Saturday, October 20, 2012

Matrix Top


This top started with a sample of a pleated pocket that Diane Ericson shared at DOL. I loved it. In her version, the background fabric was "built up" around the pocket, similar to the center of a log cabin quilt block, except framed with background fabric.

I wanted to use the same idea of a pleated pocket, but to attach it to the background fabric like a regular patch pocket. I made three sample pockets before I was happy with the result. I experimented to figure out how to minimize bulk while retaining the pleats - a challenge in this substantial fabric. I used a single thickness of the fabric - the top edge of the pocket is the fabric selvege.

The futuristic "matrix" print is a 100% woven rayon twill from Emma One Sock. It is amazingly soft, drapey and has a "brushed" surface. The companion fabric is a solid black 100% rayon faille that I acquired from my friend Heather N, who recently did some destashing.

This pattern is quickly becoming my favorite TNT for woven fabrics - it's an OOP Adri pattern from Vogue, used most recently for my artist smock. (And, yes, I did use my smock at DOL!) For this version, I made these changes:

  • Lengthened to fingertip length and created side slits.
  • Used the same v-neck I had used for the "casually elegant" jacket, but this time I drafted facings, since I used bias binding for that jacket.
  • The top has an asymmetric closing. I used black snap tape with white snaps for the closure. The snap tape is inserted into the right front edge between the outside and the facing, similar to a piping. (An idea from Diane E.)
  • I rolled the solid black facing to the outside far enough to create the effect of a tiny, 1/16" piping. (Another idea from Diane.)
  • I bought less yardage than usual, which is something Diane suggests to encourage a more creative approach. Because of this, I had to piece the sleeves. I decided to create a vertical insert in the sleeves. I put pleats in the sleeve inserts to echo the pleats on the pocket.
  • The sleeves 3/4 length and are edged with more of the snap tape.
  • I found two tiny holes in the fabric. I patched them with pieces of the fabric and frayed the edges.

There is a lot going on in this top, and it's a bit hard to see the detail because of the dark print, but I enjoy the subtle effect.

Constructing the pocket.
Creating the pleated sleeve insert.
One of the completed sleeves.
The snap tape is inserted into the right front between the garment edge and the facing.
One of the tiny holes that I covered with a self patch.
Completed patch.
The completed pocket with the other tiny patch above.

49 comments:

  1. LOVE! I can definitely see your creative edge from DOL...you are on fire!

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  2. Superb!!! I loved that pocket too, your interpretation is just right all around...literally the 360 degree success. Great outdoor photos too. Love it all.

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  3. Fantastic Shams, love the origami pocket, little patch, pleated inset on the sleeve, its all come together beautifully and looks great on you too!

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  4. oh wow, so much to enjoy! First, I have to comment on the artist's smock - what a nice silhouette, color and texture - and I imagine its verstile for SF weather. And this top- my favorite part is the asymmetric closure with the snap tape! So cute! but there is so much more. You really are communing with fabric!

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  5. I LOVE this! Brilliant!

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  6. I'm so happy you're back into the sewing groove. This top is just fabulous. I love how you incorporated the pleats into the sleeves. It gives the garment cohesion. It's great to see how DOL has influenced your work!

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  7. First I'm jealous that you bought that fabric! It is beautiful, I just couldn't think of a way that I could use it. You've made an awesome top with it and I love all of the special touches.

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  8. This is brilliant! LOVE the snap tape in the front.

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  9. Wow! Love the details and the way they echo one another--and love the overall effect on you. A beautiful garment. Elle

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  10. You've used some great creative ideas here. I love the pleat insert on the sleeve and the snap tape - very clever.

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  11. LOVE that pocket! UBER love it! And the pleated sleeve sleeve insert! And the frayed hole covers....oh my gosh creative techniques just dancing all over.

    Yup, you definitely started loosening up some more fun creative vibes :)

    Did I mention that I LOVE that pocket?

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  12. You should wear that top every chance you get, Shams. You look like a kabillion bucks in it! I loved reading about the pocket, the patches, and the sleeve save. You rock!

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  13. This is amazing. Very creative and very you!

