Monday, December 5, 2016

Red Plaid Wool Jacket with Scarf


Hey! It's Shams from Communing with Fabric with another project made from a fabulous Britex fabric!

For this project, my assignment was to choose one of Britex's beautiful wools. I visited the store just a couple days before I left for Europe to make my choice. After much deliberation, I selected Mock Patchwork Plaid Wool.

This fabric is gorgeous! The photos don't really do it justice. It is a large scale, varied plaid. The wool is very soft—similar to cashmere—and it has a beautiful drape. It reminds me of a substantial, cozy flannel.

I brought the fabric home and went off to Europe. I needed time to mull over how I might use it. While in Paris, I spent time seeking out plaid coats—maybe you noticed that I included several plaid coats in my photo summaries.

In the end, I decided to make a long, unlined jacket trimmed with faux leather featuring welt pockets, three-quarter-length sleeves, and closed with a double-ended separating zipper.

I started with Butterick 6328, view C.

Butterick 6328

Pattern Alterations and Modifications

I made a number of changes to the pattern, some for fit and some for style. Fit changes:

  • Added a 1.5" FBA - introducing a high side dart (more on that later). (Typical)
  • Narrowed the shoulder by 3/4". (Typical)
  • Added a 1/2" forward shoulder adjustment. (Typical)
  • Added a 3/4" broad back adjustment - introducing a back shoulder dart. (Somewhat typical)
  • Shortened the sleeves by 1". (Typical)
Style changes:
  • Omitted the collar.
  • Replaced the side seam pockets with angled welt pockets.
  • Lengthened the body of the coat by several inches.
  • Added a double-ended separating zipper closure.
  • Omitted all facings, replacing them with faux leather trim that encases the raw edges.
  • Clean finished the inside using several different techniques.
  • Cut the sleeves on the bias.
  • Increased the 1-1/4" hem to 2".
  • Used the leftover fabric to sew a coordinating scarf. I've made this Koos-inspired Moebius infinity scarf many times before. The dimensions of this one was 48" by 19".
Worn as an open jacket

Working With a Large Plaid

When I returned from Europe and started playing with the fabric, I noticed that the plaid contained a 4-1/2" black-and-white checkerboard that "popped" when I studied it in the mirror. This put me in mind of how Burberry uses a large scale plaid in their shirts. In fact, I made a Burberry inspired plaid shirt several years ago.

While I think of this as an unlined jacket, I can also wear it as a dress!

I decided to use this plaid in a similar way, but this time in a longer, unlined jacket version. I fussy cut the pattern pieces very intentionally, replicating the layout of the Burberry shirt, and using the large plaid asymmetrically with the checkerboard as the focal point.

Partly zipped, with the matching Moebius scarf
Red wool hat purchased in Paris!

I've been matching plaids for years but, if you are new to this, there are many tutorials available to walk you through the process. Here are some considerations unique to my project:

  1. My pattern has only a few seams, so there aren't many places that might require matching: side seam, shoulder seam, armhole seam, and center front.
  2. I added a bust dart to the side seam, horizontal to the bust point, so the darts are high up. I match the plaid from the hem to the bust dart. Because the bust dart is high, there are only a few inches above the dart that don't match and that's hidden except when my arms are raised.
  3. For wearing ease, I added a shoulder dart to the back shoulder. Because of the shoulder dart in back and the bust dart in front, it's impossible to match the side seams and the shoulder seams. I hid the shoulder seam under a faux leather strip, which minimizes the fact that the plaid does not match.
  4. I cut the sleeves on the bias, placing a checkerboard at the top-front of the right sleeve and the bottom-front of the left sleeve. This avoids having to match the plaid at the armholes, and also balances the checkerboard above the right bust, creating a pleasing diagonal line through the 3 checkerboards. Additionally, the faux leather strips around the armhole minimize the break in the plaid.
  5. A patch pocket would have required plaid matching, but I used a welt pocket with a contrasting faux leather welt. I prefer a welt pocket over a patch pocket, and the contrast eliminates the need for matching.

Finishing the seams and raw edges

A clean inside

Because I think of this garment as an unlined jacket, I finished all of the raw edges. I handled this using a variety of techniques:

