Monday, March 30, 2015

Tessuti Silva Shirt Jacket


With DD1, at Hakone Gardens, Saratoga

Happy spring, those-of-you-in-this-hemisphere! (Please tell me that the weather is finally improving in the Boston area!)

Hakone Gardens, Saratoga

I finished this shirt jacket a week ago Sunday (as in 8 days ago), but it took me awhile to get some photos. My colleague and pal, mem, was willing to take some pics at work last week, but I was having a heck of a time pulling together the right outfit! (In the end, I went with a black column. I really need to work on my separates so that I have more options!)

Hakone Gardens

So, let me back up for a minute.

DD1 and friend, Hakone Gardens

I was talking to Margy recently. She and I are both feeling the need to sew for spring, since we've been enjoying gorgeous weather on the west coast. I told her that linen is one of those fabrics that I rarely wear, so I rarely sew it. I was wondering if I could make myself embrace linen more fully. I was also eager to sew something that was more "spring like" in color. (In other words, no black!)

Hakone

She suggested that I make three pieces from linen to see if I could work them into my wardrobe.

Hakone

I like a challenge!

I dug this yarn-dyed linen from my stash. The warp (lengthwise) threads are taupe. The weft (cross-wise) threads are a light blue. I love linen that is constructed this way.

DD1 wanted to photograph my earrings, purchased at Artistry in Fashion 2 years ago

So, which pattern to use? When I think of linen, I think of two things. First, I think of Diane Ericson. She is a master of linen garments. I also think of Tessuti.

These koi are over a foot long. Hakone Gardens

Tessuti, as you may know, is an independent fabric store in Australia. Based on their website, I think they are a fairly high-end fabric store, though I have never been there. (I'd love to visit Australia one day!) They also sell their own pattern line - their patterns are available as downloads or in limited-edition hard copy. I made their New York Cape recently and I've been admiring the Silva Shirt Jacket for a long time. Lots of Tessuti patterns are perfect for linen, which is a very practical fabric to wear (for much of the year) in Australia.

Hakone

I find the Tessuti patterns to be very well drafted. I traced off the largest size - 16 - and added a fairly hefty side dart for my uber bust. The jacket flares out at the hips, but I removed that shaping. I nipped it in a bit at the waist to create some subtle shaping. I also removed 5/8" at the shoulder. Those were my only changes. ("Only" might seem like an understatement, but it really didn't feel like that many adjustments, for me.)

Filoli Gardens

This is a very easy garment to construct. My favorite feature is that the entire edge is finished with a raw bias strip. There are no facings and no hems, other than the bias strips.

Filoli

The pattern suggests that, over time and with washing, the bias edging becomes raggedy with wear.

The walls of the grand ballroom are covered with painted murals. A volunteer was playing the grand piano - I could have sat and listened for hours. (Such amazing acoustics!) Filoli

But I wasn't willing to wait. :)

Filoli

As soon as I finished the jacket, I sat down and went to town. I fringed the entire edge using only my fingernails.

Taken while creating the fringe

I love the effect! Especially how the fringe releases the taupe and blue threads.

Filoli has a very nice gift shop where I found this bangle bracelet. Perfect for a sewist!

I was in JoAnn's recently, buying the tear away stabilizer needed for the neckline, and I checked out their buttons. I found these 1/2" buttons that were a perfect color match, but they were so small that I grouped them in pairs along the front edge. (I would have preferred a larger button, but JoAnn's button selection is much smaller than it used to be and they only had these in 1/2".)

Last weekend my eldest daughter was home for a few days for spring break with a friend. I had less than one day to spend with her, and I wanted to head to 2 different gardens. She took some photos of the Silva. We first visited Hakone Gardens, in Saratoga, CA. Parts of "Memoirs of a Geisha" were filmed at Hakone and, right now, the cherry blossoms are blooming. Next we visited Filoli Gardens, in Redwood City, CA, where the tulips have been in full bloom.

Filoli

DD2 decided to stay in Minnesota for spring break, to save some money. I missed her!

Driving home after a lovely day

I have started working on my next project. I'm having fun with an interesting fabric from Britex.

