Saturday, September 10, 2016

Teal Vest, Zippergasms, and More!


Long Teal Vest

I've finished another garment for Paris. Sandra Betzina released this tunic/vest pattern with the early Fall Vogue collection last July. I snapped it up in the first sale. I purchased this fabric, "Teal Double Weave", from Marcy Tilton last January.

It is a very interesting fabric. The double weave, which creates a quilted effect, was lovely to sew. It raveled a bit, but not badly, and it pressed beautifully. The yardage went through the washer and dryer like a champ. I also used a 2-way 24" zipper I'd purchased from Botani while visiting NYC.

I started with a size E (typical), View A, and made a few alterations and modifications:

  • The front-and-back-princess seam pattern has Dior darts, which I lowered and enlarged (typical).
  • 1/2" forward shoulder adjustment (typical)
  • The pattern has a CB seam, but I didn't notice at first. When I cut it out I put the back pattern piece on a fold. I could have easily sliced along the fold afterwards, but I decided not to. Instead, I removed the excess with two 3/8" darts at the back neck. I was pleased with this approach because it gives me another 1-1/4" of ease across the back. I don't mind having more ease in this non-stretch fabric.
  • Reinforced the back of the collar stand with extra stiff interfacing secured with rows of quilting
  • The pattern has no pockets. (Whaaaaaaaat?!) I added my "Covert Cavity Pockets."
  • The pattern has no front facings, meaning that the zipper tape is not covered. If you wear the neckline open, the wrong side of the zipper tape would show. I covered the tape with narrow front facings.
  • This sleeveless pattern is designed with extended shoulders and the armhole is on the small-and-tight side. I didn't like how closely fitted the armhole was for a layering garment, so I removed 1" around the entire armhole. I also didn't like how the extended shoulder cap looked on me (it looked a bit Romulan), so I removed another 1" from the top of the sleeve (removing a total of 2" from the top), creating a more natural armhole.
  • The vest is unlined, but I finished all raw edges with bias tape

The pattern has no side seams, so use the other seams to control the shaping. My vest is a bit loose through the waist, but I wanted to be able to layer it.

Reinforcing the back collar

See the darts added to the back neckline

The "main" pocket opening of my "Covert Cavity Pocket."

Unzip the invisible zipper along top edge to access the stealth pocket inside.

A 24" double-ended zipper I bought from Botani when I visited NYC

I like how it layers!

Vogue 1510, Sandra Betzina's Zip Front Tunic and Vest


J.N. Zippers

I first visited J.N. Zippers in South San Francisco over 3 years ago in July, 2013. Last Thursday I made my second trip there. J.N.Zippers is a wholesaler who imports hardware from China. They have a (hard to navigate) retail website, Zprz, and a wholesale website, J.N. Zippers (which had been down for days until I told them on my visit). They don't have a brick and mortar store, but they are willing to sell to individuals who stop by. This means that you have to visit on a weekday, during the day. They are located in the industrial part of South San Francisco near the airport. They've actually moved since I was last there in 2013—they are now located at 380 Swift Avenue, #5. Parking is plentiful and free in this area. If you look at the massive building from Swift Lane, they are along the left side of the building, five businesses down.

They don't only sell zippers. They also sell giant snaps, buckles, cord stops, and purse hardware. I only have to walk into their office and look at their wall of goods to enter my spiritual happy place. I have lots of pictures to share with you. If you see something you like, and you can't find it on their website (they told me that they are working on an improved website, thank goodness), send them a copy of my picture and circle the item you want.

Their factory is next door to their office and they are willing to customize zippers for you by cutting them shorter or swapping the slider to one of their many decorative sliders. I was on a mission for zippers for a teal jacket. I found the perfect zippers and I had them customized while I waited. If you have a large order, they prefer that you come back later or that they mail them to you. There is not much going on in this part of town, but you can drive to nearby Burlingame or San Bruno for food or shopping.I was on my lunch break so I waited for my 6 zippers. I also bought two zipper lanyards and two polka dot zippers. I still have a stash of striped zippers from my last visit.

Enjoy!

My haul

I love all of the metallic shades!

I loved the 2-color zippers and asked if they could do red and black. She said that they'd have to get that from China. I didn't ask, but I assume that means they'd require a minimum order.

Thar she blows! The elusive striped zipper!

Giant zippers and center pull (luggage style) zippers!

A few of their rhinestone zippers—they had more variety in one of the binders

Giant snaps


Silk Chiffon Burnout Scarf

When I was in NYC last July, I purchased 2 yards of silk chiffon burnout. I saw lots of silk chiffon burnout fabrics at different stores in the garment district, so it must be an "in" fabric right now.

Measuring the silk chiffon burnout, Chic Fabrics, NYC

I intended the fabric for a scarf. I thought I would do the easy thing and tear the fabric to my desired dimensions (26" by 72"). It tore ok along the grain. But when I tried to tear it across the grain... what a mess! Regular silk chiffon tears very well, but not this stuff.

Oops, don't tear a silk chiffon burnout!