  • I sewed the shoulder seams wrong sides together. Pressed the seams open, trimmed, and covered raw edges with 1-1/4" strips of faux leather. Both edges of the faux leather were turned under 1/4", and hand stitched to the jacket.
  • The side seams are sewn to the inside, pressed open, and each raw edge covered with bias tape.
  • I used the pattern to create front and back armhole facings 1-1/2" wide, cut from faux leather. I stitched the front and back facings together to form a circle, laid the wrong side of the facing to the right side of the jacket (after the shoulder and side seams were sewn), and machine stitched 1/4" from the raw edge. I then turned the remaining raw edge under 1/4" and hand stitched to the jacket. After inserting the sleeves, I covered the armhole seams on the inside of the jacket with bias binding.
  • I used the pattern to create front and back neck facings 1-1/2" wide, cut from faux leather. I stitched the facings together to form a single unit. I had sewn the separating zipper to the wrong side of the garment, so that the raw edge folded to the front. I sewed the finished facing with the wrong side to the back of the garment, trimmed to 1/8", and folded the leather to the front. Finally, I turned the raw edge under 1/4" and hand stitched in place.
  • After finishing the front raw edges, the 2" hem was covered with bias tape and hemmed normally. Note that the pattern calls for a 1-1/4" hem, which I increased to 2".
  • I used the sleeve pattern (at the 3/4-length marking) to create a 1-1/4" hem facing, cut from faux leather. I sewed the right side of a 1-1/4" strip of faux leather to the wrong side of the sleeve hem. Pressed the seam open, trimmed to 1/8", and turned the strip to the right side of the sleeve. I turned the raw edge of the faux leather under 1/4" and stitched by hand to create a visible binding.
Back

I will be getting much wear from my new jacket. Thanks to Britex for providing this beautiful fabric!

And please join me on Patti's Visible Monday! and Style Crone's Hat Attack! ('Cause, better late than never!)

96 comments:

  1. Love the jacket, but tell me about the red hat! ❤️

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    1. I bought that in Paris, Harriet! And thanks!

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    2. Heavy sigh. ๐Ÿ˜• Yet another reason to go to Paris.

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  2. This is stunning and I love how you used the leather binding! BTW, I heard that Britex is moving. Do you know where yet?

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    1. Thanks, Carolyn! I heard they were moving, then I heard they are staying put for the time being. I don't know anything besides what's been reported, but I am paying attention!

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  3. Beautiful fabric, gorgeous jacket! And the hat... fun!

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  4. Love this. Do you like it better with the red boots or the black boots?

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    1. Must I choose, Susan? I love both! :)

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    2. Yet another reason we need more than two feet...๐Ÿ˜

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  5. Wow,, love it,, how do you come up with such ideas for fabric?

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    1. Thanks, sewbluetiful! You know, I don't know. I just mull it over and play with the fabric.

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  6. So fabulous! I love how you "simmered" this while we were in Paris. You did good!

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    1. Thanks so much, Margy! And thanks for keeping an eye out for plaid garments in Paris. Even though I didn't use any ideas we saw, it was fun to be on a plaid hunt!

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  7. Its great!!! You really are the queen of wonderful coats :)

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  8. What a gorgeous jacket! This will see you nicely through warmer winter days.

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  9. Very nice. I love the trim and your 'Red Hat'.

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  10. What an absolutely beautiful jacket and I love your styling. The leather trim is fab. Xx

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  11. Really love what you have done with the plaid. Perfect

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  12. Very smart how you constructed the jacket, adding the leather was another brilliant detail! Such a fresh look, love the hat and how you styled yourself....great job!

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  13. I've been following you almost from the beginning but I rarely comment. I have to say though that this jacket is stunning! Maybe my favorite from your prolific sewing room. Your techniques are spot on too. Great job!

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    1. Thanks so much, Peggy! And welcome!

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    1. Thanks, Jeanne! I've been enjoying your festive Baltimore pics on IG. :)

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  15. You did an amazing job and the fabric does indeed look luxurious! Thanks for linking up, xo

    -Patti
    http://notdeadyetstyle.com

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  16. This is absolutely stunning ! Your fabric placement for the sleeves really adds to the styling ! Not at all a critique, but why did you decide not to line this jacket ?

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    1. Hi, MaryEllen! I wanted a light weight jacket that I can also wear as a dress. I just didn't "see" it as lined. And thanks!

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  17. Fabulous! I love your plaid placement and the faux leather trim. So sleek and modern, and with a little whimsy. (That is how I think of you.)

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  18. How yards did it take? It is lovely.

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    1. Hi Russell. I think it was 3 yards? And thanks!

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  19. Love the leather trim, especially around the armscye. It really rivals designer, RTW sportswear. Congrats on a super creation.

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  20. love the fabric choice and the bias sleeves. I tried that a while ago and they are really comfortable.

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    1. Yes, I love bias sleeves! And thanks, Beth!

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  21. Shams this is a very nice jacket. I love the thought process you went through to achieve a good design. A very stylish classic...

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  22. Such a gorgeous outcome, Shams. Beautifully thought out and made. You look terrific!!

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  23. Another stunning jacket! Love the use of the faux leather trim. That hat is just perfect for you & the coat.
    Janet

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  24. GREAT jacket. I have that pattern!! Now the ideas are running amuck in my head. A packing and moving on the 20th so will be a while. Thanks for the inspiration. Beautiful job, as always
    Marcia

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    1. Thanks, Marcia! Yes, I think this jacket pattern is a great basic! The fact that it meets at CF means that it's great for adding a zipper, or you can add if you want to use buttons or whatever.

