Saturday, March 9, 2013

CB Spiral Top

I bought a pattern recently based on a post by Sew Ruth. The pattern, by Center for Pattern Design, and called the CB Spiral Blouse, is based on a design by Balenciaga. It is cut on the bias and consists of a single pattern piece. This sort of design really appeals to me so I ordered it right away.

The pattern comes in a size Medium which, according to the instructions, accommodates a bust size of 36-39". Because the pattern is cut on the bias, and different fabrics behave very differently on the bias, it's hard to predict how each fabric is going to hang or how the final top may fit. You can't just measure the flat pattern with confidence that it will just work. Also, because the pattern has no shoulder or side seams, you have less leeway to fudge the final garment.

Therefore, this is a pattern you really must test out. For my test garment, I used a fabric that a friend de-stashed - it's a loosely woven, textured cotton in a sage green color that has a nice drape. It has a subtle stripe. The pewter buttons are from my stash.

Alterations and Modifications:

  • The pattern has two lines where you can add or remove width to size up or down. I added 1.5" along each line, for a total of 6" of additional width.
  • The top is designed to be shorter in front and longer in back. But I felt that it was too short it front, so I added 1.5" at CF, merging it to the existing hem near the side seam.
  • I didn't like the fullness at the hem under the bust, so I took two generous tucks which are partially stitched down.
  • The pattern is designed to be a 3/4 length sleeve which is sewn on a spiral. I cut the sleeves to be as long as possible, given the width of my fabric. When I tried on the top, I decided I really liked the uneven edge, so I preserved that shape when I hemmed the sleeves.


I really like this top and plan to make it again. It would be fun to change up the neckline. I would like to achieve a non-ripply seam in the back, but am otherwise liking it very much.


On another topic. I have been reamed, for some time now, with spam comments. Most are caught by the blogger software and end up in a spam box, but I still have to delete each one manually. A few land in the moderated page, and I also have to delete each one manually. A few slip through. I am considering disallowing anonymous comments on my blog, as the lion's share come in anonymously. I kind of hate to do that, though, so tell me what you think.

I hope you are having a lovely weekend!

More Pics

The back is designed to drape at the hemline. There are no side seams or shoulder seams.
The primary seam is a bias seam that runs diagonal on the back. Though I did not force this seam, and I pressed it well, it does pucker a bit. I'm not crazy about that effect an am not sure how I can improve it on the next one.