Sunday, September 8, 2013

Road Testing the Coverstitch Machine - Butterick 5954


This pattern came out in the recent batch of Butterick patterns, on August 23rd. I liked this top very much, but I knew I'd have to customize it a bit for my aesthetic. I particularly liked views C and D, which feature an overlapped front that is attached only at the shoulder.

Another reason this was a great pattern to use is, with that long hem, it gave me a great chance to use my new coverstitch machine!

I haven't been sewing a lot of knits of late, but I have quite a healthy stash of knit fabrics, so it was easy to grab this red and black stripe knit. I can't remember where I purchased this fabric, as it was more than a year ago, but it was (I think) at the brick and mortar Harts Fabrics in Santa Cruz. Maybe. It also might have been Stone Mountain and Daughter.

This fabric features textural stripes in addition to the color stripes. Some stripes are created with a rib knit. And then, sprinkled over the entire fabric are small (seemingly) randomly placed tucks. This texture makes it a bit difficult to hem evenly, as the ribbed stripes cause the plain knit stripes to "blouse" out. I like textured fabrics and this has a great texture, but also present a bit of a challenge.

The pattern features a huge swing hem, which begins just below the bust. The swing emanates from the side seams and the back seam - there is no swing at center front, which is good, because it would otherwise have a maternity effect. You can see what I mean by looking at the pattern pieces:

Front

Back

I removed all of the swing. My bust is bigger than my hips, so a straight column is enough swing for me.

The top is designed to be close-fitted at the bust. A medium (the size I sewed up) is designed for a 34"-36" bust. The finished top measures 35-1/2" at the bust, so this is designed to have (close to) zero ease. My bust is 40" and my upper bust is 36" - I always choose a pattern size based on my upper bust measurement and then I alter from there. I like my knit tops to gently hug the bust, so I like negative ease. This knit is quite stretchy, so the only FBA I did was to add 1" to the vertical at the bust line. (I really could have skipped it, since the hemline is uneven, but I do like putting a little extra fabric at the bust to go up and over the fullness.

(For more information on this subject, see my posts on FBAs in Knits - Advice for the Uber Busty and Vertical Only FBA.)

Here are the pattern pieces after my alterations. (Yes, I should have used a dry iron on these to flatten them out).

Front, with 1" vertical-only FBA

Back

Other alterations:

Besides removing the swing hem and doing a vertical-only FBA, I made a few other modifications:

  • When sewing up the top, I removed 1" from the waist at the side seams, tapering to the bust and hips, for a total reduction of 4" at the waist. I like a bit of shaping in my columns. ;)
  • Since I removed the shaping from CB, I cut the back piece on the fold.
  • This is a droopy knit fabric. (I love Margy's explanation of droopy vs drapey.) I did not want a limp, lifeless collar, which can be a Sad Thing, so I used a technique that Marcy Tilton introduced in a pattern she released several years back, Vogue 8582. The pattern piece for the cowl is rather generous and looks like this:
    To construct, you first sew the side seams together to form a tube.

    You then fold the collar, wrong sides together, so that the CF mark on the top layer meets the CF mark on the bottom layer, and the seam allowance (S/A) on the top layer meets the S/A on the bottom layer. (Sorry if this is as clear as mud, but if you've ever made a cowl neck, or a turtleneck, it's quite straightforward.)

    What I did differently was to introduce a twist. So, after folding the collar so that the upper CF mark met the lower CF mark, I then moved the top mark over by 3". You then continue to pin the edges together so that there is a 3" offset between the layers. This introduces a twist in the collar. It gives the collar a bit more body and causes it to lay nicely on the neck, especially in a limp fabric. Here is what the collar looked like after it was pinned:
  • I also wanted to cut the collar so that the stripes were vertical. The conventional way to cut it (and the way the pattern layout suggests) would have put the stripes on the horizontal. This would be nice, too, but wasn't what I wanted.
  • I did not narrow the shoulder, which suggests that they might be on the narrow side. I would have narrowed them by 1/2" or so, but I forgot that to do this, I should also narrow the shoulder on the side of the front that has the drape. In the end, I decided it was fine, but it's something to think about. (I usually narrow the shoulders in the construction phase, but this would have been easiest to do at the pattern stage.)
  • Finally, if I had followed the suggested layout for cutting, it would have placed the stripe horizontally on the sleeves. I definitely didn't want to continue the horizontal line on the sleeves, which would have the effect of making me look wider, so I cut them with the stripe going vertically up and down the sleeve. If I had cut them the suggested way, I could have made full length sleeves, but I only had enough fabric for 3/4 length sleeves (from view A) in the vertical direction. I wanted 3/4 length sleeves anyway, so I didn't mind.

The Hem:

The entire hem is sewn in one fell swoop (from shoulder to shoulder) and it's quite long. As I mentioned, this fabric is rather challenging to hem evenly, with it's different knitted textures, but the coverstitch machine handled it like a champ! I didn't even have to change the black thread to another color. ;)

Thanks, again, Susanne!!

Closeup of collar and coverstitched hems.

Conclusion:

I like this top! We've had some wonderfully warm San Francisco weather the last few days (usually September is one of the very nicest months in SF) but today cooled off a tad, so I decided to wear my new top. I met up with my eldest daughter and we went to church. I can tell you that this top holds up well to active dancing, clapping, and drumming. It did not open up to display the goods. Later, when I was walking outside, a gust of wind caught the flap and just a tiny triangle of belly showed, but it wasn't bad. If you are concerned, you can tack it, or pin it, but I don't think I will bother.

42 comments:

  1. Well, great minds must think alike. I have that exact same fabric except in cream and black. Bought it in Houston. Great top!

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  2. Stunning top! I think I'll have to make it with the swing AND without, as it looks so nice on you as a column!

