Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Black Fitted Coat - Sandra Betzina Vogue 1318


I really have a thing for coats and jackets, if you haven't noticed. I have plans for sewing more coats and jackets, so don't be surprised. I wish I had a decent sized coat closet!

This pattern is a Sandra Betzina vest. I had this very interesting textured fabric, a black brocade, that I wanted to use. Here are the interesting features of the pattern and my modifications:

  • It's a long vest. I couldn't see getting much wear out of a long vest, especially not one made from this brocade, so I added sleeves. It's very easy to add sleeves - just choose another pattern that has the sleeve you want. Overlay the armscye from that pattern onto your desired pattern. Then use the sleeve from that same pattern. I used the sleeve from the Kwik Sew moto jacket that I recently made. This is a one-piece, darted sleeve (at the elbow).
  • Since I added sleeves, I also added a sleeve lining.
  • Before adding the sleeve, I narrowed the shoulders by about 5/8".
  • I made view B, but I omitted the in-seam contrast piping.
  • The vest pattern comes with patterns for two detachable collars. One is a fairly straightforward collar. The other is more 3-dimensional with sewn tucks. I loved this collar and made this version. To be honest, I might have preferred to just sew the collar to the coat in the normal manner, as I doubt I'll plan to remove it, but I did make it to be detachable.
  • Upper collar with sewn tucks

    Detachable collar
  • This is a princess seam design, which is great for an FBA. The pattern is fairly fitted. I used a size C and added a (conventional) 1" princess seam FBA because I needed the width, as well as the length.
  • For a size C, the pattern tissue says that the finished size at the waist is 48". I do not think this is correct. I think it's less than that.
  • The model in the photo on the pattern envelope must be 6-feet tall. Notice that the vest hits her at her mid thigh. Mine is knee-length and I am 5'5".
  • The vest is loosely fitted through the hips.
  • There are in-seam pockets in the side front. These are quite deep.
  • Deep pockets
  • The vest closes with buttons. The pattern calls for 4 buttons, but I found that 5 worked better. The buttonholes are bound buttonholes. I hadn't made bound buttonholes in almost 30 years! (I think it's been 28 years...)
  • Buttons and Bound Buttonholes

Supplies and Notions:

  • The primary fabric is a highly textured black brocade purchased at Fabrix. The texture has a leaf design.
  • The lining is a black synthetic fabric with large white polka dots, also from Fabrix. It is very soft.
  • Polka dots!
  • The closure consists of 5 gorgeous, 1" Italian buttons from Britex. (I am getting very spoiled by the button selection at Britex.)
  • There are also 5 small clear buttons use to attach the collar to the coat. These are from Fabrix.
  • The pockets are lined with remnants of solid black Bemberg by Ambiance.
  • Scraps of black silk organza were used to make the 5 bound buttonholes.
  • The neckline was reinforced with cotton twill tape.

I really like this black coat. I can see wearing it to an event over a simple top and skinny pants. I have wanted a black coat for a long time, so I think this will be a useful addition to my wardrobe.

Buttoned up

50 comments:

  1. This looks great on you and you did a pro job on those bound buttonholes. Good thing you live in SF since you like coats so much!

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  2. OMG, Shams...this is gorgeous! I have looked at this pattern since it came out, but was put off by the pictures on the envelope AND the vestiness of it. Your changes make it worth trying! (I think some Vogue photographer must be anti-Sandra Betzina, because most of the pictures of her patterns are horrid)...Fabulous details...and bound buttonholes to be proud of!

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    1. Margy, I too have been put off by the pictures. Shams changed that.

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    2. Margy, Sandra actually complained about the photo shoots for her patterns several times during her day with us at the recent PatternReview Weekend ... (where I got to meet the lovely Shams in person!).

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  3. Another fabulously stylish coat, in an easy to miss pattern that you have again turned in to a gem! I can see this being a wonderfully versatile and useful coat, glam or casual. It looks great on you... Vogue should definitely consider making you their cover girl :)

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  4. WOW .. that is just a knockout, Shams! What a beautifully perfect job
    you did .. on everything. That would be a featured designer coat in a high-priced boutique or couture dept in Neiman Marcus, etc. for thousands. Just wonderful, and I'm sure you'll get such great use from it for years and years, and many compliments. Kudos .. be so proud!.

    Joy (from SG)

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  5. Great addition to your wardrobe. You can wear it to anything from a black tie event to lunch out with friends. Great piece.

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  6. Beautiful coat, Shams, love, love, love it!

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  7. Another winner! Great fabric!

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  8. Your coat is beautiful, from the buttons and buttonholes to the fabric to the length. I would never have looked at that pattern -- your version is fabulous, though!

