Sunday, February 21, 2016

New Garments, Meetups, Free Downloads, and More


This post contains enough material for 6 or 7 posts. There's also some eye candy, so saddle up!


Palmer Pletsch Short Coat

I have been auditioning patterns for my Paris wardrobe. The Minoru was my first pattern audition, and I loved it. Now I'm auditioning a jacket pattern by Palmer Pletsch, McCalls 7024, which is now out of print. (It's a shame, as this is really an excellent pattern!)

This pattern features front and back princess seams, button front, curved front hems, two-piece sleeves, hem slits in the sleeves, no side seams (it uses side panels), French darts, back waist gathering, lining, and view B has a great, pleated stand-up collar. That's what really drew me in - that great collar.

I made a size 18, which is my usual size. But I will note that, despite the pattern being labelled as "semi fitted" that it has more room than I expected. I lowered and increased the bust dart, but only in the vertical direction, as I didn't need additional width in the bust. This is highly unusual for me.

Other alterations and modifications: I shortened the sleeves by about 5/8" and reduced width at the front hip. I narrowed the shoulder by 5/8". As my fabric was a thick wool, I eliminated the channel for gathering the back waist. I also eliminated the cording in the collar. The pattern calls for in-seam pockets and/or a decorative pocket flap, which I replaced with slanted welt pockets. I also added a hidden inside pocket.

I had trouble deciding which fabric to use. I pulled at least five fabrics, each time thinking I had made a decision, only to change my mind. In the end, I chose a wool fabric that I bought at the now-closed Santa Fe Fabrics in New Mexico. The base fabric is a lightweight knit that is embellished with lots of yarn and thread. I prefer the reverse side of the fabric. You can see the front of the fabric on the inside pocket:

The inside pocket uses the "right side" of the fabric. You can also see the polka dot lining I used in the sleeves, after running out of the black lining fabric I used in the body of the jacket.

I fused the front and back facings, and the sleeve facing, with ProSheer Elegance Light from Pam Erny at Fashion Sewing Supply. It's a wonderful interfacing.

The pattern doesn't call for interfacing the collar, but I interlined it with fleece. The tucks are sewn into the collar, but only on the outside layer. I like the more substantial collar created by using the fleece.

It's a bit hard to see, but the sleeves feature hems with a slit

This is also a bit hard to see, but the welt pocket crosses the princess seam and is just below the French Dart

I was finishing the jacket on Presidents' Day, when I ran out of lining fabric. I decided to brave the stampede at Britex—at least those who show up for the big Presidents' Day Sales event. I purchased some beautiful Italian buttons and polka dot lining fabric, all for 30% off.

The buttons are large, so I closed the jacket with snaps, rather than make bound buttonholes (which are tricky in this uneven fabric) or giant standard buttonholes

While standing in the line to pay—it snaked up to the second floor—I met Lynora, a blog reader who was visiting SF from Washington D.C. I'm sorry that I didn't take a pic (I was busy spilling the contents of my bag down the stairs) but it was nice to meet you, Lenore!

I'm always glad to see Kirby, the Britex dog!

McCalls 7024

I love the fit of this jacket! Love love love. I may well end up using this pattern for a Paris garment.


Tisavel Fur Vest

I started this vest ages ago. I can't even remember when, exactly.

I purchased this beautiful Tisavel synthetic fur from Emma One Sock a year or two ago. (By the way, I recently learned that animal activists dislike the term "faux fur" because some manufacturers label rabbit, raccoon, or dog fur as "faux fur". They prefer the term "synthetic fur".)

At first, I was going to use this fabric for a cowl, but I decided I wanted to make a vest from it.

I used a pattern that I've used three times now, Burda 7852.

I wanted to use special fur techniques and I received very good advice from Rhonda Buss, who has industry experience sewing with real fur.

Most advice for sewing fur (either real or fake), is to choose a design with few seams. I actually don't believe that. I've observed many fur garments that feature intricate seaming. It's more work, of course, but it's quite doable. My pattern features princess seams and bust darts, so it had plenty of seams.