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  14. What a cool top! the fabric is very matrix indeed! I love the way you make everything look easy, so inspiring! You look amazing in it

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  15. The jacket is fab - and fab on you! Love your personalized details, esp the pocket and snap closure with faux cording. Brilliant!
    Anne k

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  16. Oh my! What a wonderful creatiion. I am inspired by all the elements... AND it looks fabulous on you! Thanks very much for sharing the details.

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  17. I needed to see this today. I've been in a creative draught and this has me going 'ooh,ooh,' again. Great top!

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  18. That jacket is superb! And so you. That fabric is absolutely awesome!

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  19. That pocket is sooo cool! And the fabric is fabulous. Another great creation and you look fab in it!

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  20. Shams, I saw this fabric on EOS, and considered it a few times, but didn't bite. Beautiful top you've made - perfect for this fabric. I love all the unique features, I think that the sleeve inset is my favorite part.

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  21. Such an interesting process and artistic final piece. Thanks for sharing both!

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  22. Interesting technique on that sleeve inset, I have to use that soon. great top.

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  23. All the little details are fantastic! This top also looks nice on you and suits your figure. a real winner!

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  24. Love the whole thing but that pocket is cute! You are making me feel so uninspired at the moment as my work looks so boring by comparison. Keep it up Shams!

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  25. This is OUTSTANDING! And you make it look great! The garment and the fabric and the person really compliment each other with this outfit. You get my creative juices flowing just looking at it and reading about it. Way to go!

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  26. Wow! I love the idea of using too little fabric to encourage creative problem solving. I love the pleated sleeve inserts. Where did you get the snap tape? and I love how you used it.

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  27. So inspiring - love the pocket and the snap tape is fantastic - very creative - needed to read this today and be inspired - You were very creative before DOL and now - WoW! it's going to be exciting to see more.

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  28. Top is wonderful!! Actually, I'm at a loss for words now as I really like everything about it. Hard to comment on just a couple of things:)

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  29. Beautiful top - you are a design goddess, Shams! So glad you enjoyed Taos, and it will be fun to see how your sewing journey might change. Happy creating!

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  30. What a great top. I saw the fabric on EOS and wondered what it would look like sewn up. Great job.

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  31. Stunning, the pocket and sleeve pleating not to mention the snap tape and WOW.

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  32. Love the pocket; Love the fabric; Love the snap tape closure; What's not to love? Love it and you did a great job,as always.

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  33. I like the way it looks on you. I love the pocket, the creative solution on your sleeves and the snap tape. You created a real "winner"!

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  34. Thanks for sharing all of this terrific inspiration! I think the sleeve insert is my favorite part. Nice job patching, too.

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  35. I love the fabric choice! So wonderfully cool! (Note: I was reading you blog as you were reading mine. So funny!)

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  36. Obviously your time with Diane and Marcy was well spent! You came back with a whole bunch of new techniques and inspiration. Fantastic job on the top!

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  37. Truly fabulous top! The pocket and the sleeve insert are wonderful, but I can't stop swooning over that striped cord/bias tube on the pocket. I am such a sucker for stripes.

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  38. Great tunic, Shams. I love the details. I had been eyeing that fabric at Emma One Sock and I'm glad to see it made into something unique and beautiful.

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  39. I pinned one of your photos, and will spend the next few minutes before sleep looking through all the details of this shirt. You are so creative Sharon.

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  40. I love this top. I saw the material on EOS and dismissed it but your creation makes it sing!

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  41. Wow, this is a stunning design - no wonder it's a favourite of yours. The fabric is perfect for the design too!

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  42. Shams, what a great shirt/top... fabric is ideal. I'm always inspired by your creativity. Love the top.
    Marcia

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  43. Wow Shams! You've really outdone yourself this time. I always find your garments so creative and appreicate you sharing the details. Can't wait to see what you come up with next
    Caro

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  44. Oops, hit send too soon. Would appreciate it if you would divulge your source for the snaps.
    Many thanks
    Caro

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    Replies
    1. Thanks, Carolyn! I bought the snap tape locally and got the last 2 yards. I would LOVE to find more of it!

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  45. Thanks Shams. I'll have to keep my eyes peeled.
    Caro

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