Sunday, May 22, 2016

Teal Minoru for Paris


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Teal Minoru

I've finished a cornerstone piece of my Paris wardrobe!

As you can see, I've selected a teal, cobalt, and black color palette. I bought this gorgeous brocade from Marcy Tilton over the Christmas break. When I first saw it, I sent Marcy's team an email asking for more information—I had a question about the color—but I didn't actually order it. Then my friend, Patti F from Chicago, emailed me that she had just ordered a gorgeous fabric from Marcy and she sent me a pic.

It was the same fabric!

Marcy often doesn't carry large amounts of a fabric, so I quickly put in an order. Once her team returned from the holidays, they informed me that they only had 1.5 yards of the brocade left and did I want it. I said yes and figured I'd find a way to use it.

When Patti received the five yards that she had ordered, she decided that she didn't want to use it for the project that she originally had in mind. She offered to sell me 1.5 yards.

Thanks to her kindness, I was able to make the Minoru that I originally envisioned.

THANKS SO MUCH, PATTI!

I made my first Minoru over the holidays. That coat quickly became a wardrobe staple. I LOVE it! I knew I wanted to make it again for my Paris wardrobe, when Margy pointed out that gorgeous brocade.

I actually started this project at a sewing retreat last March, but I couldn't finish it. I ordered a custom zipper that didn't arrive in time, I needed decent shoulder pads (the shoulder pads available at Hart's were nasty foam pads by Dritz), and I didn't have the right lining fabric. I finished the shell of the coat and moved on to other things.

The project languished for awhile until I returned to it a couple weeks ago. The zipper arrived (though I didn't notice at first that it wasn't the double-ended zipper that I thought I had ordered), I bought some nice shoulder pads from Britex, and a gorgeous silk charmeuse lining from Emma One Sock.

Sewing in the sleeve lining

In addition to the changes I made for the first coat, I made a few additional changes for this version:

  • The brocade wrinkles badly, so I underlined the entire jacket with Pam Erny's ProSHEER Elegance LIGHT Fusible Interfacing. Her interfacings are fabulous, but this fabric was a bit resistant and wanted to peel away, so I also sewed around the raw edges of each pattern piece.
  • Shortened the sleeves by 1" and drafted a sleeve hem facing.
  • Omitted the hood.
  • Stiffened the collar stand with rows of machine quilting.
  • The jacket, as designed, gathers into the collar. I took a note from Margy and replaced the gathers with darts.
  • In addition to the welt pockets on the coat, I made two internal patch pockets on the lining—it's perfect for stashing travel documents, cash, or credit cards!
  • This fabric also ravels like crazy. I could have serged around the raw edges, but I didn't. I just dealt with it.

I'm mostly happy with this coat. I wish I had done a bit more shaping at the side seams but I'm not sure I feel strongly enough that I want to open up the lining to address that. I love the color. Look for more teal, blue, and black coming from my sewing room!


Accessories

Since I know someone will ask, so...

I bought this "button" necklace at Style 16 from Judith Content. Judith is a textile artist and she also sells these wonderful button necklaces and earrings. She starts with white plastic buttons and she stencils and paints them. She mixes them with fibers and creates delightful jewelry. In fact, I found a Pinterest board that someone created of her work. You can also follow her on Instagram.

I love Fly London footwear and these are the Fly London Simi boots in Petrol. A cool feature of these boots is that they have four functioning zippers - one on the inside and outside of each boot.


Google I/O

Last week was Google I/O, the conference for developers who use Google services and APIs. For the first time it was held at the Shoreline Amphitheater in Mountain View. I had a deliverable for this event. As part of that effort, I also worked two shifts during the show.

This meant I was compelled to wear a tee shirt.

This is sartorial hell for me. I love wearing tee shirts, for sleeping in.

I feel frumpy in a boxy tee shirt. In order to get a tee that fits my uber bust, I take an XL... in MEN'S. (The women's sizes are so small...) The sleeves end at my bust line, emphasizing my uber-ness. The crew neck doesn't flatter me. It's super long, which is great in a sleep shirt, but adds to the "tent-like" effect.

