Tutorial - Sleeve Hem with Zipper and Gusset

This is another tutorial inspired by the Style Arc Ziggi jacket. Previously, I wrote a tutorial on how to create the exposed zipper pockets.

The Ziggi, as with many moto jackets, features zippers at the sleeve hems. The sleeves are 2-piece sleeves and the zipper is placed in the back seam. These instructions would work with any similar jacket.

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Note: Before you begin, make sure that you have checked the sleeve length and made any alterations to the pattern that are needed. It would be difficult, if not impossible, to lengthen or shorten the sleeve after the zippers are inserted. I should add that the Ziggi, like most Style Arc patterns, features a slim fit through the upper arm. You should also check the fit through the upper arm before cutting out your pattern.

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The Ziggi jacket does not call for a gusset in the zipper opening, but I decided to add a zipper gusset. It's an easy alteration. The pattern calls for 6" zippers, but the notches on the sleeves indicate a shorter zipper. I used 5" YKK zippers.

No pattern is provided for the zipper facing, but it is extremely easy to create.

As you can see, the length of the zipper's teeth is 5", however, when the zipper pull is pointed down, the length from the top of the zipper to the tip of the pull is 5-1/2". Because I do not want the zipper pull to hang below the sleeve hem, I will make the "window" for the zipper at 5-1/2" long.
The zipper window is created on the under sleeve, but here I have chalked the lines for the zipper window on a scrap of lining. (The dimensions of the lining scrap aren't essential, as the excess is later cut off.) The sleeve hem is 1-1/2" wide, so the 5-1/2" window starts at 1-1/2" above the bottom of the fabric. The width of the window is 1/2" plus 3/8" (the seam allowance), or 7/8" wide.
Pin the chalked lining piece to the right side of the Under Sleeve (*14) at the back seam. Stitch the seam using a short stitch.
Trim the seam allowance to approx 3/8". From the raw edge, clip at a diagonal, right to the corner.
Turn the facing to the inside of the fabric. Baste close to the fold.
The back side.
Pin the Under Sleeve (#14) to the Top Sleeve (#12 which has been previously joined to #13) at the back seam. Stitch. Press seam allowance open, and then towards the under sleeve.
The zipper window is now ready for the zipper.
Position the zipper in the center of the window, with the top of the zipper at the top of the window. Pin in place.
Using the zipper foot, topstitch along the full length of the seam. Then go back and topstitch along the remaining two edges of the zipper window. This secures the zipper in place. In the pic above, the zipper on the right has been topstitched in place. Remove the basting thread.
Both zippers are topstitched in place.
The back. The excess lining fabric has not yet been trimmed away.
Draft the gusset, if you want to use a gusset. It doesn't have to be precise - any excess can be trimmed later. For this gusset, the top is about 1-1/4" across. The length is about 7", which includes a 1" hem. The base of the gusset is about 4" across.
Cut 2 gusset pieces out of a scrap of lining fabric. I didn't want the polka dots to show on the outside when the zipper was unzipped, so I am used the back side of the polka dot lining fabric, which is solid black and slightly crinkled.
Hem the gussets.
Unzip the zipper. Position the gusset on the back of the sleeve, right side of gusset against the wrong side of the sleeve. (When the zipper is unzipped you should see the right side of the gusset.) Align the hem edge of the gusset with the end of the zipper's teeth. Pin the gusset to the seam allowance. (This is easiest when you have a seam allowance larger than 3/8".)
Flip the seam allowance over (I then move the pins to this side) and stitch the gusset to the seam allowance, as close as possible to the original line of stitching, and using a zipper foot. Then, pin the remaining side of the gusset to the seam allowance of the other side of the zipper and, once again, stitch as close to the stitching line as possible. (The picture shows stitching the second side of the gusset. There is a bit of excess gusset fabric, but that is fine.)
The gusset is now secured.
Back side of the gusset. Note the extra fabric - that can be trimmed away if it bothers you.
Back side of the gusset when the zipper is closed.
Next, stitch the other seam between the under sleeve and top sleeve, forming the sleeve tube. (No pic.)
Pin up the 1-1/2" hem. Topstitch, beginning and ending at the zipper. (I top-stitched at 1".) This completes the sleeve.
Closed zippers. Note that the zipper pull does not hang below the sleeve hem, as designed.
When these pics were taken, I had not yet lined the sleeves on the Ziggi jacket, so I am showing the sleeve from my Kwik Sew Moto Jacket. For this jacket, I created the zipper opening so that the end of the zipper teeth line up with the sleeve hem. This causes the zipper pull to hang below the sleeve hem when the zipper is closed. You have to decide which effect you prefer.
When lining the sleeve, hand sew the lining around the zipper opening, keeping the gusset free.

