Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Black Fitted Coat - Sandra Betzina Vogue 1318

I really have a thing for coats and jackets, if you haven't noticed. I have plans for sewing more coats and jackets, so don't be surprised. I wish I had a decent sized coat closet!

This pattern is a Sandra Betzina vest. I had this very interesting textured fabric, a black brocade, that I wanted to use. Here are the interesting features of the pattern and my modifications:

  • It's a long vest. I couldn't see getting much wear out of a long vest, especially not one made from this brocade, so I added sleeves. It's very easy to add sleeves - just choose another pattern that has the sleeve you want. Overlay the armscye from that pattern onto your desired pattern. Then use the sleeve from that same pattern. I used the sleeve from the Kwik Sew moto jacket that I recently made. This is a one-piece, darted sleeve (at the elbow).
  • Since I added sleeves, I also added a sleeve lining.
  • Before adding the sleeve, I narrowed the shoulders by about 5/8".
  • I made view B, but I omitted the in-seam contrast piping.
  • The vest pattern comes with patterns for two detachable collars. One is a fairly straightforward collar. The other is more 3-dimensional with sewn tucks. I loved this collar and made this version. To be honest, I might have preferred to just sew the collar to the coat in the normal manner, as I doubt I'll plan to remove it, but I did make it to be detachable.
  • Upper collar with sewn tucks

    Detachable collar
  • This is a princess seam design, which is great for an FBA. The pattern is fairly fitted. I used a size C and added a (conventional) 1" princess seam FBA because I needed the width, as well as the length.
  • For a size C, the pattern tissue says that the finished size at the waist is 48". I do not think this is correct. I think it's less than that.
  • The model in the photo on the pattern envelope must be 6-feet tall. Notice that the vest hits her at her mid thigh. Mine is knee-length and I am 5'5".
  • The vest is loosely fitted through the hips.
  • There are in-seam pockets in the side front. These are quite deep.
  • Deep pockets
  • The vest closes with buttons. The pattern calls for 4 buttons, but I found that 5 worked better. The buttonholes are bound buttonholes. I hadn't made bound buttonholes in almost 30 years! (I think it's been 28 years...)
  • Buttons and Bound Buttonholes

Supplies and Notions:

  • The primary fabric is a highly textured black brocade purchased at Fabrix. The texture has a leaf design.
  • The lining is a black synthetic fabric with large white polka dots, also from Fabrix. It is very soft.
  • Polka dots!
  • The closure consists of 5 gorgeous, 1" Italian buttons from Britex. (I am getting very spoiled by the button selection at Britex.)
  • There are also 5 small clear buttons use to attach the collar to the coat. These are from Fabrix.
  • The pockets are lined with remnants of solid black Bemberg by Ambiance.
  • Scraps of black silk organza were used to make the 5 bound buttonholes.
  • The neckline was reinforced with cotton twill tape.

I really like this black coat. I can see wearing it to an event over a simple top and skinny pants. I have wanted a black coat for a long time, so I think this will be a useful addition to my wardrobe.

Buttoned up