A year ago I made a Sandra Betzina blouse as a jacket. I have worn that jacket a number of times and I wanted to revisit this pattern and make some changes: to lengthen the hem and the sleeves, add the button closure (which I'd left off of the previous version), and to use a stretch woven for increased wearing ease. When I saw this beautiful double-sided, stretch denim on Marcy Tilton's site, I snapped it up.
When I was sewing this up over the end-of-year break, I was having some trouble pinning the darts properly so I visited my friend, Ronda Chaney, head of the fashion department at Cañada College, and she pinned them for me. She also suggested that I add slits at the hem. Thanks so much, Ronda!
Here is the full list of modifications:
- A generous FBA using a side dart.
- Lengthened the hem by several inches.
- Added side hem slits.
- Faux piping along the front edges and the sleeve hems. This is done by "favoring" or exposing the facings just slightly. Topstitching in the ditch secures the mock piping in place. (Of course, you must also sew the facings on "backwards" to expose the other side, or use a contrasting fabric.)
- Omitted the sleeve pleats. Rather than lengthening and tapering the main sleeve piece, I decided to draft a lantern cuff for the rectangularly shaped sleeve.
- Added pockets! I spent some time thinking about how to do this. In the end, I used a pocket inside a pocket. The inside pocket used the solid blue side of the denim and is much shallower than the larger outer pocket. This is perfect for my cell phone and tissues. The pockets are cut cross grain to take advantage of the wonderful selvedge.
- Replaced the functional buttons with decorative buttons and snaps. The buttons that I found at Stone Mountain & Daughter were 1.5" across. I didn't want 1.5" buttonholes, so I sewed them on decoratively and added snaps.
This denim was a dream to sew and very comfy to wear because it's extremely soft and stretchy. I expect to get a lot of wear from this!
P.S. I just saw on Sandra Betzina's Facebook page that she had surgery recently to repair pain in her neck, arm, and shoulders. It's so good to hear that she'll be in top form again soon!
Love it! You have just egged me on to finish mine, so close.
ReplyDeleteLove your mini piping trick, so great with the contrast side. Another lovely, Shams.
Thanks, Bunny! To use this piping trick, you must remember to sew the facing on "backwards", as it were.
DeleteThanks for the great tutorial on the faux piping . It adds such a beautiful touch to you coat. It's all in the details as you demo so well . Really superb job !!!
ReplyDeleteThanks, MaryEllen!
DeleteThe piping accent finishes off the flutes perfectly, and I love, love, love the lantern sleeves. Everything you've done is quite subtle and the sum is definitely greater than the seemingly small modifications.
ReplyDeleteAn excellent interpretation of a Betzina classic.
Thank, Urbanite. I love lantern sleeve cuffs. I keep thinking I should make a tutorial on how to draft them, but I just haven't had time.
DeleteThat's a pretty awesome jacket Shams! I knew I wasn't crazy to love the selvedge of my denim SO much.
ReplyDeleteI love love love selvedges in general, Nakisha! And this fabric has a really nice one.
DeleteWhat a great jacket! and I love your changes, especially the lantern sleeves. Isn't it fun when you get a fabric that's EASY to sew?
ReplyDeleteYou are so right, Margy! This fabric was a delight to sew and to wear!
DeleteTerrific modifications.
ReplyDeleteLooking great.
Thanks, kathy!
DeleteAbsolutely gorgeous! Love all the changes that you made.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Irene!
DeleteWow, love your version of this great jacket/blouse. I've had a muslin sitting on a hook in my sewing room and must work on it since it looks like the perfect spring weight topper. Your sleeve cuff is a delight too and I just might make a version "inspired by Shams."
ReplyDeleteI had the same thought, too, Jane! This will be a great topper for spring, but it works now in San Francisco, though I might wear an overcoat on top on chilly mornings. :)
DeleteGorgeous! I love the fluting at the neckline, and the piping adds a nice dimension. I've heard of outsourcing buttonholes, but not darts! How nice to have a sewing buddy, to give you great ideas and feedback. I like the linger length, too.
ReplyDeleteLonger length!
DeleteLOL: "oursourcing buttonholes". I am usually able to pin my own darts - I do it right on the body, but these were being quite tricky. It was so nice to be able to stand still and let Ronda do it, as well as cast her practiced eye over the garment.
DeleteCool idea for the faux piping! I have never seen that before. It's really effective on that neckline.
ReplyDeleteI learned Faux Piping while a student at Cañada College, I think. At any rate, it's a trick I learned at least 20 years ago. Just remember to either use a contrasting fabric for the facings or turn the fabric around for the facings.
