To catch up on this project, read Seamstress Erin's blog.

I especially liked the stripes at each edge of the turban. The striping pattern was asymmetric, and I immediately knew that I wanted the stripes to go down each sleeve. This meant that the stretchy direction, for the sleeves, would go up and down the arms, rather than around, but I decided that it was a worthwhile tradeoff. I cut the rest of the jacket so that the stretch goes around the body.

I wanted a denim-style jacket, so I spent quite a bit of time looking at various pattern options. There really aren't that many denim-style jacket patterns that have all of the features that I like, but I finally settled on a Burda "youth" pattern, 7018. (If I'd had more time, I would have ordered the Style Arc Stacie jacket, which has all of the features I wanted.)

Because I had very limited yardage, especially in length, I had to make quite a few changes to the pattern, as well as my usual alterations:

  • I had to eliminate the collar.
  • I had to eliminate the bottom band.
  • I omitted the pockets and pocket flaps in the front yoke seam or, as Margy called them, the "boob arrows".
  • I had to shorten the front bands, so I shortened the jacket at the hem but I also lowered the neckline about an inch.
  • I had to finish the neckline with a bias band, cut from a stretch plaid fabric with a Burberry feel to it.
  • Because this is a very stretchy fabric in the long direction, I stabilized all horizontal seams with twill tape.
  • I wanted to make a welt pocket using the stripe, but I didn't have enough stripe left for two welt pockets, so I made one pocket, which I drafted. I put the welt pocket on the perfect vertical, since that is the direction where the fabric is completely stable. I used the plaid fabric for the pocket bag.
  • I did a princess seam FBA. (Of course.)
  • I narrowed the shoulder by about 1/2". (Less than usual.)
  • There is a lot of sleeve cap in this pattern, so I cut it down a bit.
  • I had to piece the back yoke. When I cut it out, it slightly extended into a stripe, so I sewed the seam allowance so that the stripe is to the outside. (I love serendipitous details like these.)
  • I cut the two-piece sleeves to be as long as possible, which is about 3/4 length. I left the sleeves unhemmed, using the fabric selvedge.
  • I hemmed the jacket with a bias binding, also cut from the plaid. Because the fabric is so stretchy in the horizontal direction, I sewed the hem completely by hand, including attaching the binding.
  • I finished all raw edges. Some I turned under and sewed by hand, and others I finished with bias binding.
  • I wanted oversized, decorative buttons, which I purchased at Britex. I sewed them on using silk buttonhole twist from Japan (also from Britex). The jacket closes with a snap.
  • I wanted to topstitch the seams with topstitching thread, but I couldn't find my stash of topstitching thread and JoAnn's was out of cream and white, so I used two regular threads through the needle.

Due to a lot of handwork, this jacket took a long time, but I really enjoyed the process. It's very comfy to wear and I expect get a lot of wear out of it this spring, and into summer.

Buttons and topstitching

Inside of front neck. You can see the bias neck finish, the pieced back yoke (with the striped seam on the outside), and the twill tape stabilizing the horizontal seams.

Inside out

I liked the selvedge of the plaid fabric, so I put it on the outside when I pieced the bias binding.

Welt pocket

Inside of welt pocket

All that remains of the turban.

Thanks so much, Erin, for inviting me to participate in this fun challenge!

53 comments:

  1. Projects like this can be so much fun! I love what you made.

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  2. Wow - how fantastic is that jacket and to think it was a turban. Great job

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    1. I can't believe that was a turban, either! It looks great on you!

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  3. Love this jacket on you! And such a pleasure seeing it (and you!) in person yesterday!

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  4. Not much to say except, "I LOVE IT!" Just super!

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  5. I'm crazy about that plaid bias binding with this turban fabric. It would have looked equally good on the outside. What a cute jacket you ended up with.

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  6. Really nice jacket! Love the asymmetric sleeves and selvedge edge showing on the binding.

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  7. It's great, and you look so young!!!

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  8. Wow! You have such creative vision, as the jacket looks nothing like the pattern, just a million times more appealing to me and you wear it so well. Fit is excellent and the finishing details are perfection. You look stunning in it, also. Just beautiful! This is one of my favorite garments you've created!

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  9. what a fantastic transformation! the inside looks as good as the outside, are you sure it isn't actually reversible? I know, the pocket is not dual access, but the combination of the plaid and the stripes is genius

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  10. What an excellent use of this turban fabric! I love it, from the clean style lines to the stripe placement to the plaid binding. It's just great, and you look fab in it!