Baby, It's Cold Outside!

Thanks, everyone, for your kind wishes on my new job! I have been wrapping things up at my current job - I will miss the work and the people - but I am eager to get started at the new company.

So, have you heard about the SWANT?

I heard about it some time ago - it stands for SWeater PANT. Hey, JEGGINGS started this way, too. (Jean lEGGINGS.)

Anyway, people have been pinning (on Pinterest) instructions for refashioning a sweater into swants. And these two enterprising non-sewers have given it a try. They posted a video of their results.

You must check this out. :)

And on the subject of cold weather, I have broken out one of my favorite makes, from last Christmas, my flannel lined Style Arc Cassie pants. Ahhh, so warm and snuggly. I wore them last night for the 2013 Bernal Heights Holiday Evening Stroll.

Also, Margy has turned me on to another delightful cozy-warm product. I had heard about these, but it was her enthusiastic recommendation that opened my pocketbook: K. Bell Fleece Lined Legging.

Omigosh! I bought three pair and they are sooo nice. Smooth on the outside and fleecy on the inside. They do not make you look bulky. (After reading reviews, I did size up, btw.) I am planning to make more skirts to wear to work, and I will be enjoying these underneath. Thanks, Margy!

Finally, since this post has a cold theme, I also found the following video on Facebook: how to heat your room for a few cents a day. A very neat idea.

Stay warm, folks in the northern hemisphere! If you make any swants, please send me pics! (Stay cool, southern-hemisphere friends!)

Big News (for me), Not so Big News (for you)

Hey, gang!

First, I want to ask you something.

Have you ever found an out of print (OOP) or vintage pattern for sale online, perhaps on Ebay or Etsy, that you really liked?

And maybe you visited it every so often.

But you didn't buy it, because it was too expensive, or the wrong size.

Or maybe both?

And maybe you kept visiting it?

For months and months?

And maybe, one day, you couldn't find it?

Because you didn't "like" it, or bookmark it, or put a "watch" on it.

Maybe?

And maybe it was so long since you visited the page, that your browser history was no help at all?

So you went through many searches and scrolled through dozens and dozens of pages, looking for it?

And you wondered if it went to a good home?

And then you wondered how you felt about that?

Did you have any regrets?

And then maybe, just maybe, you did find it. And it was still available?

Yeah, me neither. :)

 

You'd have to have a heart of stone not to appreciate that inseam pocket...

So, for the big-news (for me), but the not-so-big-news (for you)....

In a little over one week, I am starting a new job!

It has been an honor and a privilege to contribute to the advancement, in some small way, of the Java programming language, but it's time to move on. I am very excited about my new venture. I will be documenting a new-to-me language.

What is the name of this new language, you ask?

Well, it's called.... (WAIT FOR IT) ....

DART

Seriously, how perfect is that?!?!?

I already envision making FBA jokes that, of course, my colleagues will not appreciate.

If you look at the wikipedia entry for the Dart programming language, you will know which company I am going to work for.

I am beyond psyched. I can't wait to tackle this new adventure!

It also means that I need a new work wardrobe.

Yes, dress is casual at work, but I will do my own thing.

I always do. :)

It also means that I will have less time to sew.

But that's ok. I'm not turning my back on sewing.

Or blogging.

I just may be a bit less prolific.

And life moves on.

I hope you can wish me luck!

Tutorial - Exposed Zipper Near-Seam Pockets

The Ziggi jacket from Style Arc features two exposed zipper pockets. These pockets are not positioned exactly in the center of the princess seams, but are right up against the princess seams. (This is why I call these "Near-Seam" Pockets, rather than "In-Seam" Pockets.)

The instructions that come with the pattern don't exactly tell you how to create these pockets. Or maybe they do, but I am a visual person and the written steps are difficult for me to parse. I tried, but could not understand them.

