Sunday, March 4, 2018

Burda Anorak Jacket


Hey, there! I hope 2018 has been kind to you, so far! 2018 has had its rough edges, at least for me, but let's not dwell on that.

Today I have a spring jacket to share. Elliott Berman Textiles gave me this beautiful reversible jacquard last November. It arrived just before I left for Japan and I loved it, but then I fell and rolled, backwards, down an escalator in Tokyo within an hour of landing. The resulting injury to my dominant (left) hand has slowed my sewing output.

After deliberating, I decided I wanted to use a Burda anorak pattern. I downloaded it from the Burda site, but I gather it's from the September 2014 issue of their magazine, if you have that.

Unfortunately, Elliott Berman has sold out of this fabric, but they have other brocades and jacquards.

I've made a lot of changes to the pattern, but it's been awhile, so let me see if I can remember all of them...

  • The pattern is from their collegiate collection and is sized in "tall" sizes. I'm not used to their tall sizing, but went with it anyway. I ended up using the original length for my size. I could have shortened the armhole, which is long, but I didn't. I really like the large, 3-piece sleeve that reminds me of the 80s.
  • I didn't need to add width to the pattern, so I did a vertical-only FBA.
  • I eliminated the elastic sleeve hem. I left the sleeve long so I could fold it back and show off the Petersham ribbon hem.
  • I hemmed the entire jacket with Petersham ribbon, in two colors. I originally bought 5 yards in a plum shade, but ran out. I went back and bought another 1-2 yards (I can't remember exactly) but I neglected to bring a sample of the original ribbon, so this time I got a more purple color. I decided to use it anyway, as I liked using both colors. I hand sewed the ribbon, which means I sewed 12-14 yards by hand, since I hand sewed each edge.
  • I omitted the drawstring at the hem.
  • The pattern calls for 4 yards of fabric, and I had 2.5, so I had to be judicious. I omitted the back shield.
  • Instead of the 3 pockets from the original pattern, I made two front patch pockets finished with Petersham ribbon.
  • The hood was supposed to be finished with a narrow trim from the same fabric, but this curved shape takes a lot of fabric, so I replaced with a plum-colors cotton stretch velveteen.
  • I harvested the beautiful selvedge from the fabric and inserted it into the upper sleeve seam.
  • I lined the (unlined) hood. By the way, I like this hood as a collar, but not so much as a hood.
  • I added shoulder pads, covered with the lining.
  • I replaced the zipper with 3 buttons. I sewed the very last bit of Petersham ribbon on each side of the buttonholes.
  • This pattern is quite boxy. I narrowed the side seam, at the waist, by 1/2", for a total removal of 2". I also added two 3/8" tucks in the back at the waist, removing another 1-1/2". I left it boxy, but not too boxy.

And now, for some pics!

Harvesting selvedge. When a selvedge is nice, I harvest it even if I'm not sure that I'll use it.

Sewing the selvedge into the sleeve

The selvedge is a bit uneven, but I let it be.

Spring has been glorious here in San Francisco

I used the last bit of Petersham by sewing it on either side of the 3 buttonholes.

I usually don't bother covering shoulder pads, but I've been in a slow-sewing mode!

Once I finished covering the shoulder pads, I had to cut some of them off, or they would have peeked outside the neckline. I guess my shoulders are narrow. Patterns certainly seem to indicate that I have narrow shoulders, as I'm always narrowing them, though I didn't in this pattern. I decided to go with the wider shoulder, as part of the boxy look.)

The 3-piece hood. I trimmed with some stretch velveteen and lined with Ambiance.

I enjoy finding backdrops with different textures

Hand sewing

Covering the hood seam

And more hand sewing. Lots more.

Fabulous earrings by Pam Neri.
(I buy from her right off Instagram. See something you like on her feed? Message her!)

I bought this fringed leather purse for DD1 in Florence last spring, but she didn't want it.

Taking in the side seams at the waist.

Thanks, Elliott Berman, for the fabric!
I paid for all other supplies.


Misc

These days I want to blog projects, but not travel or other activities. You can follow me on Instagram to see my current hijinks. You don't have to join Instagram, unless you want to leave comments.

Here are a few miscellaneous pics, and one video.

I was recently in Venice Beach, CA for DartConf 2018, a Dart language conference that I helped organize. Actually, my primary contribution was producing swag for the event. I had so much fun getting a plushie made. I gave a brief talk, introducing him at the conference. Meet Dash! (If you want to hear my voice, it's a 2-minute video...)

Loving Dash!

I'm proudest of the first ribbon, "Chief Plushie Officer"!

Since I never posted about Christmas, here are a few pics. I took my daughters to the Claremont Hotel and Spa in the Berkeley Hills. We were upgraded to the presidential suite. It was pretty sweet!

Christmas morning

Love these munchkins!

Visiting Twin Peaks on Christmas afternoon

Taking a selfie

Too bright to see the screen. LOL

Christmas view from the Presidential suite

Christmas morning

Visiting Britex a couple days after Christmas

A recently purchased outfit that I'm enjoying. The vest is from Simply Bella (she may have more in stock - if interested, give her a call). I purchased the pants in Venice Beach, when I visited in January.

People often ask about my fingers, so I took this pic this morning, exactly 104 days after the accident. I am using them, though the nail on the pointer finger is growing in with a split down the middle. I really miss my fingernails! Without them, it's almost impossible to pick up pins and needles.