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  11. Great jacket! Love all the little extras you put into it .As. usual, you didn't disappoint with this project .

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  12. GORGEOUS!!!! What a wonderful use of the turban fabric! I'm so glad that you participated in this project.

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  13. The proportions of this jacket work so well for you. I love the touches of plaid. Brava.

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  14. Ah, fabulous! you certainly used the fabric to perfection...and no "boob arrows"!
    heh heh heh ....

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  15. Super fabulous!! Your creativity is truly amazing!

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  16. Super creative work! Definitely a winner ... J

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  17. It's great. I like the striped sleeves and contrast binding in particular.

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  18. Wow. This is a great jacket. Hard to believe it was once a turban. You have done a terrific job.

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  19. Very creative and an excellent use of the Turban. Love the details and what fun to have such a lovely jacket with such impressive provenance hanging in ones own closet :)

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  20. The turban translates so wonderfully into garments, I'm quite pleasantly surprised! It looks great :) Random note - I showed these photos to my beau who is a hardcore Rocky fan (I know, I know) - and without even blinking he picked them as being from Rocky III. ha!

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  21. Fabulous. Every detail is perfect!

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  22. This jacket is another fabulous success! Love how the lack of tuban fabric spurred your creative decisions like the use of the perfect plaid fabric.

    Karen

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  23. Great jacket! I love the placement of the stripes and color variation.

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  24. Wow! That really was cutting it close with the yardage! What a lovely jacket though. You are just so flippin' creative!

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  25. I'm stunned by how you continually produce makes that are so incredibly awe inspiring to me. This vision you have, in combination with you sewing excellence/expertise is always phenomenally intriguing to me. Each one of your creations is like a good read...I want more! I've also started realizing my way past the way the pattern comes...making some little changes here and there. One day when I'm a grown up sewer I want to be able to create like you :)

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  26. Exceptional in every way...wow!!!!

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  27. I think everything I would say has already been said. Wow!
    Love the plaid with the turban fabric.

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  28. I was lucky to see this in person, it is fantastic and quite amazing that you made it from that piece of fabric. Also seems like a pattern worth repeating.

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  29. Great job in using the "Rambo project" head pieces. I've been following a few bloggers. I love what you've done - extremely creative and a great addition to your wardrobe
    Marciae

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  30. It's gorgeous! I love seeing how you handle fabric challenges; you always come up with inspiring results. I have this or a similar pattern in my Burda magazine stash and I will definitely use yours as inspiration to make a casual jacket. I don't need nor want more formal jackets and this is certainly a good place to start.

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  31. Nice jacket and love your plaid binding - a nice touch.

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  32. Darned good job! Love those striped sleeves - that was a great idea. Love the placement of all the fabric. Can't believe you got this out of a turban:)

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  33. i cannot BELIEVE this transformation!!!!

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  34. A former turban, wow! Great transformation.

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  35. WHOA! I'm so impressed! I have no idea how you made this happen out of the turban!!!!!

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  36. an amazing transformation! I particularly like your attention to details--the use of the selvedge is inspired.

    And in all honesty, the pattern envelope is so dowdy. Who would have guessed it could actually be a great little jacket?!

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  37. Fab. U. Lush. As always you are so inventive with the fabric. I'm amazed you got a whole jacket out of that turban. And the plaid bits are so perfect I almost wish you'd put them on the outside!

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  38. Wow, this is such a special piece! I love all the details, hand stitching, and plaid accents on the inside. I'm really impressed that you got an entire jacket out of that turban. Between the origin of the fabric and all the work you did to create the jacket, I feel like this is what sewing your own clothes is all about! Well done!

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  39. Wow! This is awesome! What a great use of the challenge fabric! Very impressive!

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  40. Geez you're clever! All the little details, fabulous.

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  41. This is the perfect jacket as far as I'm concerned. Beautifully sewn, great fabric and clever redesign.

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  42. You really did the turban justice. I just love the jacket on you and hope you find lots of occasions to wear it and brag about what it was in its first life!

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  43. great jacket. love the added interest the uneven stripe gives to it.

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  44. What a great summer jacket with fab details!

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  45. Love it_ especially the bias trim!

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  46. Your work on this jacket is impeccable. I love the finishing on the inside and your brilliant use of the turban.

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  47. Great job! I saw this in person and the finishing is truly impeccable -- hard to believe it started out as a turban! The buttons are so cool too.

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  48. You are so amazing! I always look to see if there is a post by you! You have inspired me so many times!
    This jacket is just one more inspiration!

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