Luckily, I know how to sew. ;)

So, I decided to make a little tutorial, thinking that others might find it useful. These are great pockets and could be easily added to any jacket. They could be vertical, or angled. While my photo-tutorial outlines how to make these pockets for the Ziggi, these steps could easily apply to other patterns.

(Note: sorry, in advance, about the dark-ish pictures. When sewing on a dark fabric, with dark zippers, often in the dark, or on a dark day... Well, you know.)

The pattern calls for 6" (14cm) pocket zippers but, when I measured the notches on the pattern, they were a bit over 4". I purchased four 5" metal YKK zippers from Britex - the other two are for the sleeves. You can use a different length zipper, just adjust the window opening and the Pocket Bag/Pocket Facing pieces accordingly.

The pocket window is actually created on the Side Front (pattern piece #4). You need to create a three-sided window opening. (The fourth side happens when the Side Front is sewn to the Middle Front, #3.)

To create the window, you need a facing. There is no pattern piece included for the facing, but it is very easy to create. You could create the window directly onto a piece of lining fabric, but I am showing how to create it first on a piece of paper.

Lay the translucent paper over the Side Front, where the zipper will go. Trace off the side seam, which has very slight shaping in the Ziggi, with the 3/8" seam allowance. (Obviously, in the Big 4 patterns, you'd use a 5/8" seam allowance.)
Decide how wide and long you want the "window" to be. My zipper is 5" long, so I want the window to be 5" long. I want some of the zipper tape to show, so I want the "window" to be 1/2" wide. Add 1/2" to the 3/8" seam allowance. Draw the stitching line 7/8" from the fabric edge.
Replicate the stitching lines of the window on scraps of lining fabric. Use whatever marking method you prefer. I prefer the Clover Chaco Liner.
Pin the facing to the right side of the Side Front(s), #4. Stitch along the stitching line with a short stitch.
Trim the fabric away from the inside of the window, leaving about 1/4". Clip to the two corners, right to the corner.
Turn the facing to the wrong side. Baste in place. This pic shows the wrong side of the Side Front.
The Side Front, #4 (shown on the bottom), is now ready to be sewn to the Middle Front, #3 (shown on top).
Side Front (4) and Middle Front (3) pinned together and ready to sew.
The completed window.
The completed window, from the back side. The excess facing will be cut away.
Pin the zipper in place, making sure that it is centered in the window.
Topstitch, using your zipper foot. First topstitch the seam, then go back and topstitch the remaining three sides around the zipper, securing it in place.
The back side, before the excess facing is cut off.
Because I used a longer zipper than was marked on the pattern, I cut the Pocket Bag (#23), and Pocket Facing (#11), pieces to be a bit wider. You can always cut off the excess, so don't stress about this measurement too much, so long as it's wide enough.
Sew the Pocket Bags (23) to the Pocket Facings (11). Note that this step is easier in a garment with 5/8" seam allowances, but it is possible with a 3/8" seam allowance.

I don't have pics for the next couple of steps, but you sew the pockets to the seam allowances of the jacket, so that they are positioned properly. Make sure that the pocket is pointing towards center front. Then stitch around the pocket bags. The pocket bags don't line up completely. Again, don't stress over this. After stitching around the pocket bag, just trim off the extra width.

Voilà! Your beautiful pockets are done!

(And thanks, everyone, for your lovely comments on my Burda coat!)

Burda Knee Length Sweater Coat (with Oopsies)

Joining in Patti's Visible Monday!

I mentioned on my last post that Elizabeth brought this pattern to my attention. It is a Burda from the Dec 2010 issue, but it can be downloaded on the Burda site.

This coat is a fairly simple design and is perfect for showcasing a special fabric. It has no lining or facings or closures. I elected to finish it with a binding and I added some closures.

I had a very special fabric in mind for this coat.

A year ago, I bought an Italian wool sweater knit from Emma One Sock. It's a lofty, fairly stable, sweater knit, though the cut edge does curl a bit. I bought a little over one yard, which was all Linda had left - I planned to mix this fabric with another. Margy had also bought a couple yards of this fabric. Then Margy went through a bout of wool/lanolin allergy and she gifted her fabric to me.

So generous!

(By the way, I see that Marcy currently has some of this fabulous fabric for sale on her site.)