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  9. That is GORGEOUS. The fabric is superb, and as always you have tailored it beautifully to fit you. Love the sleeve addition!

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  10. Your new coat looks wonderful! You need coats during chilly weeks like this :)

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  11. Now THAT is a coat. Stunning. What a great job you have done with it.

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  12. If I lived in a climate that needed a coat I think I would make that one. It's beautiful!

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  13. What An Amazing coat! Love It How.you See The Potential In The Vest Pattern. I Love That It Got Detachable Collar Too!

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  14. Lovely Coat..Thought I would share with you and your followers, I often use lace for my lining...and looks great and often cheaper than acetate lining....Jan

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  15. Very, very nice! I love jackets and coats too, so you can keep making them and I can keep admiring them :)

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  16. Nice coat, I esp like the fabric. Looking forward to your many other coats and jackets

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  17. Man you are looking well. Love your new coat with a passion - especially the fabric. Great move to add sleeve.

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  18. Love the coat! So cool what you did with the pattern...Looking forward to viewing all your creations.

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  19. What a beautiful coat - and such a good idea to add sleeves to the vest pattern. Those buttons are to die for.

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  20. Once again your creative vision and mad sewing skills produce a fabulous garment. I, too, love making jackets and coats - just wish I didn't live in hot, humid Houston. I'm concentrating on vests as a compromise this year but prefer you interp on making this vest pattern into a coat!

    Karen

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  21. What a super looking coat! It's something can go almost anywhere. Nice sewing!

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  22. You look like a superhero! Or a supervillain. Or, at the very least, a noir heroine.

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  23. Vogue should be using your photo since that vest pattern, IMNHO, is quirky not in a good way. Your coat on the other hand is gorgeous and inspiring.

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  24. I love the collar--and detachable, what genius!

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  25. Very flattering and much improved with sleeves. I love it!

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  26. Beautiful coat Shams. The fabric is utterly gorgeous and I'm envious that you can find such fabulous buttons locally!

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  27. Love, love, love the coat! Wonder if I could ever make something like that?!? You look amazing in it. Thank you so much for sharing.

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  28. How do you do it? You post one lovely piece after the other, and in such a short period of time. I'd love to be a little mouse in your sewing room, just to watch you work : ). I love this coat, btw!

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  29. shams, this is one of the NICEST things I have seen from your sewing room. It looks perfect for SF foggy days.

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  30. Good eye! Way to see new possibilities! I do so admire people who can do that!

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  31. That's a great coat! I love everything about it, especially the surprise lining!

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  32. Beautiful. I echo several others. Love everything about it. Perfect.

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  33. FABULOUS! You are such an inspiration. Thanks for sharing your talents and helping us to "see" other possibilities. I actually made the long vest and do like it, but the coat is pretty darn wonderful....I will have to do that as well.

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  34. You look fabulous in your new coat. Great job!

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  35. that coat is so cool! I like the shape of the pleated collar, distinctive and different. great fabric choice.

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  36. I must chime in, your elegant coat will take you anywhere! Your sure eye for fabric marrying pattern is not equalled! I am awed!

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  37. A perfect use of an interesting, beautiful fabric. I love how this looks on you.

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  38. Beautiful coat, beautiful fabric! Looks great! Are you going to try the new Vogue Marcy Tilton coat? Love it, want to try this fall.

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  39. Great coat and fabric! Yes, I did notice you do a lot of coats. Aren't the most satisfying thing to sew?

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  40. I look at that dowdy envelope pattern and shudder. How you make an incredible drool worthy coat from such an unpromising photo inspiration is quite incredible. The fabrics are awesome, the fit is fabulous and the collar and buttons are perfect. I love it.

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  41. Awesome, love the fabric! I think a lot more people might buy this pattern now after seeing yours. It's the addition of sleeves that does it, Ms. Betzina really should have offered full sleeves as an option, a sleeveless vest is not a basic wardrobe need but a long jacket...

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  42. you are consistently hitting home runs lately!! Is there something in your water? Will you bottle it and mail me some? thanks.

    There is so much to love about this coat, but I think I like your choice of buttons best. And your decision to use 5 instead of 4. I almost always prefer an odd number of buttons, it just seems to look better to me.

    ps I agree with kbenco, LOL

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  43. I never thought about adding sleeves. You are a genius. Another pattern for my ever-growing list.

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  44. I really like what you did with this pattern. Your fabric choice is absolutely fantastic...for both the shell and the lining! Makes this South Florida resident want to consider making a coat of my own and then making a trip up north this winter to show it off.

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  45. I've been looking for some duster inspiration and yours came up in an array of photos from a google search. I love this jacket. The fabric. What you did with the pattern.

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