Monday, August 22, 2016

Teal Lisette Coat


Hola!

I've finished my first garment using a fabric I bought in New York City, lined with another fabric I bought in NYC, and using one of the new Fall Butterick patterns released a couple weeks ago.

It's all new new new!

Teal Lisette Coat

I'm starting to realize that I need to sew faster if I want to make several more items before Munich and Paris!

So I am.

I purchased this gorgeous paisley brocade at B&J Fabrics:

I decided to make Butterick 6385, View C, a Lisette coat pattern:

Lined with the navy silk I bought at Kashi's (on top):

I purchased some vintage buttons from Britex. They were $5 each, but worth every penny!

They even coordinate with the lining! (I took this pic at night under incandescent lighting, so the colors look weird.

I started with a size 18. The pattern comes in cup sizes A to D. I used size D. I made several changes:

  • Cut the fabric across the grain (mostly) and mixed up the "nap" (direction) of the pattern pieces. I wanted to break up the giant print so it didn't look so regular and even. I didn't want to look like an upholstered sofa!
  • Lowered the Dior bust dart (typical)
  • Increased the waist by a couple of inches (typical)
  • Narrowed the shoulder by 1" (typical)
  • Shortened the sleeves by 1" (typical)
  • Added small shoulder pads. The pattern may have called for them, I can't remember. I tried it with and without and liked the jacket better with them.
  • Replaced the inseam pockets with welt pockets
  • Added inside patch pockets
  • Reinforced the back of the stand-up collar with a crescent-shaped piece of stiff interfacing and rows of top-stitching. (This is on top of the regular interfacing.) Before I did this, the collar was quite limp, even with interfacing.

Note that the armhole is high and small on this coat and the sleeve is on the slimmer side. I decided it was fine for my purposes, and I like a nice high armhole, but you might want to check it in muslin!

Welt pocket

Inside patch pocket. Picture taken at night under incandescent lighting, so the color looks weird.

Back lining. This pic also taken at night. I love the texture of the brocade!

I'm pretty happy with this coat. This is one of the nicest fabrics I've ever sewn: It presses like a dream, doesn't ravel too much, and eases like wool. It's fabulous!!!


Straandbeest

I recently met up with Kathy and mem at the Exploratorium in San Francisco. It was like a current-and-former-Dart-writers offsite!

I was eager to see the Straandbeest exhibit. I knew about Theo Jansen, the Dutch inventor of the Straandbeest (translation: "beach animal") from various Youtube videos. These machines move via wind power, and I wanted to see one in person.

Full disclosure: the museum has a good-sized space dedicated to the Straandbeests, however it's indoors. They have demonstrations at fixed times throughout the day when you can see one of two beests in action but, since it's inside, the beests don't move under wind power. They move via compressed air stored in bottles.

It was less cool than seeing them walk a sandy beach, but it's still pretty cool!

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The beests are made from narrow PVC pipe. Some of the pipes are heated and partially flattened, like those on its feet

The Exploratorium used to be located near the Palace of Fine Arts, on the northern tip of San Francisco. Several years ago it moved to Pier 15, along the Embarcadero on the eastern side of the city, and I hadn't visited since they moved. I used to take my kids there when they were little—it's a great activity on a nasty day. It was great to go with other grown-ups and play with exhibits that make science principles fun!

The other, larger Straandbeest that walks, but not when we were there.
Photo credit: mem

I would have loved to see this hamster-powered Straandbeest in action!

Make persistent wall shadows!

The "self centered mirror, where you see yourself in all 34 panes. I didn't bother taking a picture of it's cousin, the mirror where you don't see yourself in any of the 34 panes.

The upside-down-y mirror

Getting all 3 of us in the upside-down-y mirror was a challenge!

Close to the entrance of the Exploratorium is this disgusting fountain, right next to a normal fountain.

It didn't bother Kathy, who says she must be part dog

Kathy playing with their giant clock

mem playing with a hot/cold sensation exhibit

This exhibit was fun! It reminded me of the psychedelic effects popular in the 70s.

In fact, I made a video!

We had lunch at the office nearby.

View of the Ferry Building

View in the other direction of the Bay Bridge. Just look at those fabulous rooftop gardens!

I just love these planter boxes!

Thanks for a fun day, you guys!


Here are a few images you might enjoy!

The current window at Valentino. Very art deco!

The window at Chanel. I really liked the fur collar and pocket welts on the jacket on the left.

So I took a close-up. The "fur" has a texture reminiscent of a bath mat.

I loved the pocket on Kathy's jeans! Yes, I was following her trying to take a picture of her butt. ;)


I'm in Seattle for a quick work trip, but I have a second project almost completed from another B&J fabric I bought in New York. I can't wait to get back to my sewing machine!

Join me on Patti's Visible Monday!.

Have a great week!

