Sunday, January 27, 2013

Lekala Pants (5458) and Other Stuff


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Lekala Pants (5458)

On New Years Day I visited Stone Mountain & Daughter fabrics and I ran into my friend Beth, of Sunny Gal Studio. Beth had recently been asked to try some Lekala patterns and had good success with the one or two she had tried.

If you aren't familiar with Lekala, they are a Russian pattern company. You look through their catalog, choose your pattern(s) and add them to your cart. When you check out, you enter your measurements, in centimeters. You also indicate the size of your printer paper and whether you want seam allowances included. Most patterns cost around $2 and you can save 10% if you register. Once your order your pattern(s), you receive an automated email. Then, a day or two later, you receive a PDF containing your pattern. The pattern is generated by Lekala's software, based on your measurements, so these patterns are considered "made to measure." (This is an important point that I will revisit.)

When you print your pattern, you make sure to select either "no scaling" or "100% scaling" depending on your platform and software. The pages print with a border of about 1 centimeter. Two of the edges have a dotted line and the other two edges have no lines. Cut off the border along the dotted lines, overlap with the corresponding edges with no dotted lines, and tape or glue. Cut out each pattern piece and off you go.

For my first pattern, I choose Lekala 5458, a pair of capri pants. I chose pants because of my recent weight loss. Some of my TNTs are now too big. Some of my pants are falling off. It's problematic, especially when I work out at the gym. This pattern is for a cute pair of pants with interesting seaming. I lengthened them to full length by adding 12", though I should have added another inch as I had only enough for a scant 3/8" hem.

Now, before I go further, I should say that when using a pattern generated by software (rather than created by a human pattern drafter), the pattern is only as good as the software. When the programmers create the software, they make certain assumptions. These assumptions are "programmed" into the code. It is very clear that the Lekala programmers never anticipated someone with my dimensions. Here is the front and back pants pattern.

Even though my waist is finally smaller than my hips, it's only by one inch. The software doesn't handle this well. For one thing, the software is determined to put a back dart in the pants. I do not have much of a booty, so I really don't need much, if any, back dart. But let's take a closer look at the back pattern piece.

Note the weird shape of the dart and how it dips down at the top of the dart. Then there is that weird "wing shaped" extension to the left of the dart. Look at the really strange line that results for the side seam. This does not provide a good fit, though it might technically meet the measurements that I entered. There is also a shaped waistband that didn't fit me at all. Nevertheless, I cut the pattern out as shown. I used inexpensive black ponte that I always use to test out pants patterns. (I am almost out of it!) I sewed it up. (And I should add that because I used ponte, I eliminated the zipper.)

The resulting shape was very weird at the top of the side seam, as you can see in the following pic.

On the body, it looked truly strange. It dipped down at center front and center back and shot up at the side seam. I had to cut off a huge chunk from each side seam.

Once I removed these chunks, the pants fit ok. The back darts still aren't quite right, and rather than use the contoured waistband, I substituted a rectangular yoke.

The final pants fit pretty well! (Sorry that it is hard to see in the pics, but they really do fit pretty well.)

Conclusion:

If you have a more conventional shape, I think these patterns will work well. If you do not, you could end up with a very strangely shaped pattern. I think in future it would work better if I entered a more conventional waist measurement and did my own waist alteration. Though it would be nice if they improved their software to detect these unusual shapes and compensated accordingly. If I make these pants again, I will remove the weird fit at the waistline as well as the back darts.

DD1's Jacket & Neck Warmer

I was a bit derailed yesterday. I was toodling along on DD1's wool jacket. I was very happy with how it was going and I was enjoying the process. Before she returned to university in January, I cut out a muslin, pinned it together, and fitted it on her. (I didn't have time to sew it together.) I did some altering while she was here. I was looking forward to mailing her the jacket in the next week or two.

DD2 visited yesterday. She and DD1 are very similar in size, so I had her try it on. It was too big. Really too big. She said, "Mom, she won't wear it." And I knew she was right. I have no idea if it can be salvaged, and I don't want to attempt it until she can try it on in person. During my insomnia at 3am, I bagged it up and put it away. I won't see DD1 until spring break.

But before I put it away completely, I cut a piece from the leftover yardage and made a neck warmer. This is not my original design. I had purchased a beautiful neck warmer from a seller on Etsy and I made a similar piece. Because of that, I can't share her pattern, but I can highly recommend the neck warmers in her Etsy store, FashionCogs. She is a very clever designer and recycles her materials so no two are exactly alike. I plan to send DD1 a neck warmer, since I can't send her a mom-made jacket.

If you look at my neck warmer, you will see a very cool pin. This is a medal given to me by Luz Clara when she visited last year. She purchased it in a Paris flea market and it says "Al Merito." And, no, DD1 won't get my medal - I may have to make my own neck warmer in these colors since it coordinates so beautifully. :)

But before I retire the jacket completely, I want to share a few pictures.

Wool interlining

What will I work on next? Who the heck knows!!!

29 comments:

  1. Hmm... very interesting pants pattern experience. I had that body scanner thing, along with their custom patterns, done years ago and had some very strange results too.
    I'll have to give Lekala a try. I'm lucky I have a 42" wide printer and don't have to piece pdfs.
    You, your pants and you neckwarmer all look great!!

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  2. The pants are interesting and look great on you. I would keep that scarf! Too bad about the jacket being too big, what a bummer especially when you did such an incredible match job.

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  3. No matter the fit of the pants, you look great! I am trying to whittle down my waist too, but you are having way more success than I am:)

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  4. I'm a bit stunned to see how you transformed that bizarre pattern piece into pants that look so flattering! Now I'm tempted to try this pattern as well - do you think that the unusual seaming lends itself well to a good-fitting crotch/thigh area?