Yes, I could do some tailoring, but I don't see the point for a shirt I will wear in public exactly once. I mitigated the frumptastic effect with some fun earrings and shoes, purchased from Simply Bella. (You have to call as these aren't listed on her site, but they come in at least five colors.)

One of my favorite displays at the show is the new self driving car.

It's so CUTE! I want one.

I wonder what the pedals are for...

They invited graffiti on this giant Android

We've had a rainy spring, at least for us. I have never seen a mushroom like this before—I took this pic near my office in Mountain View.

Do you know what kind of mushroom this is?


CBS Sunday Morning

I know I've mentioned before that one of my favorite TV programs is CBS Sunday Morning. Once a year they have an episode dedicated to design-—this is my favorite. Today's design episode had a piece on Dressing Down: the Rise of Athleisure, which you can watch at that link.

They also had a wonderful piece on the home of Christian Dior in the south of France, which has recently been re-opened: The House of Dior.

But I think my favorite story was about British architect, Thomas Heatherwick. Wow his work is STUNNING. I particularly love the "garden bridge" he has planned for over the Thames, which reminds me of the High Line in NYC. (I've never seen the High Line in person, but I hope to remedy that this summer.)

When I was reading up about his amazing work, I saw that he has designed a new campus in Mountain View for Google. Somehow I missed that announcement last year. Sheesh, it looks unreal. I wonder if this will happen in my lifetime...


I have more projects in various stages of completion. My daughter's graduation is in a couple of weeks and it may be hot, so I need to address that wardrobe need.

Have a great week!

73 comments:

  1. I love the teal! Great job on the coat--I love the boots., I remember the first time I saw the tiny self-driving car on the streets. I was walking through Mountain view at dusk and I thought I was seeing and hearing things--I think that they beep or chirp while they are moving. Thank you for the recommendation for the news stories.

    Rose in SV

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    1. Thanks, Rose! I haven't seen this new style of car on the streets yet - only the old style. It's so darned cute!!

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    2. I agree--they are very cute! For some reason, they remind me of riding bikes and ice cream in the summer. :)

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  2. What a fabulous coat. It should be perfect for watching July 4 fireworks at home--LOL. That is one weird mushroom. Secret Google project?

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  3. Wonderful fabric choice. Love the jacket and styling!

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  4. Your jacket is a show stopper. Wow!

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  5. Love those colours! I feel your pain about the company work T-shirt, I have avoided it so far, but I can't hold out much longer.

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    1. Thanks, Janet! High five on the corporate tee. ;)

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  6. Beautiful coat. I love the colors - 'my' color!
    Marcia

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    1. Thanks, Marcia! I'm loving the teal these days. :D

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  7. You-Paris-TEAL! Your travels in this coat will be awesome. Wish I could be there with you and Margy! Only know you both through your blogs. Thank you for more inspiration.

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    1. Thanks, Margene! I can't believe it will be my first time to Paris! (Other than the airport..)

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    2. You'll have a fabulous time...Paris is like no where else. I adore that jacket. I think I'm actually inspired to make one, but maybe in a water resistant fabric. But the colors and design in that fabric are so glorious, maybe I want a brocade! ~Martina

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    3. Thanks, Martina! Yes, this fabric is not water resistant, but I am also planning to make a raincoat layer. I hope I have time to finish everything!

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  8. You and Margy will be turning heads in Paris, that is one awesome coat and outfit. If only there was some way to make shoes from that edgy mushroom, the colour is so vivid and such interesting textures.

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    1. Thanks, Sandra! Yes, that mushroom would make a great pair of shoes! At least the color and texture. :)

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  9. Beautiful teal jacket. Is it waterproof??? Look forward to seeing more outfits for Paris.

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    1. Thanks, Judy! No, this fabric is not water proof. I plan to also take a lightweight raincoat layer.

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  10. Your sewing, is, as always, superb... the jacket looks much more appealing to me without the hood, and with darts instead of gathers...

    While I don't know enough to identify the mushroom precisely, I am pretty sure it is in the Boletes family, since those mushrooms have pores on the bottom surface instead of having gills like most mushrooms

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    1. Interesting, Alison! I looked up Boletas and it seems they are edible. I would never ever eat a wild mushroom, of course, but I was curious. :) And thanks!