104 comments:

  1. Love that brocade--the colors--wow--gorgeous!

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  2. Simply beautiful - the fabrics and your handiwork! Thanks for sharing, xo

    -Patti
    http://notdeadyetstyle.com

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  3. Beautiful. The fabric is gorgeous - my color!!
    Marcia

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  4. Absolute perfection! What a winner! Every part of it is fabulous!

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  5. That fabric is out of this world. I don't often comment but I read your blog and really appreciate all the detail you put into your posts. (Your blog is one of the few that still feels "bloggy" as opposed to many which have turned into sponsorship, selling patterns, etc. Wonderful combination of your observations and info about sewing.) I've already picked up 2 of the Butterick patterns that your mentioned recently. Already looking forward to your Paris posts.

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    1. Thanks so much, Chay! I appreciate your feedback!!

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  6. Your jacket is downright stunning! And the boots rock. Throughly enjoy reading your posts.

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    1. Thanks, Pat N Rose! These boots are from Fly London, purchased awhile ago.

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  7. that was so quick, sewing up that coat. and a very traditional pattern style (for you) that looks fantastic - the fabric makes it and I love the teal color in general and on you. The Exploratorium is so fun, I haven't been there in quite a few years. My favorite exhibit was the scent one, with all the plastic bottles that you sniff and try to identify the scent, kind of interesting what your mind/memory tells you they are and then reading the label to learn the actual scent.

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    1. Thanks, Beth! I know! This is fairly traditional for me, but the fabric contributes to the funky vibe, I think. It's a great basic pattern! I missed the scent exhibits. The Exploratorium was full of kids, so there were a few things we missed.

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  8. Of all your many extraordinaries, this coat is extraordinary. It is beautiful and looks beautiful on you. I love the luxury fabrics, too! Plus, now I want to move to San Francisco.

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    1. Thanks, Robyn! Yes, it's cool in SF right now! Good jacket weather!

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  9. Beautiful coat - fabric, lining, necklace and boots! And the color - be still my heart - I believe you have embraced a new color palette! Karen

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    1. Yes, Karen, my palette for Paris is teal, cobalt, black. I'm loving it! :)

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  10. That coat is so wonderful and regal that before I scrolled down (so I didn't see as far down as the hem), I hoped it was floor length!

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    1. Thanks, Radostin! Yes, I hear you. It would be wonderful at full length. But I made this for travel, so shorter is more practical.

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  11. Now that's what you're supposed to do with vacation fabric shopping - turn it into something awesome and amazing! Love the new coat and this should work so well for the fall trip!

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  12. I agree with Chay (above)...I just LOVE your blog and you are really inspiring me to get back to garment sewing.

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    1. Thanks Marie! I hope you do get back to it! It's such a great hobby. :D

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  13. Everything about that coat is perfection.

















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  14. I thought the lady on the pattern photo looked cool in her coat but you look WAY COOLER! :-D Such nice work, as usual!!!

    And I have to quickly scroll past the toilet fountain. It skeeves me out! lol!!

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    1. Thanks, Nakisha! Yes, that fountain is pretty icky. :)

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  15. Gasp!! I can only gaze in speechless awe at that fabulous coat......

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  16. Absolutely gorgeous!! Your fabric choices plus your excellent sewing have yet again created something fabulous!!

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  17. Teal is you and you are teal! That coat just sets your red hair off so well. Also loved the Chanel jacket with the fur collar. Sets the mind to moving. Maybe there is a jacket in my future. Thanks for all of the pics. They really spark my creativity. Can't wait to see whats next.

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    1. Thanks so much, Paula! I always hope that some of the eye candy I post will have that effect!

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  18. Oh that coat is wonderful! I love the combination of brocade, lining and buttons--perfect! there's something very freeing about being in a space that is primarily designed for children--so freeing and energizing. And I second Chay's comments about your blog: such a great blend of creative inspiration, demonstration of high-level technique, and all around fun.

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    1. Thanks, Elle, for your kind words!!

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  19. The coat is such an outstanding winner! The color, the collar, the texture of the fabric -- which shows so well in your photo with the buttons! WOW!!!

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    1. Thanks, Judy! Yes, I was trying to capture the texture of this brocade. It's really fabulous.

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  20. This coat is a wonderful combination of colour, texture and design. Love everything about it. Thanks too for the introduction to Straandbeest - I went off to youtube and watched the wonderful beach videos. Amazing mechanical creatures.

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    1. Thanks, Liz! I know! Aren't they magnificent! It would be amazing to go to Holland and see them on the beach!

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  21. This coat is amazing! Its a great pattern that I don't remember seeing. Your fit is spot on.

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    1. Thanks, Nancy! This pattern came out only 2 or 3 weeks ago. I mentioned it in my review of the Fall Butterick patterns.

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  22. Love it, Shams! Looking forward to seeing you and it SOON!

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  23. Terrific fabric, terrific coat. That pattern went on my must make list as soon as it was released. Probably won't happen til next year.

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  24. Shams...you will be tres chic in Paris ...love the coat

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  25. Love your coat. It's perfect for your trip.