The first difference comes when cutting out the fur. You cut it from the wrong side with a blade of some sort. You want to avoid cutting the hairs. I used a box cutter.

Once I finished cutting out the pieces, I took them outside and shook them vigorously. This removed most of the loose fibers. After this step, I did not have problems with excessive fibers when sewing.

When sewing real fur, you cut the pattern pieces with no seam allowance, or a scant seam allowance. That's what I did, though Rhonda felt that this was overkill for a fake fur garment. But I'm stubborn that way. :)

The seams are all abutted, and stitched with a closely spaced buttonhole sort of stitch. By hand. My technique was similar to this:

Yes, I sewed the darts and all of those seams by hand. This definitely is a bit of overkill for a fake fur, but it creates thin, malleable, invisible seams. I loved the result.

I interlined the collar with fleece which makes for a cuddly soft collar.
You can just make out some of the tiny little seams in this pic

I finished all of the raw edges with bias binding. I lined the vest, constructing the lining on the machine, then sewing it to the bias tape by hand.

Sewing the bias binding to the raw edge. You can also see the finished shoulder seam.

At first, I wanted to finish the vest with a double-ended zipper, but I could see that the fur was going to get caught in the zipper, so I used hooks.

Except that I am not a fan of the Dritz fur hooks offered at most sewing stores. They are pretty huge - too large for my shorter length fur, so I ordered some cute hooks on Etsy:

I sewed 7 sets of hooks to the front

I made a cutting error on the back lining. So I fixed it with a nice little patch:

I used side seam pockets. This is not my favorite style of pocket, but it's the most practical for a fur fabric.

Tisavel is a high-end synthetic fur. I haven't seen any on the Emma One Sock site lately, but I did see some on fabric.com.

The best feature of this vest is the collar. The soft fur is sooo luscious next to my neck! In fact, when I wear this vest, I can't stop petting myself. :)


Meeting Debra

Last week I met up with Debra S, a reader of my blog and a friend of one of my favorite bloggers. (If you haven't been reading Wendy's blog, West Zen Studio, you should!)

Anyway, Debra was in town for a few days and we scheduled lunch at my workplace in SF.

It was loads of fun!

I just loved the top that Debra was wearing. She made it after attending DOL in Taos, New Mexico. She told me that it was a Mizono pattern and I'm pretty sure that it's Vogue 1274.

She and a friend painted the design on the tweedy fabric, a silk linen blend she bought in Taos.

It had a wonderful drape, due to the silk/linen blend. To complement the hand painted bicycle motif, she found some gear shaped buttons on ebay.

Debra also made me a lovely gift! She pieced felted sweater knits to make wrist warmers to match my Minoru!

So thoughtful!

Thanks for these lovely warmers, Debra! I wore them today.


And thanks for a lovely meet up!

Mini Blogger Meetup

Jilly, Laura, me and Erin

The same week I had another lunchtime blogger meet up! Erin, from Seamstress Erin, was visiting from up north. She used to live in San Francisco and had hosted several local gatherings for sewing bloggers. Jilly of JillyBe Joyful, and Laura of Lilacs and Lace, joined us for lunch.

It was so nice to see everyone and catch up!

Erin is 6 months pregnant and she's positively glowing!

Erin knitted her beautiful sweater

She loved the shag ombre pillows on one of our office sofas

And before I leave the subject, let me give you a quick update on Jillian. She had her liver transplant in January. Other than extreme tiredness, she's doing well on the health front. But money is a constant concern, as she's not yet allowed to work. If you can help, she would be tremendously grateful.


Pressing Tools

I don't talk about it a lot, but pressing is a critical part of my garment-making process. Proper pressing (or lack thereof) can make or break a project. (Note that ironing, a back-and-forth motion, is not the same as pressing, an up-and-down motion, generally applied with pressure.)

I have a large collection of pressing tools, but I wanted to highlight a few in this post. One of these days, I'll create a separate page dedicated to my many pressing tools. In my copious spare time. <ahem>

I learned about the Shoulder Stand from Ann Steeves, in one of her Pressinatrix posts. She learned about it from Pam Erny. The stand is sold by LH Designs, on Etsy. This is the only item sold by LH Designs and it's frequently out of stock, so I kept checking back from time to time. It took a few years, but I finally scored one in December.