    Awwww, I'm disappointed that the jacket isn't going to work for DD - it looks so stylish and warm! But I love the neckwarmer anyway. :)

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    1. JillyBe, I think the pattern line would work well for you. It works well for many people. I think they use a very European style crotch and that fits me well.

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  5. I agree, I'm in awweeee of your skills. The jacket looks pretty, I'm sorry is not going well.

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  6. Shame the jacket doesn't fit - it is really stylish. I couldn't see a reference to the pattern. Love your neck warmer.

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  7. They are very smart looking trousers, and the neckwarmer is awesome - I love the fastenings.
    It is interesting that made-to-measure patterns still have these assumptions built in. I have tried drafting according to instructions in books, but these drafted patterns don't fit any better than "standard" patterns - adjustments are always needed :).
    It is a shame about the jacket sizing. The construction details are lovely.

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  8. I am so glad you reviewed a Lekala. I've been interested in those, but didn't understand how to use the 'string code' for the more custom proportioned patterns. I also use software and while I've got it down mostly, there's a thing or two that software just can't fix without messing up too much of what's working so I fix that by hand or in the CAD editor.I'm amazed how well your pants came out all the same.
    The jacket looks great too. Nice colors although it didn't work out. The neck warmer looks a lot more interesting than a scarf. Very cool. : )

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    1. I also use pattern software but have been getting acquainted with Lekala. I'm also tall. I have been pleased with minimal pants adjustment and nice proportion in garments. The European cut pants is a good fit right out of the box and on a top, the sleeve cap actually fit without lengthening. I'm a convert!

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  9. Thank you for showing the strange and interesting pattern pieces the software generated for you--and for describing their process. I usually cannot face printing out PDF patterns, but I might have to check Lekala out. Your resulting pants look so sleek and very consistent with your overall style. Glad you have some that won't fall off!

    That zippered patch pocket from the jacket is exquisite. I am really bummed to hear that the piece is turning out too big for your daughter. Maybe save it against possible future weight gain for her? That's not a very optimistic strategy, I suppose!

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  10. The jacket is beautiful. College has a way of expanding more than just your mind. I think you should tuck it away for next year. ;-)

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  11. You are looking fabulous! My weight loss efforts have been derailed, your success might be just what I need to get going again.

    Love the neckwarmer, now I'm going to go and look at that site.

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  12. That pants pattern is so unique!?! If anyone could make it work, it's definitely you. Really hate to hear about the jacket. It's such a great color(s). Hopefully, you will be able to "make it work" when you see her in person. I hope so!

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  13. Yay and Argh...those pants LOOK fabulous (as do you, Slim) but what work you had to do to get them like that! I think I will bypass that pattern line for the moment...and the Jacket...it's way too pretty to forget for long. I'll bet you can fix it when you have DD1 in front of you. LOVE the neck warmer...such beautiful colors on you!

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  14. While I agree that the pants pattern has interesting seaming, I'd like an update on whether or not StyleArc comes out ahead as a pattern company. Right now I'm in love with StyleArc...but I have to say, you do look good in those!

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    1. Carole, Style Arc continues to be my favorite. However, since my size is in flux, and Style Arc is pricey for a single size, I am waiting for my weight to stabilize before ordering more.

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  15. wow I think those pants looks great. and so do you! glad you tried the Lekala.

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  16. Wow Shams! Those pants did have a weird shape before you fixed them. I can't imagine them fitting any human body. An ET maybe? But you succeeded and they look great on you!
    I'm sorry about your DD's jacket. I have a complete set of measurements for mine and every time I make her something, I'm convinced it won't fit her but usually it does although I have a problem with her sleeves being too tight.
    The neckwarmer is adorable!

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  17. I love that neckwarmer! Great plaid fabric. What a strange pants pattern -- good to see you found a fix for it!

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  18. Nice save with the pants, Shams! Lekala's computer system can only spit out results from the parameters you input. Obviously tweaking the results for your unique shape is not part of the $2 deal! However I'm happy to see they have improved the website interface. Awhile back while they were free I downloaded a bunch of patterns in a standard size that *almost* fits me. At least the tweaks are not far off the usual ones for me that I have to do with every commercial pattern! So far though I've only made a simple skirt. Perhaps I'll try a custom sized one sometime soon just to see how it works.

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  19. That jacket and neckwarmer are incredible! I tend to be a lurker but I just had to tell you how fabulous I think they are. Shame the jacket's too big. The plaid is gorgeous!

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  20. The pants are awesome (thanks for the step by step breakdown of alterations) but the neckwarmer is a thing of beauty (joy forever?). Very cool.

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  21. Kudos on making those pants fit! They're very cool, with all of their styling details.
    Please try to make the jacket fit your DD. Or maybe find someone else who can wear it? It's too good to toss.
    love the funky neck warmer!

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  22. That is the best use of your merit badge that you could ever have thought of! Everyone who sees you better be giving you much greater respect now that they know of your merit. It looks just fabulous!!!!

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  23. Interesting to read about Lekala pattern software. I hadn't considered the 'bugs' that not being a standard shape (whatever that is) would cause to a computer. You made a great job of saving the pants and they look great on you.
    I love the neck warmer! Perfect for this time of year. Very sad about dd's jacket - though I'm sure you will sort it out when you have her there to fit.

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  24. You are looking healthy and happy. Does the weight loss put more spring in your step? The neck warmer certainly suits you, both design and color. Good save on the pants! Elle

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  25. Thanks for the post on Lekala. I had been contemplating trying their patterns. Now I'm not sure it's worth it. However, your pants look great and you look terrific! You are shrinking before our computer screens!

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  26. I'm sorry that the jacket is too big. I know you put a lot of work into and hopefully you can find a way to make it work. Love the neckwarmer!

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