Monday, November 26, 2012

Vogue 8859 - Two Pair of Marcy Tilton Pants


Dressed for Union Square with DD1

Note that, as of Monday evening 11/26, all Vogue patterns are marked down 75% on their website. According to the email I received, the sale ends Friday, Nov 30th.

Vogue caused some confusion when they released the holiday patterns on October 25th. You may recall that they identified this skirt as a Marcy pattern:

As pretty as that skirt is, it sure didn't read as a Marcy pattern. Sure enough, by the next day, Vogue quietly corrected their error. They had mislabeled the skirt and had neglected to label Vogue 8859 as Marcy's pant. I almost mentioned it on the blog, but I figured people would quickly notice and my original post calls out this pant as an interesting pattern.

What?! You don't haunt the Vogue website like I do?

So on Thanksgiving weekend, I made two pair of Marcy's pants. I might have stopped at one, but I made two pair of Katherine's and, as a mother of two girls, it's best when things are "even". ;)

This pattern calls for either a double knit, such as ponte, or a stretch woven. I seem to have a collected plethora of stretch wovens, so that is what I used. This pattern features tucks at the front knee and the instructions provide three possible ways of handling these tucks. I used a different variation in each of my pants. The pattern also includes back pockets, which I omitted from both pair.

The back of this pant requires three pattern pieces: a yoke, the upper back (ends at the knee), and the lower back. The yoke and lower back are cut on a normal grain, but the upper back is cut off grain. It is cut on the bias, though not on a true bias. This is very interesting and, I imagine, affects how the pant fits in back. Surprisingly, the pattern does not include the finished measurement for the hip/waist on the pattern tissue, but it's not difficult to measure it yourself.

I cut a size 16 in front and a size 14 in back, which is equivalent to the same size I used for the Katherine pants, though the size range of her pant is small-medium-large.

Pair #1

For the first version I chose a rather wild flocked stretch denim I purchased on sale from Marcy's site. Since the print is busy, I chose to use variation #1 for the tucks, which is to merely fold them at the side seam. I like this effect but some might find it a bit sloppy - I realize this pair of pants won't be to everyone's taste. I top-stitched this pair using black Guterman top-stitching thread, which is rather hard to see against the flocking. I finished this pair on Saturday morning and wore them out with DD1. They are wild and fun.

Pair #2

I wanted a more sedate fabric for pair #2, to better showcase the knee detail. For this pair, I used a lightweight stretch woven in a brown/grey color that is sometimes called anthracite. For this pair, I used version two for the tucks, which is basically sewn across and then edge-stitched. However, I think I found an error in the instructions, which tell you to sew the tuck with the fabric right sides together and I believe they meant wrong sides together, or it makes no sense to me. The version three tucks are similar to version two, but edge stitched on both the inside and the outside of the tuck.

Conclusion

I love both pairs of pants! I finished the second pair Sunday evening, but I've already worn the denim pair twice.

How do these pants compare to Katherine's? Aside from the obvious seaming/tuck differences, it seems that the Marcy pant is slightly more fitted through the thigh to the knee, but only slightly, and the Katherine pant seems a bit more pegged at the ankle. I laid the patterns on top of each other and the shape of the fronts and backs are different. Both pair are pull-on and can be made from double knit or stretch woven fabrics. I didn't shorten the Katherine pant (unusual for me) so they must run on the short side. I shortened the Marcy pant by about 3/4", so they are a bit longer.

I like both patterns.

Do you realize that I have five new pair of skinny pants? Two Marcy pants, two Katherine pants, and the Style Arc Cassie pant. I'm in skinny pant heaven! But my next project will not be pants. In fact, I made another garment over Thanksgiving weekend, but haven't photographed it yet and it's not pants, either.

Flocked Denim Pair
Knee tucks
Flocked Denim Pair

Anthracite Pair

35 comments:

  1. Love the flocked version!!! Love! Your pants look less skinny from the knee down than the pattern picture. Was that an intentional choice or was the pattern looser than they look in the picture?

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    1. Thanks, Elizabeth! I did not alter the pattern leg, so the pattern must be looser fitting in the calf, at least on me.

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  2. Wow, you accomplished a lot over the four day weekend! I like both pair of pants, but I LOVE the flocked denim...I'm not a blue person, but I would wear these!

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  3. If you cut a 16 in the F and a 14 in the B, did you have difficulty fitting them together at the seams? I'm between a 12 and 14 and thinking of trying your technique, but I'm worried that the pieces won't fit together.

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    1. What I generally do for the back is to cut a 14 in width and a 16 in length. It's worked well so far.

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  4. Particularly like the blue and black pair. Might have to make some skinny pants for myself soon.

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  5. Nice! I am jealous, you are all set with a range of stylish and comfy winter pants.

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  6. I had the same response to the Vogue skirt that you did; I thought I was losing it when the patterns appeared in my mailbox (yes, I did buy the skirt). I love your skinnies and hope I have the chance to make my own sometime soon.

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  7. You are making me discover a new world of pants. I think both are amazing, I´m not going to ask you how many pants are in your closet...
    By the way, when I saw this skirt I thought about the flamenco dress I´d like to sew one of these years. So pretty!

