Friday, September 1, 2017

A Shacket for Shams


Contents:


Linen Shacket

I recently attended a gathering where two sewists had made Katherine Tilton's Shacket, Butterick 6491. Some of you know Ann Smith, one of the sewists, and her shacket was great! I had the pattern in my stash, but seeing hers moved it waaaay up in the queue.

Katherine Tilton's Shacket, Butterick 6491
It looks great, right?!

My version is more shirt than jacket. I used a beautiful printed linen purchased from Emma One Sock. The only difference between view A and view B is the pattern layout. View B is designed for border prints, so requires more fabric. I made a size large (16-18), which is typical for me. I added an FBA, which gave me a bit more needed width. View A calls for 3-1/2 yards of 45" fabric, or 3 yards of 60". I had 2-1/2 yards of 52" fabric.

Why do I keep doing this to myself? I managed to squeeze mine out of the yardage I had with only small scraps left over. Here are my changes to the pattern:

  • Shortened the 3-pc sleeve by 1".
  • Cut some parts of the shacket on the cross grain to make the layout work with less fabric.
  • Performed a vertical only FBA. (In other words, I added no length to the front, I removed it.)
  • Performs a forward shoulder adjustment.
  • Performed a 3/8" rounded back adjustment. (My first!!! Oh, the glories of aging.)

I purchased the unique buttons at Britex, on sale for $1 each!

OK, it's done. I can wear it, but I'm not sure that I like it on me. Notice how unbalanced the hem is? I made the pattern as designed, and it's nowhere near that wonky on Ann or anyone else who has made it. I assume that, because my hips are so narrow, they don't hold the hem up as designed. I should have fixed it, but I didn't notice the extreme wonky-ness until I took the pics. I'm not sure I like it well enough to fix the hem.

I decided to experiment, once again, with the width of my pants legs. The next pic shows the shacket with my chiffon/challis pants and was actually the first pic I took. I'm wearing the pants backwards, just for the photo—so you only see challis and no chiffon. I also wore heavier jewelry in this pic. When I saw the resulting image, I decided it might work better with a narrower pant and lighter jewelry.

So... I don't know! I love the collar, I love the linen fabric, the sleeves are good...

I'll wear it a few times and see if it grows on me.

Butterick 6491


Artistry in Fashion 2017

See that necklace in the lower left? Scroll down to see me wearing it. :)

This year Artistry in Fashion (or AIF, as we call it), is on Saturday, September 23rd and the guest speaker is Sandra Betzina. If you are anywhere near Redwood City, CA that day, you should come!!!


Bakelite Party and Other Stuff

I must say that Instagram has opened up a whole new world for me. I've been able to speak directly with designers and fashionistas that I admire. I've commissioned wearable art and jewelry, and I learned about Bakelite parties that happen 10 minutes from my house!

I attended a Bakelite party a week ago. I learned so much from some serious collectors and met some really nice, really passionate people!

I also came away with some fabulous bracelets. :)

Some of the bracelets for sale, organized by color

I took pics of what some of the other shoppers were purchasing (or at least trying on)

This shopper was visiting from Australia!

I purchased the 3 bracelets closest to my hand. I already owned the ribbed black bracelet, which is Lucite, not Bakelite.

The best thing that I learned?!
One husband watched me struggle getting bracelets on and off my wrist, over my giant knuckles. My hands were becoming more scraped and more sore. He asked why I wasn't using a plastic bag. What?!?! Why?!?! Because I had never heard of that trick! Another husband gave me one of his scented bags for picking up dog poop.
OMG, it worked like a charm!!!


We're having a spate of hot weather here. It was 97° F in San Francisco today, which is most unusual! It gave me an excuse to wear my Eccentric Designs necklace, made from old eyeglasses. (I prefer wearing it on days that I don't wear an overcoat.) I purchased this piece from Winnie (of Eccentric Designs) at Artistry in Fashion two years ago. Winnie will be there again this year! Just sayin'. :)

You can't really see in the pic above, but I'm also wearing these caged earrings, also purchased from Winnie!

I had put these shoes away, thinking I wouldn't wear them again until next spring, but I retrieved them today! I enjoyed this view while talking on the phone to DD1, who returned from Thailand last night.

Ciao, Thailand! Until next time!


This is a 3-day weekend in the U.S. Stay cool, and stay safe, wherever you may be! (I'm thinking of the folks in the flood zones, and am grateful that my work matches charitable donations.)

43 comments:

  1. Thank you for continuing to blog your wonderful creatsions. I wonder if some creative darting might help the profile of your shacket? I don't notice anything wrong with the hem. Yes to the slim pants and lighter necklace! You are an inspiration with your fearless experimentation.

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    1. Thanks, Glenda! It's a thought. I'm not sure if I want to spend a lot more time on this one. :)

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  2. Love your new make. It is great with leggings. It looks good on you! Enjoy and forget your criticisms!

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  3. I see what you mean about the hem wonkiness... It doesn't dip on the sides in the pattern photos and line drawings or on Ann's version. Indon't think it is about hips or lack thereof. However it could very well pass as an intentional design detail. That being said, it does seem quite wide on you and maybe it overpowers your frame a bit? Maybe narrow the sides and evening the hem would help? I do love the way the bolder necklace fills in the neckline and draws the up to your face, but agree the lower part is a bit much. Sounds like you put some effort in and sorry you are on the fence about this item. I do agree with you that there is something just a bit off about it. But, you are an adventurous sewist and nothing ventured nothing gained, right?

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    1. Thanks, Helen. The in-seam pockets make it difficult to take the side seam in. I do think that evening the hem would help, but i'm not sure I want to spend more time on this one.

