Sunday, April 13, 2014

Colorblocked Hoodie - Vogue 8951

Most of my recent makes have beens skirts, so I decided that it was time to make a non-skirt.

Variety is the spice of life, and all.

This pattern is a fairly recent Vogue - I think it came out in the early spring batch of patterns. It is for a darted split-neck pullover and includes 3 neckline variations: hoodie, collared, and plain. There is an optional kangaroo pocket, side seam hem slits, and the back is longer than the front.

I love this novelty knit - it is a double knit with a lot of drape. One side is red, with a lot of texture, and the other side is solid black. It's a great fabric, from Emma One Sock, many months ago.

The draft of this pattern is a bit unusual for Vogue. The envelope says that it is close fitting and it is! Despite the dart, I had to add a substantial FBA. The pattern features a very high, close-fitting armhole and the sleeve is slim through the bicep. Also, the shoulder is narrower than normal - I had to remove much less than I usually do for Vogue.

I am not usually a fan of hoods, but I liked how it looked as a collar, so I decided to use the hood version. However, I did not want a heavy hood pulling at my neck, so I chose not to line the hood, as the pattern recommends.

My alterations and modifications were:

  • A substantial FBA, and I had to lower the dart by almost 3 inches.
  • The collar is supposed to be lined, but I did not want a "heavy" hood. This fabric is a double-knit, so I used a single layer of fabric and flat felled the hood's CB seam. I omitted the drawstring in the hood. This means that the reverse side of the fabric, which is solid black, shows.
  • I used a size Medium, tapered down to a XS at the hip.
  • I tapered in slightly at the waist - about 1/4" for a total of 1".
  • This top is designed with a mullet hem - so that the back is longer than the front. I shortened the back so that it is the same length as the front.
  • The armhole is high and the sleeve slim. After measuring the pattern and my arm, I left the pattern as-is, because I am using a forgiving knit and I knew it would work.
  • I used a contrasting black wool double knit for the sleeves.
  • I narrowed the shoulder by 5/8". This is *much* less than I usually remove for a Vogue pattern - so it has a narrower shoulder than usual.

You might wonder why I used a contrast fabric for the sleeves. It was for two reasons. First, I knew that the inside of the hood would be exposing solid black, and black sleeves would be a nice repetition of the color. But I also really wanted to save some of this fabric to make another of those short skirts that I love to wear to work over leggings or tights.

It goes to show that I can't completely avoid another skirt. ;)

I love this top! I definitely can see this becoming one of my TNT patterns.


  1. Didn't even recognize it as THAT pattern! So cute with the contrast!!

  2. I love this hoodie! Love your color choice, fabric, everything about it! I might just make one for myself!

  3. Nice, very nice. Had to laugh when I saw your post as I am making a similar hooded tunic. Was debating a kangaroo pocket . Your garment clinched it for me.

  4. So cute on you! I love the fabric combination. Good call on the black sleeves, as they really do tie into the hood.
    I have this pattern and was going to make it soon, but since it's close fitting I'm now a bit hesitant. Good to know that I'll probably have to add some sleeve width in addition to my usual adjustments.
    This fabric will make a great skirt!

  5. very cute - love the color-blocking!

  6. Shoes - who's? Want! Oh - cute top too.

    1. These are Arche shoes, ReAnn. Thanks!

  7. I never even noticed this certainly have "the eye"! Great use of contrast...and I LOVE the shoes!

  8. Yep, you are definitely going to get loads of wear from this one. Adorbs!!

  9. Classy hoodie. You and Margy are so creative working with red, blacks and whites.

  10. Well I absolutely adore hoodies, so I reckon this is gorgeous!

  11. Love the novelty knit and why did I not see this on EOS??? I love the red shoes!

  12. I'm also a fan of hoodies and your version is great! The red will make a lovely skirt too.

  13. Very nice hoodie. Love the blend of fabrics. I looked right past that pattern. A skirt will be great out of that fabric. Love the shoes.

  14. I love this rendition of the pattern. You are stylin' :-)

  15. Leave it to you to make a hoodie look cool!

  16. Very nice! Like the necklace too!

  17. Great color blocking on this one....and those shoes.....cheerful from top to toes.

  18. That hoodie is fantastic... and the shoes set the entire outfit off great. You did great job as usual, my dear lady. What's next on the agenda?

  19. That looks really nice on you. I really am loving all the shoes you are pairing with these outfits. Can you give a little shoe advice to those of us that are always searching for cute comfy shoes? I am getting to the point of wanting a pair for every outfit. I figure if they have to be comfy they may as well be cute and expensive. You seem to have it together with the wearable outfits and shoes.

  20. Love the hoodie. Now I want one. ;)