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    2. My understanding is that some but not all Boletas mushrooms are edible, but that edible does not necessarily mean tasty (though some, like porcini, are) but rather "not deadly". I have eaten wild mushrooms on a few occasions, but only those gathered by knowledgeable people... morels, chantrelles, masutake (but then, I live in the PNW where foraging for mushrooms is not uncommon0

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  11. A beautiful Minoru, yet another demonstration of just how versatile that pattern is. Your fabric is beautiful - and with the colours in there it will be a great cornerstone of your travel wardrobe.

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    1. Thanks, Material Lady! Yes, the goal (as learned from Margy) is to make a jacket that embodies all of the colors I want to wear. I'm learning much from Margy. :)

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  12. Just beautiful. I am in love with teal myself and the boots are fab. I love Sunday Morning too ,and can't wait to see that show when I get home.

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    1. Thanks, Mary Glenn! The design episode is the best!!

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  13. What a great coincidence that Patti could shift some yardage your way. It was certainly worth the wait! Fabulous!!!

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    1. Yes, Robin! I was so grateful to Patti! I am making a second Paris coat, but the fabric doesn't embody *all* of the colors I wanted. It's a hard combo to find in a print that I love. Thanks!

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  14. Beautiful work on your Minoru! Love the back neck and collar. And perfectly matching accessories - excellent!

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    1. Thanks so much, Vicki! You know, I appreciate that you always comment on my posts! :)

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  15. For some reason, I thought you were going to paris this spring. Have fun when you do go. Happy daughter's graduation. My son is also graduating as a pharmacist this next month.

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    1. Hey, Kathy, no, this spring was far too busy with other commitments and work deadlines. Marcy and Katherine are in Paris right now and have been posting pics of their travels and I can hardly wait to go!!!

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  16. I live the quilting on the collar and the darts at the back neckline of the jacket! This is an amazing piece as the groundwork for the Paris collection! Looking forward to seeing more of the Paris pieces.

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    1. Thanks so much, Carolyn! At the rate I'm sewing these days, I hope I have time to finish them!

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  17. I have to say that I like this version with the darts replacing the gathers better. It's a beautiful detail. It's a great color on you and it's very flattering. I never add inside pockets like this but it's so perfect for traveling. It will be nice for you when you have to show your ticket, passport etc more than once to have a good secure place to put them. Easier than you handbag. I will definitely have to remember this!
    Perfect beginning for your Paris wardrobe.

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    1. Thanks, Nancy! Yes, I have one inside pocket on my green MInoru and I love having it there!

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  18. Fabulous jacket, I love the colour on you too - those shoes.... absolutely brilliant.

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  19. That Minoru is fantastic. I love it when a print is used as a wardrobe neutral - if that makes sense. the color is perfect on you. Also I have to say - perhaps vanity but if I ever had to wear a company t-shirt at an event and I had time prior I would always alter - such as take off the neckband, cut down, shorten and then use the remaining to re-do the neckline :)

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    1. Thanks, Beth! No... I really don't want to limit the tee's use as a sleep shirt. ;) If I had to wear a tee in public for more than a day, I might do just that.

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  20. I love your chosen colorway, and beautiful fabric for your minoru. As always lovely design and stitching, and I'm filing away for future ref.the stitching detail for stiffening the collar. :) I admit to declining to participate in activities that involve wearing a "T-shirt"..totally agree with you.

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    1. Thanks, Karla! Yeah, but I do like to sleep in them! :)

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  21. According to my googling, the mushroom is not only edible but 'highly prized' https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boletus_edulis#/media/File:Boletus_rex-veris_42967.jpg

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    1. Well, shoot. I'd be too nervous to test that theory, though. ;)

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  22. Magnificent Minoru, Shams! That fabric is stunning and makes a great "core" piece! You did good!

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    1. Thanks, Margy! We'll be two Minoru peas in a pod. ;)

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  23. Incredible! Every garment gets better and better. You have the most wonderful eye for color, pattern and garment choices. The only thing I see now is that Google should totally be asking you to design those tshirts!