DeleteStunning collar detail--the piping is super!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Lynn!
DeleteWhat a great piece of fabric!!! And I love the longer length.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Rhonda!
DeleteLike other posters I love your faux piping technique and will definitely use it. I never would have thought to use denim for this pattern but it really looks great! You have a great fabric/pattern sense just as stated in the Vogue pattern magazine article featuring you!
ReplyDeleteKaren
Thanks, Karen!
DeleteThe faux piping idea is awesome! Especially with this double sided fabric. Of course you would choose the edgiest floral I've seen :)
ReplyDeleteLOL, yes I am selective about florals. I am not a fan of traditional patterns like chintz or cabbage roses. ;)
DeleteWell, that is wonderful. Of many great features, my two favorites are the lantern sleeves and the way you did the pocket (inspired).
ReplyDeleteThanks, Virginia! I spent a lot of time on that pocket design. I often do spend lots of time on the pockets. In this case I wanted to feature the fabric selvedge and I wanted to have a pop of the solid blue.
DeleteShams you are so innovative! I've never heard of faux piping or lantern cuffs, but I love them! And beautiful fabric. I must pick your brain sometime for your fabric shopping secrets.
ReplyDeleteThanks so much, Meg! You know, I went to Stone Mountain a couple weeks ago. I only visit about once a year and I thought I would see lots of fabric that I wanted, but I left without buying anything! I only purchased the buttons for this jacket. I don't know what the heck that was about!
DeleteI absolutely love this! I would wear it every day (when weather appropriate) if it were mine, and I'm sure that my coworkers would get sick of seeing it. Thanks for posting the faux piping technique--I hadn't seen it before, but I could see myself using it on future projects.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Michelle! LOL. My wardrobe is deep enough that, unless I'm in a rut (and I definitely fell into a rut last year), my coworkers definitely don't see the same thing too often.
DeleteBeautiful! I love the idea of the selvedge at the pocket top. Also, love the faux-piping. Will make a point of trying to find the right fabric to use that technique.
ReplyDeleteLove the changes you made to this pattern. Very smart of you to favor the facings for the "piping". It adds some nice definition to the edges. You did a really good job of sewing this, and it looks great on you. Nice make!
ReplyDeleteI absolutely love that fabric and the way you used it to interpret the pattern. Now I must get the pattern (the neckline is so unusual) and try to find similar fabric. I may even try to figure out those lantern sleeves/cuffs. Thank you!
ReplyDeleteLove the piping you added to this jacket. The fabric is beautiful and you look great!
ReplyDeleteLove the fabric, the fluted collar, and especially the faux piping!!! It looks beautiful on you...you couldn't have found a RTW coat that pretty in any store!
ReplyDeleteLove the jacket! I have this pattern and I am eager to make it.
ReplyDeleteThe "faux" piping technique is brilliant!
that is definitely the first thing I thought when the photo popped up - Shams is wearing a floral. It works so well for this jacket and pattern. Looks great and seems very wearable for our changeable climate.
ReplyDeleteLove the details on this coat. The piping is beautifully executed, and the collar pleats are interesting.
ReplyDeleteAs always it's those special details that you include that elevate a garment! Love this on you!
ReplyDeleteWhat a great idea to make a jacket like that! I could definitely use something like this and have some soft denim stashed for a long while so this is really inspiring.
ReplyDeleteWell you hit this one out of the ball park. Love it. I so admire your sewing talents. I have fitting issues I struggle with. I have a dress form but after I am done removing all of the wrinkles etc. I end up with a jacket that is too tight. How do you estimate fitting ease or should I just go up a size and then fit it?? I am following a crafsy class on fitting so I get where I need to change things but I end up too small... any suggestions.
ReplyDeleteWhen you get time to do a lantern sleeve tutorial, I'll be front and centre.
ReplyDeleteLove that you are wearing a floral print. It is very muted and classy looking. Great looking faux piping.
ReplyDeleteI love the faux piping -- I definitely need to try the technique. Very cool that you made lantern cuffs -- every time I see a lantern sleeve/cuff/hem, I think of my flat pattern class at Canada College, as it was the first time I ever saw that shape. At the time I thought, "who would ever wear a funky detail like that!?" -- but now I'm a huge fan!
ReplyDeleteWonderful jacket, Shams. I always enjoy the ways you modify patterns to try new techniques and to flatter your figure. Congrats on a job well done.
ReplyDeleteFlowers, well even Piet Mondrian, the master of modernity painted them. http://www.pinterest.com/ellywithofs/piet-mondrian/ Next thing you know it will be a pink top to wear with it ;- )
ReplyDelete