Monday, October 20, 2014

Capes Galore


TOC:

Have you noticed how capes are "in" at the moment? This is not the first fall/winter season where they've been featured, but this is the year I am noticing them more, especially worn by women in downtown SF, or on the subway.

I've been wanting to make a cape for awhile, though capes can be tricky to wear. Depending on the style, a seat belt can be a challenge, for example, as can a shoulder-strap- or cross-body purse.

I've been thinking about different styles of capes. You can go to any e-tailer, like Nordstroms.com, and enter "cape" into the search field and see capes galore.

For this little survey, I reviewed cape patterns on ebay and etsy. Capes (and ponchos, which are similar) were a big trend in the 70s—"my" high school era—but capes are well represented in all decades since home sewing patterns have been available.

A cape is basically a body tent and the challenge with a cape is: what to do with the arms and hands? It seems to me that most capes fall into one of three categories, vis-à-vis hands:

The Royal

This style of cape hangs on the shoulders and has no accommodation for hands.

That means that the wearer's hands have to emerge from the center front. This form of cape is used more for drama (opera, weddings, costumes) than for warmth in polar climates. This cape is a bit fussy to wear, but worth it for the drama, perhaps...

[Let's pause one moment for a quick trip down memory lane: When I was a teenager in the mid 70s, my next door neighbor had an older daughter who was engaged. I will never forget her gown. For her December wedding, she designed something special: a full length white velvet cape with a dramatic hood, lined in red and trimmed in white fur. It was cut longer in back, forming a train. I don't recollect that she wore anything underneath, as it did close, but there must have been some short of sheath, as shown in the following YSL ensemble. My teenaged heart went pitter patter for this gown and the idea of a December wedding, which I had never heard of before.]

Examples of this style of cape include:

Yves Saint Laurent


These patterns often feature a ruana view, which is worn more like a stole

The Poncho

In the poncho style, the arms emerge from under the hem. For this to work, the cape is generally shorter on the sides, or all around.

Another trip down memory lane: My mother, an accomplished seamstress, made a short cape from white faux fur back in the 70s. The cape buttoned and I wore it to several events (which I can no longer precisely remember).

Examples of this style include:

Fabulous neckline!


The Red Riding Hood

In the first two styles, there is no modification to the pattern for arms and hands. In this style, some form of slit allows the wearer's hands to emerge, while keeping the cape closed, if desired. The slit may land in a seam, or it might be a free-standing welt.

Depending on the location of the slit, this can be the hardest style to wear, as it can greatly limit mobility. At least that's what I remember from back in the 70s...

Designers seem to love this style. Examples include:

Pucci!

Givenchy!

DKNY (current pattern)

I love how the hand emerges from the welt and then slides into a patch pocket.
A clever detail.

Style Arc design (current pattern)

Interesting Variations

I saw a couple interesting cape variations that deserve special mention.

This cape has cuffs, forming a batwing silhouette.

This pattern claims that you can wear it as a cape OR a skirt!
I wonder how feasible that is in real life...

What to Choose?

Have I chosen what kind of cape to make?

Why, yes I have. :) I hope to have something to show soon, but I will say that mine fits into the "poncho style" category.

What about you? Is a cape in your future? Or maybe you acquired one in the last year or two? Or maybe you were "caped out" in the 70s and can't go there again?

31 comments:

  1. Great research on cape patterns. Have to say, I never really thought a lot about them, although I did wear a crocheted poncho in the 70's. Love all the pictures. - Heather

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    1. Thanks, Heather! I wore a crocheted poncho in the 70s, too. Also, my mother crocheted me one of those vests in the 70s. It was a golden color. ;)

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  2. Thanks for pulling all this together- wonderful! Eager to see yours Shams. My cape-in-progress is a voluminous poncho and a proportion challenge for me at barely 5'4". I hope dramatic gusts of wind will save me from looking like a tent collapsed on me.

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    1. Yes, some cape styles are a lot of fabric which can be tricky to manage. My cape is much less voluminous and will hopefully be wearable.

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  3. Years ago Sharon I made V8147. I have always loved capes and I need one for the upcoming winter. Having lost some weight since last year I want a more fitted one like V 8776 or V1322. Can't wait to see yours.

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    1. That is a big and dramatic cape, Mary Glenn! I wish you posted your makes so I could see your newer version. :)

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  4. Thanks for this retrospective. Great fun. I've never had one, but 11yo DGD desperately wants one. It's probably in my sewing future.

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  5. How many capes can one own?? :) I recently made a cape that I really love. Sinplicity 1775 (the pattern envelope is hideous). It is shorter at the sides for your arms to emerge; and it's closed off with buttonholes. It has a center back seam and a belt so there's some shaping. I LOVE it! But the brand spankin' new New Look collection has a cape that I WANT! :)

    I missed it in the 70s so I can totally do it now, right?! ;)

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    1. Why, yes you can do it now! :) By the way, Nakisha, I just checked and saw that you won 2nd place in the FM competition! Many congrats! (I actually think that the 2nd place price is much better than the first place prize!)