Have a great week!

Filoli

66 comments:

  1. What gorgeous photographs! You certainly picked the right time for garden visits!
    I love your linen jacket...I too am particularly fond of cross-dyed linen.

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    1. Thanks, Margy! I wish it were easier to find! I spent some time searching before I published this post, but I couldn't find any available right now from any seller.

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  2. What gorgeous photos and your jacket is really lovely. The fringed edges are an interesting detail and you used the perfect fabric for it.

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  3. I love linen and hope that you enjoy wearing this very lovely jacket made for it. Glad you had a great time with your daughter and her friend!

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  4. LOVE the jacket and omg the gardens are SO fabulous! Great shots :)

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    1. Thanks, Jillian! These gardens would be right up your alley!

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  5. Ah what beautiful gardens. All so autumny here :). Love that jacket. I have some linen in the stash but haven't made it up. I rarely see anyone in Melbourne wearing linen - but I don't get around much :)

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    1. I did not know that, Vicki! I had the impression that linen is a commonly worn fabric in Australia, but I am not that familiar with Melbourne vs Sydney. :)

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  6. Beautiful jacket! I really like the paired smaller buttons. Those gardens are awesome. Blooming foxgloves? We'll have to wait a few months to see those!

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    1. Thanks, Marianne! Yes, those foxgloves were lovely!

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  7. That is a beautiful cross dyed linen! Linen is my favorite fabric to sew and wear. We need to bring you over to the other side on this and your Silva shirt is a great start. I am glad Margy motivated you and look forward to the next two pieces.

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    1. Thanks, Bunny! Yes, I think this might be in regular rotation in my warm weather wardrobe.

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  8. Gorgeous linen fabric and I really like the fringe! Beautiful pictures too.

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  9. What a gorgeous jacket! Love that fringed edge.

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  10. Your jacket is just as lovely as your surroundings! That fringing is a nice contrast to the shape- love it.

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    1. Thanks, Prttynpnk! Yes, before I fringed the jacket it was pretty blah looking.

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  11. Beautiful jacket and wonderful pictures
    Maecia

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  12. Now I know how to use a piece of linen that I have in my stash. I love it and I like to fray fabrics. This looks great on you and that garden is making me jealous!

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    1. That is great, Nancy! I really think that fringing a cross dyed linen highlights it!

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  13. Beautiful jacket! I love how the second color really stands out in the fringe. Linen is definitely at the top of my list of favorite fabrics. I bet that you'll grow to love it after your challenge!

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  14. Love your beautiful jacket. I love how you did the button & buttonholes - it adds so much interest 😄. The gardens are amazing !

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  15. Beautiful gardens. -having just returned from japan.

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    1. Oooh, Kathy, I'm sure you saw some pretty spectacular settings on your trip! Thanks!

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  16. Great jacket - especially the frayed trim - I've got to try this!

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  17. LOVE the jacket -- can I have it? And that bracelet is cool.

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    1. Thanks, Pamela! You are too funny!

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  18. Love everything about this post. :). Thanks for sharing - both the pics and the jacket.

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  19. linen is interesting, I like it in theory but as for wearing, always skip it due to the wrinkling. Yours looks great and the fringe is fantastic. Love the garden (and people) photos. lovely

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    1. Thanks, Beth! Yeah, I think that this top might get more wear than other linen things that I've made. But it takes an adjustment!

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  20. Beautiful jacket, you, young women, gardens... and that bracelet! Tell us more about the bracelet, please

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    1. Thanks, Charade! I bought the bracelet at the gift shop at FIloli. They have a really amazing gift shop with lots of beautiful clothes and accessories. For example, there was a leather bag/tote that I loved, but it was close to $300, so it was out of my budget. This bracelet was a little over $20, but I think I bought the last one. You could always call and ask. :)

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  21. This jacket is beautiful,really like the bias fringy edges, nice contrast with the crisper linen and the choice of the dual buttons is inspired. I think it's your eye for detail that really makes your garments just stand out. As always, thank you for your generous sharing of your techniques. Love all these pictures of flowers and gardens and your beautiful girls. Very springtime and fresh!