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  25. Where do I start? Searching for the best adjectives to describe my response to this most outstanding creation! What comes to mind is: SUPERCALIFRAGILISTICEXPIALIODCIOUS! You look great in this jacket/dress, scarf and hat. Will study this again when I get into plaid. Ideas, you are all about IDEAS. Happy Holidays to you!

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    1. Aw, thanks, Margene! And happy holidays to you!

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  26. Words fail! Love your posts! I'm inspired....off to my sewing room!

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  27. No matter what fabric you put your hands on, you can make it work. And make it work fabulously.
    If that beret is more raspberry than red (maybe my monitor) but that's the red you should wear. Totally suits you.

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    1. Thanks, Ruth! Yes, the reds are a tad different but I don't mind. ;)

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  28. Smashing jacket as always, and thanks for going into so much detail regarding your thought process and construction.

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  29. It's a winner! You've made pretty good plaid into a stunning jacket.

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  30. I absolutely LOVE this jacket-really topnotch work shams!

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  31. I love the way you handled this plaid. Not a lumberjack in sight! All your mulling paid off in this sophisticated pattern layout. So satisfying--it seems like something you could look at all day without the eye getting tired or bored.

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    1. Thanks for that kind compliment, Elle!

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  32. Fabulous jacket. You really used this large scale plaid to best advantage. I especially like the bias cut sleeves with black and white check sections high on one sleeve, low on the other and the black pleather trim.

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  33. This is fabulous!!! And you look fabulous in it!! Wow-----how ever do you find time for this beautiful, creative sewing? Loved our time together in Paris. Miss you. Ruth H

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    1. Thanks so much, Ruth! It was great getting to know you in Paris and I hope we can meet up again soon!

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  34. I love your jacket and with the red hat it looks lovely. You should get lots of wear, so stylish.

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  35. This is SPECTACULAR!!!! Love the jewels and jaunty red hat, too. I bow to the Master. Cindy (Creative Hormone Rush)

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  36. Delicious! Thank you for listing all the changes and steps for the rest of us...truly inspiring and so chic! Thank you also for giving us permission to make a jacket that is NOT lined!

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    1. Thanks, Mrs Mole, for your kind words!

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  37. I think this is my most favorite of all the lovely garments I've seen you make over the years. Fabulous fabric, fabulous sewing and you look wonderful in it.

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    1. Thanks so much, Bunny! That is quite a compliment!

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  38. I've stayed away from large plaids due to my large bust and heavy middle but your latest garment has me re-thinking. This jacket is beautiful and the plaid placement is so perfect. I must say I love all your recent hat purchases. Karen

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    1. Karen, if it works for my large bust and heavy middle, I don't see why it wouldn't work for you! Thanks so much!

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  39. As always, your sewing and fashion skills amaze me. For those of us that are more challenged, could you give a brief explanation of how you did the Koos-inspired scarf with only one fabric? Did you still spiral/patched the fabric on the diagonal?

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    1. Thanks so much, Mountain Woman! You cut a rectangle and fold it as shown in Linda Teufel's blog post (which I linked to from my post). I have to admit, it's a bit hard to show in photos. I wonder if Linda would be willing to make a short video or whether she'd be OK if I did.

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  40. Wow, Shams... that jacket RULES everything!

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  41. Amazing design work in creating this coat! The fussy-cutting and faux leather detail stitchery is lovely. Thanks so much for sharing the details.

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  42. You look absolutely stunning in this gorgeous make. Thank you for the, as always, detailed construct methods. So appreciated. As plaid is a fav color of mine, I am inspired. A faithful reader

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  43. Looks totally fabulous, just like yourself! Merry Christmas!

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    1. Thanks so much, Kyle! And Happy New Year!

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  44. What a gorgeous jacket. You are right - it can easily double as a dress. Your fussy cutting is perfect and bias cutting the sleeves gave me inspiration to try this method. I have always shied away from large printed fabric as it seemed too hard to match. The scarf and hat complete an exceptionally stylish look. Congratulations.

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  45. I'm using this "holiday week" to catch up with my favorite blogs. This garment, your construction notes and photos are absolutely the best! thanks for your generosity in sharing your abundant know-how! And wishing you a new year filled with love, creativity and accomplishment!

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    1. Thanks so much, lei, and the same to you!!

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  46. Your red wool hat is so smart! It looks great with the plaid, you did a fantastic matching job. I always look forward to your creations! Thanks for participating in Hat Attack!

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    1. Thanks, SC! I just saw your IG posts today and you are looking fabulous, as usual!

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