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  3. I really like how you have changed it. Looks great.

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  4. That's a great silhouette/look for you, Shams.
    I've always been tempted by the crossover front tops - they look so clean and elegant .. had this one for eons: http://tinyurl.com/nfrww7g to try ... but wondered if I could get a slim silhoutte with the little tummy pooch that hangs around ..;) Your top is
    a definite incentive. You did a great job "Shams-izing" it. And very interesting fabric.

    ~Joy~

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  5. Great top, awesome fabric. I just got this pattern. I like your changes to the cowl neck. Very nice!

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  6. This turned out great. Like your collar idea.

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  7. Wow, this top is great! I so wish I had learned to sew...please stop by and register to win the necklace I am giving away...it is a stunner!

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  8. Lovely piece, and thanks for sharing with Visible Monday!

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  9. Another pattern I should have noticed but I didn´t! The top is great and the fabric is so original!

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  10. That is a great top and your changes really make it very pretty and flattering. Thanks for all the details.

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  11. So great on you, and I love the collar - thanks for sharing that technique! Leave it to you to master the coverstitch in one outing while I still have a seam wonkiness, a year later.

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  12. Very slimming style with the extra fabric removed. Nothing beats a coverstitch machine with a hemline this long...J

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  13. Shams, this is a totally cool top! I really like it without the swing, I'm thinking I need one. Terrific method on the cowl neck. That problem has kept me from sewing cowls many a time, now I'll have to give it a go. And, I'm with you on the stripe on sleeves - I like vertical as well. Great post, appreciate all the tips.

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  14. You once again put it over the "top"... great job and interesting fabric.

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  15. Great top! I loved that pattern as soon as I saw it in the new releases. Of course JA's didn't have it when I tried to get it!

    I like how you removed the fullness. A way to reuse a distinctive pattern because I plan on making at least two. ;)

    Aren't coverstitch machines fabulous! I love mine.

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  16. I appreciate and am inspired by how you're fearlessly adjust patterns to your preferences and what works for you!

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  17. You're adjustments made perfect sense and it shows in the fit of your version. It's a very balanced top!

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  18. Looks great this way.Thanks for all the details. This pattern is on my fall list too! Great fabric,BTW.

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  19. That's a striking top on you! The fabric is wonderful and your adjustments are brilliant!

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  20. That shirt looks really good. I have that same fabric, except in olive and black. And it's driven me nuts every time I've tried to use it. So once again you have shown your true power over fabric!!!

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  21. Love that top without the swing! Elle

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  22. This is a cool top! It's so great on you.

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  23. Wow- I love this minus the swing hem! Very smart :)

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  24. Yea for the CS machine. Great top; wonderful texture! and the color is pretty!

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  25. I would have been afraid to have all those stripes going horizontal across my bod, but it looks great on you. I need you to come suggest some patterns for a few pieces of fabric I love but just don't know what would be best for them!!!!!!!

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  26. Also bought this new Butterick pattern because I like the overlapped front but, like you, was concerned about the full swing cut. Your adaptation is great! Now I can make this up using your alteration but doubt if I'll use a horizontal stripe. It looks fantastic on you!

    Karen

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  27. I really love this top. Would never have entertained the horizontal stripes, but you have changed my mind. Thank you. Still, it may take time for me to adapt, but baby steps.

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  28. That is very very cute!!!...the changes to the pattern, the fabric, the stripes...all perfect!!!

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  29. Too cute! I have put myself on a pattern "diet" and passed this one for the time being. It was REALLY hard to not click over to Butterick when I saw your review and blog post! It looks great on you and your alterations make it very special.

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  30. it's very cute - I like the original too, but yours is very nice...

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  31. I think I made a dress out of that fabric in white - bought it at Stone Mountain!

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  32. Cool fabric, cool pattern, and cool result. Lucky you with your extreme talent and extreme new machine. You look pretty in it as well ... doesn't get better than that.

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  33. Hey Shams, I really like the sleeves. I mean, I like the whole top, but laying out the sleeves with the stripe running down is very cool.

    Okay, I guess I've been under a rock. I've sewed for ever, but can you tell me what a coverstitch machine is.

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  34. A great top....you are an inspiration for sure! So happy that you like your coverstitch machine...you of all people should have one!

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  35. Great fabric! Congrats on the new machine. So exciting!

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  36. I'm glad you made this one - I've been wondering about it. Thanks for addressing my fly-open question before I even asked it. :)

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  37. Love how you used the fabric and how wonderful you look in your version. Great adjustments and it's always enlightening hearing your thought process along the way.

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  38. Interesting t-shirt design - a cut above the average pull on garment. I love your fabric too.

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  39. Saw your Review on PR. Do you think this would work for a stable sweater knit?
    Looking for something different than the flutter-fronts for winter.

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  40. I have this pattern and love your version even more then the photo on the pattern itself! Great job!

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  41. THAT is a really gorgeous top and it fits you wonderfully; i've been looking at sewists blogs, especially t-shirts and knit shirts, and yours is the best i've seen .... i love your sewing directions and tuts, i love that you spare nothing ... knowing something, some technique, some how-to, and not sharing it because you're *afraid* someone will *better* you is selfish, however, you hold nothing back ... i really have learned a lot from your sewing blog and look forward to your posts ...

    again, i love your shirt ... the collar is perfect; love that the stripes are vertical {as they should be!} ... there is nothing i don't love about your shirt or your blog ... great work ....

    darlene

    ps ... i went to aptos jr high on ocean ave, then lowell high school {the old lowell on masonic, ended up being a san francisco hippie in the late 60s when haight street was the rockin' capitol of the world ... love the city!

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    1. Thanks, Darlene, fellow San Franciscan! I appreciate your comments!

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