When I saw this Burda coat, I knew I wanted to use the wool sweater knit. I purchased the pattern and printed it out. I decided to use a size 40, based on my upper bust. I did do a vertical-only FBA, though I avoided sewing the dart and eased the extra fabric at the side seam at bust level. I made no other pattern alterations for fit.

I did make some very stupid mistakes when making this coat. People don't seem to believe I make stupid sewing mistakes, but I am quite capable! My first mistake happened when cutting. This fabric has an amazing selvedge, which is different on each edge. I decided to put the selvedge at the hem, reminding myself that the back and the fronts needed to be positioned along the same selvedge.

I first cut out the back. There is supposed to be a center back seam, but I didn't want to interrupt the fabric, so I placed the CB on the fold line. As soon as I finished cutting the back, as soon as I took that last snip, freeing the piece from the yardage, I realized my first blunder.

I forgot to add a seam allowance.

I was quite proud of my reaction. I didn't reach for food, alcohol, or anything else. I started thinking of how I might fix this. I then (calmly) called Margy. I said to Margy, notice how calm I am? I then told her what I had done and some of the ideas I was forming to work around this blunder. Margy proposed that I just add twice the seam allowance to the front (for example, to cut the front out with 1" seams, instead of half inch). I knew that would work well, as I really only had to worry about the shoulder and side seams - the neckline and front was to be finished with a binding. And I always have to cut fabric from the armscye anyway, thanks to my narrow shoulders.

First problem averted.

I then proceeded to cut out the fronts.

As soon as the fronts were cut out, I realized my second blunder. I had put the fronts on the OTHER selvedge edge, which definitely looks different, so the fronts and the back would not match up at the hem.

Once again, I was calm. I went to bed and decided I'd worry about it in the morning.

In the morning, I decided that I didn't want the selvedge on the hem anyway. The selvedge, while beautiful, is light-colored and I didn't want a lighter color at the hem. So, I cut the selvedges off the front and back. I decided that I wanted a slightly shorter coat, anyway. I hemmed the coat by turning up the raw edge.

Second problem averted.

I had a third blunder. And, you know what? I can't even remember what it was. So it couldn't have been so bad. ;)

Wait! I do remember! My third blunder was that I placed the pockets too low. I thought I had carefully marked where to put them, but they ended up too low. Not much I can do about that except pretend it was on purpose. :)

The pattern is designed with in-seam pockets. I am not a fan of in-seam pockets, so I sewed curved welt pockets. I used wool crepe for the welts and the pocket bags are made from scraps of black ponte.

Curved welts made from wool crepe
Pocket area reinforced with interfacing.
Completed pocket

I decided to bind the front and neck edge with a speckled, floppy sweater knit that was left over from a Sandra Betzina sweater I made years ago. But before binding, I wanted to stabilize the edge of the sweater. I sewed a 1/4" twill tape to the front and neckline edge, by hand.

Neckline and front edge reinforced with cotton twill tape.

The binding fabric sheds like crazy when cut. I cut the strips at 2-1/2" and folded the strips, wrong sides together, matching the raw edges. I sewed the raw edges of the binding to the front edge with a 1/4" seam allowance, wrapped it to the back, and hand stitched in place. (Because the knit was so floppy, I first hand basted the binding to the coat before stitching on the machine.)

Sweater knit used for binding, up close
Which sheds, when cut. (I used the back side, which is less shaggy, for the binding.) Binding up close
More binding

The coat is designed with no closures, but I used jumbo snaps at each front corner and a leather toggle just below the bust. I purchased the closure at Britex and used my hole punch to create the holes. I then sewed it on using black perl cotton. The coat is more functional in our foggy SF climate if I can close it.

Closure, up close, sewn with perl cotton

Finally, I took half a yard of faux Persian lamb, also purchased from Emma One Sock many moons ago (for another project), and sewed up a Koos style infinity scarf (sans twist).

There are lots of ways to wear this coat, thanks to the optional scarf and the optional closures. I have already worn it for three days straight. This may be one of my favorite makes ever! (It's like wearing a snuggly blanket.)

Faux Persian lamb infinity scarf

More Pics

With faux fur cowl
Without cowl
One lapel down
Both lapels down
Worn open

Pattern