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  8. I WANT those blue and black pants! Don't be surprised if you wake up one day and they are gone ;) Fabulous, fabulous!!

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  9. I'm curious - is there enough differences between the Style Arc pants and the V8859 for someone on a pattern budget to justify buying both patterns? I love the Style Arc pants, but V8859 is a fraction of the price. I want - no, need - a pair of pants with a cool knee detail. And let's be honest, I'm trying to convince myself that the Style Arc pants are unique enough to pay the price for them!

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    1. Just thought I should clarify... I meant that I am on a pattern budget. 'Someone' was a little non-specific, and sounded a little judgmental when I re-read it.

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    2. I understand, Birdmommy. Style Arc patterns are more costly plus shipping, but I really do like the Cassie pant and, with the separate knee yoke, it is different than the Tilton pants. But I certainly understand having to work within a budget!

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  10. Shams: You are really rocking the narrow legged pant. I love how these look on you, not at all like leggings as shown on the models. You look sensash in these and I'm loving your fabric and styling choices, too.
    Helen

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  11. Laughed when I saw the flocked denim. I'd been debating it and went back to buy and it was gone - to a good home - and a fabulous project. They look great on you.

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  12. Great collection of skinny pants, shams. Loving that flocked fabric!

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  13. love 'em both! I must make a pair. Thanks for the post :)

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  14. Shams,
    They both look great! Now I have to ask as I have spent months playing and trying to get my pants to fit properly in the crotch. Where and with whom did you get the fit you wanted or was it something you just worked on yourself?
    Thanks for sharing so much information.
    Sue

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    1. Don't hate me, Sue, but I don't usually fiddle with the crotch much, or at all. In this case, I used it right out of the envelope. Having said that, I do think that I could tweak the fit of the back crotch, but at present the geometry confounds me.

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    2. "Don't hate me, Sue, but I don't usually fiddle with the crotch much, or at all."

      oh you Shams, just sewing up everything straight out of the envelope with perfect fit - pfft! i think even the most casual reader would very willingly give you a total pass on pants, given the amount you end up tweaking tops! :) Tho it's to our benefit, as you have generously shared your hard earned knowledge with us.

      good grief, you've made more pants these last weeks than i have in my closet!!! ;) heehee, they all look just great, a very versatile wardrobe and all easy to wear as well. That flocked denim is wonderful with your coloring, the blue brings out your red hair and that scale of pattern really suits you. All that contrast, color, and texture looks just right on your slender gams. Am heading to JoAnn's first thing tomorrow as Vogue's are on sale for $3.99 and i am hoping this 8859 will be in stock!

      fingers crossed, steph

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  15. I just sewed these pants last night! Couldn't stop 'til they were done enough to try on! I am short (5 feet, 1/2 inch), so I shortened the upper leg of front and back by 1 inch so the knee detail would fall in the right place. I cut a straight size 12 with the exception of the crotch seam, which I sized up to a 14. I am so pleased with the fit! My fabric is a wonderful organic cotton black denim knit--pretty beefy, but with good stretch. So to answer SEWN's question: Mine fit much like they look on the pattern envelope. A bit slimmer looking through the lower leg than Sham's. Might be the fabric; might be my legs! But I love the fit! Can't decide if I want to add the pockets or not. Will finish tonight and maybe take a pic.

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    1. That's very interesting, Bunny. It's especially interesting that the leg has a close fit on you. I wonder if my legs are proportionally thinner than my hips...

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  16. You really were cookin' this Thanksgiving week-end! Looking at just the legs, I find it difficult to believe that they are 14/16. On you they look like size 6 or 8. How do you manage that? Nice job on all of them.

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  17. Very nice! These skinny pants are made for you, well they were but I meant design wise. I love how the gray pair shows off the knee pleats. Since I never tuck in shirts I've been looking for details that will show without adding bulk to my hips. These certainly fit the bill.

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  18. Looking back at your Katharine pants, I think that I like those better. Not that these aren't lovely, but the seaming on the KT pants is very striking. I think I may go over and buy the pattern while it's still on sale.

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  19. You look great in skinny pants. Darn! I should have bought more of that flocked jean material 'cause those pants are great. I only bought enough of that fabric for a skirt.

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  20. You are on a roll! These are two more great pairs of pants!

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  21. Love those tucked knees. It is such a subtle detail but gives a lot of style. You are tempting me once again.

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  22. You always do such a great job with pants. I especially Love those flocked denim pants! They just look so fun!

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  23. LOVE that flocked denim on you! And the lines of these pants look perfect for you - you're actually making me consider (sort of) skinny pants for me.....maybe.......

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  24. Super cute, Shams! I love these interesting patterns on you. I picked up a Marcy Tilton pattern this weekend after reading so much about them on your blog. Here's to hoping I can find time to make it...

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  25. love these pants on you!! I am doing pj sewing, which was preceded by a men's fleece vest, which ws preceded by a corduroy vest...all outerwear or camping stuff. I yearn for urban style right now :-)

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  26. Those are both snazzy pants, each with it's own personality.

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  27. Awesome pants! They make your legs look super skinny. I gotta get that pattern...

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  28. Ok, you enabler. I made a pair and posted them. http://badmomgoodmom.blogspot.com/2012/12/vogue-8859-marcy-tilton-pants.html

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