It's very well made! I used it to press the curve on the bottom hem of my Palmer Pletsch jacket and it's a rock solid tool.

My friend Luanne Seymour, a very creative person on many fronts, used to teach classes on sewing bags and fabric collage at FabMo. I took two of her classes some years back and was enamored with her point presser.

I have a standard point presser—the kind that you see in most every sewing store. It's a good, basic tool and I use it all of the time. This one was smaller, featured inlaid wood, and was sanded to incredible softness. Luanne's husband, whose hobbies include custom cabinetry, made her beautiful point presser.

I asked if he'd be willing to make one for sale. He was busy at the time.

Last December, I was making a number of bags using silk tie remnants and it reminded me of the point presser. In January, I asked Luanne if her husband would be willing to make one for sale. This time he said yes!

I love my dainty point presser! Thanks, Steve!

I first blogged about my custom handmade sewing hams in 2011! (Wow, time flies.) Since that time, Stitch Nerd has been endorsed by Marcy Tilton, written up in Vogue Pattern Magazine, and has been mentioned by numerous bloggers.

I had in mind, for a long time, to order a larger "professional" sized ham. Last year, I did just that. I love my large ham! It molds to my bust darts better than my smaller hams.

Gee, I wonder why that is. :)

She makes a great product!


Free Book Downloads from the Met

I first blogged in November 2012 that you can download free, high quality catalogs from the Metropolitan Museum of Art, but this info is making the rounds again, so I thought I'd repost it.

Go to the Metropolitan Museum of Art's site to download some wonderful books, such as the book on Dior pictured above.


Kenneth King News

I'm sure that you know who Kenneth King is, right? I have two bits of news about Kenneth. First, he just published an Embellishment CD. Here's the table of contents:

It will be available any day now. If you order before March 10th, you get a $2 discount off the normal price of $24.95. I just ordered my copy. If you also want a copy, his website has his contact info.

Also, if you live in the San Francisco Bay Area, this March he is teaching a series of one-day workshops for PenWAG in San Jose. I can't attend, but they sound great!


Marcy Tilton's New Site

I hesitated to mention that Marcy Tilton unveiled a new website over a week ago because, well... it's old news. Then I learned that other sewist friends of mine hadn't noticed.

How is this possible? Don't they check her site daily, like I do? :)

So, if you haven't seen it yet, be prepared for gorgeous, large photos and a slick, clean design. She's still hammering out some of the details. She welcomes feedback—you can email her directly, but she's also responding to comments on Stitcher's Guild.

I gave her some feedback that she's already addressed. I love the new site!


Fin

Here's a fun side note. Hugh Jackman made a visit to my SF office last Friday. He was there to promote his new movie, Eddie the Eagle. Our office overlooks the Bay Bridge. At the end of the event, Hugh was fascinated by the scintillating lights on the bridge.

Hugh Jackman

Here's the 25,000 LED light show that he was admiring! (It's now a permanent feature.)

I'm heading to the snow this week. A few weeks ago, it was 20°F in Whistler, Canada, and now it's 40°F. That's rather disappointing, but I'm still eager to see the snow!

While I'm in Whistler, some of you lucky folks will be attending Puyallup. I hope you have a great time! I look forward to seeing pics and updates on social media!

And that's my catch-up post! Have a great week!


48 comments:

  1. Hi, From Alaska. Linda Homan from LH Designs, and the woman behind your curved pressing tool, is a member of our American Sewing Guild Group and has been doing custom wedding design and sewing for many years. A real nice, busy lady. If you ever travel to Alaska, be sure to look us up!

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    1. Hi Kathy! Ooooh, interesting! I see her stand has already sold out on Etsy and most of the west coast hasn't even seen this post yet. :) Tell Linda "hi" from me!

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  2. Completely love this coat!!!!!!!! Beautiful. What a really great fit, too.