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  26. Beautiful brocade! Always so much fun to share in your sewing adventures through your postings; love your joie de vivre; love your blog :)

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  27. Love it!! And those welt pockets are inspiring.

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    1. Thanks, Vicki! I am addicted to welt pockets! They are my favorite, when it comes to sticking my hands in a pocket.

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  28. I thought the fabric looked pretty fine but it is MAGNIFICENT made up into the coat. I agree with your 'worth every penny' for those buttons. Perfect.
    The french are going to have to up their game when your party arrive if you are all preparing as well as you!(And I know Margy is!)

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  29. Such a beautiful coat and the fabric is just delicious. The lining, buttons and matching boots are perfect.

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    1. Thanks, Kathy! I was tickled when I realized what a perfect lining that teal polka dot fabric would make for this project!

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  30. Truly stunning, ultra-wearable coat. Absolute pinnacle of sewing for oneself! Enjoy :)

    haha, about three pics in i said: "Someone's been to the exploratorium." Such a great place! I was in SF a couple weeks ago to meet a UFO researcher, such a gorgeous day and place! Thanks for sharing!

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    1. Thanks, Stephanie! Yes, our weather has been amazing lately!

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  31. What a fabulous coat! The Parisians will follow you down the street asking where you got it.

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    1. LOL. That would be interesting! Thanks, Lynn!

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  32. Oh my, what a pretty coat, Shams. Folks in Germany and France will be marveling at it, but they will have to get behind Americans like me, who are already so impressed! Hearty congrats.

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    1. Thanks so much for your kind words, Kathryn!

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  33. Stunning coat! You are one busy woman! How did you narrow the shoulders with that narrow shoulder princess seam?

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    1. Karen, I just lopped off the extra fabric and, you're right, the armscye seam was close (about 3/4") to the princess seam. It would be better to move the princess seam, but that is a PITA. :)

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  34. 74th comment will you read it, you'll be tired from reading all the comments, the coat is lovely and I love those buttons totally agree worth $5 each, gorgeous fabric, hope you get to all the sewing you want to do before travel, Lyn, Australia

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    1. Hey, Lyn in Australia! Au contraire! I read and enjoy each comment! Thanks for your kind words!

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  35. Your new coat is beautiful, buttons so worth $5 each! Thanks for sharing the photos. The Exploratorium is such a marvelous place.

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    1. Thanks, Leslie! Yes, those were pricey buttons, but I don't regret it! One of my favorite favorite parts of sewing a garment with buttons is to go to Britex and choose them, with the help of their amazing assistants. In this case, the helper was a gentleman. The first button he pointed to was pretty plain and I kinda shrugged. Then he pointed to this one and I started whimpering. He laughed and we were done. :D

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  36. Love the Lisette coat - you look very elegant - perfect for Paris. Your modifications obvious make for an excellent fit.

    The toilet drinking fountain is a challenge.

    Thanks for sharing your wonderful and interesting adventures and creations

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    1. Thanks Zeddyboo! Yes, I wasn't going to use that toilet fountain at first, but Kathy egged me on. ;)

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  37. Totally fabulous coat. You are really going to show those Parisian ladies how to dress!

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    1. Thanks, Ruth, though I doubt it. ;)

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  38. Oh my, your coat is WONDERFUL!!!! Love everything about it.

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  39. From Creative Hormone Rush: What I want to know is when you're going to reach your zenith in designing/constructing coats. Each one is eye-catching, beautifully laid out, and so powerfully you. But they keep getting better and better and better. How long can this possibly go on? Apparently forever. This one, like every one you make, is outrageously good. :) :)

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    1. Wow, CHR, what a nice compliment! Thanks!

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  40. Gorgeous Coat! Where do you get the energy? You are incredibly productive!
    You are amazing.

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    1. I'm on a mission, Kathy O! Though I admit, I'm getting a bit tired!

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  41. I absolutely love the pattern placement. It would be easy not to get this right with such a dominant print. You nailed it!

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    1. Thanks, Gail! In this case, I didn't want the print to match. I felt like I would look like a sofa. So I purposefully mismatched it. :)

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  42. I love everything about this coat Shams...the fabric ,the pattern the BUTTONS!!! and the lining. Love the idea of patch pockets on the inside and will have to steal that idea from you, Lol.

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  43. What a stunning coat! You will certainly brighten up foggy mornings with that gorgeous color. It also shows why redheads look better in greens and blues. What is the fabric content of the outer fabric?

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    1. Thanks, Cynthia! From their website: Made in Spain
      37% PL / 26% AC / 23% VI / 13% PA / 1% EA. You can find it here: http://bandjfabrics.com/fabric/paisley-brocade-0

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  44. Beautiful fabric and a stunning coat! The lining and buttons are perfect. Such a lovely combination!

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  45. I adore your beautiful coat. You have made the most of the gorgeous fabrics, and I am sure your coat will be just perfect for your holiday.

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