If the fabric had torn cleanly, I might have just left the raw edges unfinished, but this fabric needed to be finished, so I used a micro hem for sheer fabrics along three edges. I left the selvedge edge alone.

I've worn this scarf to work and I love it! It's as if a litter of kittens are cuddling my neck.


Sweater Knit Presto

Here is Presto top #7! (Savage Coco has made 12 herself and I need to catch up. ;) )

I really wanted one made out of a sweater knit. This is that same heathered sweater knit that I've already used for 3 projects in different shades of teal and blue. I just love this fabric! It's soft and drapey. Another great basic that I'll probably take to Europe.

Presto #6


DD1 needs some mom time this weekend, but I hope to squeeze in some sewing. I have one more jacket I'd like to finish for Paris, plus a raincoat which is almost finished. Otherwise, I'm working on some simpler projects.

Have a great weekend! Join me on Patti's Visible Monday.

58 comments:

  1. Ooh, I love the Sandra Betzina! I'm actually making it up now (just finished a muslin). Looks great!

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    1. Excellent, Tracy!! I pin fit the pattern but didn't muslin it. You are wise to do that!

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  2. Your vest looks amazing!
    All those zippers ... how does one make a choice?

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    1. Thanks, Irene! I made my choice immediately. Kinda sorta. They had the chunky teeth with black zipper tape in 2 shades of teal. I first chose the "greener" teal, then I switched (seconds before he started cutting) to the "bluer" teal. I *think* I made the right choice. I'm still waffling a bit! ;)

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  3. Amazing! I love, love your vest. I love all of your teal with black. It's a really flattering color for you. What size did you want the scarf to be? I had a similar issue with some silk I was trying to true up a few years ago. A least you got a usable piece out of the mess!

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    1. Thanks! I cut the fabric at 26" by 72". It's perfectly fine, though a tad smaller. ;) I updated the post with the dimensions!

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  4. Oh, I love your hidden pocket. Perfect for traveling. I'll have to remember this.

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    1. Thanks, Nancy! I've used this pocket on maybe 3 garments now and I love it! It's pretty much the ONLY reason I buy invisible zippers. ;)

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  5. Thanks so much for the zipper eye candy!!! I love zippers and they run amok in my sewing room. Good thing I don't live close to J.N. Zippers (I'm in the Puget Sound) or I would have to add another room to my house for the zippers only. Thanks again Shams (Wouldn't boots with 3 to 5 amazing zippers on them be cool?!

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    1. Thanks, Paula! Me, too! I have a huge zipper stash and almost no button stash at all. I'd rather buy buttons when I need them. And, YES, I'd love boots covered with zippers! :D

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  6. Your vest is "the bomb" . I love the hidden pocket -how nice not to have to carry a purse at times .

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    1. Thanks, Mary Ellen! I have used that pocket on several garments and I love how secure that stealth pocket is. I'll stick my bus pass in there, for example, and know that it won't fall out.

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  7. that vest is fantastic, agree with commenter above, teal is a great color on you.

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  8. Shams, when I saw "teal" in the bloglovin description, I knew it must be your post! You continue to amaze me with your style, detailed sharing of resources & techniques, and wardrobe building for Paris!!! Presto top will work with everything! Vest and scarf are both fantastic!! Thank you again for sharing it all!!!

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    1. Ha, Judy! Thanks for your feedback! I have to slow down soon. I can't keep up this rate of production. :)

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  9. There is an amazing amount of teal fabric in this world, and you continue to find the best of it! Love the vest, love the changes you made...I will do the same the next time I sew it. And the zippers...I am teal green with envy. I hope they improve their website soon!

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    1. Ha! Don't act surprised, you huge enabler, you!!! She told me they plan to have a new website up next year, which really isn't that far off. I told her that I tried to order these on the current website but I gave up.

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  10. Your Europe wardrobe is really turning out spectacularly! I love how the vest layers so well with the jacket and I might steal your pocket idea because it's so cool! So glad that you found a zipper spot near you...can only imagine what you're going to do with those beauties.

    Have a great time with your daughter and I hope you get some sewing in. Me, I'm still sewing little girl clothing big time!

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    1. Carolyn, your grandchildren output is amazing! I'm about to leave to spend some time with DD. We'll apply some retail therapy to help offset the cruft of her life.

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    2. *cruft* ... had to look that up ... love that *technology* word ... sez: *jargon for anything that is left over, redundant and getting in the way. It is used particularly for superseded and unused technical and electronic hardware ... *

      thanks .... darlene

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    3. DD1 is definitely dealing with some cruft but I just returned from a day with her and I think she's feeling a bit better. :)

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  11. Teal is certainly "your" color. May I ask if you know the fiber content of that gorgeous fabric? Thanks. Love to see your creations and I, too, love teal for hiw red my hair used to be

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    1. Thanks, Nancy! I do not know the fiber content, though I think it contains a lot of polyester. Marcy may or may not have listed it. She sometimes buys fabric from manufacturers or jobbers and they don't always know.

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  12. I am in your debt for this...public service post. I hope to be worthy of it's riches.
    GIANT ZIPPPPPPPPERRRSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!