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  3. The vest looks fabulous! As it turns out, it will be perfect for Whistler :)

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    1. :) Thanks, again, for you advice, Rhonda! I created a file called "Rhonda-fur-advice" for future reference. :)

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  4. Always look forward to your posts! Love the coat and the fur vest. And you sewed that vest all by hand! WOW! Thanks for all the great updates!!!

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    1. Thanks, Linda! Yes, I sometimes hesitate to admit how much sewing I do by hand. ;)

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  5. Your vest is great. As a child in the 50s my grandma was a furrier (mainly refashioned and refurbished furs). She employed women to hand stitch all seams until she secured a special machine for stitching. Oh how I wish we had kept that machine! I well remember petting and trying on all the lovely furs. Anyway, like you, I hand sew all my seams on furs. BTW my Mawmaw is the wonderful one that taught me to sew enabling my huge, satisfying love of this craft. Thanks for this BIG post and your jacket is fantastic! Karen

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    1. I saw a youtube video showing that machine, Karen! It looks amazing! And thanks!

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  6. Such a great post with lots of great info & inspiration . I love your jacket !!!! I met you last year in line at the fashion show in puyullap . The woman behind us had the very interesting collar on her dress / top. I'm not going this year as I spent a week in January with Sandra Betzina . Thanks again for all the great tips !!!!!

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    1. Yes, I remember, MaryEllen! I had to wonder if this work trip happened because I wasn't supposed to go to Puyallup this year. You see, I still have fabric I bought last year, not sewn up yet. ;)

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  7. I have three pressing tools from Stitch Nerd and love them. One is the large pressing ham. A great tool and so much fun to use.

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    1. Yes, I have three now, with the two I first ordered! I want to order a couple more, but I'm pacing myself. :)

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  8. Thank you for advice concerning synthetic fur I have to cut some for lining my parka and I dreaded the cutting stage. Now I know how to do it.

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    1. Oh excellent, Marie-Noëlle! Yes, just cut the backing, but not the hair. Often people complain about getting the fibers everywhere, but after cleaning them off, it was really no problem.

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  9. Wow, Shams! So many awesome things in this post! I especially love your vest. I've always wanted a synthetic fur jacket, but haven't yet run across any fur fabric that I like. Thanks for the tip on what you used as I'll definitely need to get a swatch or two and check it out. Also, what lovely meetups you've had lately. Plus, Hugh Jackman!

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    1. Definitely check out the Tisavel fabrics, Tany! And thanks!

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  10. Amazing post, Shams. Good to see all of these fantastic projects that you have been accomplishing. Lucky you, seeing and greeting so many other sewing mavens.

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  11. Thanks for the link in support of Jillian's care. Her spirit is so inspiring! I've found the wooden pressing tools you recommend at estate sales. How exciting it is to happen upon such treasures!

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    1. Thanks for your concern, Carol! She's one in a million!

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  12. what a great post. the office in the city has been such a great change for you :) and I love that jacket on you. looks like another good pattern which was a bit of a sleeper. The fit is fantastic and it looks really sharp. Are you making "audition" garments for your Paris wardrobe or making garments and then planning to chose some of them to make in into your luggage?

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    1. Thanks, Beth! Working outside of the home (both in MTV and SFO) has been a great change. Life tends to be much more interesting when I get out and about! No, I am not planning to take either of these garments to Paris - they are too heavy. I am really just auditioning the patterns.

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  13. What a great blog! Thanks for sharing all the wonderful projects. I've been so behind - only been doing theatre shows and nothing for myself. I'm inspired by your jacket and am going to finish one I've also been working on for ages. So fun to see all the meetups - you do know quite a few fabulous women. I guess being that you are fabulous helps as well.

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    1. Yes, Kathleen, I know you do a lot of sewing for shows, but do some for yourself, too! If you're like me, I need to sew or I get twitchy. (Which rhymes with the actual word I'm thinking. ;) )

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  14. So exciting to finally SEE the things you've been working on lately! My copy of that pattern came in the mail Saturday...can't wait to try it out. Love your jacket and your vest...you are braver than I am to sew a faux fur vest!