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    1. Wow, thanks for that high compliment, Kathleen!

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  22. Oh, how I miss Filoli, one of the most beautiful gardens in the U.S. And now I know what to do with my yellow and orange cross-dyed linen.

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    1. Ooooh, that yellow and orange cross-dyed linen sounds amazing! I would snap that up in an instant! Can you believe that I've lived in this area for over 20 years and this was my first visit to Filoli?!?! But not my last!

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  23. Enjoyed the garden tour -- and the koi! Adore the self-fringe on the wonderful jacket. Can't wait to try out that type of finish on a new top -- using cross dyed linen I have had for a while. Thanks for sharing the technique.

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    1. Thanks, Judy! It seems that many of us have this sort of linen in our stashes! I have at least 2 other pieces of cross-dyed linen in my stash, but both are black and another color (one is black and green, the other is black and pumpkin).

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    2. I have two linen cross-dyed tunics that are reversible, which I think I will shorten and fringe the neckline and sleeve edges....and the hem, if I can get enough bias strips out of the excess length. Never would have thought it doing that before seeing your cute jacket finishing!!

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    3. That is a *great* idea, Judy! Something else I should have noted. The instructions have you overlap the bias strips and do a single or double row of straight stitching. But I fringed mine so thorough, that this was a superfluous step. I would just overlap them slightly when you sew the strips to the garment - no need to sew together since you are going to fringe them.

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    4. Thanks for the detailed description --- I am sure that will save me time and frustration!! Can't wait to get started on restyling my two (or actually four) summer tops!! So cool in the hot weather we seem to be having more and more often in So. CA.

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  25. I live in Melbourne and any trip into the city includes a trip to Tessuti to gaze upon and touch the beautiful fabrics. Sometimes I make purchases! I too love their patterns and have made the Eva dress and the Pia dress. Your jacket is lovely and the fringing is great. The gardens are a fitting background to show your jacket.

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    1. Thanks, Anna! You are lucky to live near Tessuti. :)

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  26. Beautiful gardens and jacket. I love the fringing as it lifts what would be an otherwise very plain jacket. The wisteria looks fabulous too - i wish I was able to smell its perfume.

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    1. I agree, ML! Before I fringed the edging, it was a fairly plain garment. This is why I love details!

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  27. I love your jacket. You have almost made me fall in like with linen. I normally avoid sewing and wearing it. The photos of the gardens are fantastic and rather inspiring for me to move on with spring sewing projects.

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    1. Thanks, Linda! I think having the right linen garments is key, but we'll see.

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  28. Such interesting details--not just the jacket and fringe and your jewelry but also your glasses--are the sides created to look like a zipper unzipping or is that just my imagination?

    Lovely garden photos! The snowdrops are blooming here in NJ. So far that's it!

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    1. Thanks, Kyle! Yes, these are Karl Lagerfeld glasses with side zippers. One side has the zipper "pull" and the other does not. I bought these online and took them to my ophthalmologist to have them fitted with prescription lenses. I posted about them here: http://communingwithfabric.blogspot.com/2014/07/grommets-britex-blogger-glasses.html

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  29. This jacket is so pretty on you-the soft drape and subtle colors really play to your figure and coloring. I love it!

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  30. This looks so fantastic! LOVE the linen you used and LOVE that you immediately created the fringing!

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  31. I use a toothbrush to loosen up bias strips for fringing...it's such a pretty detail.--Martina

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    1. Thanks, Martina! I thought about using a brush, but was able to make it work with my fingernails and that way I could sit on the sofa. :)

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  32. Great looking jacket. That edge treatment was used to trim a skirt and top in a Vogue Issey Miyake pattern many years ago. I remember it was fun to make and got ravelier with washing. fabrics-store.com sells only linen and has a wide variety. I was imagining the scents of the flowers while viewing your pictures. Wisteria will start blooming soon in my area. It is a pest plant, climbing and strangling the trees that line the road to work. But oh the color and scent! I drive with my window down.

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    1. Thanks, Audrey! Oooh, that Miyake outfit sounds great! I hope you are enjoying some fragrant blossoms soon. :)

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