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    1. LOL! Thanks, SJ Kurtz! Yes, I OWN some of those giant zippers! They are fun!

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  13. What great photos of zips! I wish websites would use your photo style. We don't need to see a full-length zip, we just need to see a close-up of what it looks like.

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  14. The teal layers work so well. I particularly like how the collars "nest" together, very stylish!

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    1. Thanks, Sewphie! Yes, I gave thought to how the collars nest and it seems to be working out, for the most part!

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  15. love how all the teal is coming together. Great vest, fabulous fabric.

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  16. Love the layering! This is going to be a great travel wardrobe. I especially love the teal with your hair color.

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  17. OMGosh .... you are such an up-town chick ... i love the vest, the fabric, masterful and your pockets, perfect ... your jewelry is also perfection .... btw ... how can one *jacket* w/o pockets? mindboggling .... really ....

    so, my question: do you live in the city and commute or in palo alto or thereabouts and work down the peninsula? i went to lowell high school {old lowell on masonic, which i'm sure, sure, sure is not there anymore ...} ... i was born in the city, my mom was born in the city and my gramma was born in the city, as was grampa, too .... san franciscan through and through ... even did a stint as a hippy in the haight ... waaaay back in the oooold days ...

    love your wardrobe; i'll go with you and be your presser ... k??? ok!!!

    darlene

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    1. Hi, midnight hysteria! I live in San Francisco and take a corporate bus to Silicon Valley about half of the time. The rest of the time I take public transit (the underground Muni Metro) to the SF office. I love living in SF and can't imagine leaving, except maybe for a stint in NYC. ;)

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  18. I am green (teal green of course) with envy over your new vest. It's a real winner and you and Margy will fit right in the stylish Paris scene. Thanks for turning us onto the zipper source.

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    1. Thanks, Leslie! I'll make sure to post when they've updated their website. She said it should be next year, which isn't that far off.

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  19. Those pockets are brilliant! Thanks for showing us that.
    I believe your teal knit is the same fabric I've used for my workout gear. I love it too.

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  20. Love everything about your new vest. I'm also extremely envious of your access to such a vast array of zippers. Hope they have an online presence and ship to Australia!

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    1. Thanks, Gail! I'll make sure to post the updated website when I learn of it.

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  21. Wows! Those bracelets! Many thanks for your wonderful blog..you are so generous with your many photos and resources. I agree with all of the preceding comments concerning your style, color choices, fabric choices. Do you recall if your teal knit was purchased from Emmaonesock? If yes, I have the same and may use your pattern choice to make it up. Teal...such a great cole for you. Even though we never want our children to experience any cruft in their lives, isn't it fulfilling when they turn to us for support? So many do not have that sort of relationship.

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    1. Thanks, Fran! I purchased a couple pieces of the sweater knit from Emma One Sock. I also purchased a piece from Stone Mountain, a piece from Marcy Tilton, and a piece from Etsy, so this piece may be from EOS. (They are all pretty much identical except for color.) Yes, I am very grateful that I have a good relationship with my kids! I was also very close to my mother so she modeled that for me.

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  22. Thank you very much for the zipper information and the great pictures I contacted them late Friday afternoon and they confirmed my order by email late Friday night! Your information was timely as I needed a custom length zipper for a top. I'm definitely going to stop by their place at some point.

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    1. WOOOT! That's great, MLAWS!!! I'm so glad it was helpful!

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  23. Hi Shams,
    Just saw this post and love thinking about that Paris trip. I swear the anticipation and preparation are half the fun. I'm coming to Oakland from Oct 4-9th (to get a grandbaby "fix"). About how long would it take to drive to the zipper place? - I'm so envious of all the great places you have so close by!!
    When do you leave for Paris? We are going to Dalmation coast from Oct 19-Nov. 2nd. So I'm sewing up a bit of travel wardrobe myself.
    Mary T.

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    1. Hey Mary! The zipper place is near the San Francisco airport (ish). How long it takes to drive there depends on traffic since you'd have to go over the Bay Bridge but maybe 30 or 40 minutes? I'll be in Paris after you. You are SO RIGHT that planning is half the fun! I hope you are enjoying your process!

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  24. Coming from Patty's party. Great scarf! I love the vest you sew.

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  25. Gorgeous layering vest (love the zipper!) and scarf. Thanks for sharing your skills with Visible Monday,xo

    -Patti
    http://notdeadyetstyle.com

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  26. Hi Shams,
    Your Presto top is lovely. Did you use a double layer of this sweater knit fabric for the front of this top?
    Does the double layer make it a bit thick?
    Thanks.
    Prabha Tedrow

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    1. Thanks, Prabha! Yes, the front is double thickness. It might be problematic in a thick/chunky sweater knit, but this is a fairly thin, malleable sweater knit. Savage Coco recently made the Presto in a lightweight sweatshirt knit which was also quite nice! (I saw hers in person.)

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  27. They are Perfect Pairings. Flawless!

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  28. What a great resource you are! I was at the Britex Projkt Fashion Show last night. The person sitting next to me pointed you out and told me she followed your blog. I checked it out on my phone and book marked. Thank you.

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