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  4. I wonder with the shacket if the linen stretched out on the cross grain cuts? I think the hem looks fine, just different. Great fabric.

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    1. Hey, Vicky! No, the fronts and back were cut on grain. I had to cut parts of the 3-piece sleeve off grain.

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  5. You have a great eye, so changing the pant silhouette and the jewelry were good calls. Give it a go to see if you and this new shape can be friends. Thanks for another wonderful blog post and see you at Artistry in Fashion.

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  6. I would prefer the shacket buttoned up with no necklace. . Wearing narrow pants and tapering the sleeves from the elbow down would help. In other words keep the appendages narrow. Your lovely linen print and the funky shape already speak volumes.

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    1. I'll try it buttoned up, JdeV, and maybe play with the sleeve.

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  7. Interesting post! Frost on our Vermont roof this morning.

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    1. So, fall is arriving to Vermont, Martha? Good to hear from you!

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  8. Hi Shams, love the jacket with the straight pants (which u ALWAYS rock!). How about the jacket buttoned up with a long necklace? The one you are wearing in the picture could work. You have the best accessories! Btw the hem is fine.

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    1. I'll have to try that, Gloria. That's how Ann wears it! (In general, a v-neck is more flattering to the large busted, but it's worth a try!)

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  9. Ya know Shams, after looking at you and at Ann, I would say your only problem is that yours looks way too big overall. It looks like you could have gone down a few sizes and just done a FBA. Or at least narrowed some off the bottom. You need to get away from it but don't give up on it. If it wasn't so big it would be really cute on you and you have the style to pull it off. Love your new bracelets!

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  10. I'm pretty much over the uneven hem look too, and how odd that yours turned out like that! I don't mind the look that the pattern envelope is showing, but yours is not that! If/when you decide to fix it, I think whacking off the dips and making it straight across like the area in the front would do it. It looks too long to me, with the dips.

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    1. Hey, bdejong, I'm not sure I'll bother fixing it. It doesn't bother me THAT much. I may wear it a few times as-is and see if it grows on me. :)

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  11. It looks great on you. I think the Shacket is B6491, rather than B6492.

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  12. I love it on you...and I think the hemline dip is very cool! If I make one, I hope it will turn out just like that!

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  13. The shacket is great I love the print and I think it is flattering on you but I see what you mean about the hem. I'd recut the hem to take about the extreme dip at the sides.

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  14. You used "my fabric" and I'm sad that you don't love the resulting garment. Hopefully you will figure out something that will make it work for you. I hope you get some sewing in this weekend!

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    1. Thanks, Carolyn! I've been sewing a bit, but it's been SO HOT, that it definitely affected my productivity!

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  15. Love the shaket. It's next in my queue too. I think a couple of judicious tucks on each side would bring the "dips" up to the right level and would take you maybe five minutes. I just did that to a dress the other day that was almost scraping the ground. Did it while I was wearing it! That was fun. A bit Mammy Yokum for those of you who remember Lil Abner. Worked very well.

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    1. You might be right, Barbara. I think I'll let it sit awhile and revisit.

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  16. The "Shacket" looks good...but I agree with the idea that it's overall too big on you. Can't figure out how you got points on the side, given the line drawing and Ann's make. Put it away for a while and come back later!

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    1. Yeah, I think I'll do that. Let it go into the closet for awhile. ;)

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  17. I cut mine entirely on the cross grain. My fabric is almost the same. I don't get it.

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    1. I really think it has to do with my proportions. I made a size 18 and my hips are several sizes smaller, so it just "hangs".

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  18. Just want to say how much I enjoy your posts. Love your creative sewing and fabric choices! You inspire me to try new things. I was in San Francisco this week, ready to enjoy cooler weather...the heat was a surprise as I had not packed for that! We thoroughly enjoyed our short visit there. I was even able to make a quick trip into Britex.

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  19. Hi Prilla! I'm sorry we disappointed you with our weird weather! The fog *finally* rolled in tonight, so it looks like we'll be returning to our normal patterns, thank goodness! I'm so glad you made it to Britex!

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  20. I'll chime in, although kinda late! I love that Shacket!!! Especially on you! I like the skinny pant, too. I'm putting this pattern in the "next up" pile for sure!

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  21. Hmmm am dying to make this KT top...but after seeing yours not so sure....I would definitely take it in on the sides, and get rid of that wonky hem...does nothing for you...or maybe cut off the hem first, and see how it fits, it may become somewhat of a big shirt in the future....have the same fab from E1Sock...I;m still petting mine....Keep up the good work, Laura

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  22. Hi The Couture Counsellor Team,

    My name is Anuj Agarwal. I'm Founder of Feedspot.

    I would like to personally congratulate you as your blog The Couture Counsellor has been selected by our panelist as one of the Top 40 Plus Size Sewing Blogs on the web.

    http://blog.feedspot.com/plus_size_sewing_blogs/

    I personally give you a high-five and want to thank you for your contribution to this world. This is the most comprehensive list of Top 40 Plus Size Sewing Blogs on the internet and I’m honored to have you as part of this!

    Also, you have the honor of displaying the badge on your blog.

    Best,
    Anuj

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  23. So nice to finally have internet service and see your post. Living in Houston has been so depressing as we see piles of first floor items (all of them) in front of homes. We were lucky and only had a couple inches of water in our sunken living room. Regarding your shacket I feel the overall shape doesn't flatter your shape. Being of similar build I also made this pattern and was unhappy with the results so it got donated. Love your new bracelets. Karen

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    1. Karen, I'm so glad you've weathered the weather! But, oy, it sounds just horrific. I hope your area can recover soon!

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  24. What a cute fabric! Your fabric choices as always are perfect :-) Thank you for sharing these beautiful sewing patterns ideas.

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