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    1. I know! That fur vest was in the works for ages! I felt the same thing about finally seeing your Minoru! :)

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  15. Love your jacket and vest. Both look so cuddly.

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    1. The vest is cuddly! The jacket, not so much! But it's very warm and comfy!

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  16. Oh my goodness, PenWAG meetings are about a 10 min drive from my house. Looks like I have a new plan for some saturday mornings :-) Love your new jacket and that vest! Awesome!

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    1. OMG, LW, how did you not know about PenWAG?!?! I used to go religiously but, these days, I attend occasionally. It eats up a big chunk of my weekend when I do go, but they are a great group!

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  17. The Creative Clothing Club here in metro Detroit sounds very similar to PenWAG. We have different sewing challenges every month plus speakers and special guests. Christine Jonson will be at our next meeting. Show and tell is always fun!

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    1. I hadn't heard about the CCC, Shari. I'm glad you shared that info, both for me and for other blog readers who may be local!

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  18. I have no idea how I didn't know, but it's only the past year or so I've been trying to get back to creative pursuits. I was too focused on dancing and motorcycling and gardening and nerding and . . . :-)

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    1. Well, LW, maybe we can finally meet at a PenWAG event! Or at AIF - I hope you come to AIF this year. It's one of my favorite events of the year!

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  19. Wonderful PACKED post Shams. Thanks for the great tips and reviews - I can always rely on you to deliver great quality.
    I hadn't heard of the Eddie Eagle film due out in April - but I remember Eddie!!! Everyone in England was amused and amazed by him at the time - so glad his "moment" is returning this way.
    Baci Sallyxx
    sarsaparillasal.blogspot.com

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    1. Thanks, Sally! I haven't seen the film, but it's evidently very uplifting. At least Hugh says so. :)

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  20. Love love LOVE your jacket and BOTH sides of the fabric! And your vest. And Debra's jacket. And the meetup was so fun - always a kick to do a tour of Google with you, thanks!!! And thanks so much for mentioning me....it's still hard to let people know how rough it can get when you can't work... :-\

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    1. Thanks, JillyBe! Yes, it's wonderful how sewers want to support you. Stay fierce!

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  21. I was so busy admiring your makes and thinking what a full and fabulous life you lead, and then, bam!....Hugh Jackman! Swoon!

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    1. LOL. Yeah, he's pretty swoon worthy. A couple weeks ago I met Vint Cerf at a work event. Now there's someone I could listen to all day long. He's one of the founders of the internet and a brilliant man.

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  22. "The seams are all abutted, and stitched with a closely spaced buttonhole sort of stitch. By hand.


    Wow that sounds like an absolute gorgeous construction technique for leather and fur!! The past couple of years i've been doing (even more) sewing by hand and these kind of 'no seam allowance left' construction techniques. They result in a garment which is scrumptious to wear - so worth the time and effort.

    You vest looks beautiful on you, as well as your new jacket - love the pattern mixing! I hope this post encourages more people to try hand sewing construction, it doesn't take THAT much longer and wearing clothes made that way is heavenly :)

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    1. Thanks, Stephanie! Yes, I find handwork very relaxing.

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  23. What an inspiring post! Love the little bookmarks you do. Makes it easy to read a bit and come back later. Thanks!

    Do you know if the new Kenneth King CD has a lot of overlap with Cool Couture? I have Cool Couture and don't want to duplicate too much.

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    1. Thanks, Leigh! I think a table of contents is important for long posts with different subjects. :)

      I have not received my CD yet, but what a great question! Maybe email him directly?

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    2. The question of overlap with Cool Couture: the only things that they both share, are the Chinese knot and pleated edging. I've expanded the Chinese knot to include two types of frogs, so that's more information. The pleated edging shows a different method for getting the pleats and applying them, using paper. But they are different enough, that you won'r feel like I'm trying to repeat myself...

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  24. Thank you Shams for mentioning that Kenneth King will be teaching and doing a trunk show at PenWAG.

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