      Anyway, I checked out the Simplicity pattern you made. That does look like a good one. Vogue had a designer pattern similar to that, if I recall, which is now OOP.

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  6. I made Vogue 8674...a cape over a vest pattern (with bust cup sizing, no less) and hardly ever wore it before I gave it away. Unlike a much loved ruana from Libery plaid wool, the cape was too much fabric that kept getting in my way. My real regret is that I used some wonderful fabric in that hybrid...but I hear that they are still selling fabric in a few stores:-)

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    1. I just looked it up, Jane. It is nice, but it does look like it might be fussy to wear. Capes are tricky, I tell you.

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  7. I made a hooded cape last year (actually for the FM competition) but have always felt a little overwhelmed by it when I wear it... and yes my arm mobility is minimized. I am making a more of an "accessory" sort of cape with a belt this year where it's less of a coat and more of a quick throw on item. It's a wool coating fabric but am waiting for it to come in the mail to get a better sense of it's drape and if I want interlining for added warmth. I think with my sort of pear shaped figure I will like the cinched waist and will feel less overwhelmed.

    I am really interested in seeing your cape!! Hurry and post it :)

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    1. Oh, that's right, Kathy! I agree that a cinched waist would be lovely on a pear shape and increase wearability.

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  8. I recently purchased Vogue 2934, which is a vintage remake very much like 8112

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    1. (Accidentally hit "publish" too soon) I wanted to add that I enjoyed your very thorough review of capes. I never thought much about the different styles or wear-ability of them. Looking forward to seeing your cape.

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    2. Hi Lori! I just looked that pattern up and, you're right, very similar! I like that style very much, but I wonder how wearable it might be. I hope you post about it. :)

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  9. I'm lovin the Vogue 8776 pattern. Sadly, it looks like it is now out of print. I've added it to my etsy list. Looks like a fun and very practical styled cape (if you can have such a thing).

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  10. I have two capes. One is kind of a khaki with a zip up front and a hood, lined with plaid. My mom made it for me in college and I still wear it occasionally:) The other is a long forest green wool cape with a hood and a beautiful metal clasp. That one was a Christmas gift from my husband. I love it, but it is quite dramatic, so I don't get to wear it that often. Have fun making yours!

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  11. Except for ruanas, I'm not a cape girl--although my mom did buy me a crocheted one (complete with pom-pom ties) in the 70's. I thought I was fabulous! As I was looking at the pictures of these vintage capes I was thinking how stylish they were back then. The newer versions are more practical and less bulky which makes them more appealing.

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  12. Capes have a lot to offer as far as drama but boy, are they annoying to wear, in my opinion. Not worth the effort, again imo.

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  13. Thanks for all those wonderful retro cape pictures Sharon. I have designed a cape pattern that I call the London cape. To see it made up in several ways go to
    www.janefosterdesign.com and go to challenges and The London cape.
    Burda also does a good cape pattern. Happy Sewing!

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  14. Thank you for sharing all these beautiful vintage pattern pictures! I love capes, especially for formal outfits. They're so elegant and ceremonious. You've inspired me; I think I might make one to go with my prom dress. Can't wait to see your garment!

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  15. Love the romance of a cape but have never had the courage to walk down the street with that much drama. I've always drooled over Folkwear's #207 Kinsale Cloak, and for those of you sewing for DGD's who love Frozen, Burda's 9674 is great.

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  16. What a great post! You found cape styles I've never seen! I've made a couple of THINGS...I don't know if they're ponchos or ruanas, or what, but they're basically a folded rectangle with a neck hole cut out and a split down the front. They're quite easy to wear.

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  17. I think I had one of those ponchos with the pom-poms, too. I like some of the Vogue patterns you've got here, but they just don't seem super practical. How to deal with your purse, how to get all that fabric arranged when you get in the car, drafts, etc. I hate clothing I have to fiddle with, and I think capes may fall in that category.

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  18. Margy made a beautiful cape for her daughter...Simplicity 5794. I am making the same one with fabric I bought from Marci Tilton. Can't wait to see your cape!

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  19. You missed one! The "Sherlock" cape! I recently found a vintage Vogue pattern at a yard sale that has a cape with slits for the hands but has long flaps that cover these holes to keep the cold out . It has a matching dress and a Sherlock hunting hat included! I am determined to make one of these for myself. The Vogue number is 2402. : )

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  20. I have a cape which I love…it's tan made out of a sweater knit with faux leather brown trim. It has slits for my arms to come through and pockets for my hands much like the cape with slits and pockets you showcased above. I love it and it's so much fun to wear!

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  21. I am thinking of making the Vanessa Pouzet trendy Cape http://www.vanessapouzet.com/en/happycouture/147-patron-de-la-trendy-cape-.html. I like the shape but may add some facings and change the side slits. The high collar and neat, short length appeal.

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  22. I am thinking of making the Vanessa Pouzet trendy Cape http://www.vanessapouzet.com/en/happycouture/147-patron-de-la-trendy-cape-.html. I like the high collar and overall shape, think I need to add some facings and sew the bottom half of the slits closed. Not sure I would ever wear it with a belt but it would be a good look on some.

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