What's next for me? I have an upcoming sewing retreat, a trip to London, and lots of deadlines at work! It will be pretty busy between now and Google I/O, in May.

36 comments:

  1. Soooo glad to hear from you . Was starting to worry. Thanks. DEEDEE

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    1. Thanks, DeeDee, but no need to worry! In future, I don't plan to blog unless I have a completed project. Just check my Instagram feed to see what's up. (You can find it at www.instagram.com/sfshaza, but the link is in the upper right corner of my blog)

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  2. I really missed your blog! II always look forward to your “New makes” and most of all so glad to see your fingers are healing! I must say you are my sewing inspiration!

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  3. I so love this jacket on you. Thanks for the detailed post - beautiful work.
    Wait! Burda has talls? Wow. My 6’1” grandbabe can finally have some new grandma-sewn clothes. Thanks for this info.

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    1. Thanks, Jan. Yes, Burda has tall patterns and they generally publish a pattern in only one range of sizes. So they have their normal range, then they have their plus size range, and their tall range. But a pattern is generally only available only in one of these ranges.

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  4. Great jacket. All that hand sewing---which I love---but with your healing fingers! Good for you! Show the imp of the perverse who's in charge! Looking forward to your posts from London.

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    1. Thanks, Jeanne! I love cool weather but wouldn't mind if it warms up just a tad before I go. :)

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  5. Me too - missed you! Love the jacket especially with the petersham trim. Sewing it all by hand had to be a labor of love. So sad to see your fingers. Karen

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    1. Thanks, Karen! But I think I've seen you on IG, yes? The doctor and I are still waiting to see how the nail continues to progress but, yes, I wish it weren't split. I'm not eager about surgery, given how excruciating the injury was. I use it, but it's definitely tender and it feels like there's some sort of alien object in the pad of that finger.

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  6. great jacket, that touch of burgundy color looks great on you. And hope your fingers get back to being as adept as they once were! also - I know you will find a creative use for that nice selvedge. And spring being glorious? I don't know about that one, over my way it is positively freezing!

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    1. Thanks, Beth! The weather is changing, for sure. A couple weeks ago, glorious, then heavy rain, and now sunny-but-cold. I'm avidly watching the weather in London.

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  7. Its so good to hear from you and I hope you have been well. Love the jacket.

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  8. I was wondering about why your pictures were smaller than usual then as I got further into the post I understood why. *smile* Love the new jacket and glad you're fingers are healing.

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    1. My photos are smaller?! That shouldn't be, Carolyn. Most of them are actually saved at a larger size than displayed on a web page. Hm....

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  9. I gasped when I saw your poor fingers, and can only imagine how painful that has been! love your jacket, especially the way you've added texture upon texture upon texture. The photo with the bricks (more texture!) is my fave. Hope your healing continues to progress....

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    1. Thanks, Elle! Yup, it's been a journey of healing. :) It was what they call a "severe" injury (I read the reports by the Japanese surgeon), but it could have been worse. Thanks for your feedback!

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  10. The jacket is great - the two colours of petersham is miles better than one colour would have been. Really fantastic.

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    1. Thanks, Radostin! Yes, I think it was a lucky accident!

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  11. Your fingers are healing nicely. Hope the nails co-operate. Love the jacket, how you styled it and all the lovely photos! All very creative.

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  12. So much fun to hear your voice on the video! So sorry about your accident, and of course it had to happen in a foreign country, right?

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    1. Of course, but at least the healthcare in Japan was excellent. :)

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  13. Oh your poor fingers! I know someone who had something similar happen to one of her/his fingers (can't remember who, it's lost in the mists of time) and eventually the nail did grow back together. I hope the same will happen to you.

    Have a wonderful time in London, whatever the weather.

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    1. Thanks for giving me hope, ElleC!

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  14. WELL, all those teasers were definitely worth it...the jacket is fabulous! Such yummy colors which you improved upon with your gorgeous trims. I think I have a crush on petersham...
    Christmas looks like fun...has DD#1 always been blond? Somehow I thought she had dark hair. Maybe she did...
    I hope it warms up a little in London for your wonderful trip...I will be haunting IG to see pictures!

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    1. Thanks, Margy! Most of the details are fairly subtle, I think. :) DD1 likes to experiment with hair colors. Her normal color is dark. Thanks again for your extra pounds!

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    2. I got on the scale...the pounds were still on my body!

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    3. Nooo. They're here. The scale lies.

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  15. Loved, loved this post, start to finish. So great to see what you've been up to, Shams. Jacket excellence=check...Dart=check+...winter holiday, always fun to see you having fun with the girls.
    Miss you!

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    1. Thanks so much, Gayle! I love hearing about your escapades, too. :D

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  16. Missed you so much! It was so fun to catch up with all your "doin's". How much do I love that jacket! So very cool. And still loving the new hair. All in all, your fingers are doing better, hope the nails grow back but glad to see the improvement. Good to hear from you!

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    1. Thanks, Kathleen! How can you miss me when you see me all the time on Facebook. ;) Good to hear from you, and thanks!

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  17. I've eyed this pattern for forever as a "cool,casual" coat. I LOVE yours!!! It has so much awesome detail and that fabric!! Swoon!!!

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    1. I do think it's a great pattern! Just be prepared for the tall sizing and consider grading it down in the armhole. I like it big, but you might not. And thanks!

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