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    1. Thanks, Kathleen! Actually, I have no skills in graphic design. :)

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  24. Great blog today, thanks. Love your comment about feeling frumpy, that's my number one thing to try and avoid as I get older. I saw the design show and also thought Heatherwick was amazing.

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    1. Thanks, Kate! Yeah, it was amazing how I definitely felt frumpy all day. It really does a number on one's mind. If I had to do it for a longer period of time, I would alter the tee, but it would still not be my favorite look. :)

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  25. What a wonderful jacket - pattern and finished result. The color is superb on you, as is your accessorizing. Great job, but then you are always beautifully put together. We have very different body types so I cannot wear a lot of what you make but I could wear that jacket (although I would prefer a collar that did not zip all the way up, since my neck seems to be disappearing as I age). Thank you so much for sharing this. I have added the patter to my wish list. I am in complete agreement with you about standard crew neck tees, best for sleeping if I could stand the height of the neckline. Great job!

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    1. Thanks so much, Nancy! If you know what shapes look good on you, you are one step ahead of the game! As I age, I find that I prefer a collar as it camouflages an aging neck and frames the face. But there is no "one rule" that works for everyone! (And it's why I made my duster WITH a collar! :) )

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  26. Hello from Western Australia :) You look very stylish in this coat.
    I just love your work - sewing, style, writing, humor... love it all. You are an inspiration.

    The modification from gathering to darts is great, and the collar stitching looks marvellous.
    Thanks and regards, Valerie
    PS did you hand in stitch the entire lining?

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    1. Thanks so much, Zeddyboo! And welcome. :) Yes, I did sew the entire lining by hand. I like a hand-sewn lining.

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  27. The coat is lovely . Thank you for showing the changes you made to the design.

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  28. Gorgeous Minoru! I am going to borrow the idea for the pleats instead of gathers. Love it.

    I love the self driving car, it looks even smaller than my SmartCar! So cute.

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    1. Thanks, Elle! Yes, that car is so tiny and so cute. I hope these are widely available and affordable when my current behemoth wears out!

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  29. Beautiful jacket, the color is stunning on you and your boots are perfect. You'll have a wonderful time in Paris with the Tilton's. I went with Marcy many years ago and on that trip we had Linda Lee of The Sewing Workshop, Lois and Diane Ericson, and Kenneth King. It was my first time in Paris and my favorite place ever since.

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    1. Wow, what an amazing trip, Leslie! And thanks!

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  30. WOW...love your jacket....also sewing for a river cruise....black white and some turquoise splashes.....but the coat will be perfect for Paris and the Tilton girls!

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    1. Thanks, Laura! A river cruise sounds like a wonderful way to travel!

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  31. Late to this post, but wanted to say how much I loved it. That jacket will be perfect for Paris and such a great cornerstone piece for your wardrobe. Beautiful! I just looked at the pattern and it's out of print now. Just download-able. I may just have to do that. Just bought a ripcord lined with thin fleece for a raincoat at Rose City Textiles in Seattle and this would be perfect I think. Hope I can make it unlined.
    If you haven't been to RCT you need to go next time your'e up there, it's incredible!

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    1. Thanks, Gayle! It's funny that you mention Rose City Textiles! Last time I went to Portland (it's not in Seattle), I forgot to visit RCT, but a blog reader reminded me to check it out. I go back to Portland in a couple of weeks and I plan to visit then. Thanks for goading me! :)

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  32. Your fabric is beautiful! I like how you stiffened the collar using machine quilting. Nicely done!

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  33. From Creative Hormone Rush: What a lovely jacket! I love that the fabric's multi-hued tapestry style pattern obscures the otherwise giant blobs and creates such a visual feast. Plus your pattern placement is spectacular, as always. Your creations never cease to amaze and inspire.

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  34. Beautiful coat! Google recently announced they will have a self driving car development center in Novi, MÌ, a Detroit suburb. I'll keep an eye out for those cute cars here in the Motor City!

    http://www.freep.com/story/money/cars/2016/05/25/google-open-self-driving-car-testing-center-novi/84906436/

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